GenericBlue

well i just seen this topic and i totally uterly agree 100 percent with nubbly i looked at all pics wrote em all down and in end the same vertict as nubbly 5 so... no point righting it again what she said

the scab has finally fallen off her head. This is how she looks today oh kaz the poor gal looks like a burns victim are you going to need to pay extra atention to the eye area as in so it doesnt infect or do you think it will be fine shes sure trooper isnt she poor darl well done on giving her the chance to savior her life i know many would not

can we see new pics oh and is the birds oldenough to be mateing yet as in should you not for the hens sake move her for her innocence and safety of becomming egg bound from producing eggs to young if shes nesting in feeder she will start to lay

and im sorry but reading back this post only a shade difference im sorry if i may seem like im picking directly at you but i am not a shade difference is a big thing specially to a colour breedred if you were to try and breed a mauve for instance you wouldnt just say oh well i have a light blue and umm m lets see oh i think its a cobalt mm might be light blue sky violet oh oh heak its just one shade off cobalt (this is an example not true breeding out come ) if this was fact you could breed all you like yet never get a mauve only sky blue and sky violet and cobalt's so i beg to differ but a shade differences is a big thing in breeding

They would be an extra hour and a half away than they are now For most of the time my children were growing up, my in-laws lived 2.5 hours away. But Dad was an over the road trucker, and that distance meant nothing to him. They would often call on a Saturday morning and ask if they could come out for the day. It was sad not to be able to just run out to visit them for shopping or dinner, but the distance was close enough that my children grew up with many memories of times with Grandma and Grandpa. Including birthdays and major holidays. It just depends on how much you are willing to make the drive. just means sleep overs for few days :}

HUGE HUGE difference between light green and dark green Squeak Only one shade difference really, and sometimes through photo's I personally find it harder to tell, as if it is overcast light greens can come up darker. I got some photos finally of the mum and dad budgie, below Rainbow cock and Apple green hen if you can look at your cock bird under his wing acrossed the top if its blue from the wingpit along he is not green at all but a blue bird with a yellow face bigger pics would help the hen is light green from where i sit but then what do i know oh and to me not Opaline at all The reason I said oplaine was because of the lack of barring on the head, but without seeing the flights and back I wouldn't know either This is guesswork we are all making, without bigger photos @ squeek um no this is not guess work you may be guessing i know this bird is not Opaline and not green i also can clearly see the hen is light green your the only one guessing and id be happy if you don't assume im guessing just as you are yes the pics are small and the only reason i said something with such a small picture is as you guess wrong okay i will admit the opaline bit may be wright but like you said you can not tell from that picture so why did you make an asumption about it you should ask for a picture so that you can clarify your thoughts im sorry but you have been guessing far to much latley and if im the only one got the nev to tell you then fine ill get band but its better than having to see the many thing you say with lack of knowledge behind you

lol and the bbc goes crazy as kaz has her bird stud up for cull .... oh my i could see it now :yes: :) thats mine :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: yeah right :hap: :hmm: :doh:

I got some photos finally of the mum and dad budgie, below Rainbow cock and Apple green hen if you can look at your cock bird under his wing acrossed the top if its blue from the wingpit along he is not green at all but a blue bird with a yellow face bigger pics would help the hen is light green from where i sit but then what do i know oh and to me not Opaline at all

i say that your going to get more people interested in it lol so sh stop it just buy it already lol as was mentioned above i also see mag-or variader aviary flight lol can do this with out structural damage but i am a crazy bird woman so........ kaz this is a great opitunity for a more relaxed life style and perfict for a b n b with a story to go with morning brecky for torusts snap it up you can always buy out next door for aviry space lol mind you where theirs a will ... :) oh and rach i bags a room first lol

thats a really complimentary pairing best of luck

very happy to hear all is going well very cute 6 binos

rach stick to your thoughts on the internal layer phantom pregnancy ? id let her fly for while lack calcium could have her not forming shell and just pooing everything out but fly her retry her if nothing id say internal layer

I personally wouldn't use this method, as the bird is also likley to become scared of you. It would see you as a big giant that is restraining it from it's natrual instinct of wanting to fly. If the bird bit you and you showed it hurt (which most people do) tehn the bird is automatically going to associate biting you as a way of you letting it go, or becoming scared. The reason people (Sunnie's idea is great, I have used it heeps of times) are getting birds to tame in the cage is because that is were the bird feels safest. When something new comes into their home, they will be natrually curious, like a toy. So by introducing your hand slowly, their natrual curiosity will take over, compared to forcing the bird to adapt to your hands. Just because you take a horse to water, you can't force it to drink. well we are all different and what i do is not force involved i only suggested this as nothing is working also all the birds ive tamed tame within a few weeks to point of coming to you when you enter the room if their out of cage this does not tell me that the bird is frightened scarred even of (a giant ? ) the whole idea is to bring it to you eye leave so it sees you equally as for it biteing so you let it go the idea is to let it bite you all it likes showing no emotion to this action its doing the bird then gives up as it sees you are not bothered by its intention to hurt you as your at its eye leave you simply tell it no in a calm normal voice these are ideas being said suggestions ive tamed birds for years and never clipped a wing yet all birds love their new homes and come to their owners who maintain the training i put in place a cage is not a place to tame a bird its a place to put it when your not with it as you said a place of safety taming is about time percistance and being boss if you want results you must be in charge as for leading a horse to water but not being able to force it to drink putting your hand in a birds cage making its safe place seem unsafe to me is not gaining trust its making the bird nerves of when next is its safety going to be at risk when is the thing going to come back so it associates you with the hand as your always their when the big thing comes i think cage taming unless bird has freedom to go in and out as it pleases is more un nerving to a bird than a few 10 mint sessions of being lightly handled and talked to everyday good luck toni taming you bird remember percistance and charge not to be mistaken with aggression and force

