Daz

Good point Karen, I have a hen that has laid her 2nd clutch. The previous clutch would not leave the nest box... at 42 days. I picked the two oldest, both 42 days old, out of the nest box and put them in the nursery. The lat chick is 42 days tomorrow and is still in the nest box. I keep taking them out and puting them in the breeding cage but they go straight back. The 1st egg is due to hatch today. I candled the eggs last night and think most of them have been adled due to the "traffic" This has occured in a normal breeding box that is 165mm (61/2 inched) deep. So I suppose it is up to the chicks. I actually take the chicks out of the box at 34 days anyway. So it shouldn't be a problem (I Hope :fear )

...... okay guys what colour is an Opaline Spangle Lutino????? I'll give you a hint. A cinnamon Lutino (Lacewing) is Yellow with light brown markings on its wings. With red eyes. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a26/darrylw/Budgie030.jpg

Hi and Welcome to the forums. Please enjoy.

Thanks Hath I made the box from memory and couldn't remember if the perch went through. I'll remove it.

Hi Paul The boxes are 250mm high (10 inches) 200mm width (8 inches) and 150mm depth (6 inches) They are hard to get over here too Bubbles thats why I make them. Plus it's also a hobbie of mine

While at the auction on Sunday, they were selling Breeding equipment, one of which was nest boxes. I hadn't seen this type before and was interested. A couple of breeders from the club told me that the birds love them and breed well in them. I inquired as to the demenision (guessed mostly) and decided to make one. To night I finished the second one. The deep box keeps the chicks inside longer and healthier. It takes longer for them to be able to get to the inside perch and get out. I'll be trying it in the last part of this season to see how it goes. I'll let you know what happenes.

Here's a picture of the Nest box. I have a post in Cages

I never give my birds grit or sand. I now of top breeders that also have stopped giving grit and sand. There is one breeder in England that over the last twenty years has never given grit or sand and has never had and problems due to it.

Just happened that way.... My Plan was to buy normals at the last Auction but I came out with a Spangle and another opaline. I think I'll be keeping the Normal Hens and culling the Split Cocks and Opaline Hens in the next generation. I also have a few Cinnamons.

Here is my recepie for a protien mix using Budgie Crumble Mix it up 1 part Oats soaked over night. 1 part egg and biscuit 1 part crumble 2 part Starter Serve in individual dishes to breeding pairs and chicks. End result - healthy chicks. Whats left over serve to Flight.

I came accross a new Nest Box that the top breeders are raving about. It is deeper so that the chicks stay longer in the nest box. I made one up last night to try and will try to bring some to the Show to sell for the club. I'll get a photo for you to let you know they look like.. They are good for Breeding cages or Open Breeding (colony) My Birds to Date.

Nerwen check out the Lions Hall at the Pine Rivers Show 4, 5, & 6 August. I will be maning the stand from 11:00am to 5:00pm on the 5th. There might be some Show Birds for sale.

I can't argue with you terri I don't beleive in them either as a full diet.. I use a crumble mix but included them as a low percentage of my birds' diet and I do mean low. My Birds are fed on High quality Seed mix with low fat content as a base diet, Daily fresh vegetables and a High protein. They are also given regular minerals, Calcium and Iodine. If I am going to spend high money on my birds they don't get rubbish. Thanks for the post Terri, I think it's great. These are thing people should know.

No I don't like the idea of a double factor Grey. I wont be pairing the two up. Yes they are a bit like a violet. Once in your flock they can cause some fun with the colours. :ausb: Got your message and love the name... Apollo it is. I got them from a member last night at the meeting. I have some chicks in the nursary. Skyblue greywings from Karen's Dominent Pied. It turns out that my first Cobalt, Bluey, is split to greywing. I have males and females. I'll put a cuppa on if you want to see them.

I was thinking of you when I read this Hath. :ausb:

Interesting Ash is a Cinnamon Grey (sf) The new hen is an Opaline Grey (sf) Offspring would be Males Greys (sf), Greens and Greys (df) all split to Cinnamon and Opaline Females Cinnamon Green, Cinnamon Grey (sf) and Cinnamon Grey (df) I need to look up Grey Double Factor as I haven't seen one before. :ausb:

Well I have been busy. I ended up with Two more birds... Flock getting bigger. Skyblue Cock Light Green Opaline Hen Here is the Opaline Grey Hen Sorry about the bad Photo still haven't gotten a better shot.

You have me thinking... I am at work so i'll have to have a good look when I get home. I picked him because of the stance, shoulders and mask. (White fethering below the beak) He also is a bit of a show and likes to blow (Puff up his head feathers). He hasn't got a name... any ideas? I am pairing him to the other new bird which is a Grey Opaline. She is a tall bird with very good mask and spots. To Hath.. Coffee pot and tea pot. Sure, I'll try to get another shot this afternoon, i'll see how I go. He was a good price $70.00au. Thanks Hath I have a chance to get some spangle hens off a club member so might try next season for a double factor spangle.

A show breeder looks at the birds and notes their strengths and weaknesses. He tries to pair the birds to give a stronger more robust bird that has the features that are required on the show bench. I don't believe that the pairing of the birds causes weaknesses in health with the young but it can cause infertility. Weakness in the young can be caused by over breeding of a pair. Say the third or forth clutch, the hen is exhausted and her body can't give what is needed to form a good egg to begin with. That is the main cause for weak offspring (Runts) How can a breeder determine that there aren't any hidden faults/illnesses before selecting a related pair? Good question Bea. With new birds (out crosses) you can't this is why we first should quarrentine them. Then it is the same as genetics. Untill the bird is breed a few times, you don't realy know what that bird is split from. Same as illness. There could be a genetic illness that can be past on to the young. Many of the birds we all have have been breed from Breeders that line breed and the ones that don't measure up to the standard gets sold to pet shops where they are bought as adorible pets

Sorry Karen the Flash has lighted and given the colour on the wings. He is a Cobalt Spangle. A Darman Bird.

Hi all. As some of you would know I went to an auction today. I came home with two birds. Unfortunately I couldn't stay for the whole auction. New Bird. Guess the Sex & genetic? I also came home with another one but the photos isn't the best. I'll have to get a better shot.

I, like hath have no problems with line breeding, but don't do this at the moment as I am building a stock base and buying in outcrosses. But would probibly not breed brother sister, father daughter, mother son.

Budgerigars are programmed not to recognise there young. (or so we are told) and this in the wild is a good feature to have. Australia is not a kind habitat for Budgerigars and many die each year so this feature helps the species to survive. Now I am not saying it is good or bad just the way it is in the wild.

I would like to thank those that have commented to this topic. It can be a volitile issue and those that have commented have put their views forward in a positive way. Thank you.

You have a light green male budgerigar.