Daz

Very good idea.. I might try that. I use a Fostner Bit first. Then i use a flap sander. The concaves come out great.

Derek and yourself , among others, prompted it.

TRYING TO BREED BIRDS BETTER THAN YOU'VE EVER BRED BEFORE by Alf Ormerod, U.K. It is very hard to get to the top in any walk of life, and this is certainly the case as far as Breeding and Exhibiting Budgerigars is concerned. However, if a Novice or Beginner realises that there are plenty of headaches to be surmounted, and he or she does not try to make progress too quickly they cannot but find enjoyment in this hobby. By this, I would not like Beginners to feel that they should not aim their sights at the top of the tree. Anyone with ambition will want to climb through the sections until he or she becomes a Champion. This is as it should be. The way one makes a start in the fancy usually has a great bearing on later years. It is best to make progress slowly, rather than rush into buying stock and equipment and find out later that it would have been wiser to have first sought advice and gone about it in a totally different way. At Club meetings, one often hears it said that the ordinary working chap has no hope of getting to the top unless he wins the pools but many of us had only limited means when we started. The fancier who is interested in breeding exhibition budgerigars must limit and control the colours and varieties he keeps so that he knows what to expect from his pairings and also how to select the best mate for each bird. Beginners often ask me "which colours are best for them to start with?" This is a difficult question, as none of us see things exactly alike. A colour that appeals to one person may not suit another and this is how it should be otherwise new varieties would never improve. My advice therefore, is to visit one or two big shows. In this way you can study the various colours and especially those that are winning major awards. Then make your own choice. In the past a lot has been written about breeding budgerigars. Many Beginners get the impression that all they need to do is buy birds, cages and equipment and then start booking orders for their young ones. I do agree that breeding pet birds is easier than building up a top class exhibition team. The better however the quality, the more difficult it becomes to maintain it and produce big winners regularly. To me this is what makes the hobby a challenge. Try always to breed a bird better than you've ever bred before. It is quality one must aim for first, not quantity. This is what counts and yet one must not lose sight of the fertility potential of your stock or else you very soon have good looking birds that cannot produce their like. VITAL SHOW POINTS How do I start my breeding season? First of all, during the show season, I am always on the look out for new 'blood' birds that carry certain good points. They are not necessarily class or special award winners. They just have the Vital Show Points one needs - you must never be satisfied with your stock. In most cases when one gets to the top, the birds you fancy can't be bought at any price, but sometimes you can gain your objectives by making an exchange. Many years ago I exchanged three very good birds to get the one I wanted. Financially I was well out of pocket, but that was a move I never regretted. By the end of October I have more or less planned my pairings and these are put down on paper. It makes it a lot easier when pairing day comes, rather than having to study each bird with its pedigree at the same time. I select the best hens of each colour - good hens are essential for success, but they must have a good pedigree as well as looks. I am always dubious about using a good hen from poor stock as in general they breed youngsters like their background. Next I select the cocks. If a hen has any feature I want to improve, then I find a cock which excels in that point, but of course they must be compatible in colour and pedigree for the mating to be a success. I never put any pairs together just for the sake of breeding youngsters. The object is to improve all the time and if I don't think a pair can achieve that, it is a waste of time and seed. I won't go into the subject of early and late breeding, as budgerigars will breed at any time if they are in condition and you make arrangements to meet their needs such as extra light etc. As our closed rings are issued on January 1st, and I agree with this, most of us pair-up to have chicks ready for ringing by that date. However, for the first four or five years, there has been a change in our birds in the U.K. I don't know if it is the weather, but we never used to get so many birds absent at the B.S. Club Show because of moulting, as we do today. A bird can be in a slight moult, yet be in breeding condition and will do well, but if it is a heavy moult you are taking a chance. Unfortunately, many of us do this, come the end of November, and regret it later. For the past few years I have been doing the same as the Americans. They put some pairs together in August and September when they always do well. The young develop very well and are good enough to compete at the early shows the following year. SOME HENS DO NOT HAVE BROWN CERES! It is written that if a hen does not have good brown cere she is not ready for breeding. I don't fully agree with this as some hens vary. I used to have a good family of Opalines and when the hens were in peak breeding condition their ceres went milky white and only turned to brown after breeding. It is a case of knowing your birds and knowing when they are ready. This comes easily as one gets more experienced, but I am always doubtful about a cock that hasn't a good blue cere as they very rarely fertilize. Having put the pairs together, I like to stay in the birdroom for a while and watch points. For this reason I advise the working fancier to pair up at the weekend so that he has more time to spare to observe if any cases of serious fighting break out. After a few hours you can generally tell if things are going to be alright, but even so one can never be certain. Make sure, if your are using cages that divide up by the use of slides, that these are a good fit and are secure Some birds want to pay more attention to what is next door and if a slide is loose they can force a way through. By the time you get home from work you may have a dead or badly injured bird on your hands. If I am using birds that have been used in previous years, but have been given new partners, I arrange these birds as far away from each other as possible. Even so you will often find them calling to each other for a few days before they settle to their new partners. Some however, won't give in and you have eventually to put them back together or remove one bird out of earshot. Some pairs will fight, then feed and mate and all goes well, but when you have a pair