Daz

As I said, it's interesting on how people perceve bloodlines and Studs. I have my views as put forward, but thats is just that, my views.

I have to agree, I would be selling some of the poorer quality birds and instead of buying more birds, put the money into doing some improvements. Note to everyone: Every Aviary can do with some improvements, even mine. The priority should be to give the birds the best possible enviroment you can. This will help down the track with issues of Illness due to drafts and rain. To Stop mice and vermin that will come around for the seed and chicks. And to stop the smell that can occur due to wet seed and dropings.

It's interesting to see the views or understanding of the concepts on Bloodlines.

Gerald Binks in the Challenge discribes a stud as a closely related group of animals with simalar features. If this is not the case then you have a flight of birds. Renee if you breed a line of birds over many years and put the hard work to take them from the egg to the perch, you would probibly, rightfully call them your line. But if you sold one does it then not become your line but the person that bought it?

Well Done to both of you..

Renee, Let me answer your question this way. When A nestfeather (bar head) I bred won Reserve Champion Nest Feather of Show I rang Gary up and told him that his chick had won the trophy. I will take the credit for getting that chick from egg to bench but the back ground work on the parent birds were by Gary Armstrong. How can I take credit for that.

I would have to clarify what lines are. I believe that if you have an Armstrong bird than it would have certain features that could be identified as an Armstrong bird. Such as Directional Feathering and blow. If you paired two Armstrong birds that were compatible togeather than it would be resonable to assume that the result would still have those features as an Armstrong bird but would have your ring on it. ou would then say it was an Armstrong bird but correctly show it as yours. As Novices, we realy don't have a bird that could be identified as a Wells or a Morgan and that we are trying to create a feature that one day would be identified as ours.. :budgiedance: That would be a nice feeling, but untill then I have other people's lines and am proud of it.

It's a bit like making a cake. If you add Flour to Flour you get flour. But if you add Beer to Flour and then some salt you get a beer batter. It's the pairing that you decide to put together such as the directional feathering and blow of an Armstrong Bird to the Shoulder and strength of a Ganzer bird and the fethering of a Hollingsworth bird could then produce a Wells bird. It's then your recepie.

If I breed Armstrong to armstong it will still be an armstrong blood line. But if I start to breed Armstrong to Ganzer it becomes an Armstrong / Ganzer. As soon as bird has your ring on it it is Your bloodline. No I would disagree. But every Breeder has their view on this. This is what I do. I have may own line which has the combinations in the back ground. I gave up when I paired a Ganzer/Blair & Polle to a Hollingworth / Holmes & Howard. instead of a Ganzer / Blair & Poole / Hollingsworth / Holmes & Howard bird. I called this a D. Wells bird.

I missed Brisbane North and Surfer Paradise. I won't be at Ipswich but will definately be at Sunshine Coast.

Louie, one cabinet is done, nest boxes will be done today and hopefully the other two cabinets this week. Just need to put the fronts and perches in. :budgiedance: I have some photos i'll put up today.

Good luck Splat.. Macka let us know how they go please. :budgiedance:

A golden face is a a green bird with a buttercup yellow face. In genetics it is called a Par Parblue. You have a Yellowface type I, a Yellowface type II and a golden face.

Sounds really nice. I'd love to see the photos. I also ways work on not cluttering up the aviary with perchs and allow 100mm to 200mm per bird with one free perch.

Shannon the first thing you need to do is to have a plan. Steps: 1. Join a club. (you've done that) 2. Go to the meeting and speak to the breeders. 3. Go to the shows and look at the birds to see what a good birds like. 4. Note at the shows who is winning and winning consistantly. 5. Speak with them and ask to visit their aviary. 6. Have a look at the general condition of not only the birds but also the aviary. 7. Talk to them about their Management, What they feed and water the birds with and any medications or suppliments they use. 8. Be prepaired to walk away if you don't like what your hear. 9. If you like what you hear, explain that you would like to buy one or two compatible pairs to start a line off and let them know how much you expect to pay for a pair. 10. If they are willing to sell you some birds at the price you are prepaired to pay, support them buy returning when you need an outcross. Now a couple of things to remember. 1. You may need to sell 8 - 10 of your birds to pay for one of theirs. So if you want 2 pairs you may need to sell 32 - 40 birds. 2. They may not sell to you if they don't think your motives are the best for the birds. Many top breeders don't sell for the money they do it to assist those that they think are doing the best for the birds and the fancy. I have seen a top breed sell to a person and then turn around and give to another. It is called supporting the fancy. But I've know breeders that won't sell to people that they don't trust. You may end up with pet type birds when you want top show birds. 3. The birds that you are buy will need to "Click" with your existing birds. Many times this doesn't happen. My lines are Ganzer, Armstrong, Blair & Pool, Holmes & Howard and trying to start a Hollingsworth. David Ganzer has Holme & Howard and Blair & Pool lines so the birds Click. Gary armstrong and Brian Hollingsworth have Tonkin blood in their birds so they should Click. 4. The birds you maybe presented with are called stock birds not Show birds. You need to know how to pair them not only now but in the future to get them to work. Many new breeders don't do this correctly and fail. This is where you need the support of your club members to help you start. Let it be known that you will be pairing up through a certain period and you will need help on pairing. If you are with a good club, you will get assistance to pair your birds. Shannon, use your club. Support your club, Ask for assistance from your fellow members. This is why we join clubs. They will be your start and your support. Then when you are going good on the bench and winning, then start to look around to other breeders such as Henry George, Bob Smith, Gary Gazzard .... But be prepared to pay for the birds. I know a breeder that paid $600 for a bird that lasted a few hours. Paired him up and the hen killed him. There is no refund on you money when that happens.

Got to agree with Neville and kaz. I've never heard of a GF2 there is only one golden face. I missed read the Cock being Opaline so Kaz is probibly on the right track.

It could have been that you have mixed up the chicks. If they can from the first pairing then the Cock is also split Opaline and both Hen and Cock are split Greywing and the chicks are both hens. More likely the grey wing has come from the second pair and the Mauve Opaline Hen is also split greywing. I am curious, what do you mean "GF2"? Golden Face type 2?

Just for those thinking about building aviaries. I hope this helps.

http://forums.budgiebreeders.asn.au/index....st&p=145918 this post might help.

Shannon I have charged between $0 to $25 for my birds but have been paid up to $70 for a bird. I have seen Henry sell birds from $100 to $250 a bird but has recieved $2500 for a bird. As Renee said it depends on the bird and the person.

I have to agree. They are very good chicks. They will hopefully develop nicely.

Sorry those links are down.

Very Nice they are too.

As nerwen said... We are coming out of the natural breeding cycle of the birds and it is good to give them a rest. I am breaking up my pairing and will repair in June/July

The purple cheek patches show that he's olive. A grey green would have grey or blue cheek patches Neville is right. a grey green has Grey cheek patches.