RIP if you see this I am sure you can help me.

When I got my clear body cock I am sure someone told me not put the dark factor into them.

 

Like at the moment I have my (I think light green in colour) with a dark green hen, I am thinking a big mistake.

Anyway my claerbody has a fair bit of green through hi body. He also drops away at the tail so I need to take that into consideration.

I do not have many normal hens and I just got my albino hen back for a while but she is quite tiny.

 

To start with I need to get rid of the green through the body so i use inos , is this right.

 

I really want to breed the blue series so that's why I got an albino.

 

I have looked up on google and found out about breeding clearbodies ect but i couldn't find anything on colour, like the darkfactor etc.

I hope this makes sense

Any help would be great.

 

This is him, sorry bad photo in the breeding cage

 

and Dark green hen

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by splat

im not a clear body breeder although i am playing with some

 

i have a friend that breeds them and his are beautiful

he just got a clutch of cobalt clear bodys they are amaizing so i would say that the dark factor is no problem most his are grey and grey is what i am to breed also grey and blue so im thinking

that from seeing his birds that the dark factor does actually help with the breeding of them as you ca see how well your progressing with the actual variety needs

as your breeding splits to enhance features anyway i dont believe that it was a wrong pairing so long as you believe she will fix his faults

just if i was you i think the idea is to pair to a dark-marked (wings ) hen never use cinnamon and try breed your own grey based albinos as i have done to breed with the splits

make sure the bird is good then interlock the more finer points of the variety then like the fading colour extra thats what the albino breeding is to help with im to belive but as i said this is just what ive watched from others and their breeding of them

oviously if you can get a clearbody with perfict varierty look then doesnt matter how big or small grab it a its the way to better clearbodys

only breed best variety to best variety when breeding visual to visual so im told

 

good luck and mate breed you bino to a large grey if you can and get some split cocks bigger then her then breed them to the best hen for their features your bound to pop out one good albino hen then go from their

thats if you cant find a nice albino hen for your split clearbodys

 

try this by jim Hutton

Clearbodies

 

 

Developed from his talk to the 1997 Judges meeting in Bristol

 

Sex-Linked

The variety is sex-linked, which means its breeding habits are similar to any other sex-linked variety such as Cinnamon or Opaline. Hens are visual Clearbodies only and cannot be split for Clearbody. Cocks can, however, be either visual Clearbodies or carrying the Clearbody factor in a hidden form. The strange phenomenon with the Clearbody is the fact that they are dominant over Inos. When a Clearbody is paired to a Lutino or Albino you will get Clearbodies from the mating. Any Normal cocks produced will either be split Ino or split Clearbody but cannot be split for both. Only test mating will determine which factor is carried in the split form.

 

Sex-linked Expectations Cocks Hens Expectations

Clearbody Clearbody 100% Clearbodies

Clearbody Normal 50% Normal/Clearbody) cocks

50% Clearbody hens

Normal/Clearbody Clearbody 25% Clearbody cocks

25% Normal/Clearbody cocks

25% Clearbody Hens

25% Normal Hens

Normal Clearbody 50% Normal/Clearbody cocks

50% Normal Hens

Normal/Clearbody Normal 50% Normal/Clearbody cocks

50% Normal hens

 

Judging Faults

Not many judges will have yet had the experience of judging many, if any, Clearbodies. You will find time spent studying the provisional standard worthwhile. When judging Clearbodies here are some faults to look out for. Firstly, the colour which starts from the mask to the underside of the body and the rump should, in the Green series, be a bright yellow fading to a light suffusion and deepening in colour at the legs and rump. If the colour does not fade and/or deepen in the right places this is a fault.

