GenericBlue

some nice pick ups dave

sorry what do you mean by both had a none pied parent as in the young look like df pies ??? could be rec pied playing a part but do you have any rec pieds at all ? if you have a df pied and a normal paired you should get all pied chicks df and sf pied gives pied sf pied df and normal chicks df and df give i think dont quote me as its morning here df pied whole nest

maddy if you stopped them from breeding as you felt her condition was down then it makes no sense for you to let her sit on eggs fertile or not this is not going to help her pick her condition up as she will be eating less and being on her own condition will drop more as not being feed so..... move the nest box out or her out do not i repeat do not put her straight back into flight rest her in a cage alone with plenty of seed and fresh water for next two weeks at least then if all is well she can fly in the aviary till you are happy to breed her again leaving her to sit till she wants in this case is really not to smart darl as its really not going to help her become fit enough to breed again in a month or two in which if you let her fully rest not sit she may well be ready to do since she was not that under condition

thats fine mate im in no hurry

i know df doms are ment to give all dom pieds but i know a few that have breed normals every now and again so..... thats how i got my df dom he breed a normal in a clutch of 6 and owner didnt want him after that ihave no idea how that works but maybe combination pied rather than true dom could explain it i dont know

okay moving onto my..... light green Opaline /lacewing boy (thanks splat ) along with the two half brothers i received a Opaline light green he is not related to the two half brothers at all so have become a big part of my lacewing breeding program i first breed him to a white Opaline lacewing hen i culled all his clutch bar one hen due to them all being fm afflicted i did keep a yellow lacewing cock this is him 3 months also but after 6 months culled him as i didnt think he was that good however after seeing some the lacewings today i think i moved on that disishion to quickly but have since learn t my lesson their so all in all i kept a Opaline light green hen she is quite a really good bird bar her lack of a tail she has one but its not full just before i get pics of them the father daughter and hopefully one of mum here is a bird that kaz from her gifted me for my birthday in 2009 he is a beautiful Armstrong breed Opaline grey yf cock i breed him twice but his chicks never seemed better than him or his partner so i moved him on last year when i had my first big cull i felt bad but he was useful to someone else so that helped not much though as he was a gift okay the Opaline hen at 6 months old not great picture but her still need to find picture of dad here is a white lacewing cock i also got from nubbly hes the first cousin of the grey green and the cinnamon grey green cock he was just little here ill get new picture to compare him now ill get picture dad (opaline light green also when im out their tomorrow and light green hen now shes a year old

okay thanks mate

some have breed sister brother i think its to close as nubbly 5 said half brother sister is okay

okay can someone please tell me where i was in relation to the telling you guys about how i got started i really dont want to go reading it all again but if you cant put me back on trake i will just start with my aviary the changes where it started and what it is today

yf cinnamon violet/lacewing cock and yf lacewing dominant pied hen they will be so so pretty the chicks from these your birds are beautiful some your dom pied hens are df doms you knew that right i think you do but if not it means you dont need to put a pied cock to them just a norm-you will still get all dom pieds

i have otherhens but all my birds i am breeding for different features some for mask in spots some for length in stance others for feather and shoulder im starting right at the bottom and slowly moving my way up i will be keeping my lines quiet separate for a few years my lacewings have the head and feather i want in my clearbodys my spangles have the head and feather for my albinos which have the length and carage and my normal grey hens are adding some feather and length in mask to my albinos along with shoulder so i dont have a big stud only 130 birds but im looking at revising this to 50 so im looking at ways i can breed three variety's still including my lacewings and albinos clearbodys will fit latter with my inos but for now i need them to improve their in a little program i have set out before anything gets into them they are a line all of their own and the grey hens are part of that so i have only doms or lacewings or spangles all of which i dont want to risk if im already culling half clutch due to culling cocks does this make sense but my spangles and albinos wont be combining for a while yet i need to get a full bird of each before i move o that step will be few years im sure

okay here new pics of mum n chick as i said they are not best i am trying my other camera i have no clue how to use its complex for me here is my pop out almost finished almost ... its great to put the fresh food out their so floor does not get wet

