melbournebudgies

I am planning on taking these two chicks along on Thursday to the club show. Do they look alright? (Excuse the food on her face ) Her sister

I have this little cinnamon spangle crest bred chick who I am starting to wonder whether she is also opaline, any thoughts?

Yeah I know and then you see other PG movies and think Geez I reckon this should be rated M atleast, sometimes I wonder about the people who do the classifications

It's just the monthly club show but still a new experience for me I have a colander that should llow the small seeds to drop through fine so I'll run some seed through that before Thursday

But the standard above simply states: Mixed seed consisting of at least three of the following - Plain Canary, Pannicum, Japanese Millet, White Millet and Hulled Oats must be used on the floor of the show cage for all shows. There shall be no paper or other underlay on floor My seed contains atleast three of those as well, it doesn't say you can't have others over and above those :rofl:

So it sounds like theoretically I can't be disqualified for i but maybe I'll try and strain it out so that it doesn't draw any attention to it.

I am taking three birds to my first show on Thursday :rofl: but I've just realsied that I am still running onmy winter supply of seed which includes sunflower and safflower. Does the seed have to be straight budgie or can I leave this seeds in? I'm loath to go and buy new seed until my current lot is close to finished but I might run some through a coarse sieve if I have to.

WHAT IS YOUR NAME: Erin BOY NAME: Edward 4 LETTER WORD : Ever GIRL NAME: Elizabeth OCCUPATION: Entomologist A COLOR: Eggshell (hey it's the colour my mum painted her walls ) SOMETHING YOU WEAR: Earmuffs BEVERAGE: Eggnog FOOD: Egg SOMETHING FOUND IN A BATHROOM: Exfoliant A PLACE : Egypt REASON FOR BEING LATE: Escaped zoo animals chasing the car! SOMETHING YOU SHOUT: Everybody get out of my bedroom and go play in your own room (about 50 times a day :rofl: )

Angelic Vampyre got my pair for me from a local breeder here in Melbourne

Permit Req. Health Certification Pre-Export Preparations Transport Requirements Port of Entry Req. Special Conditions Country name:UNITED KINGDOM Species name:BIRDS Transport requirement:Transport details exist. Updated:16 Jun 2005 Protocol Last Negotiated:MAY 1984 Disclaimer The information provided in this database is intended for use as guidance only and should not be taken as definitive or exhaustive. The Commonwealth endeavours to keep this database current and accurate, however, it may be subject to change without notice, and exporters should make their own inquiries in relation to import requirements. The Commonwealth will not accept liability for any loss resulting from reliance on information contained in this database. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Permit Requirements:Permit for GB requires at least one month for processing from the date of its receipt. Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food Hook Rise South Tolworth Surbiton Surrey KT67NF ENGLAND OR Department of Agriculture and Fisheries Animal Welfare Branch Chesser House 500 Gorgie Road Edinburgh EH11 3AW OR Welsh Office Agriculture Department Crown Buildings Cathays Park Cardiff CF1 3NQ An additional permit is required if you want to export birds to Northern Ireland, the Isle of Man, or the Channel Islands. These are obtainable from - Department of Agriculture for Northern Ireland Dundonald House Upper Newtownards Road Belfast OR The Board of Agriculture and Fisheries Government Buildings Douglas Isle of Man OR Department of Agriculture 44 Esplanade St Helier Jersey OR Department of Agriculture Burnt Lane St Martins Guernsey If your bird is considered to be an endangered species an import permit from the Department of the Environment is also required. All psittacine birds require this licensing. Budgerigars and cockatiels do not. It is recommended that this permit be applied for well in advance of the proposed date of export. Department of the Environment Wildlife Conservation Licensing Section Tollgate House Houlton Street Bristol BS2 9DJ Top Health certification:No cases of Newcastle disease or clinical avian influenza have been diagnosed on the premises where the birds have been kept, or within a radius of 10 km of those premises, during the six weeks prior to the date of shipment. Top Pre-Export Preparations:All birds have been examined by an official veterinarian* within 48 hours of the date of shipment of the birds, and certified healthy and free from clinical signs of infectious or contagious disease, including Newcastle disease and avian influenza. The birds to be exported are fully fledged ad capable of feeding themselves The birds to be exported and/or the birds on the premises from which the birds are to be exported have not been vaccinated against Newcastle disease. The birds to be exported have been resident in Australia for at least 2 weeks before export and during this time they have not received any antibiotic treatment. The isolation premises have been cleaned and disinfected prior to entry of the birds for export. * The official veterinarian must not certify any captive birds for export when he has a direct financial interest in the captive birds, arising for example from ownership of the captive birds or a business relationship with the exporter or is the exporter himself. UK MAFF gives the following recommendations as part of good husbandry and hygiene: Exporters should 1. not keep any poultry at their aviary, nor should they have any direct or indirect contact with any poultry; 2. where appropriate, reduce the possibility of any contact between birds in their isolation premises and visiting wild birds by good housekeeping methods, ie. all food supplies stored inside the buildings, and any spilt food should be swept up at least twice daily; 3. adopt high standards of cleanliness and disinfection of their aviaries especially between batches; 4. burn all birds dying in isolation after any necessary veterinary examination rather than bury them; 5. not use antibiotics excessively. If treatment is required, a course given after capture should be sufficient to overcome any capture/transport stress- related conditions. Grat care should be taken to ensure that water used to dilute the antibiotic is uncontaminated. Previously boiled and cooled water should be used if necessary. Top Transportation Requirements:A written statement from the exporter to be attached to the health certification confirming that the birds for export:- 1. will be shipped to Great Britain with not more than one intermediate stop; 2. are not being consigned from the country of export with any other birds not of a similar animal health status; 3. are packed in accordance with International Air Transport Association (IATA) Live Animal Regulations. Top Port of Entry Requirements:An official export health certificate, signed and stamped by an official veterinarian to accompany every consignment, contained on one sheet of paper giving name and address of exporter, name and address of importer, and including a schedule of the birds giving details of numbers and species (English and Latin scientific names to be used). Certificate to be in English and must state: 1. All birds have been examined by an official veterinarian within 48 hours of the date of shipment of the birds, and certified healthy and free from clinical signs of infectious or contagious disease, including Newcastle disease or avian influenza. 2. the birds to be exported are fully fledged and capable of feeding themselves. 3. No cases of Newcastle disease or avian influenza have been diagnosed on the premises where the birds have been kept, or within a radius of 10 km of those premises, during the six weeks prior to the date of shipment. Top Special conditions:Please contact the Department of the Environment and Heritage for any additional requirements or restrictions on the export of birds. Department of the Environment and Heritage GPO Box 787 Canberra ACT 2601 Phone: 02 6274 1900 Fax: 02 6274 1921 email: wildlifetrade@deh.gov.au website: www.deh.gov.au/biodiversity/trade-use Top ANIMEX V5.00 For more information contact the ANIMEX administrator. Document prepared by AQIS URL: http://www.aqis.gov.au/animex/asp/Restriction.asp Last updated: 01 Sep 2004

