nubbly5

Hey Lib When you read breeding expectation charts just remember that the ratios of different colours are based over a large number of breedings which will end up giving you a result close to the breeding expectation ratios. Therefore it's often better to think about the chances of each egg being a certain result = to the breeding expectation ratio. For example with your split ino cock bird the expected breeding results when bred to a normal hen would be: 25% ino hens 25% normal hens 25% split ino cocks 25% normal cocks So in reality each egg that hatches has a 1 in 4 chance of being an ino hen, or a 1 in 4 chance of being a normal hen, or a 1 in 4 chance of being a normal cock etc. Hope that helps.

Hey Kaz Just got home from a 2500km round trip from Bunbury through Coorow, Carnamah, Geraldton, Calingiri and home again. Will take some more pics over the weekend and do some measuring for you. Hope you don't mind a small wait! Cheers Gina

How are those poor SA birdies going? It was predicted to be 40 degrees in Adelaide wasn't it?

Glad to hear that your birds are looking better GB. And good to know that you've been able to have amore sensible conversation with your vet about it all too. Go girl - go GB's birds!!!!

So if you were concentrating on spot and brought in an outcross with good spot, if he bred youngsters and the best of those had not such great spot and the lesser birds had great spot, would you still breed with just the best assuming that the genetic potential for better spot would still be in those lesser youngsters? Edited due to ........ oops sorry - no punctuation.........

Oooooooooh I LOVE men in skirts...... it's very sexy you know! Bagpipes too are oddly.....ummmm...... fascinating.....

Hey CB, do you use many outcrosses or is your flock very closed? One thing I found early on was if I bought in a really good cock bird and used him over average hens (all I had back then) and he bred youngsters that were maybe not up to the same quality as other cocks in the aviary (mainly due to the hen quality used) that I was tempted to move them on. I took the chance on one of them a few years back and used a lesser son of a great cock bird, paired to a not bad hen and they bred sensationally. Do you see some merit in the thoughs of using maybe lesser birds from strong studs as a way of improving your own stock? I see the situation differently for a closed stud when family traits are well known and then definitely best to best is really important in my view. Your thoughts?

You're right, it was disrespectful and I apologise. Sorry Jeddo, I was just being silly and kidding around. In all honesty I hadn't even thought of where budgies evolved from. Hope you get your answers soon Yep me too..... sorry for suggesting that some of you guys out there might look (and smell (didn't think of that one CB!)) like big hairy ape men. You know that you CAN get you backs waxed. Some people take themselves WAY too seriously don't they.........? How about we all lighten up somewhat, believe whatever you want - as far as I am concerned or CARE budgies might have been pulled out of some benevolent deity's backside!!!!!! Does it really matter in the whole big scheme of things? For me this was actually one of the most FUN topics - I just can't help the smart *rse comments - sorry about that That's just my sarcastic and weird sense of humour.............. and THAT my dear fellow forum users I won't change. Have a big laugh and get over it

:offtopic:

Yep thats what I mean Amy. There are even a few very fine markings running through a couple of the small wing feathers close to the mantle which is very typical of opaline spangles.

OH YOU SNEAK!!!!!!!!!!! And I was more than happy for people to NOT know what it actually meant....... sheesh.

Wow REALLY??????? Gee and I thought there were enough guys out there that were living proof of them having descended from apes (present company excluded of course :offtopic: )

Thank you so much everyone for trying to explain this for me........ :offtopic: but mutations are VERY hard........ The blue chick has no brown or black markings on the wings ...I know the picture looks as if there is around the flights and tail but there is nothing.......she is blue and white only, must be a shadow or something in the photo....I will take another picture tomorrow.. So only dad can be split cinnamon and opaline?....because I got a cinnamon chick (green)and an opaline/spangle chick (Blue)....?? Well stuff me sideways, in each photo you have of her I can see markings as could GB. Please post some more, as it would be good to know if I am just seeing things or you are just not seeing things - both of which are entirely possible. And yes Dad can be split for both cinnamon and opaline as they are both different sex linked recessive genes

