Daz

... lutino

Karen, Greg can post your rings to you if you want. Just let me know.

Give it a good scrub and then use F10sc. You should be able to get it at good Pet stores or Vets.

Here is a post I did regarding my personal views on getting into Show Budgies

Very Nice. If Charlie has a WRBS ring on, I might be able to find out who the breeder is.

No a problem.. We all are still learning.

Welcome to the forum Very nice stance, strong back and good lines. Nice height above the perch. Nice death of mask with nice spots. nice width across the cere and a hit of directional feathering. To me a cobalt or dark Skyblue. Can't comment on posture as she is leaning forward. Shallow in mask but good width mask. Being a Spangle she has the appearance of the ghost spots appearing and may develop well. Width of Cere is very good. Bad point is the flecking on the crown. But this may not be produced in the offspring. Spangle Opaline Grey > Pairing the Cobalt to the the Grey will give you some very nice chicks. You will find a high percentage of Greys against blue. The cocks will all be split Opaline unless the Cock is split Opaline and than 50% will be Opaline the other 50% will be Split Opaline. The Hens will be normal unless the cock is split opaline then 50% will be Opaline and 50% will be Normal. Out of all the chicks. 50% will be non spangle 50% will be spangle. Good luck with the pairing, I believe that the good features of the cock bird should help the faults of the Hen to give you some very nice chicks.

Hey, I bags being in on that celebratory drink!! Feathers. Sounds great. I am looking forward to meeting every one. I do hope I have got time to see the Aviary Kaz.

I always place the food in the flights on a tray on the floor. The birds have to fly down and if too fat climb back up to the perches. The Perches are 1.8 m off the floor so that is a lot of exercise for them to fligh down and climb back up. As they loses weight they can start to fly back. I would keep an eye on him as Elly said just to make sure that the weight loss is because of the extra exercise he is getting.

I sold some birds last week to a friend and his first response was "Wow they are big birds..." They were small ones that really didn't make the grade. The wild bird is 4 1/2 inches from tip of tail to crown on head. The standard says 8 1/2 inches. We are now breeding 10 1/2 inch birds. It is a stuggle to keep up with the demand on the Show Bench. I came second to the Champion of Show 2 weeks ago. My next show is Sunday. I hope to do better.

It sounds like the cock bird was feeding it food that it couldn't process due to the age of the chick. It must have been enough to keep one chick alive. As libby said the eyes open around 8 days old. So if the eyes are only opening at 19 days it is very under developed. Not saying it wont survive. I have a yellow face grey that was the same. It is 4 months old now and you wouldn't know it had a hard start.

Did you down load the three files and run them as directed from the page?

Name: Darryl Pets: Some 100 + Budgies. House Pets. 3 Budgies George, Angel and Chirpy. Favorite Color: Colours of nature Astrological Sign: Aquarius Age: 44 Weakness: find it hard to say NO to people and work (Same as Kaz) Strength: Good Natured and a supporting Wife. Favorite Animal: Budgerigars Favorite T.V. Show: Anything on Cooking, Woodworking and DIYs Live: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia How long have been a BBC member:. 1st Joined 1st April 2005

I agree with Kaz. I have never seen it spread. I use Baby Oil but as Libby said, try not to get it in their nostrals, eyes or ears.

I can remember taking a Opaline Light green hen to an Avarian Vet. The questioned me that the bird was a cock. I questioned him that he was a avian vet. He gave the bird a vitamin shot and it died. I now drive 1/2 hour across town to a vet I trust. There are closer ones but I don't trust them.

Interesting, I did a search on Avitrol and it supplies chemicals to get rid of birds. Avitrol is used as a chemical frightening agent to remove pest birds from a given location. ... Are birds affected by Avitrol in pain? ...

No haven't heard of that one. I use AIL from Vetafarm around the aviary. If I get one of the birds with the start of it, I use Baby Oil. Works a treat. I haven't had any mites for over a year.

:hap: :hap:

The links to the photos have been removed by Photobucket. It pay to find out why.

I don't think so.. It would depend on Monday morning. We (you, ken and I) can discuss this over a few Celebratory Drinks on Sunday night... (Hopefully)

A good base for the birds are equal portions of Canary, French Millet, Jap Millet, 1/2 portion of Panicum. 1/4 portion of Hulled oats (grouts) and 1/8 niger. You can add vegetables: Corn, grated carrots, Sprouted Mung beans and snow peas, Celery, Oranges. Gum leaves. Soft Food for breeding cabinets consists of Hulled Oats and Wheat soaked over night in filtered hot water which Avicleans has been added. After draining and washing, I add grated Carrots, Egg Powder Passwell Crumble, Paswell Budgie Starter.

Is it going to be ready by the time I come over?? :hap:

Throwback, it's not that we are unappreciative of people wanting to buy our birds is that at times they take the attitude that we breed to sell. I have had people question why I don't want to sell my birds. I have sold a pair of birds for the best price of all. Nothing but a kind smile from a happy old lady. That is worth more then money. I have given away quite a few birds to people here in the forum. What I am trying to put forward is that we don't breed to sell. But it is the unfortunate part of the hobbie.

I have at time had many inquiries for birds. I know many people don't understand a show breeders motives for breeding birds. I have had some people question why I don't want to sell as they think, or appear so, that I breed to sell. I don't. I breed to show. If I had my way, I wouldn't sell any birds. But keeping them all is not possible. Budgerigars go through changes in there development. A promising chick can have set backs. I have put a young chick in the culling (selling) cage thinking it would not develop well only to take it out a few months later to have it win best of. I have had promising young birds not develop at all past a stage. i have won many trophies, as many know, and have a great love for my birds. They are treated better than many treat their children. They need time to mature and show their full potential. This can take months and so by the time I decide that they are for sale they can be 6 months old. I do have chicks in the nersary that are up for sale because they are not to standard. Recessive pieds can only have between 15 to 20% markings on their wings. So dirty marked Recessive pieds are straight out. My Birds are not hand tame, but many that have been in my aviary know that I have a connection with them. Some do believe that I hand train them. This is not the case. Chicks are handled daily to see how they are developing. This does calm them down considerably. I do have problems with the young birds constantly coming to me as I go into their flights. My birds are full show birds with some of the normals and dominant varieties reaching 250mm to 260mm (10 - 10 1/2 inches) from tip of tail to crown. If you are interested in having a show bird as a pet and can pick up in Brisbane, Let me know. I might be able to help.

This is a bit off topic but I have a nest of 5 chicks that was not doing so well. The youngest was so under nourished that at 12 days he was still to small to ring. He eventually died. I sprayed the nest with F10sc in case there was a bateria problem. Didn't seem to help but with in a few days the chicks all seemed to pick up. The youngest is about 21 days old. I believe that it could be the hen not giving enough nourishment to the chicks and at this time the cock starts to take over the feeding and is giving what the chicks have missed out on.