Hello All

 

I am in the planning process of my new and first bird room. The shed I am buying is a 3m x 3m Absco Zincalume Garden Shed.

 

I am planning to frame the interior into three individual 1m x 2m flights one for the young birds and one for the hens and cocks. On the other wall o am planning to install my 15 breeding cabinets.

 

I will have a large window installed across all three flights a wirly bird on the roof and a standard screen door enstalled for entry and exit to bird room and aid with ventilation.

 

My concern if course is HEAT. I live in Tweed Heads area northern NSW. I was planing to line the interior roof section with insulation but not the walls. Floor is standard cement slab. I will have up to 100 birds in the room at any one time.

 

My question is: will this bird room be too hot. Do I need to line all walls with insulation and fibro sheeting or do I need to build a second roof over the entire room.

 

I have read many posts on here regarding other members bird rooms and would greatly appreciate as Manu opinions as possible.

 

Thanks

 

Budgie Smugglers

Its gonna be real squeezy if all you have for the depth of your breeding cabinets plus room to move and open doors to flight is a metre. 45cm depth of breeding cages leaves 55cm for you and doors to flights.

You wont need three flights...there's really no need to separate males and females.

Whats wrong with one large mixed flight plus room for a kindie cage for your youngsters ?

 

These sheds are often only 1.8 metres in height so low roofs means heat and cold gets to the birds as well as condensation in winter....drip drip drip from the inside ceiling. Second roofs helps this as I have experienced.

Sometimes a workshop shed is better... a shade bigger plus mostly they are higher roofs. Taller roofs are a better way to go.....at least 2.4m or 2.7 is better.

Large window lets in heat and cold also although good for ventilation. Whirlybirds need meshing or a bird on the loose goes up through them and you need to be able to shut them down in winter for rain and winds.

You will also need a second door attached ( mesh ) so you can look through in case of escapees before you enter....often birds escape from breeding cages into the breeding room ) and this is handy because you can have the shed aired by just having the mesh door in place on some warmer days.................and or a safety door setup.

Whats your budget and space requirements ? We often shop around for other members and help them come up with a better choice

Edited September 2, 201113 yr by **KAZ**

Hi Kaz,

 

Your right will be squeezy. But my budget is about a grand. I like the idea of a mixed flight but what size would I need. What size kindy cage would I need?

 

The shed is 1.8 high with a gable height of 2.1m. I was going to insulate the roof for warmth and to stop condensation but not the walls, what do you think about not insulating the walls?

 

The large window I was going to cover with a heavy duty plastic blind in rainy weather or cold.

 

Any more thoughts as space is not an issue just cash as usual.

 

Cheers

 

Not sure on

Hi, I have a 3m x 3m garden shed I ordered mine with wall height 215 and gable peak height from memory 254 cm and honestly you would not want it any lower. I paid around $750. for mine delivered, it came in 4 walls already assembled and 2 sides of the roof. Mine is A Steel Chief shed.

Have a look at my post on my new birdroom.

 

http://forums.budgiebreeders.asn.au/index.php?showtopic=29487

 

Anyway I have a whirly on the roof and actually no rain gets in in the winter.

This is what I have discovered. because they are small sheds they do heat up much more than large sheds.

You really need the extra height and you really need the cross ventalation to cool it down in the summer months.

 

Now with mine I put the insulation foil on roof and walls, I completely line the inside with a freestanding wooden frame and and I framed the ceiling. I then insulate roof and ceiling. Then I lined the walls with cement sheeting because that is meant insulate too, BUT I actually hate the cement sheeting because I am limited to where I can put a nail.I have the door on the second panel and the window next to it on the 3 and 4th panel because I didn't want to waste a wall but I wish now I put the window on the back wall for cross ventilation. So when I finish breeding I am cutting the back wall up and putting in a small window.

I am also putting up a veranda to try and cool it too. I do believe you need a second roof but how to do that is ???? Kaz how. I for one do not want any wood anywhere near my bird room because so far I am mouse proof.

 

I also agree with Kaz, 3 aviaries and breeding cages would be to much for that size shed, you would regret it because you wouldn't be able to move around much.