I am sure Nubbly will correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is backlining is chemically treating sheep for lice generally around the same time they are shorn. Yep backlining is applying chemical to the backline of an animal (along the spine). Can backline cattle (using cattle pour-ons, can backline sheep etc etc). Can be done directly off-shears or for sheep in long wool. Can be done for lice treatment or flystrike preventative. In this case it was off-shears lice treatment and it was F-ING HOT. Today however it's about 20 degrees cooler here. Go figure?! As far as for breeding in Jan/Feb - have done so for the last few years. I just cannot get good breeding results over winter and get great results in summer. 2 healthy hatchees in yesterdays heat is pretty much how it goes for us. BUT it is really nice in the breeding room even in the heat - so long as the cooler is on the shutters in the aviary are open and I LEAVE the birds alone and don't disturb them during the heat of the day.

Yep both parents MUST be split for blue as blue is straight recessive not sex linked recessive.

LOOOOOOOOK! It's got MY NAME on it. Gee thanks Kaz! When do I pick the beautiful baby up to take home . Oh and by the way Nubbly means..... ummm............ Nubbly and the little cutie is very nubbly don't you think?

Well I was out in Coorow today backlining sheep, drove on through to Carnamah this arvo and it was 47 degrees. I almost passed out when getting out of the car to go talk to some clients instore. I was only glad that it was not ever going to be as hot as that some 500km away at home. Rang home tonight and all is well in Nubbly-budgie-land. All going well absolutely no losses and another 2 hatchee's today.

And I know where YOU live Frannie71!!!!! When I find out that they have made it back to your place you'd better put that big goof of a dog out near the aviary!!!! It might not deter Dave from getting in though so when they go missing be sure to check Dave's place okay?

Unless they are tiny clearwings!!!

Not a greywing I'm afraid - very very much a clearwing. Wing markings are the hazy sort that you get with marked clearwings and not grey enough for a greywing. Many many clearwing tail quils show as grey - especially if the breeder has been outcrossing to normals to try and increase size. The tail itself is also not grey enough for a greywing but shows the clearer colour of a clearwing. Why oh why do I bother posting a whole topic on clearwings I ask myself???????? And it's definitely NOT a YF. Green budgies will very often show blue around rump and vent area, especially as youngsters. Quite normal! If it were a YF, at this age it would look like a BLUE budgie with a yellow face and then as it moults out would show more yellow suffusion later. Your beautiful baby is a light green clearwing.

I'm sure there is something of a pathway there but you are talking to budgie entusiasts not archaeologists. Might not be the right forum for you to get a sensible answer to this question! Sorry. Might be better if you ask us something like - "Whats the difference between a lacewing and a lutino?"

Gee it's amazing the difference in the photos. Definitely shows the black when you don't use the flash. Shows up like cinnamon when you use the flash! Goes to show how hard it can be to get mutations correct by photo sometimes! He is such a cutie though and such a handsomely marked recessive pied!

okay lets set the record straight here shall we. Respiratory illness in budgies is often an infection caused by mycoplasma (causing a condition known as CRD or Chronic Respiratory Disease). Moxi T (containing amoxycillin and tylosin) effectively treats mycoplasma. Triple C (containing chlortetracycline) also treats mycoplasma. Pooey bums is often an infection caused by e.coli (causing a condition known as bactierial enteritis). Moxi T effectively treats e.coli. Triple C effectively treats e.coli. So to be honest Renee you could use either to treat both pooey bums or respiratory illness. Which one is slightly better would come down to what is known as the MIC's (or minimum inhibitory concentration) of each antibiotic against each organism.

What is the active ingredient splat? Don't worry I found it...... what are you actually treating for?

Renee - Triple C is NOT a sulfur based med it is an ANTIBIOTIC.