that both want to be boss and are constantly fighting it is unwise to leave them together. When eggs start to be laid, a fight in the nest box means eggs get broken. In this case, I remove the cock after the hen starts laying and I put him with her for a short spell while I am in the birdroom. In this way, he will tread and you get fertile eggs. You can leave the hen to sit and rear on her own and then when she is due to start laying again, re-introduce the cock, as before, for a short spell each day. If they appear to have got over their difference you can take a chance if you wish, but as a safety measure take the eggs away as they are laid and give her a clear egg each time to sit on. Mark the eggs you remove and put them under other pairs. If all has settled down, you can if you wish, return to the hen her own clutch of eggs. NEST BOXES - IMPORTANT? Some of us have different methods of pairing up. Personally I put the hens into the cages where they are going to breed first and they are left there for a few days before the cock is introduced. Three days later I put up the nest box. If I put up the box, when pairing, I find some hens go straight in and the cock never gets a chance to tread properly. This can lead to fighting in the box. Nest boxes can play a big part in successful reproduction, especially when the hens are not of your own breeding. Some hens won't entertain the box of your choice, others don't worry. As a guide, when you buy your hens, enquire from the seller which design of box he uses and whether it is placed inside or outside the breeding cage? If, subsequently, the hen won't conform to your plans you can then change the box design. Before putting up the nest boxes I sprinkle insect powder under each concave as a precaution against mite. I then add a good handful of coarse sawdust, medicated or sterilised. If you use sawdust straight from a mill and the wood had been pre-treated you risk losing hens as the box gets warm from the sitting hen. The sawdust will give off fumes which enter the hen's body. I, and many others have lost good hens in this way. Some hens do not like the sawdust and will throw it out, which doesn't matter, but I always like to make sure that the niches between the concave and the box are filled with sawdust. This is because, some hens, or youngster, can easily get their claws caught and permanent damage can be done. Make sure that perches are a good tight fit, as loose perches can ruin all attempts at copulating. My feeding methods are simple, but I ensure that I get the best possible seed. It is the cheapest in the long run. I use a medium sized canary and pearl white millet only. This is fed in separate pots because this saves waste. The birds don't scatter it as they do when offered a mixture. Off and on, all through the year, I mix Scotts Emulsion in with the canary seed at the rate of approximately one teaspoon per pound of seed. This is allowed to soak in for a day before being used. The emulsion helps prevent egg binding. I also feed dry oats, and mung beans that have soaked, but they are also a good tonic. I also use Kilpatricks' Pigeon minerals. This is a mixture of granulated charcoal, rock salt and herbs. I appreciate this product may not be on sale overseas, but charcoal will be obtainable and it is known to be very good for all livestock, including racehorses and dogs. The wild bird will fly many miles to where there has been a forest fire in order to 'bathe' in the embers and eat the burnt wood. Cuttlefish bone and very old lime mortar is always available and these are needed for calcium. If cuttlefish bone is gathered from the sea shore, make sure it is well washed and dried in the open air. Check that it hasn't been in contact with any oil and this also applies to sand and gravel from the beach should you use this for cage floors. DRINKING WATER In the drinking water I use various tonics. Since brand names vary around the World, I will state that the vitamins needed for good health are A, B, C, D, E and K. If you go to a chemist you can buy various mixtures that contain all of these and in general they are sold for human babies. If any hens have not laid two weeks after the nest boxes have been put up, look out for a heavy swelling at the vent, since the hen could be laying inwardly. This is now happening a lot more than it used to, even in young hens that have never laid an egg. If such a hen is left in the breeding cage, the lump gets bigger and bigger and she will die. If you take her away from the nest box, she will recover, but she is generally finished for breeding. I have known some hens that after twelve months exercise, will eventually lay a few eggs, so if it is a really good hen it is worth a try. Some hens will not offer to go to nest with one cock, but will with a different partner. Some cocks can be seemingly infertile with one hen even though they have been mating, but will breed well with a new mate. During the sitting and feeding period, watch your hens for any swollen legs, caused by being inactive. Another cause is sawdust that gets trapped between the leg and the ring which sets up inflammation. Try to move the ring round and then dip the foot and the leg into white iodine (this doesn't stain as badly as the normal iodine) or witch hazel. I find an egg cup is ideal for this process. Fill the egg cup and put the foot and leg in for a couple of minutes, then put the bird back in the breeding cage. Do this a couple of times a day, but if there is no eventual improvement you must remove the ring. This is not easy if you haven't done it before, or you haven't the right tools. In this situation I would advise the Beginner to seek help from a more experienced breeder. Do not be afraid of inspecting your nest boxes. Get the hens used to you doing so before they have laid. From the time I first put up the box, I make a regular habit of looking in every day. This process lets the hen realise she is in no danger and then when she starts sitting and you open the box, she is not scared and she doesn't scatter the eggs. All my hens, whilst sitting and feeding, just walk gently out of the box when I wish to check the eggs or ring the chicks. It is not necessary to use heaters in your breeding room, (we couldn't afford it when I was younger), but now I have one for my own comfort. If you do use heat, make sure you keep your humidity correct, either with a humidifier, or containers of water near the heaters. If the latter, make sure it is covered by wire mesh so that if a bird escapes from a cage it does not fall into the water and drown. If your humidity is not good, you will have problems from dead-in-shell since the 'skin' inside the egg becomes tough and the chick can't hatch properly. Always remember that when things go wrong it isn't always the birds which are to blame. Ninety per cent of the time it is your management that is at fault.