My birdroom is only for breeding as much as I would love to put aviary in there and that was my original plan I decided to go for breeding cages only, I have baby cages also which are quite big.

Edited September 2, 201113 yr by splat

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXCELSHED-3-5mx4-35m-Garden-Shed-Storage-Sheds-Sale-/160538163960?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2560d1faf8#ht_7387wt_905

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Excel-Premium-Shed-3-7mx2-8m-Garden-Shed-Storage-Sheds-/150590659744?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item230fe71ca0

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Absco-Workshop-Shed-Sheds-6-0m-x-3-0m-Zincalume-/260846613651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3cbbab7493#ht_8249wt_1101

Have a look at these links , they do the extra height .

 

http://www.gardenshedsonline.com.au/index.php?p=product&product_code=Gable_Roof_Garden_Shed_3_0m_x_3_0m-116-7

 

http://www.barns.com.au/brochures/steel-chief-garden-sheds.pdf

 

The company Durabuilt does the extra height on some of their sheds. Apsco don't.

 

I really like this shed that Kaz put up, I like the fact that it has the extra supports.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Excel-Premium-Shed-3-7mx2-8m-Garden-Shed-Storage-Sheds-/150590659744?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item230fe71ca0

Edited September 2, 201113 yr by splat

Thanks Kaz and Splat

 

I like that shed from Kaz also Splat. What size do I make my kindy cage splat. I suppose it depends on the number of birds but I anticipate I will breed approx 100 per year from my 15 pairs, so I will need something big enough to hold them as they fledge in stages till first mould then they can go into the main flight.

 

Is it essential to insulate the walls of my bird room or who the roof suffice.

my sheds the same size yours its the same exactly 15 cages wont fit unless you have them at floor leavel to

i have 12 and thats using back wall too

 

i took this today just a bit of my shed

i can get more

but i got one flight anymore id not be able to move at all as is i knock **** all time

lose lots babys as i have no space and with boxes on outside knock em off

im changing back to nests in cages

will be bit better still tight

you will need loads ventilation

windows front and back and roof vents

good drainage in floor

i added a pop out

i fit in flight comply 40 birds and 60 at most with out bickering or stress setting in

 

ill try get snaps and wright my do not dos tomorrow for you

 

personally wish id just saved extra waited longer brought a actual aviary with 2 or three flights as easier to cover than cut holes in for air ventalation

gb

will need faulse roof to stop condensation

 

 

Hi Kaz,

 

Your right will be squeezy. But my budget is about a grand. I like the idea of a mixed flight but what size would I need. What size kindy cage would I need?

 

The shed is 1.8 high with a gable height of 2.1m. I was going to insulate the roof for warmth and to stop condensation but not the walls, what do you think about not insulating the walls?

 

The large window I was going to cover with a heavy duty plastic blind in rainy weather or cold.

 

Any more thoughts as space is not an issue just cash as usual.

 

Cheers

 

Not sure on

i lined my walls but no insulation just screwed straight on to wall from out side then cut the screw endings off and sanded flat

Depending what type of breeding boxes you are going to use. In my shed on one side I have 3 cages x 3 high which is 9 wire cages with 2 wire cages on top for parents to rest, so that is 4 high. I have a cupboard and space for the vacuum on the same wall, so if I didn't have the cupboard or vacuum space I would have 4 cages wide x 3 high for the breeding.

But on my other wall I have wooden cages (melamine) and I have 2 lots of double cages x 3 high so that's 12 cages but when I make the ones it be 4 high. But only uses the higher ones on both walls in the cooler months. On the same wall I have 2 very large cages for babies and one baby cage on top so they have some flight space.

 

Are handy with your hands as in building because honestly when I bought my shed and by the time I lined I think it would of being cheaper to put the tin up myself. make it from scratch, because when you think about it, it was framed just like a building inside a shed.

If you were handy you can make it to the size you want. I was going to do mine from scratch and I really wish I did now. Make the 4 walls seperate raise tham up and bolt etc. the roof wood of being the challenge.

 

Hey Gb why do you need the good drainage for the floor. my birdroom is water tight.

 

Here is my plan why don't you...

