It seems over the last few months that Spring is in the air...well for the southern hemisphere anyway and that Breeding for some is all what is on there budgies mind. I thought after a discussion in club that I would discuss the best requirements for setting up a breeding cage.

 

The breeding cage should be purpose build or bought . I use a timber breeding cage that is 600 long x 450 high by 350 depth (measurements in metric millimeters) so thats 24 inches x 18inches x 14 inches.

 

In this picture you can see the cage with the nest box on the inside. I have change the concept to hang the nest box on the outside.

 

Nest box on the outside.

 

The larger the breeding cage the better. I would not go under this size.

 

The same with the nest box.

 

This was the last size I made measuring 250mm high x 210mm wide x 153mm deep.

 

I have changed this to now 250mm (10") High x 215mm (81/2") deep x 210mm (81/4") wide .

Similar to the breeding cage, budgies like a large nest box.

 

The perches are now different sizes. I use a 12mm and an 18mm round hard wood dowl. but will be changing all to 12mm round dowl and an 19 mm square perch for the hen. The difference in sizes are to excersize the feet of the bird. 2 successful clutches can take over 100 days minimum so the birds are cramped up in the breeding cage for sometime.

 

Breeding cages can be "Stacked"

I currently run 9 breeding cages, a nursery and a full flight.

 

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

Water that is replace everyday.

I use a water management system that involve vitamins, probotic, calcium additives and plain water.

Medication and worming is also administered via the management.

 

In addition I have a cuttlefish, a finger draw with minerals, an Iodine and charcoal bell.

 

The hen is placed in the cage for 3 days before introducing the cock.

 

 

Bonding is a nesacary factor to breeding. I have had to split up pairs because they haven't got along.

 

 

I supply every morning to the breeding pair a mixture of Hulled oats, carrots and protien.

As the eggs hatch I will increase the level of Protien for the parents to feed the chicks.

This mixture is removed every night and the remainder is feed to the birds in the flight.

 

When the chicks get to 24 days old.

I will start to give them a 3 inch piece of Millet in the nest to help them start to feed themselves.

 

From 28 days on wards the chicks will start to come out of the nest.

 

This is the time I make sure there is plenty of seed, millet, soft food and vegitables for the chicks.

I use celery, carrots, corn, snow pea sprouts and mung bean sprouts in the dishes for the chicks. The mix is given in the morning and removed in the afternoon in winter or lunch time in summer. The remainder is thrown away. It is not safe for the birds in the flight.

 

The chicks are weighed weekly to see if they are sustaining their weight. At 42 days old and all going well they are moved from the breeding cage.

 

To the nursery.

The nursery is a dual cage or stock cage that is 1200mm long 450mm high x 350mm deep.

It is set up the same as the breeding cage less the nest box. The capability of puting a devider in to make two cages is to make it easy to weigh and check the chicks for progress every week for a month.

The chicks are given a high level of protein and vegitables every day.

 

At the age of 3 months the chicks start to moult. Moulting Aid can be given and the chick can be observed.

After the moult has finished the chick can be transfered to the flight.

 

The chicks are still feed with vegitables and are closely monitored.

 

I keep all recordes of the condition of the eggs through to the chicks in the flight on two programes.

Bird Tracker and The Budgerigar Program

 

Be prepared for the worst and you will do well. read up on the proceedure. I recommend the Master Breeder for information on Breeding. Join a club and get information from the ones that are experienced in breeding.

 

 

EDIT:... Since I did this post I have updated my Aviary.. Link.

Edited March 22, 200718 yr by Daz

this is extremely helpful, thank-you Daz

That was some GOOD STUFF. THANKYOU

Thats really good info Daz . Is "master breeder" a book? I can't open the link. Please can you tell me the writer, maybe I can order it. I'm looking for a good book. Thanks a lot

http://www.masterbreeder.co.uk/

 

Try the link above Zebra it's a web page with HEAPS of info.

okay, thanks Nerwen. Cool it's on-line - it saves me some money

Sorry all they moved the site on the Master Breeder since I posted that one. Nerwens is correct and I edited the link in the original post.

Great read Daz, that will help all of us eventually.

 

Don't suppose you want to do a write-up on how to build those lovely cages of yours?

Edited March 22, 200718 yr by VippiN

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

 

Hi Daz.

 

I think i have mis understood this post... You soaked the BREEDING CAGE in breeding aid ... Or their food...

 

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

 

Hi Daz.

 

I think i have mis understood this post... You soaked the BREEDING CAGE in breeding aid ... Or their food...

 

 

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

 

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

 

Hi Daz.

 

I think i have mis understood this post... You soaked the BREEDING CAGE in breeding aid ... Or their food...

