hath

i keep a couple of older cock birds to keep with the chicks when they are taken out so i would have put him with the other bird

ive just had the same problem with my flights had to take all the natural out put the dowling back in the condition of mine went down hill fast not eating one hen never perched fo almost two weeks spending time on the floor and wire totaly different birds now you can see they are a lot happier

remember we are talking show birds here and violets are inherent small birds so wouldnt be used as outcrosses as we the lutinos would lose size medium and dark factor greens dont pass on the greeny looking colour some lutinos suffer from but light greens do.a darker green will intensify the yellow remember the lutino is basically a green a grey is basically a skyblue with a single or double factor added so it doesnt pass on the blue sheen to a albino and it doesnt dull the birds remember not to use df greys or you will end up with all sf greys

hope every thing goes to plan i wait with baited breath to see the new one

daz started a good topic on spangles so i thought i would put up some thoughts on inos a lot of beginners think these birds are the easiest to get to show standard as you don't have the spots and markings to worry about but colour and size.with lutinos this can be hard to keep the rich buttercup colour as well as size for these you have to go to normals utilizing medium and dark factor greens to keep the green sheen from appearing in the body colour using grey greens will dull the colour size deportment and head quality are paramount a little tip is dont forget that lutino is a masking colour so if you have a good flecked bird it wont show up on the chicks if passed on for the albinos greys are better to use than blues as blue birds can cause a blue suffusion which must be avoided remember cinnamon must be avoided at all cost with lutinos and albinos these are my thoughts on these birds hope this has given a little insight to the show inos

there is a great article in this months budgerigar called role of nutrition in budgerigar breeding there is a section on vitamin toxicity.water soluble vitimins are not stored in the body so daily supply is required this also means that overdosing is less likely although b vitomen is possible and excessive c may cause diarrhoea the fat based vitamins are stored in the body and a overdose of these is much more serious an over view of the article is to help breeders in deciding if a new supplement is required or is already provided more isnt always better unless dietary protien is well balanced all the vitamins/mineral supplements are not going to help and in excess could be harmfull in conclusion a good well balanced diet with a water based suppliment is advised its for people to make up there own mind if they want to provide suppliments they can i personally do give a suppliment 3 times a week with proabotic twice a week and during breeding time a calcium suppliment

try and leave a two inch gap under the box then the chicks have some where to hide when they leave the box

put one up in my flights three days ago £1.99 as for the wall depends how many birds are in the flight it would only take a couple of days to look like that

didnt like them at all which just shows another difference between show and pet

the branchs in the pictures above have all had to be removed and replaced with doweling the birds stoped perching and some stoped feeding as soon as they were changed the difference in the birds was unreal

good luck in finding them i have just paired my best cock (grey normal) to a sp hen today although i have a feeling it might just be a tad to early for her for breeding condition

no daz i have never paired spangle to spangle the gentlman i learned a lot from all those years ago showed me two different lines that had started from the same six birds and the spangles from one side had been paired sp x sp and were not as good as the other line wich were never paired sp x sp these lines had been going for about 12 years so it might just been one of those things and the outcrosses were better for the second line than the first but it allways stuck with me as for fertility i have always found them very fertile (apart from the df spangle cock i have now who thinks its a female)

thats whats great about show budgies daz what do you do go for feather quality or markings you need both as for size when spangles came on the scene thay were naturaly large birds that is why it is thought they only took three years to get to show standard i personaly would always pair to normal but would consider a normal from a cinnamon parent this would normally be a hen so it doesnt carry the cinnomen gene and muddy the wing markings or a normal cock from a normal/cinnamon cock x normal hen as long as this cock bird has had a few rounds so i could be sure its just a normal and not split

i would have to go with pairing to normals only and keeping away from opalines and cinnomons which affect the wing patterns making them less distinct

he is a new one i bought when i started again after the theft comes from a really good line

ive taken him out and put him back in the flight i think i will wait till monday and try a new cock bird and try a new female later with him

well after many years breeding budgies i have come across a problem that i honestly cant remember having before i paired up just over a week ago 7 cages and i put together a new hen in ripe breeding condition and a double factor spangle cock bird over the last three days the hen has shown no interest in him or the nest box seen this before so not unusual but the cock bird has been in the nest box for the last three days sitting in the conclave as if trying to lay or incubate as soon as i have chased him out he goes straight back in now i know about gay budgies but this is taking it a bit far

its fine it still works if they can hear each other its just quicker if they cant

seperate cages its best if they cant here the other call should be ready to pair up to new partners after 7 days

when i remove the nest box a normally remove the hen as well and leave the cock bird with the chicks

the info is good but if you post that and link the site you are promoting them i never heard of them but i have a built in distrust for organisations like these so always look at their main site to see what they are like

its not the link or info but look at their main site of the person who wrote it if you want to promote a group of people against keeping birds fair enough who am i to argue

got to agree i dont think we should have groups like this on this forum im all for stopping animal cruelty but read further on their site no pet birds ect

the world champion a few years ago was a pied (i will see if i can find a photo) if a bird doesnt have the normal spots then it will struggle it might win its section but wouldnt win a cc

recesives and clear wings will not normally win a cc as once they get to the final judging they lack size compared to the other birds lutinos and albinos do win cc agsinst normals but they have to be really special the same as double factor spangles very unusual to win a cc