RIPbudgies

I don't think he'll worry to much about what variety/colour is as long as it is a girl. I'll give you two parings to consider. I am not going to worry about colours or other mutations. Pairing 1. FBC Greywing X Greywing Result: 50% Greywing: 50% FBC Greywing OR Pairing 2. FBC Greywing X Clearwing Result: 50% FBC Greywing: 50% Clearwing Take you pick it will depend on what you visually want. The darker markings of the Greywing or go more for a light shade of grey with the Clearwing.

I am glad that you found the article interesting. Being done in colour codeing it makes it so easy to follow. Using correct nomenclature reduces confusion. I have plenty more interesting stuff for you guys but it will take time to find, sort and move from the other computer. I did start designing a website back in 2002 I think it was but never finished it. I might just try and pick up where I left off but I am lacking photos of birds so made need some help from you guys. Now JimmyBanks and company I'll fill you in on my background just a tad. Correct I do not keep, breed, nor show budgies at this time. I also do not belong to any clubs. So here is some background. I bred and exhibited budgies for twenty years. Represented WA in the nationals with Clearwings. The Black Eyes if I remember correctly got pipped at the post in the state selection. The Nationals was never really a goal for me anyhow. I was and still am a great big sponge where genetics are concerned. I have read the book about the discovery of the double helix by Watson and Crick and other like material and watch countelss documentaries on the subject. I just love Science. As I mentioned is another post I did research with mice regarding pied inheritence. I also have a fascination with horse genetics. You think budgies have some modifiers! You should see the pied types in horses!! I was a breeder of rares and I did a great deal of research with the varieties and was in constant contact with people such as Inte Onsman, Ken Yorke, Ghalib Al Nassar, Ken Gray to name a few. I have pictures of some of my birds in Terry Martin's book "A Guide to Colour Mutations & Genetics in Parrots". I kept every variety mostly for research but I did have the show stock as well. I made it a point to keep Olives and Mauves as they are useful when breeding certain varieties, Violets in particular. I had quite a stock of Dutch Pieds also known as Continental Clearflights. I was one of a few breeders still breeding the Australian Goldenface to the show standard. I also kept some extremely rare varieties such as the Dark Eyed Clear and Brownwing. I also had in my possesion and was the only one in the state at the time that had them Saddlebacks, Fadeds and Darkwings all of which were obtained from Ken Yorke in NSW. Also had a mutation appear in my aviary that when I reseached it I concluded it was the same as one sighted by Cyril Rogers, namely the Self Coloured. Mortality rate was around 90%. Not a single bird of this mutation left my aviary because of this problem. In fact it was too damn hard to maintain so I let it die out. Anyway I guess that is a little bit of background. Any questions feel free to ask me.

absolutely adorable babies. I knew some people using peet moss with good success. Never used it myself. I used either untreated pine, jarrah or a combination of these two and I have also used Bran. I had a a good supplier for the shavings never had a problem with it or the bran. I used copious quantities as I did have 60 breeding cabinets on the go during the breeding season. Chaff is fine and will add moisture as it is cut whilst there is still some moisture in the hay. If not cut at the correct time it will not make good quality hay. Being into horses since a child I have never had mites in chaff but then good quality hay/chaff was always bought. Poor quality/musty chaff/hay will soon see a horse go down with colic and the hip pocket will suffer.

Can she be both a clearwing and a dilute or is that not possible? The Greywing, Clearwing and Dilutes are a mutation which are genetically know as multiple alleomorphs. In other words it is one gene that has mutated a number of times. They have an order of dominance. Other alleomorphic budgies are 1. the Texas Clearbody, Ino group and the 2. the Goldenface & Yellowfaces Mutant 1 & 2, Group Greywing is dominant over Dilute. Visually such a bird would look Greywing. Clearwing is dominant over Dilute. Visually the bird would look Clearwing. Greywing and Clearwing are co-dominant to each other and in combination give the Full Body Coloured Greywing. It can also be written as Greywing/Clearwing.

Australian Yellowface or Goldenface whichever you prefer to call them. Your bird is an Australian Yellowface(sf) Opaline FBC Greywing. As for the body colour I am tossing up between Violet Sky and Cobalt but leaning towards Violet Sky as the cheek patch is quite dark and the body feather rather inconsistent with a normal sky colour. Your query - Full Body Coloured (FBC) Greywing X Normal / Greywing Results are - 25% Split Greywing 25% Greywing 25% Split Clearwing 25% FBC Greywing All birds will have full body colour except for the pure Greywing. It will be around 50% of normal as will the cheek patches. The markings will be a strong grey especially on a blue bird. On a green bird they are sometimes seen as brownish and can and do end up miss-classed at shows.

Generally I like to use the mutation name first followed by the colour. She looks Light Green in the photo. If I was to record her the way I did my budgies it would be Dilute Light Green.

I tried for ages to get this article on this website with no luck. It wouldn't read the table tags for some reason. So for anybody intested you'll have to follow this link. http://doves.com.au/dkfactors.html

Nome & Tim your birds are Black Eyes and damn good ones too. As far as the differance between Black Eyes and Dark Eyed Clears there is no way to mix them up. BE's have an eye ring and DEC's do not. BE's almost always show evidence of barring and DEC's don't. The exhibition Black Eyed Self is usually a Cinnamon Dilute. The Dilute in its true form has around 25% body colour and light violet cheek patches. When Cinnamon is included and retained over generations the body colour is greatly reduced as are the markings and the cheek patches become silvery white in appearance.

This hen is a Dilute and I wouldn't be surprise if she was Cinnamon also. It would explain why the markings are more diluted than usual plus the cheek patch is not as intense as it should be but that could be the photo. A Clearwing body colour is around 90% of a Normal.