 

The wings should be a deep black colour on a yellow ground. The flight feathers, on the wing, should be light grey. It is a fault if the flights are too dark. It is also a fault if the wing markings fade where the wing meets the rump. This spoils the look of the contrast between the flights and the wing markings. It is essential that the tail should be dark. A light coloured tail is a major fault. Clearbody spots should be large and evenly spaced and as dark as possible. Small spots should be penalized as normal. However light coloured spots are also a fault and should also be penalized. Like all varieties capping should be free from flecking. Where this exists it should be penalized. For Blue series Budgerigars, the above all equally apply but White should be substituted for Yellow. Now, there is an interesting breeding behaviour with Clearbodies. Not only are they sex-linked but they are also dominant to Inos. To complicate matters further, a Budgerigar cannot be split for both Ino and Clearbody. It can be either split Ino or split Clearbody. It is usually split for Clearbody, that being the dominant variety. I believe that the reason the cocks cannot be split for both the Ino and Clearbody factors is that they are both located on the same pair of genes on the sex-linked pair of chromosomes.

Must Not Fall Into The Spangle Trap

You can see that it is relatively easy to breed Clearbodies. However if we are not to fall into the same trap as we did with Spangles, we must be very selective in our future pairings. Clearbodies come in all the full spectrum of colours and varieties. There is no doubt, in my mind, that the dark factor Normals are the most striking. I have seen the Violet and it is beautiful. The White body shading down to the Violet rump is a beauty to behold. Opalines can be equally good, the body colour blending into the wings certainly looks very good. Whatever Clearbodies you choose try where possible to keep them pure.

 

One or two little tips for anyone thinking of breeding them. If the colour on the wings starts to fade it is time to introduce a Normal back into the stud. This should bring the pigment back into the wing colouring. Alternatively, if you notice that the wing markings are getting dark it is possible to lighten them by pairing the Clearbodies to Red-eyes for a couple of years. This has the effect of lightening the flight feathers more effectively than either Clearbody to Clearbody, or Clearbody to Normal. Similarly, if the breast of the birds is getting progressively darker it can be beneficial to introduce the Ino. This has the effect of improving the nice yellow or white breast, shading down to the rump.

 

Now the Budgerigar Society has produced a provisional standard it may not be long before we see classes on the show schedules and possibly, who knows, maybe a certificate one day.

 

Clearbody/Ino Expectations Cocks Hens Expectations

Ino Clearbody 50% Clearbody/Ino cocks

50% Clearbody hens

Clearbody Ino 50% Clearbody/ino cocks

50% Clearbody hens

Normal/Ino Clearbody 50% Normal/ cocks

(most /Clearbody, some /Ino)

50% Normal hens

(including some Clearbodies)

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by GenericBlue

Most people try not to put dark factors into yellow birds, as it makes the yellow a mustardy grey colour.

Same applies to the white series, dark factors can make it dull or greyer.

I personally find no difference, but I have noticed my grey-green TCB's are less brilliant looking then my light greens, although the light greens have more suffusion.

Ino's do help with the suffusion, as do opalines. As see your cock is already an oplaine though, so that doesn't matter.

Clearbodies to the standard may only contain opaline when being showed.

The link doesn't work Gb, it said the link has broken.

As for my pairing. I don't think this hen will improve much but at least she doesn't drop away from the tail.

 

I mainly put them together because I thought he was a dud and she was th only spare hen I had.

Earlier I put him with a sky blue hen from the same breeder on his advice as she is from his National winning bird and his top line but I got clear eggs, I know the hen is fertile so I thought he was useless BUT he now has 5 chicks with the dark green hen.

I also I bought a lutino cock from the same breeder which is from his top Lutino line that he has won Nationals from too. He is a big bird..BUT I needed a hen.

I have that lutino cock with a dark green hen and the first round they had 2 fertile eggs, but I fostered and I don't think they hatched well they hatched but they were the ones that died from yellow belly, lost 7 in a a week. They have 3 fertile now. ..HOPING

 

So maybe I will put the clearbody to that sky hen again.

 

My clearbody is split for ino too

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by splat

The link doesn't work Gb, it said the link has broken.

As for my pairing. I don't think this hen will improve much but at least she doesn't drop away from the tail.

 

I mainly put them together because I thought he was a dud and she was th only spare hen I had.

Earlier I put him with a sky blue hen from the same breeder on his advice as she is from his National winning bird and his top line but I got clear eggs, I know the hen is fertile so I thought he was useless BUT he now has 5 chicks with the dark green hen.

