Does anyone else here us the wire cages as there breeding cabinets.

 

I hang them on the outside using hooks, and i notice that they seem to be on a slight slant. has anyone else experienced this and if so did they do anything to change it, or just leave it as is?

 

I find the only down fall with these cages is, that you have to unclip the breeding box to be able to change the seed hooper.

I use them but I've never had to unclip the breeding box to change the seed? My cages have a large door in the middle plus two small doors, one on each side. I have the nest box located at one side door and change seed and water through the large door. If you find the box hangs at a slant screw an eyelet into each corner at the door end of the box and attach a piece of wire bent into a hook to it, then hook the door end onto a higher part of the cagefront to help hold it straight and steady.

Does anyone else here us the wire cages as there breeding cabinets.

 

I hang them on the outside using hooks, and i notice that they seem to be on a slight slant. has anyone else experienced this and if so did they do anything to change it, or just leave it as is?

 

I find the only down fall with these cages is, that you have to unclip the breeding box to be able to change the seed hooper.

 

If you put a piece of wood on the nestbox facing the cage to take up your gap it should then sit straight. Mine sit really well and dont need it.

 

 

 

also as with MB I dont have a problem with nestboxes and seed hoppers. Have three doors.

Does anyone else here us the wire cages as there breeding cabinets.

 

I hang them on the outside using hooks, and i notice that they seem to be on a slight slant. has anyone else experienced this and if so did they do anything to change it, or just leave it as is?

 

I find the only down fall with these cages is, that you have to unclip the breeding box to be able to change the seed hooper.

 

If you put a piece of wood on the nestbox facing the cage to take up your gap it should then sit straight. Mine sit really well and dont need it.

 

 

 

also as with MB I dont have a problem with nestboxes and seed hoppers. Have three doors.

 

The slant it cause the bottom goes in closer to the cage, hence making the cage go on a slant. so i need to do something about the bottom of the box. would you suggest just putting the wood down the bottom, or just a screen in the bottom of the box to make it level?

I have the same as these cages but the bigger ones that have the dividers in them. Im trying this out to see how it goes having that setup. So they basically have two larger doors per cage, 2 smaller doors for the plastic feeders which i dont use, and a side access per cabinet.

Im thinking i shall hang all of the boxes off the side so then i can access the cage via the front. Does anyone have there cabinets on wheels? Is it bad if you have them on wheels so you can move them if you want to vacuum behind them???

I have those larger ones with the dividers too but I found them troublesome as I founf birds from the wrong pair would flirt through the divider For then time being I have taken the divider out and I'm using them as one large breeding cage, I too hang them off the side door on these ones. If you are careful about how you buy your boxes you can get ones with the door on opposite ends and that way you can have the doors all facing the front of the breeding cages and you won't have any trouble with access then. I plan to make some timber divider for the cages so they can't see the birds in the adjoining cage

 

Mine are on wheels and I guess from Kaz's photos that hers are too

Edited November 23, 200816 yr by melbournebudgies

I have those larger ones with the dividers too but I found them troublesome as I founf birds from the wrong pair would flirt through the divider For then time being I have taken the divider out and I'm using them as one large breeding cage, I too hang them off the side door on these ones. If you are careful about how you buy your boxes you can get ones with the door on opposite ends and that way you can have the doors all facing the front of the breeding cages and you won't have any trouble with access then. I plan to make some timber divider for the cages so they can't see the birds in the adjoining cage

 

Mine are on wheels and I guess from Kaz's photos that hers are too

 

In relation to the dividers, if i find that cause they can see each other birds are flirting with the other cage, i will buy some ply wood and get it cut to size so that it can just slide into the divider. wouldnt cost much to do this as ply wood is cheap.

Im pretty sure if you went to mister ply and wood, and bought a sheet and let them know what size it needs to be, that they would actually just them all to size for you and wouldnt charge you anything for doing so.

I shall pay extra attention to this.

I am going to put mine on wheels to so i can move them around.

I shall hang all of my boxes on the side of the cages, so then i can use the large doors for access for the seed.

I shall only have to change my seed i would say once a week max, as i bought the metal seed hooper without the catcher. it holds 500grams of seed.