Until you've actually seen a bush budgie in the flesh it's very hard to envisage just how small they are

The simple answer is no. The only way you can transport a bird overseas is if you are a resident of AUs moving overseas to live permanently and even then I think you are only allowed to take one or two with you.

Pet shops won't sell it, you would need to speak to a vet (preferably an avian one) or look up when there is a bird sale on in your area or even speak to a local bird club as they will often sell it

Ivermectin taken internally won't Liv but the spot on to the back of the neck should :rofl:

Personally I think the best you can get is an Ivermectin spot on, your local avian vet might sell it but I buy mine from the bird sales when they are on. I buy a 50ml bottle for $3 and that will do over 100 treatments. It treats, mites/lice, scaly face, etc and you only need to treat them once to treat an existing problem.

Just have some pegs handy and peg it to the wire over the door when you want to go in

I would say hen going by those photos too

If the aviary you have is fine otherwise then hang a bit of bird netting (about $3 from Bunnings) over the door, then you can get under the net before opening the door and you shouldn't loose any more

I'm confused....Are these birds in an aviary? You shouldn't have birds which are too young to breed in an aviary with nest boxes it's like encouraging twelve year old girls to have children. I have reread your post and it sounds like the girl is to young is onto her third clutch?? This is bordering on too many for an experienced hen and defiantly I would say too many for a young hen, you may be risking her life breeding her this much as breeding takes a lot out of a bird. Just as a side note it would really help if you could punctuate your post. It makes it very hard to read otherwise

I am putting my spangles to normals, spangles and DF spangles(although I only have one show type DF at the moment), just really going on the attributes of each indiviual bird and choosing a mate to complement them. I am trying to keep opaline out of my breeding as I don't want opaline spangles, not real keen on the look of them

Sorry should have said that is only when I am on holidays He is 13 but he is very good and his mum came across with him initially to make sure he wasn't forgetting anything, etc. I leave a list for him so he doesn't forget anything and he can check it all off. It really depends on the kid, I have a four year old that I would almost trust enough to do it and then I have friends my age who I wouldn't let near my birds under any circumstances, some people are just more clued in to animal stuff

This is my first season breeding show types, I'll be taking my first babies in for UBC class as the club show this Thursday I had a few dramas during my first round and didn't get as many chicks as I had hoped so I am hoping to have a better second round and have some good chicks on perches for the early shows at the start of next year. I am aiming for spangle and crested lines but at this stage getting some good stock of normals as well to put back to my spangle and crested birds for type in the future. Hoping to have a nice crested or two on the show bench early next year.

Kaz you are making me jeolous, that's exatly what I want! Do you mean in the bottom of your nestboxes? I now use rolled oats for young babies and change to budgie seed when the babies are a few weeks old, have found this system to be brilliant.

I pay the teenager across the road to care for mine, he's AMAZING. I could have a dozen breeding cages set up and he'll feed and water them all plus the aviary birds including giving them vegies plus feeding all my other pets avery day for $10, mostly he does it because he loves animals I actually think he'd probably happily do it for free but I dont feel right about that with my zoo. If you find a good thing stick with it because people who'll do a good job of caring for a whole heap of birds when you are away are few and far between if you ask me.

Mine cabinets are basically the same as Kaz's, I use the standard budgie boxes hanging on the side (as they have the door at the side of the box rather than the back) and I also have some which are kinda similiar to Kaz's which are mounted on the front. I'm using a bit of a mix thise season as I want to test out options so I can set everything up in a way that I feel will really suit me next season. The hooks are screwed in at the top of the front one on each side, you will need to work out where best to put them to have your boxes sitting in the correct position on your cages. I hadn't even noticed that Kaz had solid cabinets for her cages, that's what I want to do. I have the tubular steel frames at the moment too