I also I bought a lutino cock from the same breeder which is from his top Lutino line that he has won Nationals from too. He is a big bird..BUT I needed a hen.

I have that lutino cock with a dark green hen and the first round they had 2 fertile eggs, but I fostered and I don't think they hatched well they hatched but they were the ones that died from yellow belly, lost 7 in a a week. They have 3 fertile now. ..HOPING

 

So maybe I will put the clearbody to that sky hen again.

 

My clearbody is split for ino too

 

 

well i took link away take look now i put writing for you

if hes split ino and shes not / blue you will have a chance at lute hen anyway also

i personally am breeding mine to dark factor not light but thats as i love the intensity of the colour fad from dark to light

Thanks I have read that article but it doesn't say anything about dark factor, well i don't think it does.

 

Yes the hen is split blue as she is the a full sister to the dark green hen you have.

She could be even carrying violet.

I have 4 chicks with dark eyes, I can tell one is green and one I am not sure and the other 2 are only tiny and I have a lutino hen chick.

She laid 9 eggs, the first 3 were fertile and then then next 4 were clear and the last 2 fertile. All ferile hatched, so 5 chicks.

Splat, just wanted to say what a handsome boy you have

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by Snoopy

Thankyou Snoopy

Hi Splatty,

 

My advice is to keep the dark factor out of your clearbodies. This advice is based on the current standard which calls for a "clear" body. The best way to think of it is that the body colour is meant to be the same as the mask colour.

 

The best way to subdue the body colour is with grey factor. As a general rule, albinos are better to work into your clearbodies than lutinos. Most lute breeders are trying to intensify the body colour. The addition of the dark factor helps to achieve this and when you use these dark factor carrying lutinos to breed clearbodies, you get clearbodies with too much body colour. Albino breeders on the other hand are trying to keep body suffusion to a minimum and therefore "properly bred" albinos would seldom be carrying dark factor and are most likely to be carrying grey factor. The one problem with introducung inos is knowing what they are masking - especially spangle as this seems to be popular among some inof breeders.

 

I have both green and blue (grey) series clearbodies. Many of the cocks are split ino. Unfortunately the lutinos that are produced from my clearbodies are a bit pale due to the absence of dark factor and the presence of grey factor. I have a ripper lute in the baby cage at present, but it won't mix it with the best ones because it is down on body colour. If only it was an albino!!

 

Rules of thumb for clearbodies: only use grey and grey green without dark factor (hard to tell - I know), Albinos are better than lutes in general, opaline is your friend as you get a bit more wash out of body colour and darker wing markings.

 

Cheers and good luck, PT

 

ps: I think it is a shame in some ways that we are restricted to trying to flush all of the colour from this variety just because somebody decided that is what the standard should be. I think it would be great if we could breed dark factor cleabodies or even violet clearbodies - for what it's worth!

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by chookbreeder9

Hi Splatty,

 

My advice is to keep the dark factor out of your clearbodies. This advice is based on the current standard which calls for a "clear" body. The best way to think of it is that the body colour is meant to be the same as the mask colour.

 

The best way to subdue the body colour is with grey factor. As a general rule, albinos are better to work into your clearbodies than lutinos. Most lute breeders are trying to intensify the body colour. The addition of the dark factor helps to achieve this and when you use these dark factor carrying lutinos to breed clearbodies, you get clearbodies with too much body colour. Albino breeders on the other hand are trying to keep body suffusion to a minimum and therefore "properly bred" albinos would seldom be carrying dark factor and are most likely to be carrying grey factor. The one problem with introducung inos is knowing what they are masking - especially spangle as this seems to be popular among some inof breeders.

 

I have both green and blue (grey) series clearbodies. Many of the cocks are split ino. Unfortunately the lutinos that are produced from my clearbodies are a bit pale due to the absence of dark factor and the presence of grey factor. I have a ripper lute in the baby cage at present, but it won't mix it with the best ones because it is down on body colour. If only it was an albino!!

 

Rules of thumb for clearbodies: only use grey and grey green without dark factor (hard to tell - I know), Albinos are better than lutes in general, opaline is your friend as you get a bit more wash out of body colour and darker wing markings.