Gb, if you put cinnamon into your clearbodies you will only be able to show the cinnamon clearbodies in the Non Standard class, I personally whould stay away from cinnamon , unless of course you are breeding for pet birds. but if i breed a clearbody cock to lacewing hen giving Clearbody Cock X lacewing Hen = 50% Clearbody Split lacewing Cocks 50% Clearbody Hens then culled all cocks id get clearbody hens just i dont have any clearbody hens of good worth bar a Australian golden face violet clearbody hen and thats just omg lol yet i have 10 lacewing hens all with the needed quality it would just be to start off with as i have two clearbody cocks only issue is their both split ino so im not sure what will then arise but if i get binos its k so but i just want few nice clearbody hens though this may be a good short cut you stay steer clear how about if it was just two clutches to get few clearbody hens as they will not be cinnamon only the cocks would be split

or get another cage

here is the method most use it is vital Budgerigar Quarantine Program Here is the quarantine practices most show breeeders use BUDGERIGAR QUARANTINE PROGRAM The following list outlines the steps that should be taken to safely and effectively quarantine new arrivals to protect your existing flock from potential infection. 1. EXTERNAL PARASITES (LICE AND MITES) Spray or treat birds thoroughly with a recommended treatment before putting into quarantine. you could use avian spray but id use this stuff you dilute in water 15 ml to one lt works for 6 months 2. INTERNAL PARASITES (WORMS) Treat with an effective worm treatment program on the second day of quarantine. Treat for two days. All aviary birds should be treated for worms at least four times per year. ivomectin treats for mites and worms but if useing to treat for worms you need to do it once then 2 weeks later to catch any eggs that may of hatched then every 3 months their after 3. CANKER Treat canker with a suitable product of your choice. Treat for five days. There are a number of recommended canker treatments available over the counter or you may consult your avian vet. Mix solution fresh daily. turbosole is best treatment for canker ... ten day treatment for the bird then whole flock every 6 months 4. COCCIDIOSIS Treat Coccidiosis with a suitable product of your choice. Treat for five days. There are a number of recommended Coccidiosis treatments available over the counter or you may consult your avian vet. Mix solution fresh daily. if you get a brand called baycox you treat for 2 days although i do for three to be certain all get a drink i also remove water the day before i give any medication in water returning it around 10 am next day medicated then remove every night around 6 pm till 10 am till treatments up this helps each bird get it in to them 5. MEGABACTERIA Treat with a recommended medication for ten days. Mix solution fresh daily the recommended treatment for this is just to keep it at bay its lemmons and oranges 3 days a week with apple cider vinigar in water 2 days a week for life 6. NUTRITION Supply extra vitamins, minerals, Probiotics and protein for the entire quarantine period use probiotics for 3 days in between each treatment of medication after one full day of plain water so medication for lenghth suggested then water clean of anything then probos for three days then plain water from then one unless keeping megga at bay where you will put apple cider vin in each twice a week 7. QUARANTINE PERIOD Quarantine your birds for a period of not less than 30 days (recommended by avian vets 90 days). Always handle your own birds first, wash your hands with an antibiotic hand wash, or wear disposable gloves prior to handling your quarantined birds. It is also advisable to wear different footwear with the quarantined birds. 8. CAGES Minimum size for budgerigars is 600mm x 450mm x 350mm. 9. POSITION * Inside conditions; separate air space. (meaning a different room) * Outside conditions; At least five meters from other birds. 10. PREPARATION· Clean and disinfect quarantine cages. * Place paper on the bottom of cage and change regularly. * Wash and disinfect all food and water containers. * Be careful not to carry droppings, feathers, or any other waste back into your existing aviary. * Wash hands after caring for quarantined birds. 11. OBSERVATION DURING QUARANTINE. WHAT YOU SHOULD LOOK FOR. * Prolonged inactivity. * Eye or nasal discharge. * Weight loss. * Soiled vent or diarrhea. * Cages lined with paper make observation of droppings easier. * Wheezing or gasping. If any of these signs occur, separate the affected bird(s) from the other quarantined stock and contact your avian vet. In the event of a disease outbreak, keep a record of dates the disease was first detected and the type of disease and notify your club secretary. Do not allow other club members to come into contact with diseased birds and always assume strict hygiene. Do not sell - auction or trade diseased birds. i know this sounds like a lot of stuff and it is costly but in the end it is a needed thing at the price of a bird the cost of having a medicine cabinet is really not that much you may need to take a bird to your closest avian vet to be able to receive products in future through mail however this cost of 45 for a consultation is well worth it in end if you become a member with rob marshall http://www.birdhealth.com.au/about/marshall.html you can get these things by simply sending a poo sample away good luck i did notice the main treatment their missing doxaline or doxyvet you treat the birds for 2 weeks if any signs of depression along with large poo you stop this treatment however if the poo gets smaller and birds way more active continue for 45 days to treat Chlamydia psittaci C. psittaci's ability to mystify us does not end with classification. It can cause disease in humans, other mammals and birds. It can kill a bird in 48 hours or it can survive in birds causing no outward sign of illness, for as long as 10 years. It can be