Daz

Your right Karen if a no factor dark factor bird is breed against a double factor dark factor bird the best you can hope for is a single factor dark factor bird. Thats is, if you breed a sky blue against a mauve the best you can hope for is a colbolt.

No you haven't breed any freaks, I was worried that the male parent might have developed a crop infection and have given it to the chicks. This would explain the muck around the faces. The shaking of head with small food coming out is the bird throwing up. Possible canker or another crop infection. There should be no running poops in the cage as well unless the hen has started another round? Keep an eye onthem if you are feeding vegetables great. If this is caused by seed, I'd think of geting the male parent checked out by a vet.

It is complex. The violet "factor" is not welcomed in some aviaries but is in others. Violet will help deepen the colours of lutinos but will make a sky blue look colbalt...

They are really ravenous all the time, they just cant get enough feed. Their crops look like they are going to burst sometimes, they are always squarking like they are hungry. I am sure they are not normal. The male parent is the same colour and they have looked like this the last week or so. Someone said they might be inbred (unbeknown to me, I might have put a related pair together, would that cause this sort of thing?) The owner of these birds they were not related when I bought them). Is the male shaking his head after eating? Is there small amounts of food coming from his mouth when he shakes his head?

Can't be a lutino. The flights are white ummm Budgiebird... Lutino lacewing...... with white flights

Cinnamon Colbalt (Violet) Male ..... can't decide on the colour. ... Looks like he is feeding himself... umm what are you feeding them? Does the male parent look the same? How long has he been looking like this?

How long have you had these two year old birds? A tail consists of two Quills and the other feathers of the tail. With out the quils they look like they have short tails. The quills can be lost through moult or stress. Usually caused by being moved. Common with older birds that have lived a long period in one spot. You said that you have been after these birds for two years. I take it that they have lived that time in one avery. The move and change of senery could account for the lost. As you can't remember if if they had the tail feathers I would simply ask the breeder. :ausb: Put them on some Probotics or Sparks Electrolite to build back their strength and keep an eye on them :ausb:

It looks black on mine but I could be wrong... if red he will be a lutino. :ausb:

Not too long. I would be feeding it every two hours. As it grows stronger it will be pestering the hen for food. Is this the hen's first clutch?

birdluv it looks like you have a nice pair. Can't realy see well but the boys looks healthy. A reccessed Dark Green Pied and a Black Eyed Yellow (clear)

jenene283 Is the hen sitting on the other eggs? If so I would put him back to the hen. Do you have a 4 to 6 day old chick in another clutch? If so you can put it in with the other chick, it's persistant calling can bring on the crop milk from the hen. If not. Just keep feeding the mixture as recomended. Passwell is very good. As the chick gets stronger it will pester the hen to feed. Then your away. If the hen doesn't get the idea... you will be hand rearing the clutch. :ausb: I'd be giving the hen every chance to get going.

Yes Razzel is fine. That photo was taken about a month ago. He had a touch of scaley face which I treated. It is interesting.... a club member had a hen that wouldn't breed. His son asked him what he was going to do and was told that he going to sell to a pet store. He asked his father if he could try her. His father agree, chuckling that the hen wouldn't lay. At his son's aviary, the hen had two clutches out of which, one chick won best in the Novist division. His father asked for the Hen back and tried to breed with her, but was un successful. His son now has four clutchs from the hen who has produced winners.... Some birds just don't like the surroundings. :ausb:

Is your photo a digital image on your computer? If So Click here for help!

Violets are a different colour strain than colbalt. Blue Strain No Dark Factor = Sky Blue Single Dark Factor = Colbalt Double Dark Factor = Mauve Green Strain No Dark Factor = Lt Green Single Dark Factor = Dark Green Double Dark Factor = Olive. Grey Stain On a blue Bird = Grey On a Green Bird = Grey Green Base Colour on Blue = White Base Colour on a Green Bird is Yellow. I shouild start a new topic on this... :ausb:

Hi LusoPeriquito Thanks Mate. I'll show the photos if I am successful :ausb:

Huey doesn't seem to like to breed and I don't have room in the house for 5 budgies. Seem is very friendly with Razzel and I don't want to part them. I would rather they go to someone like nerwen or Karen that can appreciate them.

Sorry but two of my birds are leaving me...Soon. Karen, Nerwen, you guys have first pick. They are yours for nothing :ausb: Razzel - Dark Green Ressessive Pied Cock. Huey - Colbalt Recessive Pied Hen. (Yes I know the photo is really Duey but I can't find a photo of his sister Huey :ausb: ) I would rather give them to you guys than to a pet store.