1 small flight down one side of the wall, width of one panel of the shed and length of shed, that will give probably about 2 and 1/2 feet wide and 8 feet long flight, (that's how I wanted mine origionally) .You can have perches each end from floor to near the to so their will be plenty of perch room.

Have breeding cages along the opposite wall and on the back wall make a baby aviary where the other aviary finishes, so about 2 feet wide and say 6 feet long so you still have room for breeding.

I would only have one door and put the window.

cleaning reasons hun

im about to go scrub out my flight now and as i need to wet floor i cant wash it away i have to soke it up with towels and stuff

 

i also find that they birds dont get sun

and i know lots dont but since i did my pop out my birds so much better

 

if i could do it all again

id save extra and just get a ready made flights and add protection to that and use one end (flights as a breeding room

 

i have a totally mouse proof shed weather proof bar one section near my window (being me i couldn't seal it and its still not finished )

its fully ventilated along roof and both sides have opening doors of 90 cm front

this way birds can be closed in at night

pop out closes also for keeping out night cold

double roof yet still need another one as shed gets very hot very quickly

it has sky light that in winter lets in light built needs covering in summer totally waste of time as no point if cant let it do its job as need to cover to keep heat out

floor has terracotta paves to keep floor cool

but my bad terracotta also sucks up moister so

floors always damp big no no

im still trying to work out how to fix that

with out needing to take em all up

 

basically my whole flight is a f@$#%^#@up

and if i could sell it i would but to do that it would need total removal bit by bit and would take forever to pull down and to put back up

the only thing about it is

it looks good

 

i have a new pre made flight im trying to find someone to put up for me

ive had it almost 8 month snow still

sitting their

i tried to do it myself but i have failed its not safe to put birds in as lose screws and all

 

im just saying unless you have help consent till start to end

bye ready made

also really really best to go look at others set ups as i thought mine would be good but in practice it sucks

I am really happy with mine BUT bigger would of being much better, but money was the problem and Greg wouldn't let me go bigger but now I am trying to suck him into letting me extend lol, at least a mouse proof aviary next to it take a wall off and make it bigger, Steel Chief also sells add ons if you want your shed bigger later, but I think between Greg , Geoff and myself we could do it ourselves, one day.

My floor is cement GB, maybe you could clean it all out and put cement on top of the pavers.

When I finish breeding I am putting down masonite floor stuff and then putting lino down, I have bought my lino already. I vacuum everyday and wipe over the cement surface with the mop but it will be much easier to mop over the lino.

Budgiesmuggle , with garden sheds the bigger the better and the more height you can get the better too. Because they are small they heat up fast.

I have my wire door I made open everyday day until night, in the winter I put clear PVC plastic over the wire and just used the window for air but now that it has warmed up I have take one piece off , the top piece , so the air comes in their plus the window open all the, soon when it warms up more I will take it all off. So far I am mouse proof, the other I forgot to close the tin door at night.

The she when the tin door is closed is quite dull so I have a timer that the fluo light comes on at daylight and turns off at 8 am and then come on at 5.30 pm and goes off at 6.30pm when they settle down for the night, I have another time with a night light that glows the room up enough for them to find the nest if needed. It is one of those ones that come on (senor) when the room is dull) but I have it on a timer because Greg was wondering why the birds were chirping away at night and why there was a light going in there, so I put the timer on so it turns on when the flou turns off but the it turns off at 7pm and and starts again at 8pm after Greg goes to bed. LOL and then it turns off at 5 am and turns on again at 5.45 after Greg goes to work . lol cunning aren't I.

 

GB and Kaz how would you do a false roof.

 

For kindy cage while birds are young, straight from nest, most people just keep then in the wire cages or a cage like a double breeding cage. I have one cage that is about 90cm long about 35cm deep and about 45cm high and that is what some of my babies are in now and the have a show cage on one end. The other cage is about 70 ch long x 45cm deep and about 50 high.

Last year I joined to wire cages together for the babies, I took out one wall on each cage and made them into like long caged worked out well too.

Edited September 3, 201113 yr by splat

Thanks GB and Splat.

 

Some more photos of your birdroom would be great GB.