TRIMMING VENTS by KELWYN KAKOSCHKE, AUSTRALIA The purpose of trimming vents is to remove the bigger feathers, which may get in the way during mating resulting in infertile eggs. The technique in Australia was first used on Jacobean pigeons which have so much feather that they can't be bred unless you do this. THE TECHNIQUE Firstly hold the bird with the cheek patches extended under the little finger, place the bird so that it is upside down, making sure it only bites your clothing and nothing else. Place your thumb carefully over the vent, parting the fine feathers until you find the vent itself. Place your thumb actually on the vent and trim around your thumb with a sharp pair of scissors. This way you can't accidently cut the bird on the vent without cutting yourself first, so don't worry if you see blood because it must be your own. We trim both hens and cocks but whilst you may remove all the feather from the hen it is most important that on the cock bird you leave the little feathers which radiate around the vent, these are the "sperm guide feathers". This way you remove all the feathers which may come between the cock and hen when mating. THE REASON WHY A show bird these days can't be short behind the leg, in the old days although the birds were big they were all short and cut off behind the vent. Nowadays with that nice carrot shape and all the other desirable features you need to select the correct feather. A good show bird is carrying maybe twice as much feather especially around the vent than they did 10 years ago. The problem is that by achieving a better bird you create further difficulties. IT'S THE AUSSIE WAY I've been doing it for 10 to 15 years in fact I think everybody in Australia does it now especially with the bigger birds. By KELWYN KAKOSCHKE

french moutl theories

Always remember that when things go wrong it isn't always the birds which are to blame. Ninety per cent of the time it is your management that is at fault. What are you trying to do Breed better birds?

