Daz

I was reading that Jo Mannes pairs to cinnamon to get better fether quality. A better down. Both of these birds are from the pairing of Spangle to Opaline. The chick size is larger. The one on the left is Spangle Opaline. The one on the right is Opaline.

Thanks Bea, as I said I am now having to do what I was going to do on my holidays in January but as they have been cancled. I am working nights to get it done in time to shift the birds.

Wood working on the main part is done. I just need to do the trays, Metal guides, fronts and the perches.

Well they have togeather all their lives so it would be a shame to split them.

His "Sister" in the second photo grooms him and helps feed him. They will be going in to the nursary togeather this week. She is 40 days old and Fluffy is 50 days old. I usually trasfer them at 42 days to the nursary.

Today's Photos Fluffy has plenti of food. There is high protein for his needs and fresh vegetables.

I would surgest basic water with Apple cider vinager and possibly a anti mould agent. this would be good for three out of seven days. the other four days a rotational Calcium Treatment, then Vitamins, and then if all goes well Probotics before the parents starts to feed the chicks and then back to the Apple Cider vinager. Vegetables are good up to before the chicks are ready to hatch then stop it. Yes I know I should get a job promoting Vetafarm but other manufactures have simalar products. The idea is to give the chicks the best start in life by starting with the parents. As for soft foods, a hard boiled egg cooled shell and all in the blender with some carrot and parsley is a good start to feed the parents two days before the chicks hatch and all through the next 42 days of their lives. It will give protein, calcium and vitamins to there diet. I wouldn't give any vegetables until the chicks are older than 14 days. This means the youngest one. They will get their vitamins in the soft foods.

okay what about visual violet to visual violet. Visual Violet is Lv D (Violet Cobalt) 1. Lv D x Lv D DF Violet Skyblue 25% Visual Violet 50% Mauve 25% 2. L Dv x Lv D Violet Skyblue 25% Cobalt 25% DF Visual Violet 25% Violet Mauve 25% 3. L Dv x L Dv Skyblue 25% Visual Violet 50% DF Violet Mauve 25% So as you can see from the two Visual Violets there are many possibilities as to where the violet gene is attached.

Desi that is absolutely correct... Did you know this or get it from reading my post on Violets Nerwen to answer your question on Skyblues. What was the pairing again and the outcome?

Sounds like you are doing good to start with. I would be giving them Breeding Aid to help start things. It is mostly Vitamins. Now what are you doing about soft foods? Also what are you doing about a water management program for them? Just curious. :ausb:

Absolutely Fantastic Kaz... Well Done little one.

You know what Pie. I was thinking as I prepared their morning breakfast excatly that. My birds probibly eat better than I do. ...... he says and he sips his Crown larger :ausb:

I would love to find out what they are. I have to drop off a nest box to a member that breeds Crested but she has a few Malenistics. I'll ask her what she thinks.

One of the big penalty to Spangles on the show bench is the lack of markings. Here is a Spangle Opaline greygreen hen (nestfeather) As you can see the Wing markings are faint. Even for an Opaline. This pairing was from Opaline Cock to Spangle Hen. This is another from the same clutch with better wing markings. I paired these two togeather to enhanse the Marks, Size and to try to bring back the throat spots. Many breeders surgest Spangle to Normal but others now are saying Spangle to Spangle. Yes there is the resk of producing Double Factor Spangles but this is not allways the case. These two are from Spangle Greygreen pairing. Spangle grey and Spangle light green. Are you can see the wing markings are better but still not great.

You'll have to put up some photos of yours una Update: I spent the afternoon. doing some more wood working on the Stock Cages. I have to put the backs on, perches in and the cage fronts on. I'm going to see if I can get some metal trays made up for the bottoms.

So he is a violet Dark green. He is carring the Violet gene and a single factor dark factor. Now the fun thing is to find out if he is. Lv D or L Dv. Is the violet gene caried on the light factor or the Dark Factor.

The information on the pairing came from a DVD I just purchased called "The Evolvement of Mutations" recorded this year at the Nationals in Maroochydore. The speaker was none other than Jeff Attwood who wrote the article you speak of. So to anwser your question. On the video he speaks of development in Holland of the same bird and they were calling it the Dutch Dominant. There is also another Spangle mutation just called Mutatant 1. He speaks of it in the video.