My breeding cages are timber with nest box on the inside of cabinet giving me some extra room.

 

Splat can you explain again your idea about the small flight then a large one.

 

How hot do these sheds get? Are they hot enough to kill your birds?

 

 

If you have the height and ventilation they are not bad, The birds can take heat better than they can take the cold.

My shed is completely insulated, it's lovely in the winter but I think it will be quite warm in the summer months.

It was 20c in my shed this arvo but that was very comfortable in there.

But it is hard to compare my birdroom with others because my door and wind both face west which is why it gets so hot, and that is why we are putting a veranda up to try and cut some of the afternoon sun out.

We had no choice when facing it that way, it was either west or south and south is worse for the wind.

okay here is my pics for you

 

take a look room wize good

light wise with sun roof on the sky light bad , but with doors open good

with out the shade cloth on the sky light great

heat wise get to 50 to 60 degree on hot day in Summer

the wood walls and roof took it back to 37 45 shade sale on top another 10 off thats controllable with right plan

good thing is it stays at 15 on cold nights

but in winter can drop to 4 in their

but cold doesn't hurt only draft

im happy to answer questions but ill send you my e mail

as this my last post here

had to get pics as i said

my shed faces north and makes no differences as im in a gully

wind rain from everywhere

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 3, 201113 yr by GenericBlue

I don't know what my room will get in the summer months but through this winter we just had it has been very comfortable in there never cold at all.

I haven't had my temp thing long but in the mornings about 8 am I have notice it ready 12c. and out side can be almost freezing.

Thanks so much Gb, Splat and Kaz, I appreciate your advise it has helped me greatly.

I think I'll go with that shed you suggested Kaz ( 3.7m x 2.8m).

 

I'll insulate the roof and build 2 flights one large one for adult cocks and hens and one smaller flight for juvenile birds after they have fledged.

 

I'll have enough room for 15 breeding boxes a cupboard for storage enough room left to move around comfortably.

 

I'll install 2 louvre windows and a wirly bird for ventilation plus a security screen door to the main opening.

 

I'll monitor the temperature and look at installing a second roof if temps get too high.

 

Will post some pictures and if all goes well I hope to have some nice young birds to show in early 2012.

 

Again thanks for your help guys.

Another suggestion..........to add extra roof height you can actually lay a couple of courses of bricks or blocks as a base and set the shed up on that....either have a step through or reset the door to make it work better.

I was going to do that Kaz.

 

Hey Kaz how do you do a false roof.

 

 

Hey Kaz how do you do a false roof.

 

You fit an extra roof above the existing roof......

 

bolt or screw down some c channel steel or metal.

 

and re-sheet that.

 

Photos of one of my aviaries with second roof

 

 

 

 

It makes a HUGE difference to the temperature in the aviary.

How would I go about gable roof . But I see what you mean though. But I reckon that would make a word of difference for mine roof too.

How would I go about gable roof . But I see what you mean though. But I reckon that would make a word of difference for mine roof too.

 

 

No different. You are creating a second roof with an airflow gap of around 6-8 inches. You use the steel beams for the spacer and a new roof made on that....with a gable you will need some ridgecapping to create the peak.

I suppose that you could also use treated pine posts and shadecloth over the top to shield the sun. The second roof doesn't need to be waterproof, you could then detach it in the winter. It would also be cheep.

I suppose that you could also use treated pine posts and shadecloth over the top to shield the sun. The second roof doesn't need to be waterproof, you could then detach it in the winter. It would also be cheep.

 

 

YEP but make sure your shadecloth is the highest percentage blockout one

Yes I used the shade cloth on the aviaries but found it that good. But better than nothing.

I already have extra peak thing on my birdroom because it was leaking, so these plumbers came and put it up for me I was to scared to say no Greg can do it, shy little me, lol anyway they ripped me off big time time, cost $30. for the part and $40 for a couple minutes work.

The only problem with my roof being a garden shed with no real supports in the roof, I wouldn't think I could climb up on it in the middle there because it just might cave in. So the problem wood be how to attach it enough, could do the side okay and reach in so far but it would have to be anchored well or the wind might just blow away my roof, lol.