THE PROFESSIONAL AVIARY There will be many readers who are newcomers to the hobby and who are contemplating the construction of an aviary to suit their needs. Most inexperienced fanciers select a corner of their land to build their proposed aviary, putting their own personal ideas before that of their stock. The purpose of this article is to elaborate on the pitfalls that one can encounter and simultaneously to give every fancier the opportunity to build a professional aviary that suits both the owner and his birds. THE MODEL AVIARY Some years ago, Cyril Saunders who lived in Cheam, Surrey, U.K. decided to build such an establishment. He went to considerable efforts to learn all he could about aviary construction and with the help of a close friend, build, what we consider is the Model Aviary for the average budgerigar fancier. Measuring only 18 feet by 14 feet (5.4 m by 4.3 m) and taking up a total area of just over 250 square feet (23 sq. metres) this aviary can be sited in most gardens and can be orientated correctly to benefit the stock when it comes to the breeding season. TOWN AND COUNTRY PLANNING ACT In the United Kingdom we are governed by a Town and Country Planning Act. Other countries will have similar Acts, which the Local Councils implement. In Britain, owners of freehold property are strongly advised to approach their Local Authority if they are contemplating the erection of a structure such as we are describing. It is essential, to protect yourself against the bureaucratic attitude of the odd official, that you request them to examine the Act which is in order at that moment in time. Some Authorities seem to "feel" you must comply with Planning and Building Regulations whereas the Act, currently in operation, states clearly that the keeping of birds does not require Planning Permission as it is within the permitted use classes of the General Development Order, ancillary to the enjoyment of the dwelling house. Building Regulations are obligatory, but are very easy to comply with. The principal requirements concern the siting of the aviary relative to your plot boundary and that you ensure you have a half an hour fire resistant lining to the aviary. Should you site the aviary right on your boundary line, the rear of the structure will have to be asbestolux or the equivalent. If it is sited away from the boundary line the Local Authority will permit a wooden exterior all round, subject to the areas of the rear face and ends. These areas stipulate the proximity of the aviary to the land lines when the use of wood is desired. A COSY AVIARY The "Saunders" Aviary was build in 1974. It is constructed of wood and thermalite (breeze) blocks. It is so designed that it is compact, easily maintained, can house up to 220 birds and is totally vermin proof. Lastly it is very cosy, which not all aviaries are by any means. A cosy aviary means the fancier is induced to do his entire bird husbandry properly instead of a quick dash round the stock once a day. The accompanying drawings and photograph speak for themselves. Should you wish to make a larger aviary then there is no problem to scale up the extra size and increase the illustrated fifteen breeding cages to the number you require. The main features of this particular unit are the ease with which it is cleaned. Every part of the aviary, in the interior section, which is exposed to the birds themselves, has been Formica covered. No destructive chewing by the birds is possible, with the exception, of course, of the perches and the interior nest boxes. The aspect of the aviary is all important. It is generally felt that if it can be arranged to face south or west, these aspects are preferable to those, which are obliged to face north and east. On the other hand, do be careful not to have large windows - it is very easy to create a "greenhouse" by doing so, which is not desirable in the summer months. Obviously there is no substitute for a concrete base for the main birdroom. If this can be arranged it is vermin proof and if a thin screed of finer concrete is laid over the main layer, this will be perfect on which to lay floor tiles. In the case of Cyril Saunders, he elected to mount his main room on to brick piers and lay very heavy floor timbers across them. The resulting gap underneath could be a vermin trap, so these gaps are protected with heavy duty wire mesh cemented into the ground, the cement having had ground glass mixed in with it beforehand. VENTILATION IS VITAL Ventilation is vital in a birdroom otherwise diseases can be a problem. In general there should be ventilation apertures placed low on the rear face of the birdroom and complementary ones placed high on the front face. This allows a displacement of foul air throughout the room. You can also include louvre windows, such as those in the Saunders aviary. "These have been well worth initial expense since I can control all the extremes of temperature quite easily", said Cyril. He has also included an extractor fan which he finds essential to put in use when "cleaning out" is in progress. As a chest sufferer, the created feather dust can be devastating to him. His particular unit is placed in the roof of the aviary with the control unit nearby. Do remember however, these extractors take out the heat as well as the dusty air. One might ask, does the Saunders aviary lack anything at all? The answer is yes, it does. Most definitely it lacks a water supply, a sink and drainage board and a suitable soakaway. This could easily be fitted into this scheme, sacrificing one of the seed bins. Today, however much it costs initially, the expense of fitting a sink, etc. would always be appreciated. Water is on hand and your utensils can always be washed on site, instead of in the house kitchen. Do remember your pipes have to be laid below the frost level at a depth of 18 inches. This is a requirement by most Water Authorities. ELECTRICITY A MUST A source of electricity is of course a must. This had to operate not only the artificial lighting, but the various appliances associated with the hobby. These will include dimmer units, black tubular heating, an incubator perhaps, a winnowing machine, a hospital cage or an infra red lamp(s) and so on. You must install a mains fuse box in the aviary from which your power and lighting wires emanate. Extra refinements can include an intercom between the aviary and the house, just to speak to your spouse occasionally, and a telephone. It is not the purpose of this article to give you the step by step building of the aviary and cages. It is designed to put ideas into your mind which you now know suit both you and your expensive stock. Given this "Saunders" aviary, you are more than halfway down the road to success. Budgerigars will breed very successfully in such an establishment and once this heavy initial outlay has been passed, you can undoubtedly begin to enjoy the hobby to its fullest capacity. From The Budgerigar World.