 

Cheers and good luck, PT

 

ps: I think it is a shame in some ways that we are restricted to trying to flush all of the colour from this variety just because somebody decided that is what the standard should be. I think it would be great if we could breed dark factor cleabodies or even violet clearbodies - for what it's worth!

 

I have the most sweetest violet clearbody hen, and her sister won best in show. Violet makes the bird more eye catching, as it just dusts the back and rump which is allowed, Suffusion must only be in the body (I think...). I personally ignore the dark factors, as I don't some judges pick up on that.

Hi Splatty,

 

My advice is to keep the dark factor out of your clearbodies. This advice is based on the current standard which calls for a "clear" body. The best way to think of it is that the body colour is meant to be the same as the mask colour.

 

The best way to subdue the body colour is with grey factor. As a general rule, albinos are better to work into your clearbodies than lutinos. Most lute breeders are trying to intensify the body colour. The addition of the dark factor helps to achieve this and when you use these dark factor carrying lutinos to breed clearbodies, you get clearbodies with too much body colour. Albino breeders on the other hand are trying to keep body suffusion to a minimum and therefore "properly bred" albinos would seldom be carrying dark factor and are most likely to be carrying grey factor. The one problem with introducung inos is knowing what they are masking - especially spangle as this seems to be popular among some inof breeders.

 

I have both green and blue (grey) series clearbodies. Many of the cocks are split ino. Unfortunately the lutinos that are produced from my clearbodies are a bit pale due to the absence of dark factor and the presence of grey factor. I have a ripper lute in the baby cage at present, but it won't mix it with the best ones because it is down on body colour. If only it was an albino!!

 

Rules of thumb for clearbodies: only use grey and grey green without dark factor (hard to tell - I know), Albinos are better than lutes in general, opaline is your friend as you get a bit more wash out of body colour and darker wing markings.

 

Cheers and good luck, PT

 

ps: I think it is a shame in some ways that we are restricted to trying to flush all of the colour from this variety just because somebody decided that is what the standard should be. I think it would be great if we could breed dark factor cleabodies or even violet clearbodies - for what it's worth!

 

Thankyou very much Pete that is what I thought, so I have done the wron thing already. But that's okay at least now know and can learn from it.

Can I use what I have bred now if they are anygood from the dark green hen or not.

Thankyou very much Pete that is what I thought, so I have done the wron thing already. But that's okay at least now know and can learn from it.

Can I use what I have bred now if they are anygood from the dark green hen or not.

 

 

Of course. If she is only carries one copy of the dark factor gene (which I would suspect otherwise she would be an olive) then half of her chick won't carry the dark factor (assuming the cock is not dark factor).

I would suggest that any chick is better than no chicks and sort them out down the track.

 

Cheers, PT

Her father is a light green and her mother a violet.

Have no practical breeding experience with this variety, but I could try an talk to the local show clearbody breeders if you like Hear their take on the dark factor issue.

 

In regards to chookbreeder9's post, while i dont necessarily disagree with anything said - I would just like to point out that you will hear the very opposite of most of the advice given from certain breeders - depends who you talk to. I've heard lute breeders who say dark factor ruins lutes, some who say its makes them. I've heard grey green (based) lutes are the best, some say it makes it a yucky mustard. I've heard light green (based) lutes are the best yellow, i've heard olive green (based) lutes are the best lol.

 

I've heard it all I figure it really comes down to - try it out yourself, dont be afraid to try dark factor. You'll learn through breeding and knowing your birds and results for yourself what works. What works for you may be the very thing someone else said ruined their line of the same variety.

 

Having said that - theres surely gotta be something worth taking away from any advice

RIP if you see this I am sure you can help me.

When I got my clear body cock I am sure someone told me not put the dark factor into them.

 

Like at the moment I have my (I think light green in colour) with a dark green hen, I am thinking a big mistake.

Anyway my claerbody has a fair bit of green through hi body. He also drops away at the tail so I need to take that into consideration.

I do not have many normal hens and I just got my albino hen back for a while but she is quite tiny.

 

To start with I need to get rid of the green through the body so i use inos , is this right.

