Daz

I wonder if there is a posionous type???? Toxic Plants - EUCALYPTUS (DRIED, DYED OR TREATED IN FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS) Safe Plants - EUCALYPTUS Safe and Toxic Plants

Thats a good question. I know that Koalas only eat a few types of gum leaves. (as Lin posted). I have been trying mine on a loacal tree and they seem to like it. I have been feeding them for a few weeks with no problems. ... But I don't know the type. I will try to find out and post it.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Please ask any questions you have. Members such as Pixie ...and others have a great kowledge of budgies and are willing to help.

You are appsolutly corect pixie in every point. It is crazy to expect that some one in another country would have the resorces or the money to give them the diet that they are acostomed to. My Home This is where I live. The trees at the back of the photo are gum (Eucalyptus) Trees. Yes they are tall and take a long time to grow, I was actually making the point that conditions change and that what is right and easy for one person in one country is not always possible to others. We must alway take that into consideration in an International Forum like this. Fruit and vegatiables were not on the list for the wild budgerigar and so in many countries they had to find a way to still give the nutriants that the birds need to be healthy and survive. That is where the fruit and vegatables came in, as an alternative. It would be narrow minded of me to be serious with my last statment.

Good advice Xsaga and welcome to the forum. For those that don't know. Mega is the old term for the desease. It is now refered to as Avain Gastric Yeast desease or AGY Treatment Attempts at treating birds affected by AGY have met with limited success. Traditional antibacterial drugs have no effect on AGY. Amphotericin B, a polyene macrolide antifungal drug, when administered orally (100 mg/kg twice daily) was found to be effective at ameliorating fecal shedding of AGY organisms in affected budgerigars. It is considered the standard for treating birds diagnosed with avian gastric mycosis. However, in a follow-up study, several treated birds were observed to return to fecal shedding, suggesting either that reinfection occurred or that therapy was incomplete. Treatment with amphotericin B is also complicated by the need for long-term administration, the cost of the drug and the difficulty of obtaining an oral formulation. Resistance of AGY to amphotericin B has been reported in a flock of budgerigars in Australia. Oral nystain and oral lactobacillus are treatments reportedly showing some degree of success; other studies, however, have found these therapies ineffective. Drug trials using novel antimicrobial agents are under way at Texas A&M University. One drug, fluconazole, has shown promise against AGY. Recently, chickens infected with AGY were administered fluconazole orally twice daily at a dosage of 100 mg/kg in a 4-week study. At the conclusion of this study, fluconazole demonstrated greater efficacy than amphotericin B at resolving AGY infection. However, neither drug attained 100 percent efficacy in its respective group. One possibility being explored is that drug therapy may need to continue for longer than 4 weeks. In the author's opinion, not all birds diagnosed with avian gastric mycosis require drug treatment. Given the uncertainty surrounding the gastrointestinal disease reportedly associated with colonization by AGY, it may not be productive or in the bird's (or the client's) best interest to subject the bird to prolonged therapy. Just as not all microorganisms detected on a fecal smear indicate the presence of disease, AGY may prove to be of little concern in an otherwise healthy bird. In the absence of clinical signs of ill health, consider forgoing drug therapy in favor of monitoring the patient for potential development of any of the clinical signs previously described, and repeat testing for the continued presence of AGY in the droppings. Prevention In light of difficulties of treating birds with AGY, the best way to deal with this organism is to prevent its introduction into the aviary. This requires repeated examination of fecal wet-mounts as previously described. If the organism is already there, then breaking the infection cycle is an alternate approach. We have shown hat cleaned, incubator-hatched eggs from AGY-positive adult budgerigars produce AGY-free offspring, if the birds are raised in isolation. This may prove a valuable way to interrupt the infection cycle in some aviaries. However, aviculturalists should be aware that we do not know whether environmental exposure of the organism can result in infection, and there is strong evidence for bird-to-bird transmission. Therefore, if the clean birds are not maintained in isolation, it is possible that they could be re-infected.

I agree with Lin. It takes so much out of the pair that you must let them rest. The hen can continue to produce eggs after the first Clutch but let her rest after the 2nd clutch. I would would also recomend some probotics for her and her mate to start the road to recovery.

I don't want to repeat someone in an other post regarding irresponsibility ...but I think it is irresponsible for someone to buy a budgie that doesn't give it the right diet. If you are going to buy a budgerigar, a bird that comes from Australia, you should look at feeding it it's natural diet. Wouldn't that be right Eterri? or would that be a double standard! One thing that Eucaliptus leaves give that friut and vegatables don't is an anticeptic. Which is a natural desease killer. Than may be why Karen's Dad's birds were so healthy. I think we can all learn from this. I for one will be adding more gum leaves into my aviary. I am sure you can find these plants at your nearest plant nursary.

To my eyes he looks like an opaline but there is something about the colour of his wings??? Can you post a larger photo?

Dingo I would prepare some hand feeding mixture just in case.

I hope so to Phoebe. Phoebe

Paul you have a grey male in one of the pictures. Do you have female grey or blue? I see the grey green hen. She would be good to breed the grey against but a blue will enhanse the colour. Best of luck. :bluebudgie:

Isn't that what I just said :ausb: Good luck Daz with greenie. :bluebudgie: um I got to read all the posts... Greeny laid her 2nd egg today. I also weighed Chime and Snowy to see if bluey was feeding them. Chime is 46 grams at 31 days and Snowy... :fear :fear is 51 grams at 29 days... Bluey and the new feed I am mixing is doing a good job.