What do you put on your drip trays? Newspaper?

 

With having the boxes on the side of the cages it then allows for plenty of light to every cabinet.

Yeah that's what I'm going to do I just can't be bothered this season when I know It'll all be easier next year as I'll be able to set it up properly. It is important to still check your seed every day as I have hoppers too but I find that some of them won't dig the old husks out to allow the fresh seed to flow into the bowl.

 

I use plastic backed absorbant sheets in my cages because I got a whole bunch free, when they run out I'll be forced to go back to newspaper.

Yeah that's what I'm going to do I just can't be bothered this season when I know It'll all be easier next year as I'll be able to set it up properly. It is important to still check your seed every day as I have hoppers too but I find that some of them won't dig the old husks out to allow the fresh seed to flow into the bowl.

 

I use plastic backed absorbant sheets in my cages because I got a whole bunch free, when they run out I'll be forced to go back to newspaper.

 

Do you find within a week that the trays are pretty full?

With the perch setup do you have the 2 perches in each side or just the one?

 

i saw a breeder today and he only had the one perch in each cage.

I empty the trays once a week and I find that is sufficient.

 

I always use two perches, it's better for the male to display, etc duing the early stages of breeding

The slant it cause the bottom goes in closer to the cage, hence making the cage go on a slant. so i need to do something about the bottom of the box. would you suggest just putting the wood down the bottom, or just a screen in the bottom of the box to make it level?I was suggesting you put the wooden spacer at the bottom to even up your gap. I have the same as these cages but the bigger ones that have the dividers in them. Im trying this out to see how it goes having that setup. So they basically have two larger doors per cage, 2 smaller doors for the plastic feeders which i dont use, and a side access per cabinet.Im thinking i shall hang all of the boxes off the side so then i can access the cage via the front. Does anyone have there cabinets on wheels? Is it bad if you have them on wheels so you can move them if you want to vacuum behind them???Mine are on castors for moving about and cleaning....works for me and the birds dont mind.

I empty the trays once a week and I find that is sufficient.I always use two perches, it's better for the male to display, etc duing the early stages of breeding

I do the same as MB

I empty the trays once a week and I find that is sufficient.

 

I always use two perches, it's better for the male to display, etc duing the early stages of breeding

 

 

Have you found any useful tips over the years of breeding?

Do you put your birds in the cages with the breeding boxes straight away?

 

Do you take the doors off when you hang the breeding boxes off the side? if not how do you keep the door up?

I take one side off and swing it to the side and that way if I need to take the box off for any reason I can easily just clip th door over the hole. I have been putting mine straight in with the boxes and if they don't show interest within a week I remove the box for a few days and then re-attach it

 

I'm only quite new to it all myself so my thoughts are only things that I have discovered in the past year basically by trial and error and listening to those wiser than myself. I've studied botany and zoology including genetics at uni so it makes it easy I think, because when someone expains something to me I find I pick concepts up pretty quickly and I have a fairly good basis for understanding nutrition, etc and then you just adapt it to suit the species (I keep a number of other parrot species as well)

I take one side off and swing it to the side and that way if I need to take the box off for any reason I can easily just clip th door over the hole. I have been putting mine straight in with the boxes and if they don't show interest within a week I remove the box for a few days and then re-attach itI'm only quite new to it all myself so my thoughts are only things that I have discovered in the past year basically by trial and error and listening to those wiser than myself. I've studied botany and zoology including genetics at uni so it makes it easy I think, because when someone expains something to me I find I pick concepts up pretty quickly and I have a fairly good basis for understanding nutrition, etc and then you just adapt it to suit the species (I keep a number of other parrot species as well)

Great idea with the door.Do you have any pics of how your cabinets are set up?Do you use the same boxes as Kaz with the sliding back?DId you use a hook, to hook on the boxes? Where on the box did you put the hook?

