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I really do not know , what is the idea behind the flour , they are just the recommendations I collected , but you are right , there seems no reason to use the flours. Cinnamon was said to be a preventive against diarrhea .

Hi , I was working on a soft food recipe with discussing some breeders , below is the result . Equal portions of ; 1-Oat flour 2-Wheat flour 3-Rice flour 4-Corn flour 5-Soy flour 6-Semolina 7-Powdered Carob 8-Egg powder The above items will be mixed and stocked in the refrigirator. When serving , to soften the mixture grated carrot + a green veggie will be used . Cinnamon, thyme and probiotic powder wil be added like adding salt . I gathered this with infos from different breeders from show type to pet type , before trying , I just would like to take your opinions . Thanks .

Nothing special ; carrots , broccoli , spinach , parsley , alfalfa and wheatgrass + boiled egg I canceled the fruits as they sour more quickly . There are around 80 birds , housed indoor in cages and in two aviaries .The room is heated , temp is between 14-20 C as it is winter here . There is an aquarium to keep the humidity up . I got UVA+UVB bulbs also . Two of the fenced windows are continously half open , I can not sense an air flow as the window heights are around 3 m. from the ground and I am not a basketball player

I know it is always recommended to feed fresh veggies and fruits which I was doing regularly at least five times a week . The mixture includes nothing that is forbidden or poisonous to budgies . It is served in the morning and te rest is taken when I come from work , it usually satys 12 hours in the cage . But this regime seems to lead to diarrhea on some of my birds , could this be the cause or should I look for something else ? By the I may be mistaken in diarrhea diagnosis as I am not experienced enough , the droppings are green with a little or no white portion . They seem not very watery and hold their cylinder shape so the feces portion is formed . If it is not diarrhea , is it something else different that I should worry about ?

Hi , I have a plan to build a new aviary but this time I will make it from iron profiles instead of regular wood . I would like to learn what kind of painting can be used as I like to eliminate any poisining risks . Are there also antibacterial types ? Thanks .

a funny video

I just would like to report the status , I had lost 6 birds out of 30 effected , the rest is recovering well , like Kaz said the problems differed in each bird and I have had to learn many lessons as the vets around the city I leave have very minor experience on birds . Now , my medicine inventory covers a wide range of diseases , hope I will not have to use them again . I was not having a separate hospital cage with heating or lightening availability , so I had to begin the treatment in a room temparature of 16 C . Later , when I was able to create a temparature controlled enviorement around 30 C within hospital cages , there happened a real quick improvement , in a few hours they were more active and feeding themselves better . One thing , I was sorry is a lack of crop needle as with this on hand I might had been able to save more birds , never the less I ordered some and will be ready to use in a week . As I said , after bad experience with the vets around , I decided to learn more on the bird diseases , for now , I have no intension in budgerigar breeding , more likely my aim is to keep my flock healty and happy . I stoped the breeding until I feel myself confident in keeping budgies . I will be glad if someone can suggest a detailed book for budgie health problems , their disagnosis and treatment . Thanks in advance .

There is a very obvious pumping motion of the brest with each breath and they are stretching their neck , if what I learned is correct the aim of this is straightening their trachea . I guess this is a lower respitory infection , I started a treatment with tetracycline 3 days ago , there is a noticeable improvement on the birds , tail pumping is less . The treatment will continue until Sunday but by the medic , they had diarrhea , I will add boled potato and banana to their diet .

Some of my birds started to wave their tail feathers up down continously , it is more obvius when they spend some effort flying etc... When closely looked , the reason seems to be the ritmic tightening muscles around the vent area , they still eat well , fly well , is this a sign of ilness ? Both females and males do it . Thanks in advance for all the responses .

I have two pairs that dislikes this perch , altough it seems not to be too loose , they menage to push the perch into the nest box somehow . I am not sure if this is a way of saying , I do not want to breed

I grind all these with a blender and fill the cavities of the ice tray , it takes around 4-5 hours to get it completely frozen . This amount is enough for one week for 40 birds , this fills 5-6 standard ice trays and half of the tray's cavity comes enough for a pair . I do not wait long to get it melt , before putting the divided cubes into the feeding cups , I quickly pour some water upon them and wait for 5-6 minutes . A tip for those who are not fond of softwood , covering canary seed and pushing a bit into the cube helps a lot , I know all birds are different but mine likes canary at most and this worked out as a good way to trick them .

Hi All , I just would like to share my feeding routine and have comments and corrections if I am in a mistake somewhere . My Seed Mix : 25% Millet 25% French millet 25% Canary 3% Linen seed 3% Hemp seed 3% Niger 6% Peeled oat I buy them seperately and mix with the above ratios , this seed mix is available 7 days a week Soft food : I have 8 main ingreedents 4 boiled eggs 4 carrots A bunch of parsley 6-8 Egg shells (boiled , owned and powdered) 1 banana 1 teaspoon of olive oil 1 teaspoon of fish oil + Vitamin supplement The other ingreedents depends on what I have (I usually select three from the fruits and three from the veggies): A tomato A cucumber A bunch of whetgrass A bunch of Spinach A small amount of red cabbage Two Kiwis An Apple (the seeds are taken) A Peach 1/2 Melon All goes trough a blander and frozen in ice trays , I feed this mix 5-6 days in a week . Once a week I add a small amonunt of yogurt or kefir on the soft wood while serving . Sprouted Seeds : Once or twice a week Iodine and mineral blocks are always present along with the grit . I occasionally feed them fresh veggies directly , something like once in a month . I am trying to find lime pieces just to hang to the cages in rotation with cuttle fish bones . Drinking water is changed daily with mineral water (without gas) but I do not use any additives , I spray them with normal water once in evey two days in summer (rarely I add a little apple vinegar to the spraying water) All responses will be appreciated . Thanks .

