Daz

I use the Probotic with added Garlic oil.

ikt is really up to the judges.. The birds they put up to win are the ones that will influence the breeders to breed. I think the European Birds have gone to far .... but it love to breed one. :question:

So we have to get rid of yellowface type 2 dogs and cats? I know I should reread some of my posts ... I meant a good bird... um... still doesn't sound right :hap: forget the variety and look at the budgerigar, if it is a good shaped bird with good features, i'd keep it

1-09..... My code is my rings. So the first bird is 1W-001-09 next is 1w-002-09 if I buy a bird it could be GDA-001-09 or 3G-001-09 You can code it what ever you want. Always add the -09 as the year of hatching. It works better on that code.

Can I clarify something first. You don't buy show birds as they cost thousands of dollars. You buy stock birds. Birds that breed show birds. I have paid up to $300au for a stock bird which has done me well. But the best start was a cock bird for $80 and three hens for $30 each. I won Champion Young Bird of show with one of the chicks. I see a lot of stock birds on the forum. Birds that look good but have some faults. If you put two very good birds togeather that have different faults you could breed a bird that has none. This is your show bird.

I merged the your two posts in to one. I've PM'd you on what I do for breeding.. Good Nutrition and plenty of excercise. New birds are quarrenteed for 6 weeks before introducing them to the flight. They are monitor for any problems and given Probotic, vitamins and minerals and plenty of good food.

not like a university to get it so wrong.. Unless the error is in the publication.

In show we cut out some genetics because it's not relavant. eg a type 2 yellowface doesn't exist because it's a fault. Bleeding into the body colouring from the mask is not allowed. So you don't try to keep this type unless it is a bird.

Good advice....

Wing tips should just be touching on top of the rump.

I love this site ... what are you having trouble we JB

Very Nice birds Liv ... all well do you very well.

Recessive pied Grey Green Hen Cobalt Cock (if in the same clutch split recessive pied) Opaline Grey Green Hen. (I think I see grey green in the wings)

Buying in bulk is the way to go.... My order is usually 20kg Canaryseed, 10 kg of each French White , Jap 5kg of red panicum and 10kg hulled oats (grouts) Thats my mix. 20 x Canary 10 x French 10 x Jap 5 x Panicum and a hand full of Niger. The Hulled oats are for the chicks and soft food mix.

Got to get the words accross... It was a pain to go through but I have learnt alot in doing it... As said on another post, I should have put it running water.

The story indicates to me an illness that hasn't been identified.

Produce stores carry it for horses. I use the weak one.

If you have the time you can read my exerience with upgrading an aviary >Visit My Upgrade<

I use Vetafarm True Grit in the finger draws and flight dishes. Calcivet in the soft food. Water suppliments I use are Iodine and Moulting aid. That is it.

Hey Adam .... remember this one.... ;)I have electricity in my aviary, what I would like is running water.

I don't know why your are supprised Splat, they are two very good birds. I'd be proud to have bred them.. You girl are on your way... :anim_19:

For a new 6 unit breeding cabinet I would charge $280 plus nest boxs at $10 each. (pick up) So thats a good price

My experience: I expect to see some kind of action within a week (and usually it happens). If it doesn't I put them back in the flights and put in a different pair. I select birds to put down in cabinets to breed when they are in top breeding readiness. I can't afford to put birds in a cabinet and wait for them to come into condition. In fact I think it's detrimental to leave birds for weeks or months in a cabinet waiting for something to happen. I like them to be in a breeding cage the absolute minimum because I like them to be able to fly and forage. When you release a dud pair to the flight after they have been boxed up for a week they have got to know each other and that often means they will go straight to breeding together when you try them a month or two later. How do I know if they are interested? I load the nest boxes with clean litter such as eucalyptus bark. As soon as you see the litter dragged out onto the floor you know you have a goer. It also replicates natural conditions somewhat in that the hen has to excavate a breeding space, just as might occur in a native tree. Some hens clean out the box with surgical skill, others chew the some of the bark into crumbs which makes a natural aerated bedding. jaznjj I couldn't have said it better. That is exactly how I do it. The season is short May/June to January / February for some, and you don't want to waste time on pairs that won't breed. 21 days is my limit to see if there is any action. I started in mid May and I have stopped pairing now. I have 16 pairs down and will let them go though their clutches. 2 if they have good ones, 3 if they have had small and the hen is strong. But then they will be pulled down for the season and the cabinets removed and cleaned ready for next season.

Spangles would be on top but I also love Dominant and recessive pieds and Yellowfaces.

so i probably shouldnt be planning to breed from this boy when he is old enough then ? I placed the cock in the flight for a few weeks and his cere changed back to blue so I paired him up and have two nice chicks from him. The hen has laid the next clutch and has at least two fertile eggs. I believe that this cock's condition may have been bought on by stress. I bought him at auction so all the traveling may have caused it. I agree with Neville on his thoughts on the matter.