 

 

The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.

I thought so

added to FAQ section

Has Daz been nominated for Australian of the year??

 

Seriously mate, the posts that you write are so informative and helpful to a person that is thinking about starting up are a god send. People have to understand that this is where their love of budgies might take them in the future and if you arn't willing to put in alot of time and money you might not be ready to breed budgies. I'm not saying everyone will go out and build monumental avairies like yourself but they do need to consider the possibility that they will need to one day if they want to breed regularly and I think you do a wonderful job of showing people how to achieve that.

Thank you Daz, this is going to be so helpful for me when I start breeding and other people here too .

You welcome.. I don't think much has changed in my method but the aviary certainly has.

Daz what type of wood you use (plywood or plyboard) and what is the wood thickness, is it 0.5 inches.

I was just wondering as the hole in the nesting box is so high does the perch extend inside also? Do the birds land on the eggs and break them? I have noticed that traditional boxes the hole is much lower but I do see the logic about the chicks leaving early if it is too low. Is there a hollow inside for eggs to be laid in?

I was just wondering as the hole in the nesting box is so high does the perch extend inside also? Do the birds land on the eggs and break them? I have noticed that traditional boxes the hole is much lower but I do see the logic about the chicks leaving early if it is too low. Is there a hollow inside for eggs to be laid in?

Daz is no longer on, so I will answer for him as I use these nestboxes that daz made. I extend the perch inside. Without it the hens struggle to get out of the nestbox. I dont use concaves in mine ( I use kitty litter and pine shavings ) and I think Daz uses concaves in his. The hens do not land on the eggs and break them.

Edited November 1, 200816 yr by KAZ

quote]

Daz is no longer on, so I will answer for him as I use these nestboxes that daz made. I extend the perch inside. Without it the hens struggle to get out of the nestbox. I dont use concaves in mine ( I use kitty litter and pine shavings ) and I think Dav uses concaves in his. The hens do not land on the eggs and break them.

 

The ispection area for checking the chicks is it a sliding lid or sliding back or a door? Do you have a picture of this area. I am building one with Dave (my husband) later just want to give him a good desigh. I will post pics when I am done.

Thanks Kaz for your help.

quote]

Daz is no longer on, so I will answer for him as I use these nestboxes that daz made. I extend the perch inside. Without it the hens struggle to get out of the nestbox. I dont use concaves in mine ( I use kitty litter and pine shavings ) and I think Dav uses concaves in his. The hens do not land on the eggs and break them.

 

The ispection area for checking the chicks is it a sliding lid or sliding back or a door? Do you have a picture of this area. I am building one with Dave (my husband) later just want to give him a good desigh. I will post pics when I am done.

Thanks Kaz for your help.

The top section of door slides upwards.

 

 

Edited November 1, 200816 yr by KAZ

My nest are the same as Daz's also and I use I think 1inch thick pine wood for the false bottom which I make my concave which goes up the end where I peek so that when the hen jumps in she lands on flat wood not the concave where the eggs are.

 

I use a flap disc on a angle grinder to make my concave. works like a dream

My nest are the same as Daz's also and I use I think 1inch thick pine wood for the false bottom which I make my concave which goes up the end where I peek so that when the hen jumps in she lands on flat wood not the concave where the eggs are.

 

I use a flap disc on a angle grinder to make my concave. works like a dream

Any chance you could show how the flap disc works out ? Video or photos ?

Great thanks...Dave is a cabinet maker and I thought he had lots of ply but its all craftwood, damn! Getting started now thanks for your quick reply!

 

Top view, sliding lid to peep inside at little chickies and eggs!

Measurements of boxes are same as Daz (250mm high, 215mm deep, 210mm wide) but these are inside measurements. These cost nothing to make except for time as we just used up materials that we already had! Good because it is 45 mins to the nearest hardware store! I wanted to make 5 but only had material for 4 but I don't want the first time breeding to be too overwhelming so thats o.k. I priced much smaller ready made boxes at the local pet shop for $10.90 each.

 

 

 

50MM speed bit for hole.

 

 

 

Perches in place with P.V.A. and wedges in place temporarily till P.V.A. sets. Perches were just some from the pet shop cut up and extend inside as much as you can see outside. I will attach them to the front of the cages I bought on ebay Ebay cages...

using cuphooks. Cages are due to arrive on Tuesday hopefully.

Edited November 1, 200816 yr by Trish

Very nice work and so fast !! You will have to watch the weight of them on the front of the cage, in case they tip over. May need to counter balance them with something.

 

 

 

PS you may want to edit...the hole is bigger than 12mm.

Edited November 1, 200816 yr by KAZ