Thanks Kaz , now I got the point , I was always thinking the line breeding and inbreeding as same . Leave and learn , if I do not add new stock to my flock , I will be line breeding without inbreeding . This is because I will be within the same blood line . Anyway , most of non Australian budgie breeders might be line breeding as Australia is not exporting budgies for a long time , so the dangerous one is in breeding .

Thanks a lot for the replies , he has a layer of wood shawings but not a concave , all the nest boxes he uses are same . Then , prior to thinking about genetics , he should have another try with a better setup and being sure about the calcium levels . By the way , what are the outcomes of line breeding ? What kind of disconformities may appear ?

Thanks Kaz , cotton gloves helped a lot , I was using the surgery ones , otherwise I will be the one who gets used to being biten instead of her being used to my regular checks . I have alo noticed when the cock is in the nest too , she goes out more easly (the cock stays in) and gives a few seconds , by the way cock in this case is great , he is very fond of his heirs , incubates and feeds them regularly , 3 out of 5 has been hatched , today I am expecting one more , after two weeks I may remove the hen and let the cock finish the job and have comfortable cleanings as I will have to do once in a every second day .

Hi everybody , In the weekend , I had a visit to a breeder in my city , he is much more like a beginner and has only 5 pairs and 16 chicks . 3 of the pairs were bought all at once from a petshop 8 months ago , when they were 2 months old . 3 pairs out of 5 are having their first clutch where one pair's all four babies have splay legs . The first thing that pops in my mind is they may be sister and brother and he is line breeding unintensionally and recommended him to not to breed this pair . He is now on the cure for this 4 baby hopefully they will recover . I do not pretend to be an expert and I am not sure I am on the correct diagnosis for splay leg effecting all the clutch that is why I wanted to hve it confirmed . Can there be another reason or just only bad luck ?

I am in trouble with one of my hens , at the moment I put my hand into the nest I got two blood drawing bites out of three and retreated immediately Today , as the second egg had to be hatched and I had a fight with the hen for 10 seconds to make her leave the nest , hopefully this time I was holding a millet spray in trying to convience her to out . Checking the nest boxes with this hen is a problem and I am afraid of causing any harm to the eggs or the chicks hatched . I am also a bit afraid of having more bites and bloody fingers :rofl: Sorry if adding a question under the topic is against the forum rules , I can open it again in Breeding Help section , is there any way having her get used to regular checks and cleaning ?

Before BBC , I have browsed several forums , red several articles . It has not been much I have been here , but gained so much valuable knowledge and the most important thing is , before BBC , I had collected terrible advice and lots of OWTs , but hopefully BBC helped me out much in sorting the good from the bad and when it comes to live animal keeping , you need a forum like BBC and dedicated members to not to repeat someone's mistakes that are shared as experiences . Thanks for everything .

All we know , budgerigar is an aborginal name meaning "nice to eat" Well , it thougt It might be a good idea to share the other names and the meanings for budgerigar in different languages , this is an internatonal forum let's enjoy . Budgerigar is "Muhabbet Kusu" in Turkish , "kus" means bird , "muhabbet" means chat , chat bird , I believe the name in this case makes sense

I have had a contact with Sera (a company from Germany , manufacturing mostly aquarium products) as I plan to install their uv bulb for reptiles . My main question was how to install , they recommended not exceeding 1 meter distence between the cage and the bulb to let the birds benefit from the rays and the best vaule would be 40-50 cm . This has to change my birdroom layout as currently I have a distance of two meters at least (the bulbs are placed on the side wall), I may have to re-consider about the windows .

Hi , I have multiple breeding cages with four levels that can house 24 pairs , my intension is to use these as small aviaries each level containing 4 birds . I will build a main aviary some time and aviary/breeding cabinets will be an initial setup . Cabinet sizes are 120*50*55h (each level)and can be divided into two , today I have tried to divide with clear plastic instead of the regular plywoods but experienced the birds crushing it . Can an undivided cabinet with the measures given keep 4 budgies without any next box comfortably ? Should I keep them separate with these plastics ? Will budgies get used to the presence of an unseen obstacle in time ? All responses will be aprreciated .

I do not pretend to be an expert , but my budgies get sprouted seeds at least once in a week . During these days normal seed consumption degreases dramatically :offtopic:

A very usefull article , thanks a lot Daz . "I installed reptile versions of full spectrum lights which had a fair amount of UVB emissions (timed to come on when I was absent)." now I am more comfortable to use what I can purchase easly , was not aware clear glass was blocking UV-B rays , never the less I can not get rid of the windows , will support my bird room with UV-A and UV-B emitting reptile type 2*36 Watts flourecent bulbs .

It should have been a hearthbreaking experience , hope you will not have to face with this again .

Hi Renee , The closest thing in the google search (as Turkish) I get is hotel ARCADIA , I have no access to this locally and no chance to order it internationally and receive it as one piece The UV levels in the Sera product are nearly as twice of the Arcadia , would this be a problem ? The Arcadia Bird Lamp has been developed in order to provide an artificial source of ultraviolet (UV) light, which is essential to captive birds denied exposure to direct sunlight. The use of a light source that mimics the natural UV content of sunlight has recognised health benefits, and provides birds with a more natural view their surroundings, encouraging natural behaviour and in many cases improved breeding results. Unlike normal fluorescent lamps, the Arcadia Bird Lamp uses special UV emitting phosphors to replicate the spectral pattern of sunlight with 12% of the total light output emitted as UV-A and 2.4% UV-B.