Exactly right Elly. Birds don't like Drafts, Wet, quick changes in temperature. I have seen aviaries with snow around them.. But remember birds have been brought up in these conditions. A bird going from Hobart to Cairns in Australia would not do well. and Visa Versa.

Thanks Ravengypsy Update time.. We are on schedule. I picked up the Cage fronts on Sunday. 22 of them. The person making them through in two extra because two didn't come up to his standard. I realy couldn't tell the difference. They all looked great. Cost for the "20" cage fronts $300.00au (2 for free) I have arranged the 16mm Melamine. 6 sheets of 398mm x 2400mm 8 sheets of 445mm x 2400mm. Cost unedged is $210.00au. I have changed the design slightly. Instead of 8 cabinet is one bank, i'll have 2 banks of 4. It will be easier to carry them. Melamine is heavy. I have decided to make these 2 banks first. I'll start on Saturday. I'll be taking Photos of the progress to let every one see how I do it. I still need to arrange the trays and perches. The Perches will be made out of 19mm hardwood. Cut square. The other will be 18mm round dowel. The Difference is for exercising the feet and for mating. I am also thinking about a perch for the chicks after they come out of the nest.

Budgerigars need not be kept "Warm" so long as the temperature doesn't fluctuate greatly of get extreamly high or low, they will do fine. One thing we do do wrong is to take the birds in to air conditioning when it's hot out side or to take them into a heated room when it's cold. The sudden change is what causes them grief In england the saying goes that if the drinkers don't freeze they will do fine. Now saying that, it is better for the keeper to be kept "Warm" when attending to the birds.

You might indeed

bgv is the club Could it be BCV which is the Budgerigar Council of Victoria. tas is the breeder. Could be from partnership of Plunkett & Tasi who are from Victoria. National Winning Budgerigars. I use there Water Management system 05 is the year 020 is the ring number.