 

I really want to breed the blue series so that's why I got an albino.

 

I have looked up on google and found out about breeding clearbodies ect but i couldn't find anything on colour, like the darkfactor etc.

I hope this makes sense :nest:

Any help would be great.

 

This is him, sorry bad photo in the breeding cage

 

and Dark green hen

 

The same boy but phot take a few months back

Edited September 4, 201014 yr by splat

Splat I intend to put my two cents worth into this topic but have been busy doing assignments. Hopefully towards the end of the week things will be clear enough and I will jot down a few chicken scratchings for you. Heads up though at this point I will disagree on not using dark factor birds. I say go ahead. I used them and in fact most of my clearbodies I bred before were dark factored birds.

Splat I intend to put my two cents worth into this topic but have been busy doing assignments. Hopefully towards the end of the week things will be clear enough and I will jot down a few chicken scratchings for you. Heads up though at this point I will disagree on not using dark factor birds. I say go ahead. I used them and in fact most of my clearbodies I bred before were dark factored birds.

im glad you said that rip as i was begining to wonder about my knowledge , phew ...

as i said im useing dark factor in my clearbody breeding as ive seen fantastic rezults with it

and i also have seen some beautiful violet clearbodys where the rump its a spectacular violet and washing out to the needed colour dilution

rip i too look forward to your imput into this thread

Splat I intend to put my two cents worth into this topic but have been busy doing assignments. Hopefully towards the end of the week things will be clear enough and I will jot down a few chicken scratchings for you. Heads up though at this point I will disagree on not using dark factor birds. I say go ahead. I used them and in fact most of my clearbodies I bred before were dark factored birds.

im glad you said that rip as i was begining to wonder about my knowledge , phew ...

as i said im useing dark factor in my clearbody breeding as ive seen fantastic rezults with it

and i also have seen some beautiful violet clearbodys where the rump its a spectacular violet and washing out to the needed colour dilution

rip i too look forward to your imput into this thread

 

Thats basically what i said in my post - you'll hear all sorts of contradicting info on what varieties or colours to use. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) it is best to just find out for yourself because sometimes what didnt work for someone, might just get you ahead.

Hi All,

 

Good luck with your quest to breed dark factor clearbodies that conform to the exhibition standard.

 

"The Standard" says - General Body Colour: Yellow (Buttercup) or White, masking a standard colour that may show as a faint minimal suffusion in the body with more intensity over the rump and flank.

 

Yellow or white - not yellowy green or pale blue.

 

I have seen cobalt and violet clearbodies that are paler or washed out in the body colour, but they are not white as the standard calls for. Grey factor reduces the colour brining them closer to the standard.

 

Violet factor, on the other hand when incorperated into the green series does a good job of intensifying body colour without adding green suffusion. The bird that run 3rd at the Adult Shield this year was a violet light green clearbody.

 

You can breed then however you want, that is the beauty of the hobby, but if you don't want to get smacked about on the show bench, I would suggest keeping the dark factor out of them.

 

Cheers

 

PT

Edited September 7, 201014 yr by chookbreeder9

Thanks Chooky

That's mine aim is to breed the clear body (white or yellow), so that is why I asked you because I was sure you mentioned it to me at the auction.

So I don't know about other people here but I will be staying away from the dark factor as much as possible.

But as you were saying you can put the violet over the green, absolutley COOL as I have some nice violets.

So I can use these violets over my light green clearbody, is this right Pete and I shouldn't get suffusion and it will intensifying

the colour?

not sure i will do clearbodys now lol stick to my binos

Now I have the big headache of finding cock birds that are not split for cinnamon and opaline, ALMOST IMPOSSABLE.

Splatty,

 

Be careful with visual violets as they are dark factor + violet factor. What you need in the green series is violet factor + light green. So if you have violet skyblues then they could work with your clearbodies.

 

Don't get too carried away with the violet thing. I would concentrate on making them grey factor and opaline in either green or blue series.

 

Cheers

 

PT

Thanks Pete I will.

How do you go about using normal cocks when most are split for cinnamon :rofl:

Edited September 7, 201014 yr by splat