melbournebudgies

Yeah, I love him cause he's scruffy He is stuntd because of his history unfortunatey but he actually comes out of a show type clutch and he is a gorgeous colour so I'm hoping he will manage to breed for me in the future. He might struggle with his bad foot but we'll see He was attacked by a hen in the nest and his breeder used antiseptic cream on him which caked his feathers

If only one parent is yellow face you should only get yellow face babies though

Remember this little guy? Well he's half way through his moult and starting to look vaguely normal again. His little foot and the injuries to his belly skin will never heal which is why his feathers look strange on his stomach. He has moulted from the head down so his bottom half is still brown and his top half is white

How about this one - the golden wings award

What are the parents? As far as I'm aware YF is dominant so you should see it in all your chicks. It could be very pale :shrug: I'm sure someone who's NOT confused will answer soon

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q401/bu...TAYLIA018-1.jpg He is a yellow face blue

Are the yellow ones' markings green or are they kind of mixed green and light blue? I think I can see some blue around the edges which would actually making it a yellow face blue and that would change your results.

I have eggs due to hatch any day now but they would be blue spangles like Ernie, cobalts and violets I normally get from this pair . I won't have any greens for a little while as I have only just started putting my other pairs together. I hand tame all my babies

It sounds like a neurological problem to me if he's always done it. Chances are there may be not alot you can do other than make his cage easy for him to navigate.

I agree with SW. Plus that's ALOT of money to spend on a king parrot to start with, let alone one with issues. When you get back give Coco a try before you set your heart on a big bird.

If he was using the grill setting the oven door would have been open

I think this is the one that Liv had major dramas with before though. It just wouldn't settle at all, completely freaked out.

Do you havea single breeding cabinet that you can take the front off? I would put it in the aviary with the front off for a few weeks and put their seed in there. Then put the front back on with the door wired open and the seed still in there. Once you can see that she is happily going in there to feed try her in the cabinet again

You need to borrow Coco for a week and see if you can handle having a big bird. That way you will know what you are gettbng yourself into, I can lend you a cage and all for him

I was planning on having a warm light on each breeding cage, do you think that would make a difference?

Hadn't thought of that, so maybe the bottom one is best used for birds which aren't to be bred straight away, while I'm putting condition on them, etc.

Just wondering is there any reason for lifting cages off the ground other than keeping mice/rats out? I'm going to put my breeding cages in a fully rodent proof enclosure so do I still need to lift them up? The bottom cages is about 2 inches off the ground.

I have always felt the shape of an akitas face was not that dissimiliar to the shape of a dingoes though, especially at the fat puppy stage.

They just scream dingo don't they! What's the plan for them?

They must have been tricking all the Science students at La Trobe :bluebudgie:

AV he's my dream! Crested AND a spangle :bluebudgie: He is tufted (a variation on a proper crest) How big is he?

There is another auction site called Oztion, and the trading post. If you were in Melbourne I have one here I'm selling :bluebudgie:

Piccieeeeeeesssss, NOOOOWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!

I heard a story a while ago about a pet rabbit that was killed by lovebirds. It might not happen tonight but as soon as they decide that aviary is their territory you will start to lose other birds!