what i dont understand is why are you all trying to tame birds in their cages the best way is to get it out hold it in your hands cupped and talk to it rub your cheek on its little head how old is your bird now ??? dont grip it hard but keep it restrained in your hands untill he learns not to bite you (thats if he even does ) when you have gotten him use to you just holding him talking to him at face leave you can move on to the next step but intill hes happy to sit in your cupped hands with out trying to escape them then really hes just to scarred of you hands eye leave talking and rubs when you can get him use to that let me know a bird that wont come needs to be shown your safe sometimes you need to take the horse to the water so it can drink

hey hows the minerals in the cage going has she been toughing them do your birds get sun with out window or something blocking it has she lost wait ' is she eating well enough lack salt and minerals can cause runny nest hows she seem now

how long she been their now mate how many weeks ??? was she paired up before you put her in or you chose partner ??

That was my point, black eyed chicks Sorry for the thread hijck Sunnie Your fallows are gorgeous, no matter what colour no you were saying their sex linked their are not

thanks for joining in guys this could come handy for us all and others theirs heaps ring codes i know who belong to but im not obliged to say as i have not permission to do so although im quiet happy for people to know my code as are the guys above thanks again some people are funny and prefer not to say what their code is i dont understand that myself but have to respect everyones different

These red-eyed birds were inspected by C H Rogers, who suspected they might be a new variety and advised Mr Dervan to mate one of his Fallows to a German Fallow to check. This pairing was made in 1938, and from three nests eight black-eyed youngsters were bred, proving the varieties were distinct. In 1940 English Fallows of the Blue series were produced by Mr Dervan, and at that time he had 13 Fallows and 28 split Fallows. W P Bland, writing in the Budgerigar Bulletin in 1962 [7] , said he "... obtained some English Fallows and by 1939 had sixty". It seems unlikely that these birds were from Mr Dervan's strain if the date is correct. There is evidence that Scottish Fallows existed from the 1920s, and were originally called English Fallows, so it seems likely Mr Bland's were of this variety. In the early 1960s C Warner and T G Taylor obtained English Fallows from two different sources, although allegedly from the same breeder. They found they bred only black-eyed young when cross-paired. One type had a faint iris ring while the other was completely devoid of iris pigmentation. Both varieties were distinct from the German Fallow, and they concluded that three distinct forms of Fallow existed at that time. The Fallows with the faint iris ring were good quality exhibition birds and became known as "Moffat" or Scottish Fallows after their owner, Jim Moffat. In 1964 John Papin of California wrote [9] that in America no less than five distinct Fallow varieties existed. These were 1. English Fallow, red eye, solid without ring 2. German, red eye with ring 3. Californian, similar to German, red eye with ring 4. Californian, a near solid red eye type with rather fine grey markings 5. Texas, a red eye with strong body colour He said all were recessive and produce normals if intermated. nothing in here about sexlinked fallows however it does mention the black eyed chicks i was talking about

hey well i was looking for a ring code and yes i know i could call ring register but i dont like to bother people over something so little so i though if we could all put our ring numbers down here it would be cool stop a lot of wondering whos rings you've got may help also as can talk and or descuss birdswith the breeder if their on the forum if they state their willing to help with history of birds and if their not willing to give history write ring code and no history's available so my ring code is last year i had.............BCV 1151 TO 1200 and....BCV 3651 TO 3750 AND 10 RINGS FROM 1230 TO 1240 this year ...................my rings are coded GB8 001 TO 100 Im willing to give information on any of my birds history but of my coded birds only not my bcv codes

