hath

when breeding i use the deep litter method ie when the first egg is laid the cage is not cleaned till the chicks are hatched and the nest box needs its first change my flights are cleaned twice a week

forgot to say extend the light to 10 to 12 hours, i start to get mine in condition to breed around the middle to the end of november

to bring them into condition i extend the amount of light in my birdroom and turn the heating on so that it is between 10 and 15 degrees ensre water and seed is always available and it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to bring them into condition

some of my hens cere are pale blue when out of condition

I dont think they should bleed when you clip their wings cuz its kinda like when we cut our hair

the ink from newspaper can harm your birds over a length of time

the hen should be able to feed the chicks on her own no problem,i have had a **** die like this this year and the hen managed fine i personally wouldnt put food in the nest box apart from the millet which i introduce when the chicks are aprox 3 weeks old hope you dont mind me answering this but if you can get it the challenge breeding exhibition budgerigars by gerald s binks in my opinion is a must dont be put of by the title it is not just for show people but for pet owners who want to breed these little gems it covers everything

i dont think there is a set size for nest boxs mine are 5inches square and 12 inches deep with 3 inches of wood shavings in the bottom

all my breeding cages are made from plywood and painted white with a gloss paint (ensure it is lead free) with a wire front

in one of my mags there is a company who insure birds but i think it is for a number of aviary birds i think not one i will hunt out their e-mail address as they do a free info pack

the book i have states this pairing over their breeding life would give 50 cob,cob/gywg, 50gry,gy/gywg as long as not split

just replied to this in How often can I go into the box

sometimes you get a bird that are egg eaters and i dont think there is any thing you can do about this,sometimes if the hen refuses to come out of the nest box to breed the **** bird attempts to mate with her in the box and the egg gets smashed once smashed it is chewed to dust so it looks like it was eaten it is normally the **** bird that does this

you dont have to show the ring if its in the any age class but if you bred from your birds and wanted to show in young bird classes just showing the ring would not do and they would refuse your entry ill find out where to get the rings from and post it later as i cant find it at the moment

hi if this is the hens first round then she may take a while to relise what she has to do,i would leave her well alone so hopefully she will get the idea of what to do,give her about ten days to see if she is siting better then candle the eggs to see if they are fertile if not remove and allow her to try again

i would let him take his chances i know this sounds hard but if he is pining and not eating he wont last i believe he will find his own niche it could no will be hard for him but in the long run better

mine is on a timer it comes on first thing in the morning for two hours thn every two hours for one hour till the lights go of and what a differance

no i had to go somewhere else as for quiet its louder than expectedbut the pulling power of the fan is brilliant

well after nearly 7 months and 4 companys later i finally have my filter and it only cost ?99 and all i can say is that it is brilliant and must recommend it to anybody it has cut the dust down by 80%

hard boiled egg mashed with grated carrot i also give a shop bought egg food you could try bread and milk with a couple of digestive biscuits crumbled and mixed in

yes i remove the chicks completly it is sad you have lost one and i dont want to sound hard or not caring but it is something you have to get not used to but prepared for if you want to continue to breed these birds

leave him why do you want him out the longer he stays in the stronger he will be

DEFINITION OF THE WORD "SPLIT." When we say that a bird is "split" a certain colour or colours, we mean that it itself possesses the hidden power, when suitably mated, of producing a certain percentage of young of that colour over a fair number of matings. The bird itself possesses the colour factor corresponding to the "split" colour, and it may or may not be necessary for the bird to which it is mated to possess that factor also. It should be noted that all green birds which are "split white" (the word green is here used comprehensively to cover all green birds from olives to greywing light greens, etc.), can, when suitably mated, produce blues, yellows, and whites. For this reason the green/white bird is named by some people green/blue, yellow-white. The word "blue" coming after olive green or dark green must be taken to cover all the blue series, i.e. skyblue, cobalt, and mauve. Olive green/blues can only produce cobalts and mauves. hope this helps

if the birds were split blue then you can get albino

it is very unnerving the first time you ring a bird and you should always have someone show you the first time but i have never seen a bird in discomfort with a ring on its leg