That sounds very good. Here is mine if it helps. Thank you for buying your bird from Wells Family Budgerigars. We urge you to take your bird home as quickly as possible and avoid subjecting it to extreme heat, cold or noise. These extremes cause stress and stress can kill!! Ensure there is enough daylight time for your bird to orientate itself in its new surroundings. Allow it to settle down for a few days without handling it and keep it away from draughts. Try to learn as much as you can about your new companion. Enjoy your new pet. Veterinary Advice to purchasers of Birds Having purchased your new bird(s), there are several things you should know and do, to ensure they remain healthy. Birds are unique in how they show and respond to diseases. They can hide signs of illness until they are very ill, and can appear healthy to an owner who doesn't observe them closely every day. Stress plays a major role in the onset of bird diseases. This can be in the form of overcrowding, poor nutrition or hygiene, lack of shelter of hiding places, sudden or extremely hot or cold weather and a change of environment. Stress attacks the bird’s immune system, making it weaker and therefore more susceptible to diseases. For these reasons, all birds going into a new home or aviary after purchase should be kept separate from existing birds, so they can become accustomed to the new Surroundings, foods and routines. This should be done for a period of four weeks for maximum benefit. The Temptation to put birds straight into your aviary should be resisted for the health of your current and new birds as well as developing good bird keeping methods. During their time in quarantine, observe the new birds closely, feed them the same as your existing birds and worm them in the first and last weeks of the quarantine period. Releasing birds into the aviary is best done after the morning feed. Useful care and product information for the new bird owner To keep your birds comfortable and in the best of health we suggest you consider the following Information. BIRD SEED: make sure it is always clean and fresh and free of unwanted, cracked and dusty material. This especially applies to some of the ‘cheap’ mixes on the market. FRESH WATER: should be supplied daily BIRD WORMER: worms are a common cause of illness. Worm two weeks after purchase and than every three months. SULPHADIM: a useful medication to keep on hand for various ailments. SHELL GRIT: an essential digestive aid for all birds. CUTTLEBONE AND CALCIUM BELLS: to provide calcium, mineral and beak conditioning. EGG AND BISCUIT: for baby and breeding birds especially, and a treat for others. VITAMINS AND MINERALS: a good range to suit your needs. PERCHES: made form native trees (gum, bottle brush) will give your birds feet good exercise and help keep its beak trim. FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES: should be supplied regularly depending on your birds requirements. Corn on the cob, silverbeet, apple and soft fruits are all options. NATIVE FLOWERS: bottlebrush, banksia, grevillia and gum are popular with most birds. PROTEIN: In the form of egg and biscuit, sprouted seeds are excellent supplements and treats. BOOKS: essential guides for the ongoing well being of your bird

Update. Good news, I spoke to my closest neighbours who might be interested in the avairy for a shed. Don't know if he can convert it back . Well I have been busy, with the birds needing to come out of the avairy while the change over and modifications occur. I have had to arrange new accomidations. I,ve started to make 4 Stock cages. 1794 (l) x 449 (h) x 400 (d). They will be house here in the garage for a couple of weeks.

I think Karen said that the dad could be Jazz's Sister. Karen you could be breeding Malenistics spangles. of some sort Just checking the new rules for Melanistic Spangles. The first Malenistic Spangle was a pairing from a conventional Spangle to a Normal. Malenistic Spangle to Normal gives 100% Malenistic Spangle Melanistic to Malenistic gives 50% Malenistic, 25% DF Malenistic, 25% Normal.

Spangle Tail. This could be Jazz's Nephew. Is that right Karen?

Nerwen, Karen has just confermed that Jazz is the sister to a spangle? I'll have to have another look at Jazz. I thought she was a Dominant Pied Greywing skyblue. She has been throwing greywings and also a dominant pied now. But what is she hidding?

I don't know. I know the book says that you can't be split for a dominant. But were did a spangle come from??? and now how did the malenistic spangle occur? I'm just keeping my eye on these. They maybe some thing else. or nothing new. I might take one to the next meeting and see what the members say. But they are different???? :hap:

I want to bring this one back. Nerwen this is a melanistic Spangle Is this one Two out of the clutch have now developed clear/white tails??? What colour is Darrel's tail. These are her syblings.

I think the short answer is Yes. How many ? Normal / recessive to recessive = 50% Normal/recessive and 50% recessive. Yellowface is a dominant in the blue series.