explosively contagious or barely contagious. It can be destroyed by antibiotics easily or with incredible difficulty. It can be easy to diagnose or extremely frustrating. It can kill baby birds and cause no disease in their parents. It can live outside the body, as well as within. It can be easy to control or almost impossible. It causes massive flock outbreaks one year and none the next. Individual Susceptibility The incubation period of psittacosis, as well as the degree of clinical illness, adds to our bewilderment. Just how a bird manifests its exposure to the disease depends on host susceptibility and the virulence (strength) of the strain. Host susceptibility. Some birds, because of their genetic resistance, are less likely to become ill and, consequently, are more likely to develop into carriers. These include pigeons (one study suggests 70 to 90 percent of all wild pigeons are carriers), doves, budgerigars, cockatiels, cockatoos, herons, gulls, hawks, and approximately 100 additional sylvatic species. Other species, such as rosellas, lorikeets, neophemas, mynahs, canaries and some parrots have low natural resistance and are highly susceptible. Young birds, due to the relatively incompetent immune systems, are subject to neonatal psittacosis with subsequent high mortality. Any factor that stresses a bird will lower its resistance and increase its potential susceptibility and mortality. Egg production, feeding young, weaning, poor management, overcrowding, concurrent infections and molting are just a few of the many things that stress birds. The individual power of any agent to infect is known as virulence. This power is subject to change, especially as it inoculates birds and is passed out in the stool. Since each gram of stool from diseased birds can infect 10,000 other birds, the agent's power to cause psittacosis becomes very pertinent. Transmission Transmission of C. psittaci is also unsettling. The organism is shed in the nasal secretions and in the stool from infected birds, recovering birds and carriers. Once outside the body, the organism can live for a long period of time, drying to form dust and infecting the susceptible hosts as they breathe. Fecal and oral contamination are especially significant in crowded conditions, as well as in nest boxes. As a general rule, inhaled Chlamydia will cause severe disease, while ingested Chlamydia will tend to develop into carriers. Transmission through the egg has been experimentally produced in ducks, but as a practical problem, is not documented in psittacines. Symptoms and Diagnosis The clinical symptoms can be variable, depending on the species infected, the virulence of the agent, the route of exposure and concurrent stresses. The "typical psittacotic bird" is ruffled, depressed, has labored breathing, nasal and ocular discharge, and is neither eating nor vocalizing. The appearance of lime-green or yellow droppings, especially when the urine component is discolored, is highly suggestive, although not diagnostic, of the malady. One form of psittacosis seen infrequently manifests central nervous system signs. Tremors, shaking, head twisting and convulsions may be the only symptoms you see. This clinical peculiarity has been recognized in Amazons, African greys and cockatoos. Cockatiels can develop a psittacosis syndrome that causes paralysis of the limbs, and usually dark, tarry stools. Additionally, cockatiels and neophemas (turquoisines, scarlet-chested parakeets) with low-grade infections may seem to have an eye disease resembling a sty. Diagnosis of chlamydiosis in birds is definitive only if the organism is identified, isolated or causes a predictable physiologic response. The identification of the organism is achieved by stains or a fluorescent antibody test. Treatment Treatment for parrot fever is now much more successful than it once was. Most veterinarians use tetracycline and its derivatives, mainly Vibramycin, to treat sick patients as well as carriers. The antibiotic can be given by intravenous or intramuscular injections, orally or mixed in proper ratios with palatable food. Calcium must be withheld - it binds the tetracycline. Blood levels of tetracycline can be enhanced by citric acid in the birds' drinking water. Patients in chlamydial crisis need intense, supportive care (heat, isolation, extremely clean conditions, absence from stress, etc.) as well as therapy for concurrent problems. Appropriate lactobacillus, as well as antifungal medications, are essential. Control and Prevention Controlling avian psittacosis is best accomplished by keeping susceptible birds away from the infecting agent. Since this little "microvarmit" can remain infective for many months in dried excrement, cleanliness and disinfection are essential. The Chlamydia species is inactivated by quaternary ammonium compounds. These disinfectants should be used to clean cages and wet-mopped on surrounding areas. Eliminating drafts and spraying the area with disinfectants will help keep infectious feathers and dust to a minimum. Birds that have had the disease or are under treatment are fully susceptible to reinfection since the disease does not convey immunity. In wild birds, psittacosis is controlled naturally by the inability of sick birds to keep up with the flock. Additionally, infective droppings fall to the ground below the trees in which the birds perch. The clinical disease that we see in pets is promoted by confining, crowding, transporting, dietary changes, exposure to other infections and forced exposure to infective excrement… This article above came from http://www.multiscope.com/hotspot/psittacosis.htm Please read whole article and you will understand why I use the Antibiotic called “Doxycycline” as “first choice” Medication. You will notice the difference straightaway after treatment! hope that helps never ever just by birds randomly and put straight into a flight try buy all birds from one supplier /breeder at the one time making sure birds are not to closely related if you aim to bred