JimmyBanks you are correct. The Type I or Type II is relative to the dark factor in respect to where it was inherited from. If a Dark Green split for Blue inherited the dark factor gene from an Olive parent it will be it will be a Type I. If the Dark Green split for Blue inherited the dark factor from a Mauve parent it will be a Type II. I have an easy to follow article showing the different pairings of Lt, Dk, Olive Green, Sky, Cobalt and Mauve and how to work them out using Punnet Squares. I'll try to get it from the other computer and post it for you guys.

I know how you feel and I feel so sorry for you. My son who at the time wasn't even in his teens left the cage door open on the pet chook cage and the dog got her. He did the same thing a year or so later and a pigeon that I had hand raised also became a victim. Same dog too.

Try this http://www.ozdoggy.com.au/ozdoggy/profile.jsp?ozdoggyid=4385

I would say the bird is a Dark Green Dom Pied. I cannot see the photo of the mum very well and I am guessing that it is Recessive Pied (does it have an eye ring) as you seem certain the chick is split for same. In that case I never been a fan of pairing Aust Dom Pied with Recessive Pieds as quite often it can lead to indentification problems later. Now assuming I am right with the recessive your baby can be either:- 43% chance of being a Dark Green / YF2 Type II Recessive Pied or 7% chance of being a Dark Green / Blue Type II Recessive Pied I see no real evidence of Violet. Be careful when looking at babies in immature feather. The term Clearflight should not be used in conjunction with any type of Dominant Pied other than Continental i.e. Continental Clearflight which is a distinct Pied Type. Pied Type birds are quite variable in regards the quantity of pied feathering produced. Although years ago when I was breeding mice I selected on individuals with the most variegated markings resulting in many gerations later of mice that had 50/50 pied pattern compared to the original parents which had approx 10% pied pattern. No normal coloured mice were introduced as they would have "diluted" so to speak the gene pool for pied inheritence. I have had Dom Pieds in single factor that were just like the baby pictured. I also bred Dutch Pieds, Dark Eyed Clears and Danish (Recessive) Pieds. All these types are quite variable and I found the Dutch Pied to vary the most. I had an Olive Dutch Pied with only a patch on the back of the neck yet he produced some of the best variegated youngsters.

I have used Avione in the past for hand raising abandoned babies. Great stuff. Keep as an emergency. Just make sure the parents have a well balanced diet and they should be fine to raise a fine crop of babies with out a problem. If you wish to supplement their diet a little sprouted seed goes a long way. Try mung beans, Triticale, Oats, Barley and the Millet seeds.

Bit hard to tell from photos but here goes. 1. Cobalt Normal 2. Green Normal 3. Pied Green Series 4. Normal 5. Pied Green Series 6. Pied Green Series Now if you want some expectations from the parents. 1st pair: Opaline Light Green cock X Dominant Pied(sf) Light Green You don't say what the green is so I have assumed Light Green. I have also assumed the Dom Pied to be single factor. RESULTS- 25% Light Green Dom Pied(sf) / Opaline cocks 25% Light Green / Opaline cocks 25% Opaline Light Green Dom Pied(sf) hens 25% Opaline Light Green hens 2nd pair: YF2(sf) Greywing Sky Blue / Recessive Pied cock X Opaline Mauve hen I am assuming the YF to be a single factor. I have calculated for the Greywing but suspect the it is most likely a Dilute. I would like to see a photo of this bird. RESULTS- 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Danish Pied, Opaline cocks 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Danish Pied, Opaline cocks 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Opaline cocks 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Opaline cocks 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Danish Pied hens 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Danish Pied hens 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing hens 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing hens Hope this helps you.

JimmyBanks

You will find the price variables will be due to a number of things. 1. Location - High rent prices in desirable suburbs. High rates also if building is owned. 2. Size of Practice - The more people employed, the more wages to be paid. But having said that sometimes this is a good thing as more people to care for animals which is then reflected in a higher standard of care. 3. Experience - Some vets just starting out may price low to attract new customers. On the other hand some are not money hungry. In my past experience seeking veterinary care for my many past persuits with dogs, cats, horses and birds I pick the one who first and foremost cares about the animals without being too expensive. Those who more involved in a certain animal's persuit will generally be more pliable to that particular animal. So if you want a good budgie vet find one who is really into birds. There are vets out there who have preferances. It's your job to find them. As far as wing clipping you can do it yourself. Poop tests also can be carried out by yourself. Get a microscope and good book on what parasites look like. Also keep your birds in a controlled situation and don't chuck a new-comer straight into an aviary. Quarantine all new birds.

DF Grey is not a theory, it is fact. Photos taken in incandesant light will always alter colour due to the light spectrum emmitted. They tend to cast a browish glow. It must be remembered that Green or Grey Green baby budgies before going through their first moult will show blue or grey feathering especially in the lower half of the body. The full colour will not be realised until the moult is completed. This is due in part to the feather structure. It is immature and lacking a great deal of the internal features that make up a mature feather. In fact all immature budgie feather lack the full depth of substance and colour of a fully grown Budgerigar. Going on the photos provided it looks like the parents are Light factor SF Grey Greens. Although it is possible one may be a Medium Dark SF factor Grey Green as the resulting chick once going through the moult appears to be a Medium Dark Factored Grey Green budgie. Only breeding with the appropriate blue series bird will tell. From the results so far produced from the Grey Green pair the Baby in question is a cock and he will be split for Opaline and a 25% chance of being split for Cinnamon and a 25% chance of being DF Grey. If you wish to test this theory pair him up to a Sky Normal hen. If the bird still retains some plumage amongst the body different in colour i.e. Grey Green with Grey patches is is possible the bird is a form of half sider. Do give the bird a chance to moult a couple of times though as there have been many changes to the feather of the modern budgie.