i can never do this dont know why looks easy but i come out with so many weird awnsers read this if you havent already its good reading http://www.bcv.asn.au/Violets.pdf Genetics of Violet Factor Summary: Violet Factor - semi-dominant Normal - recessive There are only two alleles for the violet trait: the violet factor gene and the normal gene. The violet factor gene is semi-dominant to the recessive normal gene. Because it is semi-dominant, in some cases a single-factor violet looks different from a double-factor violet. Here, we will represent the violet gene as "V" and the normal gene as "v". Therefore there are three possible genetic combinations for any budgie: * vv - Two normal genes (homozygous) resulting in a normal budgie. * Vv - One violet factor gene and one normal gene (heterozygous) resulting in a violet budgie only in cobalts and slightly detectable violet undertones in greens, sky blues, and mauves. * VV - Two violet factor genes (homozygous) resulting in a violet budgie in cobalts and sky blues and detectable violet undertones in greens and mauves. As you can see, the presence of one violet factor causes violet coloration in a budgie, but only causes true violet body color in cobalt budgies (budgies with one dark factor). Two violet factors cause the violet coloration in budgies to be more visible, but only causes true violet body color in cobalts and sky blues. It is difficult to breed true violets because of the conditions required to obtain the true violet body color. You can usually tell a green budgie has at least one violet factor. The violet darkens the green body color and sometimes causes violet to show in the feathers near the feet and vent. The feet may also look very dark or purple. Single-factor violet sky blues are darker that normal sky blues and usually show some violet coloration on the body feathers near the feet and vent. It is very difficult to tell if a mauve has the violet factor. Below are some punnet square examples of pairings. Basic Violet Inheritance Patterns A normal budgie and a single factor violet budgie vvXVv v v V Vv Vv v vv vv Offspring Phenotype Results: 50% Single-Factor Violet 50% Normal Offspring Genotype Results: 50% Heterozygous (Vv) 50% Homozygous recessive (vv) A normal budgie and a double-factor violet budgie vvXVV v v V Vv Vv V Vv Vv Offspring Phenotype Results: 100% Single-Factor Violet Offspring Genotype Results: 100% Heterozygous (Vv) Two single-factor violet budgies VvXVv V v V VV Vv v Vv vv Offspring Phenotype Results: 25% Double-Factor Violet 50% Single-Factor Violet 25% Normal Offspring Genotype Results: 50% Heterozygous (Vv) 25% Homozygous dominant (VV) 25% Homozygous recessive (vv) A single factor violet budgie and a double factor grey budgie VvXVV V v V VV Vv V VV Vv Offspring Phenotype Results: 50% Double-Factor Violet 50% Single-Factor Violet Offspring Genotype Results: 50% Homozygous dominant (VV) 50% Heterozygous (Vv) Advanced Violet Inheritance Patterns: (Inheritance Patterns of both the Dark Factor and Violet Factor) Two violet budgies (both cobalt, single-factor violet) DdVvXDdVv DV Dv dV dv DV DDVV DDVv DdVV DdVv Dv DDVv DDvv DdVv Ddvv dV DdVV DdVv ddVV ddVv dv DdVv Ddvv ddVv ddvv Offspring Phenotype Results: 37.5% True Violet (Cobalt Violet) 18.75% Mauve Violet 12.5% Sky Blue Single-Factor Violet 12.5% Cobalt 6.25% Mauve 6.25% Sky Blue 6.25% True Violet (Sky Blue Double-Factor Violet) A sky blue budgie and a violet budgie (cobalt, single-factor violet) ddvvXDdVv dv dv dv dv DV DdVv DdVv DdVv DdVv Dv Ddvv Ddvv Ddvv Ddvv dV ddVv ddVv ddVv ddVv dv ddvv ddvv ddvv ddvv Offspring Phenotype Results: 25% True Violet (Cobalt Violet) 25% Cobalt 25% Sky Blue Single-Factor Violet 25% Sky Blue

good to hear alls well dave

s-q all fellows are rec kind or am i missing something There is also a sex-linked kind : I can't be sure of this, as their are numerous arguments going on if all the fallow mutations are recessive, if this is sex-linked etc, so don't quote me. Good Luck with your next pairs! im pretty sure we only have english fellows over here i could be wrong as ive been told never breed german to english or you get dark eyed fellow chicks something to do with the gentics im clueless about fellows though if you put german to english you get a normal bird split both varities. I am not sure what fallows we get here either haha. you sure about that s-q im not so sure thats true but as i said i not fellow breeder

s-q all fellows are rec kind or am i missing something There is also a sex-linked kind : I can't be sure of this, as their are numerous arguments going on if all the fallow mutations are recessive, if this is sex-linked etc, so don't quote me. Good Luck with your next pairs! im pretty sure we only have english fellows over here i could be wrong as ive been told never breed german to english or you get dark eyed fellow chicks something to do with the gentics im clueless about fellows though

Thanks Kaz & GB - 6 eggs now. I didn't actually realise I wouldn't get any visual albinos from this pairing. I don't have another albino hen to put with any of the cocks that may come this nest (might have to consider my options, as I'm not that big a fan of albinos - it's my daughter's bird and she really really wanted us to breed her!). Hopefully I get some good normal hens though. albinos are good to use as normals as they normally are either sky blue violet or grey you could try putting your grey boy with her all cocks will be split albino so any breeding from them the next year will start to bring out the albino hens as they will through usually one every clutch if not more sometimes none but breeding with the split cocks to normal hens will leasten the amount of albinos being produced but also gives you a chance of some poping out as a little suprize here and their later as some the cocks will be carring dads genetic so chance some are /albino and some are not their handy to have as all albinos will be hens for sure of blue series what better could you ask just need to find out what dark factor the hens are to put them to good use