1st of march I have as the hatch date. Let see if they are to plan :bluebudgie: Egg hatching calendar Greeny laid her first egg of her second round on Wednesday. 2nd should be today. :ausb:

Sorry Phoebe. Phoebe is going to a pet store on Saturday...I hope she will be okay.

Knowledge of what your doing and what can go wrong. :hap:

Kaykay The time line will be from setting your bird with the female. 9 to 14 days for the first egg. (if she lays) 18 -19 nineteen days for incubation this usuallay starts when the second egg is laid. two days after the first. 34 days for the chick to fledge. Sunny should be feeding botht the hen and the chicks. 10 days for the chicks to settle before you remove one to take it and sonny home. Thats. 77 days. If by the 21st days from setting no egg. Sonny should be taken home for a week and then retried. The safer way is (and if agreed by the other party) you bord the female and buy or borrow a "Clean" breeding box. Quarrentine the female for 45 days. (see the link for quarentine in my signature) then pair sonny and the female up as above. (Learn and ask heaps regarding breeding while you wait for the eggs and hopefully the chicks.,)

I took the Photo when they fledged... Like a graduation photo

Wendy you can make an incubator using a 40w or 60w lamp. I'll try to get some information for those that end up in Wendys situation. To construct a cardboard box incubator which will hold about three dozen eggs you will need the following: Two cardboard boxes, one l6" wide x 20" long x 12 1/2" high, another l4" wide x l8" long x 13" (or more) high Single-strength pane of glass l6" x 20" l/4"-mesh welded hardware cloth l8" x 22" Commercial heating unit or porcelain socket and light Cake tin (water pan) 1 1/2" deep x approximately 9" x l4" Glue Masking or scotch tape Newspapers Two brooding or incubator thermometers The incubator is constructed as following: 1. Please the smaller box inside the larger one. The inner should be higher than the outer box and about two inches smaller in both length and width 2. Mark a line on the inside box about 1/4 " below the level of the outside box. Use a yardstick to make a straight line on the inner box after it is removed from the box 3. Cut off the top of the inside box along the line made in step 2. 4. Use cut-away piece of the inside box to line the bottom of the inner and outer boxes where the flaps do not meet. You could also use pieces from a third box if you don't have cut away pieces 5. Glue on the bottom of the inner box and then center the inner box in the outer one. There should be one inch between the sides of the boxes, then secure the inner box until the glue is dried. 6. Mark a line on the flaps of the outside box where they come in contact with the inner edge of the inside box. 7. Cut off the flaps of the outside box along the lines drawn on step 6. Cut the corner pieces on a diagonal so that it will make a neat, flat corner. 8. Stuff strips of newspaper lightly into the space between boxes. Do not bulge the sides of the incubator. Wood shavings, or styrofoam can be used in place of the newspaper strips. 9. Use tin snips to cut a two-inch square from each corner of the one-fourth inch mesh hardware cloth, then bend the projecting pieces of the screen down so that they form legs to support the screen. 10. Place the cake tin, which will cover about one-half of the surface area of the inside box under the hardware cloth screen. 11. Install the commercial heating element as per the directions. If you use an electric light to heat, mount the porcelain socket on a board six inches square then place the mounting board on the screen. Nex, place a tube of cardboard around the light. Position the tube so that it surrounds the light and stands like a chimney, but to reduce fire hazard do not let it come in contact with either the light or the covering glass. An oatmeal box would make a good tube. 12. Tape the flaps of the outer box to the sides of the inner box as you will be sealing the area in which the insulating material was placed. To build a plywood incubator you will need the following: Plywood Glass Cake tin 1/4"- mesh welded hardware cloth Heating unit: either a commercial unit or porcelain socket and a light bulbs Masking tape You may construct the incubator according to the size desired. It can be a small one for only a few eggs or it can hold several dozen eggs. The large incubator will be more difficult to maintain temperature. You may even have to put a small fan to circulate the heat.

This is called bording or Stud Breeding. Pros and Cons Pros. You don't have to worry about seting up the breeding if the other person is a breeder. If you are only wanting one bird you can arrange to others as payment. Low Cost. Mutual Benifit. Cons Your bird will be open to any desease that the other aviary has. You will be with out your bird from between 3 weeks to 3 months. There is no garentees that it will work. Don't worry about your bird getting attached to the other bird. Bonds can be broken in 7 days. Your bird will not treat the Chick as a son or daughter but as another bird.

Well Phoebe you might want to tell her yourself...Guess Who wants them??

....Love the looks they are giving the food..

I'll try. We have a Hatch Certificate to go with her. That tell where she was hatched, who her parents where and the day of her hatching. It also has her photo.

Solid rings are placed on the chick (budgerigar) at the age of 6 to 10 days. After that age it is difficult to impossible to "ring" the bird. Should you be thinking of breeding and wish to track the lineage you can get Split rings that clip around the birds leg. The rings come with a tool to put them on. Note the ring on this chick.

:ausb: poor pixel... a lot of pain ...she is a real fighter..... you must be proud of her eterri.