Daz

The new issue date in Australia is the 1st September this year. This is for all 2010 rung birds. For those that are trying to decide on when they need to pair there birds to have birds ready toi be rung for the issue date, here is some ideas. IF your pairing is successful and you have eggs at 10 days. IF the eggs are fertile and the first laid hatches at 20days. IF the chick develops and can be successfully rung at 8days. Then you need to pair up on the 25th July. For me, I'll be leting the birds decide and try pairing around the beginning of July.

I breed from May last year but will start in July this year. Only to tie in with the ring issue date.

Thanks for your comments, I was rethinking the points I put up and to add one comment should be "it's My Plan" but as a starting point for those that are just beginning, it should help. Thanks Heath for your comments, It is a valuable comment seeing where you are now. I think we need to stand back every now and then and revaluateour plans to see if they are working and what need to be adjusted to get back on the track to our goals. I am going to cull very heavily this year. 2/3s of the birds will be sold so that I have the top birds that I have in the flight. In those I am keeping, i'll also keep some of the brothers/sisters of the top birds as my experience is that the top birds are hard to breed with.

Still not a bad read, I would probibly change a few things but not many and not by much. I am now starting my 4 th year showing and am on the verge of being promoted to Intermediate. It may happen this year or next year.. we will see. But I can still say that I am injoying it even more now than when I started. It is a great hobbie.

first glance I thought there were three cages.. then I noticed there were 6. My cages are approx 600 wide x 400 deep x 450 high

I have always mixed mine. 2 x canary 1 x white french 1 x Jap 1/2 Panicin and to 20 kgs a hand full of nigar.

Well I've finished the season with out a mop... I hope I am as lucky next season.

Well let's see... they breed budgies for show in Cairnes and Tasmania. I have my lights on from 7:00am to 7:30pm. Some people have there lights on from 6:00am till 10:00pm. Trees aren't level and the wild birds do okay. I prefer my boxes roughly level but use concaves with wood shavings so the hens sort that problem out themselves. As for that set up, it still needs things "fixed" up, but I am sure that breeder can sort it out. :sadsorry: ... a bar fridge wouldn't go astray. :rip:

Heath here is my old feeding method: (from memory- it's here in the forum somewhere) Seed to the Flight Birds - Soak 1 kg of seed to 1 table spoon of Cod Liver Oil. (Vitamin A & D3) Seed to the Breeding cabinets - 20ml per 1kg of seed. Soft Food. Grated Carrots, Soaked Hulled oats and Soaked Wheat, Budgie Starter and Budgie Crumble. Water was an old water management by Plunket & Tass. It was a 4 week rotationary system. Changed Daily 1st week - 4 days calcivet 3 days plain water. 2nd week. - 4 days probotics 3 days plain water. 3rd week - 4 days soluvet 3 days plain water. 4th week - 4 days cocivet 3 days plain water. The Plain water had Avicleans to stop bacteria. Worming 4 times a year. Fungalin once a year. Vegetables every Saturday and Sunday. New routine: Seed to the Flight Birds - plain Seed to the Breeding cabinets - Moulting Aide 20ml per 1kg of seed. Soft Food, Finely chopped carrots, beetroot, spinach and parsley with added Probotics, Pentivite and Calcivet. Water has 4 days iodine 3 days either plain water or moulting aide if needed. Changed daily. Worming once a year before the Breeding Season with Wormout Gell. I also at times through the year use a mixture of Aloe Vera which acts as a natural wormer. Currently I am trying Tectracycline for 10 days as a more moderate approach than Doxy. The Birds still get Vegitables on a Saturday and Sunday. I add now to the flights and breeding cabinets, Vetafarm True Grit, Charcoal and Budgie and Finch Crumble.

I wouldn't worry too much about the paint. Lead base has been outlawed in Australia and most parts of the world for many years. Great looking cage though. He must think highly of you to put in the effort. :sadsorry:

Heathrow, you can email a copy to me on dwwells@gil.com.au i'd be interested in the birds.

I run the cocks and hens togeather until a month out from my indended pairing period then separate them. Keeping them togeather keeps them active and fit. Henry George also puts a hollow log in the hen's flight to see which ones are coming into breeding condition.

He is. I would be happy with him in my aviary. This is one to keep an eye on. Shannon you know have to make sure that he has all the nourishment he needs to develop strong. The hen can give him that if you keep him with the hen or cock until he is at least 6 weeks old. I wouldn't let him come out of the box until he is at least 5 weeks old.

:budgiedance:

Hi Jenene good to see you back.

Nothing wrong with Yellowfaced DF Spangles. I like Pairing Spangle to Spangle, DF Spangle to Spangle and Spangle to Normals (that came from a spangle pairing).

Put a plastic egg or marbel in the nest. They will get frustrated in trying to break it and hopefully stop. I've done this a couple of times it worked then.

Flecking can be useful. I used it. But you just need to know how to pair and to keep good records. I am looking forward to pairing the Flecked Opaline to a good broad shouldered hen. I like the facial features and length but need to put in the power. There is a German that loves power... names his birds Atlas and Hercules... I don't mind that consept.

Sorry Splat that was an old picture of him. Here he is a bit latter. This is Sook today for those that have been to my aviary and have seen him. This is his brother Sir. He won Champion Young Bird of show in 2007. Here is the sister. Now I didn't mention if it was good or bad to buy flecked birds. I'm puting it out there for discussion. For those that breed recessive pied....

Sunshine Coast Budgerigar Society Inc. Secretary: Neale Love Address: 8 Bangalow Crt, Coory Qld 4563 Phone: (07) 5442 6726 Best Place to get them. Ring Neale as he could tell you of a good breeder in your area.

A good comment in another post regarding buying flecked birds. Is it something we should stay clear of or is it some thing that we can use? Medium Flecking... (I've seen worst) Light Flecking. Clean Cap. His father was a very flecked Opaline.

Sounds very good splat... Flecking now that is a good topic......

Can I add Heathrow that you have had birds in the national's?

Splat I would SWOT them now. S - Strengths W - Weakness O - Opertunities T - Threats Strengths and Weakness's are obvious but Opertunities are things such as age, breeding condition, relationships to your existing birds. etc. Threats come with time. eg, Non breeder, Scalper, etc. You should also do this with your existing birds. Then cross your strengths against your weakness's. Eg if you have a cock that you have bought with a good brow and a hen in your flight with a good mask then that is a good start. Just make sure you don't cross two weaknesses togeather. Two strengths togeather is very good. It will help inforce that strength in the birds.

It's good that you have that type of relationship. It is built on trust.