Daz

Did you get any Budgie Starter from them Nerwen? Gary has some at Brendale.

Budgiefreak123 you have a budgerigar club in Bunderberg Budgerigar Society of Bundaberg Secretary: Shelley Williams Address: 34 McNeilly Street, Bundaberg 4670 Phone: (07) 4152 3001 e-mail: shelleywilliams34@msn.com Your main two Sites will be Australian National Budgerigar Council And South Queensland Budgerigar Breeders Association

I tried not marking eggs but it was a big problem. I throw out the eggs that are not fertile and knoowing which ones are laid when and are not fertile is impossible unless you mark them. Also when I foster eggs I need to know which egg is which. I have never had any issues with marking them. Here is my nest box card. You'll find it will print on a A5 paper.

No Nerwen you can add it to their soft food.

I would have liked to see some more food in his crop.

Hi Denise and welcome to the forum. I hope you like Spangles. As you all know I am colour blind (Blue Green Blindness) but the first picture is a double factor Spangle hen in the blue series with the Grey Green Cock.. Black eyed with an iris ring. The second Hen I can see is a red eye. So an Albion Hen. Am i right ?

Spangle opaline light green cock very nice. I like the width across the cere and specially the spots. Mask is a bit short and can't see his blow. I would guest that he is a bit older than 4 months. His spangle development loks more like 6 to 10 months. Does he have a breeders ring?

Not going into comment on colouring, (been done) but a very good example in the last photo of the correct way to hold not only a chick but any bird of this size.

Budgerigar Program. I have given up on running two Programs. I find the only draw back is that one can't easily and quickly tell the birds age. It gives you the hatch date but you have to calculate the age your self. I have spoken to Jeff Stone regarding this and he told me he will look into it for a future upgrade.

Information on F10ss Disinfectant

I have had a few this year. All except two have grown all their feathers back. Out of the two that haven't one has grown all except the tail feathers and the other is only 2 months old. The last batch I have decided to try something. There is two lines of thought. 1. It is a mite that gets into the feather folicales. 2. It is a virus that effects the birds. So with these two in mind I have started spraying with F10ss a disinfectant for a virus. This is done every morning into the breeding cages, flights and general bird room. When the chicks start to feather up I spray the wing buts and tail every week. I also spray A.I.L. onto the Wing Buts and tail in the middle of the week. The last few clutches has had no FM. So i'll continue to do this.

okay to answer the main question is that all mutation mutated from normal green birds. Including the pieds. Something went wrong in the genetic make up and a new variety was evolved. It is possible to get pieds from normal birds but not probible. There is two different birds here in this discussion. 1. Dominant Pieds. One bird must be a dominant pied to get dominant pied offsprings. Dominant Pied Pairings Expectations Dominant Pied (sf)× Normal = 50% Dominant Pied (sf) 50% Normal Dominant Pied (df) × Normal = 100% Dominant Pied (sf) Dominant Pied (sf) × Dominant Pied (sf) = 25% Normal 50% Dominant Pied (sf) 25% Dominant Pied (df) Dominant Pied (sf) ×Dominant Pied (df) = 50% Dominant Pied (sf) 50% Dominant Pied (df) Dominant Pied (df) × Dominant Pied (df) = 100% Dominant Pied (df) 2. Recessive Pieds. Both birds must be either split recessive or recessive to get recessive pied offspring. Recessive Pied Pairings Expectations Recessive Pied × Normal = 100% Normal / Recessive Pied Recessive Pied × Normal / Recessive Pied = 50% Normal / Recessive Pied 50% Recessive Pied Recessive Pied × Recessive Pied = 100% Recessive Pied Normal / Recessive Pied ×Normal / Recessive Pied = 25% Recessive Pied 50% Normal / Recessive Pied 25% Normal Normal / Recessive Pied × Normal = 50% Normal / Recessive Pied 50% Normal / = split (not being shown) Hope this helps.

At 3 weeks, i'd remove any pairs that didn't have eggs and let fly for a couple of weeks. If you have another hen that could mate with the cock then wait a week and try that pair, but give the first hen a rest for a few weeks.

French Moult usually only effects the feathers. They can make great Pets as they are easier to tame. Don't worry about their health they are as healthy as any bird.

.... the obvious question Kaz is when is the next nestfeather show :hap:

I don't know much about spangles but I agree with Bea and Nerwen.

Oh by the way she looks like a Cinnamon Dominant pied. Approx 6 to 10 months old.

Yes I am curious too ? Ino to ino doesn't mean small birds. Not in 1 generation anyway. It would also depend on the relationship. It could mean larger birds too.

It's all happening in the west :yellowhead:

Well that is right with all sex linked genes. But with an Albino you need the blue. The ino gene removes all colour except the yellow. The blue gene removed the yellow. On exception to this is the lacewings. The Cinnamon colouring caused by the gene with still show through. On The topic of Lacewing. I believe that it is a gene that a birds can be split to like the Clearbody. It is not just an ino and a cinnamon togeather. I think I put up some where the pairs for this.

All the hens will be Cinamon Opalines The Cocks will be split for bot cinnamon and opaline. As Macka said 50% green and 50% Grey Green

The advice the pet shop gave it good advice. All birds bought from pet shops and breeders should be wormed two weeks after getting them and then every 3 months.

... great advice Macka.

...just to mention that no Budgie is split for Albino. Albino is not a gene it is a composite of the blue gene and the ino gene. If you get an Albino from a green birds then odds are that the cock is split ino and both birds are split blue.

Very Nice Kaz... The name suits her Very majestic