The slant it cause the bottom goes in closer to the cage, hence making the cage go on a slant. so i need to do something about the bottom of the box. would you suggest just putting the wood down the bottom, or just a screen in the bottom of the box to make it level?I was suggesting you put the wooden spacer at the bottom to even up your gap. I have the same as these cages but the bigger ones that have the dividers in them. Im trying this out to see how it goes having that setup. So they basically have two larger doors per cage, 2 smaller doors for the plastic feeders which i dont use, and a side access per cabinet.Im thinking i shall hang all of the boxes off the side so then i can access the cage via the front. Does anyone have there cabinets on wheels? Is it bad if you have them on wheels so you can move them if you want to vacuum behind them???Mine are on castors for moving about and cleaning....works for me and the birds dont mind.

I empty the trays once a week and I find that is sufficient.I always use two perches, it's better for the male to display, etc duing the early stages of breeding

I do the same as MB

From what i can see in the pictures, it looks like the frames for your cabinets are solid. is this correct?Mine are hollow just the frame.Where do you screen your hooks into the boxes?How far up do you have the dowel from the bottom of the door? Trying to make sure i put the hooks in the right area on the box. Shall be doing that tomorrow, so hopefully shall have eggs next week.

Mine cabinets are basically the same as Kaz's, I use the standard budgie boxes hanging on the side (as they have the door at the side of the box rather than the back) and I also have some which are kinda similiar to Kaz's which are mounted on the front. I'm using a bit of a mix thise season as I want to test out options so I can set everything up in a way that I feel will really suit me next season. The hooks are screwed in at the top of the front one on each side, you will need to work out where best to put them to have your boxes sitting in the correct position on your cages.

 

I hadn't even noticed that Kaz had solid cabinets for her cages, that's what I want to do. I have the tubular steel frames at the moment too

Edited November 23, 200816 yr by melbournebudgies

Mine cabinets are basically the same as Kaz's, I use the standard budgie boxes hanging on the side (as they have the door at the side of the box rather than the back) and I also have some which are kinda similiar to Kaz's which are mounted on the front. I'm using a bit of a mix thise season as I want to test out options so I can set everything up in a way that I feel will really suit me next season. The hooks are screwed in at the top of the front one on each side, you will need to work out where best to put them to have your boxes sitting in the correct position on your cages.

 

I hadn't even noticed that Kaz had solid cabinets for her cages, that's what I want to do. I have the tubular steel frames at the moment too

 

 

the great advantage with Kaz's system is all of the husks and dusk wouldnt go everywhere like our setup. Majority of it would be caught on the sides and end up down the bottom of the racking.

 

Do you put anything in the bottom of your boxes like shavings or anything like that?

I made some melamine units to hold my cages and they are also on wheels

Edited November 23, 200816 yr by KAZ

Kaz you are making me jeolous, that's exatly what I want!

 

Do you mean in the bottom of your nestboxes? I now use rolled oats for young babies and change to budgie seed when the babies are a few weeks old, have found this system to be brilliant.

Edited November 23, 200816 yr by melbournebudgies

I made some melamine untis to hold my cages and they are also on wheels

 

 

How much would you say each rack of 4 would have cost you to set up including the cages?

How much would you say each rack of 4 would have cost you to set up including the cages?

 

About $50 worth of melamine and each cage was $33

Edited November 23, 200816 yr by KAZ

I made some melamine units to hold my cages and they are also on wheels

 

Hello. just joined the forum. i really like what you have made here.

I have just purchesed 6 of those Breeding cages, and i would be keen to set my cages up like yours in the units you made, is it possible to give some more details on the constuction of these units???? measurements, supplies used.

 

thanks Jarryd

Hello. just joined the forum. i really like what you have made here.

I have just purchesed 6 of those Breeding cages, and i would be keen to set my cages up like yours in the units you made, is it possible to give some more details on the constuction of these units???? measurements, supplies used.

 

thanks Jarryd

 

I just made it up as I went along...no plans...just measured the cages and made the units to suit. I did however use melamine that was 1800 high by 450 wide and I also have vented the back so airflow can move through

 

KAZ any particular reason why you don't have the perches going from front to back? i thought you usually do..

 

KAZ any particular reason why you don't have the perches going from front to back? i thought you usually do..

I do have front to back perches. The earlier photos showed the perches that came with the cages. Now they all run front to back as I had to cut new ones from dowel. The original ones were plastic.

Glad to see I'm not going senile just yet...