REDUCING CHICK MORTALITY by Terry A. Tuxford For most Budgerigar breeders the first red streak indicating fertility in a clutch of eggs is an encouraging start to the breeding season. When the first chicks begin to hatch on schedule and at regular intervals we really believe we are getting somewhere. From January through to April each year in the UK and at similar intervals, though different months, throughout the world, the first questions and answers exchanged between fanciers relate to the numbers rung, with individuals measuring their success and progress more on numbers bred than any other criteria. Those with failing numbers will seek advice from others having a "good season" with questions relating to temperature, light, humidity, feed and a multitude of other subjects, in an attempt to identify the secret to success - this year. While we all recognise that at the end of the day it is quality that will outweigh quantity it is still most re-assuring to know that, "I've rung 143 chicks, while old Sid at the Club has only rung 7". One of the most frustrating occurrences which we all experience during the breeding season is to reduce last evenings "success rate" due to the untimely loss of chicks at various ages. We all pair up with the aim to improve our stock and to breed Best In Show at our countries major events and for all we know that small squashed dead chick was in fact just that bird. Reasons For Chicks Dying The reason why chicks die are many and varied and an example of some of them are: * Chicks being crushed by the hen sitting too tight. This in reality is quite a rare occurrence and the discovery of a flattened chick is not necessarily the fault of the hen. More often than not the chick has died from another cause and has been flattened after death. * Chicks not being fed soon after hatching. This problem can occur with maiden hens not being sure what to do. Another cause is hens out of condition and not being in their correct breeding cycle. With maiden hens many breeders give then a three or four day old chick after their first chick has hatched. This youngster will be far more persistent in its cry for food, which the hen will usually respond to. For out of condition hens the only remedy is to foster the young. * Suffocation by the hen may occur with day old chicks when a cold spell forces her to sit tighter or if there is no other eggs or chicks to keep her up. The fostering of an older chick will not only encourage feeding as previously mentioned but also raise her a little and allow air circulation. * Genetic weakness, although rare, can be the cause of total chick mortality for which there is no remedy other than to re-pair the parents with new partners. * Poisoning resulting from feeding sour soft food or rancid soak seed is the sole fault of the breeder and although it happens, it never should. * Chills can be the cause of death in chicks and may result at the time of ringing. It is important that the breeder has warm hands and the chick is out of the nest box for a minimum amount of time. * Pneumonia may occur in wet nest boxes. Sawdust should be added to soak up some of the moisture and changed at regular intervals. * Chicks are sometimes found with inflated crops due to an incorrect feeding technique adopted by the hen. To deflate the crop one can either lay the chick on its back and gently force the air from the crop with the fingers or conversely the crop can be punctured with a sterilised needle. If the hen does not get the feeding method correct the best course of action is to transfer the chick to a nest with chicks of a similar age. * Inexperienced hens will sometimes feed the youngest chick on neat seed rather than crop milk. Of course the youngster will not be able to cope with this and die. Not much can be done to prevent this, other than to transfer, if it is a re-occurring problem. * Feather plucking can be a real problem and although death seldom results the outcome very often leaves the chicks unsuitable for exhibiting due to permanent feather loss. Feather plucking can be hereditary and if you suspect this, you should attempt to eradicate it from your stud with all haste. Another cause for this problem is boredom and many breeders put millet sprays into the nest box to give the hen something to do, other than looking after the chicks. It is also suggested that feather plucking can be an over attentive mother. My experience is that the cock bird can also be at fault. If it is not the cock and the chicks are fairly well feathered they may be removed from the nest box onto the cage floor for the cock to feed them. If they are not very well feathered it is best to try and foster them to another nest. If fostering is not possible you can try Anti-peck Spray, which is in an aerosol. The danger of this is that it reduces the body temperature of the chick by up to 10 degrees, which in itself may cause stress and eventual death. Some breeders rub Nivea cream in liberal quantities on to the afflicted youngster. This list is by no means conclusive and the most effective way to reduce chick mortality is to be ever observant and watch for unexpected occurrences. With this in mind plus one of my earlier suggestions, hopefully all your chicks will survive and enable you to fulfil your ambitions. by Terry Tuxford

IS THERE A BREEDING SEASON? by Terry A Tuxford On a re-occurring basis over many years, the question of the ring issue date in relationship to when our birds are most inclined to wish to reproduce is discussed, and often most passionately by an assortment of respected breeders. Most of these fanciers relate their own experiences, and something that most of us are guilty of, their opinions. The only problem with relating an opinion it that it is just that, an opinion, and usually not founded on any scientific proof. As time goes by, and education becomes more advanced and sophisticated, I am sure that future generations of Budgerigar Fancier will be less inclined to accept opinion and will want hard evidence to base their practices upon. The reason for this is that, believe it or not, opinions given on subjects such as live stock management by 'laymen' are very often wrong. Scientific Evidence The reason for these opening statements is not intended in any way to decry the successful breeder and exhibitor of Budgerigars whose success is based largely upon a natural ability with livestock because, I believe that with this type of person, they would be successful with whatever animal, bird or fish they chose to breed. Nor is it to suppress opinion because I also accept that great teachings often stem from opinion that is later formulated into fact. My main purpose is to encourage all of you to record your results in such a manner that perhaps one day they can be used for the betterment of the hobby. An example of this, and in connection with the breeding season, was brought to me some time ago by John Evans who lives in Netley Abbey. John breeds his budgerigars all the year round and only uses 6 cages, which gives good control for recording information. Pairs are selected on the basis that when they are in breeding condition they are placed in breeding cages as and when a cage becomes available, irrespective of the time of year. Over a period of 9 years he recorded his results on a month by month basis, logging chicks hatched in each period and his results showed that there was very little difference between one month and the next. The only anomalies experienced were in December through to March and can be explained by the fact that he attempts, like many of us, to get more chicks early in the year with the new years rings upon them. As for a low in August, this is when John goes on his holiday. Taking his information there appears to be no significant difference between the number of eggs hatched in any month and from this John concluded that his birds do not have a breeding season. So now we have it, documented proof that Budgerigars are not seasonal breeders, unless of course you have something that tells us different! By Terry Tuxford

I like the chick. Very Nice.

What was the parents?

If you want Ikon I can design your Breeding Cabinets on to PDF for you to arrange.

