melbournebudgies

Has the vet considered that it could be a mite infection? I don't mean feather mites that are easy to see but a bad scaly mite infection. A simple topical treatment of ivermec on the back might be all he needs.

I picked up some 'Nest Mate: Budgerigar and young bird rearing food' by Vetafarm today, my local shop had it on clearance as it was two months off the use by(Expires in August, I'll use it by then anyway ) Also picked up some lori food which is supposed to stop the squirting (you lori people know what I'm talking about :hap:) also on clearance. I am looking at using more products with my breeding birds and just wondering what peoples opinions are of the vetafarm products, more specifically their handrearing formulas. I am looking at handrearing indian ringnecks but since it is a general fomula I'm interested what budgie breeders preferences are and why as I plan to keep some in the cupboard at all times for budgie emergencies too. Does anyone prefer a different brand?

http://www.finchsociety.org/cfa/worms/worms.htm Found this interesting page on worms, if you scroll down to the bottom it reviews common wormers. In particular note this section which refers to the one Liz suggested CYDECTIN: Add 5mls to a litre of water and dose for 5 days. Repeat 2 weeks later. Active ingredient Moxidectin, Sheep strength ONLY. Effective against roundworm, gizzard worm, scaly face and air-sac mites. A favourite wormer ESPECIALLY if the 'Red Wormer' is to be used as the follow-up wormer.

Have you change the brand of seed or anything lately? Two legs is unusual so keep a good eye on him.

Maybe it was Pre Moult Tension

Mine do the regurgitatio thing even when their mates aren't around. Check to see that he isn't skinny but otherwise I would say he is fine, just keep an eye on him.

Neat by breeding boxes I meant breeding cabinets not nest boxes I plan to put my double breeding box in the aviary but with a double wire front on it. How far away do you ctually have to keep the other birds? I would assume that as long as the birds can't bite each other through the cages then that would be fine.

Not too many birds Why not put a little table in one end of the aviary with a couple of breeding boxes sitting on it. No need to have a seperate room.

The pied you have is recessive so none of the babies will look pied unless your normal happens to be carrying the pied gene. They will most likely look like normals but they will be carrying the pied gene which means that the grandchildren of your pair could be pieds if the babies are bred to another recessive pied or split pied bird.

The two that are in the one I use are Levamisole and Praziquantel, there is another one which is listed in the other worming thread about which product which has Praziquantel and something else.

Do you recall whether he had any of the toos?(specifically Corellas)

I worm mine about once a month (it's just easier to remember ) As far as the cles brand as long as it has the appropriate active ingredients it shouldn't matter what brand you use. Steer clear of anything that has Piperazine as the only ingredient as this is limitted in what it treats.

Derek you are a wealth of info on good ebay purchases, I always look but somehow you seem to find the ones I miss

I got this on ebay today for 99cents! It's a double breeding box never been used, just been sitting around! Sounds like it might need new doors on the nestbaxes due to getting damp but I still think it's great. It happens to be in Kyneton which would normally be way out of my way but I have to go there to pick up our new pup in about a month and she is happy to hold onto it for me until then. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...N:IT&ih=010

Worm-enda has Levamisole plus Praziquantel which is what that one is by the look of it Derek. So I would say it's pretty similiar, not many of the pet shops around here stock vetafarm and if they do they only stock the foods.

I have just checked what I have in my cupboard. Interestingly I have two brands and they have different active ingredients. My preferred of the two is the one with Levamisole as the active ingredient which actually kills the worms and eggs. The other one has Piperazine which I was told once is not as strong and will actually only knock the worms out rather than killing them. They will get excreted when they are knocked out and generally subsequently die but it won't kill eggs that are excreted so you have to be really careful to clean the cage thouroughly the day after you worm them as they can reinfect themselves if they pick seed from the bottom of the cage and reingest the eggs.ust read further, Piperazine only treats roundworm whereas Levamisole treats all of the worms.

Was she not feeding it as well as not sitting on it? In all honesty at that age handrearing is going to be almost pure luck as far as whether the baby makes it. I think I would be bringing the chick, box and parents inside and supplementary feeding the chick and taking a chance of having the parents in the cage in the hopes that they would start feeding again. There is a chance they might attack the baby of course but weighed against the chances of successfully handrearing a day old bub I would be taking y chances with the parents.

Should I leave the nest box on the ground or put it back up? Just worried about the fact that the babies are starting to swan dive.

This is actually the first time I have decided to letone of my hens go for a second round. So what is the best arrangement for the nest box? The two chicks in there are 3-4 weeks old now and I caught the pair having a bit of budgie love today so I suspect they are starting to think about round two. The nest box is currently on the floor of the cage with the end open as the older chick is starting to poke her head out of the box and has jumped out once already. Is it best to put the two current chicks into an open topped box(like a shoe box or something) on the floor of the cage for dad to feed and put the nest box back up or should I leave the chicks in the nest box?

My adults are of course all wormed but I'm just wondering at what age others worm their babies. In the past it has just happened when babies go out to the aviary and the other adults get their next worm, but now that more of my babies are going to other homes as soon as they are old enough I probably need to start worming them earlier.

Grey green opaline cinnamon -the cinnamon makes her look yellow .

And a rear view

Just my personal exoerience but I've always found budgies are more likely to become independant. Compared to my other species they aren't quite as smart (sad but true) and are therefore less likely to become attached and dependent on their humans, doesn't mean that won't be your friend but if they have a budgie friend they are more likely to love them than their humans.

There is no reason you can't try with a little seed in your hand. Since you are sitting at the computer you could put a little dish of seed next to you on the desk and encourage him to sit up next to you. I have a little wooden 'playgym' that sits on the kitchen bench while I am doing stuff in the kitchen(not cooking though) ad I find that is great. Just keep persevering with the vegies, he'll get it eventually.

Personally I do 'come to me' training when their wings are clipped. Iput them on a large surface like the bench or the floor if I am sure it is safe and get them running to my hand to take a treat, then as they start to get the ability to fly again I put my hand a few inches from the edge of the bench so they have to jump on to get the treat and so on. You might find that you need to go back to basics and clip their wings agin if they are already ignoring you and work more on getting them to cometo you before they grow back again