Budgerigar (Melopsittacus Undulatus) Family: Parrot Origin: Inland regions of Australia Size: Native – 180mm including 95mm tail Show – 220mm including tail up to 240mm Description: The name budgerigar is derived from the Aboriginal word betcherrygah (meaning good food). It was later named Melopsittacus Undulatus. The adult male (cock) and female (hen) are similar birds to look at while the immature birds are duller than the adults. In the native birds the back of the crown, the sides of the neck and the upper back are barred with black and yellow. The lower back, rump, upper tail coverts and underparts are bright green, and the central tail feathers are green-blue while the under feathers are green with a broad yellow band. In birds that are used for “showing” they are a much larger bird and have black feather markings and six throat spots on the neck. With a “green series” bird the mask and cap is yellow and in a “blue series” bird the mask and cap is white. The eyes should have a black pupil with a white iris ring, the tail feathers should be black and the feet a greyish black. Native budgerigars are migratory birds and move in large flocks to nesting places where food and water is plentiful. It was introduced into England and Europe in 1840 by John Gould. Several mutations have evolved from the native budgerigars and include “sky blue”, “lutino”, “albino”, “greywing”, “cinnamonwing”, “Pieds”, “violets”, “opalines”, “clearwings”, “yellowface”, “lacewing”, “spangle”, “mottled”, “saddleback”, “crested” and others. Care: Whether keeping a single budgerigar, or a pair, an ample sized cage needs to be provided for freedom of movement and the cage should also contain at least two perches – branches of edible trees should be used so as to guarantee there is no toxins in the wood. And a wider rather than a taller cage is better because the birds fly from side to side and not up and down. If possible, the bird should be taken out of its cage each day and allowed to fly around the house for exercise. If it is able to fly around the home make sure that all the windows are closed, curtains drawn (so it doesn’t crash into glass), no stoves are turned on or hot saucepans on the stove or benchtop (but ideally for safety reasons it’s best not to let the bird into kitchen), and if it can fly into the bathroom the bath should be empty and the toilet seats should be down. If you are going to be breeding these birds a good-sized aviary with a “flight” attached and sited in a sheltered part of the garden would be best. You also need to be considerate of your neighbours and the council has laws relating to how big the aviary can be built. If you do not intend to show your birds, then colony breeding may be used in which case you will need to have several nest boxes in the aviary ensuring that two more boxes than there are pairs is supplied. If you intend to show the birds, then it is best to join the local club where you will gain much invaluable advice, not to mention new friends. Each pair of birds should have its own breeding box equipped with a nest box. Strict records need to be kept in a breeding book or on breeding cards. This allows you to keep track of the parents, hatching times and the chicks. Breeders can then buy identification rings from their club that can then be placed on the chicks’ legs from five to 10 days old. Breeders must have these rings on their birds to enable them to show. Food and water dishes must be cleaned regularly and fresh water must be given daily. Fresh seed and greens must be supplied at all times and husks must be blown off the seed dishes each day. A common mistake made is that people will think the bird has plenty of seed in the food bowl but it’s filled with a lot of husks which the bird cannot eat. Its beak and vent (anus) should be inspected regularly to check that they are clean. Eats: A good quality budgerigar seed mix consisting of canary, red millet, panicum, Japanese millet and hulled oats is best. Sunflower and safflower may be given in very small amounts, but remember both these seeds are high in fat. As greens contain essential oils, vitamins and trace elements they should be fed daily. Some ideal foods include chick weed, wintergrass, spinach or silver beet, broccoli, cob corn, apple and carrot. The bird should also have access to a cuttlefish bone and shell grit. NEVER feed avocado as this is poisonous. For young budgerigars it is important to feed them a wide range of fruit and vegetables, as they get fussier as they grow older. Features: If selecting a budgerigar for a pet, it should be purchased as soon as it leaves the nest and is able to crack seed and feed itself. Some people believe that the cock makes the better “talker”. Hens can talk but are slower to learn and they can also bite. A young bird has zebra-like markings that start just above the cere and nostrils and extend over the back of the head. After the first moult (about three months) birds get their adult feathers and barrings disappear. And it’s quite simple to recognise a young bird because the white iris ring does not appear until it’s six months old. Call: Healthy budgerigars are happy birds and are constantly warbling and chattering and can imitate many different noises as well as learning to “talk”. Personality: They make terrific pets as they have great personalities and thrive on human attention. Give plenty of bird toys because they love playing with these, and are easily trained to sit on your hand and to talk. Golden Cob Bird Profile

No not yet. One of the rules is that you can only show your breed birds. So you can't buy one and put it in a show. Two of my show birds have started a clutch. Crystal. - Yellow Face Sky Blue Female Jet - Sky Blue Male I hope to show there chicks.

I have my fingers crossed Karen. Those breeding cabinets are a lot like mine. They are very good... but used. If you bid on one. Make sure it is disinfected and cleaned thoroughly.

25w to 40w perl bulb is fine.

They are not mine Lovey but the first one won First Place in Black Eyed Yellows at the last Show.

Just a couple of Photos from My Clubs meeting on Monday night. Pine Rivers Budgerigar Society

A Handy Book to have.