As many of you know, I am replacing my breeding cabinets. I thought id do a pictorial of how I do them and try to explain why I do some of the thing I do. The very first thing is to measure up the area that I am going to put them in. These cages are to be replaced. The distance is 1850mm. I then consider the configurations. I should be able to have 3 across with a rough width of 600mm. Thats good. The over all height is 2000mm. I have a 200mm stand they go on which will keep the bottom cages off the ground. That gives me 1800mm to work with. I'd like to have 4 high which will give the cages approximately 450 high. Thats good. Since I have decided on 16mm Malimine for the construction I all ready know that it will be heavy. As this is the case I will make the cages in two sections. 3 cages wide and two high. I now draw the cages. I luckily have access to AudoCAD 2004 on the company computer. Now the drawing is made to scale I can work out the Cage fronts. I want 10mm clearance on the side and top but only want 10mm between the cage fronts so I can slide a divider to make individual cages or remove them to have holding cages. I know the area of the cage fronts should be 387 x 596 max. So I can use this to draw the cage front. So know I have the "Idea" of the cage front. I have a friend that can make the wire fronts so have commissioned him to do these. This area is a bit larger and I can make the breeding cabinet a bit larger to suit. I am going to have 8 breeding cabinet is this area and find that they can be 1300in total width with an overall height of 1800mm as well. As they are not too big, I'll make them in one piece. Again I drawing the cabinets to scale. I find that the cage fronts are going to be larger than before. They will be 626mm x 393mm. So to make life easy, I make all 20 cage fronts this size. It is easier to cut down than to increase. Currently the cage fronts have been ordered and I should be picking them up tomorrow. So next weekend i'll will start the construction. Here is what It might look like. These are some breeding cages I was commissioned to do last year. These were made from exterior 12mm ply.

No it's not good to breed them while they are moulting.. It is good to give them breeding aid or increase their protein intake.

Crop Stasis or 'Sour Crop' In Birds Disclaimer Crop stasis is a disorder of unweaned or handfed baby birds. It is due to the failure of the crop to empty of food resulting in the fermentation of food. This leads to secondary yeast (especially Candida) and bacterial infections and while not usually fatal when treated early, crop infections can be serious. Sour crop is another term for crop infection. * What causes crop stasis? * How is crop stasis diagnosed? * What is the treatment for crop stasis? * Related Products * Related Stories What causes crop stasis? Top Crop stasis is usually due to incorrect feeding habits or overfeeding, poor hygiene, or a primary viral infection. Incorrect feeding habits include excessively hot or cold food and insufficient fluids leading to dehydration. Environmental stress can contribute to the problem such as temperature and humidity, or strong light. Other crop problems that can occur include crop burns (from feeding overheated formula), crop lacerations (from incorrect feeding technique), and entrapment of foreign objects in the crop. How is crop stasis diagnosed? Top Regurgitation of crop contents and loss of appetite in young birds is suggestive of crop stasis and infections. Crop samples are examined to look for secondary infections that require treatment. What is the treatment for crop stasis? Top Crop stasis is a serious, life-threatening condition and treatment by an avian veterinarian is required. Treatment consists of emptying the crop using a crop needle, flushing with sterile saline and giving appropriate antibiotic or antifungal medication. Dehydration is corrected by giving fluids, and the bird is kept warm. Feeding is resumed with a more watery formula to allow gut activity to resume. A low residue, high energy diet such as Poly-Aid (Vetafarm) may be used. Once the crop is emptying normally, a good quality hand-rearing food can be introduced, such as Vetafarm Hand-rearing Foods. Sometimes crop impaction occurs with a ball of food lodged in the crop. Fluid is introduced into the crop and the impaction massaged to break it up. Impactions that cannot be dislodged in this way, crop burns, lacerations, and entrapment of foreign objects in the crop may require a combination of medical and surgical therapy. Crop Stais is a true emergency so it is important to seek help from your avian vet immediately. From World of Petcare

Plum eyes belong to a fallow but the rest is a bit strange.

Welcome to the forum. Your just up the road from Karen and over the hill from me. :sad:

Hi Derek I have that one it's from Ken York. It is very good. I have down loaded it from the cd to the hard drive for quicker access.

It's one of those personnal things. I use clean wood shavings and as Kaz said the hen usually throws it out. I replenish mine after the chicks are hatch out and between rounds.

As far as pulling the feathers, I'd leave them for nature to regrow.