i bet it was just dont sell anything darl just think of last time and why you went backwards dont sell im just trying to help you anything worth them wanting is worth you keeping more just remember that

hello again i was wanting to find out from others here if the breeding of clear body's to produce lacewings or lacewings to produce clear body's actually worked or if it was like ino x lacewing and more so than not affected the standard of the birds i feel that it would play with the clear body due to the cinnamon factor but would it affect the lacewing due to the clear body's retaining of fading out ??? i really am interested to hear from anyone whom has tryed this pairing before and results of chicks as in quality of mutation i do know the out comes just not the visual result of birds thanks in advance gb

snap

lol dont sell mate dont do it keep the birds money just goes on bills or **** great prizes thats fantastic you did so so good well done pics i want pics of everything ha ha ha please love to see the flight cage what a cool prize that is

yep i agree my mirror even does my own head in lol

okay so i got pictures up loaded but i think i need to get you new ones as chicks have grown so so quickly here is mummy lacewing with her two surviving chicks her normal chick the lw chick also i had three more chicks hatch over last three days these are too a sky blue cinnamon hen x a agf sky blue i know the fact that she is cinnamon wont help if i get agf cock but im only wanting the hens so im not bothered i will be culling all the cocks from this pairing they were paired for foster mum in dad anyways but were un needed so hatched their own chicks with my blessing the other lacewing with 7 eggs ended up hatching out three we had a big thunderstorm and the other 3 all were dead in shell but three is better than none im glad they hatched before the storm or would have had none maybe two other chicks have hatched and the lacewing mum has raised with her cock bird a cinnamon grey green/lw and a olive cinnamon /lw not sure if these will stay or go yet not looking anything spectacular to me so..... the chicks dad im feeling bit better last few days so if rain stops i may go get all new pics

if you keep up the calcium and veggies and just monitor the hens so as you dont get one egg bound then i think its fine i have two laying in my flight at moment although i dont like it it will happen as the hens in question should not be going a third round so the floor it is

lol NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO not again hee hee

are you not coming here for easter. kaz , as is her way , reminded me of a fallow breeder i had completely missed. he has the old brett wood line , an excellent line of fallows. i have emailed him as these will be a different bloodline , thats what i want. waiting for a reply. thanks kaz ( what you don`t know aint worth knowing) i am i am i was wondering if i still was invited and even when it is i am not a person that celebrates Easter as such its usually mum ringing me up saying you know Easters tomorrow and a mad dash down street to grab a few googys for the kids :} so i want to be prepared its a long travel down and i want to leave early to beat the idiots im getting a house sitter for the weekend hee hee so my birds are okay :}