Two hens from the 10 budgies I bought off my local breeder are fluffed up and panting. It started off just being one. I have read here somewhere that it might be because they are ready to lay? I called the breeder, he is away for a few days. I do not have an Avian Vet within a 400km radius! The hens in question are still eating and drinking. Also all the birds are going through a heavy moult, I have no idea if this is any help?

 

Thanks,

Trish.

Get them in a hospital cage with a warm light (25 - 40 watt globe) shining on them.

Give them a drop of avical directly to the beak and keep them quiet.

 

Do they have an egg bum? Do they have a dirty vent?

Signs of illness. Ready to lay would indicate a swelling at the vent showing an egg about to come.

lamp for warmth...hospital cage ASAP

Get them in a hospital cage with a warm light (25 - 40 watt globe) shining on them.

Give them a drop of avical directly to the beak and keep them quiet.

 

Do they have an egg bum? Do they have a dirty vent?

 

 

No dirty vent. Not sure about egg bum, I am too inexperienced. I have put them in their own cage, and a blanket on top. We made the breeding boxes on the weekend but did not get up to the hospital cage as I was waiting to recieve the cage fronts I ordered. I do not have Avical either. Hopefully they are o.k. till tomorrow and that the breeder has arrived home? I am so glad I have kept the new ones away from the rest, I just hope I have been cautious enough. I will try and find a lamp to put as close tot heir cage as I can. Should I move them away from the rest.I think it may be too late as they were all in together whan I first got them for 24 hours?

Keep a very close eye on the others and also avoid breathing feather dust, etc. The main worry in this situation is psitticosis

I would certainly make the decision to take them to the vet because if these 2 are showing signs of illness maybe the others ones will be on the way and you may loose the whole lot. :hap:

Trish is quite isolated compared to us big city folk :hap: Elly. A trip to an avian vet would just about have to be an overnight stay unless you wanted to drive all day.

 

If the vents aren't poopy yet you may have got it in time. Even if they perk up a bit tomorrow keep the light on them to help them recover. It would be good if you can get some organic apple cider vinegar and some real raspberry cordial to have in the cupboard for times like this. If they are still not looking any better by tomorrow it might be worth doing a ring around of all your local vets and seeing if anyone is atleast reasonably confident with birds. It might mean having to test a few out as some will say they are when they aren't really. One thing you can do is call a local poultry farm if there is one or even a local pigeon racing or poultry club and see who they recommend

Then maybe just a regular vet?

The birds in question are doing well today. We are making a Hospital cage as we speak, as it is an ultimate necessity. They are eating properly, pooping properly and the like and seem chirpy. I am wondering if change from Aviary to cage and then to another cage is to blame, maybe they are fretting a little. They are semi covered at the moment and it seems to be giving them comfort. I have started them on vitamins and am wondering if I should give them Psittavet powder that I obtained three weeks ago from the vet when buddy was ill, she only got one dose then passed away.

I know I may be minority but I wouldn't treat unless you really know what it is at this point it is a guess, if you had Buddy at the vet can't you take these 2 to the same vet?

I know I may be minority but I wouldn't treat unless you really know what it is at this point it is a guess, if you had Buddy at the vet can't you take these 2 to the same vet?

 

 

I will try the breeder first and he might have a vet that he goes to. The one that I took buddy to was the reason she died. Not a good ided at all

At this stage if they are looking substantially better I would keep them warm and let them recover without the psittavet if you can't get them to a suitable vet. There is something to be said for letting the imune system take over if it's already doing a good job if you ask me

At this stage if they are looking substantially better I would keep them warm and let them recover without the psittavet if you can't get them to a suitable vet. There is something to be said for letting the imune system take over if it's already doing a good job if you ask me

I agree.

At this stage if they are looking substantially better I would keep them warm and let them recover without the psittavet if you can't get them to a suitable vet. There is something to be said for letting the imune system take over if it's already doing a good job if you ask me

 

 

I think you may be right....the first hen that was unwell is looking so much better. Maybe whatever it is has a 3 day or so turnaround? I have given them a double dose of vitamins (says it is okay on bottle) and they are partially covered until the Hospital cage is done. I am keeping good hygeine practices and they are far away from the other birds. Thanks so much for all your help everyone and I'll keep you informed.

 

I am still waiting for cagefronts to be delivered but for now I have pulled apart a cage and used the front piece for the front of the hospital cage.

More often it is simply the stress of being moved that sets off something that was dormant. If the stress continues they will get worse but if you can control that stress and support their immune system there is a good chance they will recover well without the needs for drugs

More often it is simply the stress of being moved that sets off something that was dormant. If the stress continues they will get worse but if you can control that stress and support their immune system there is a good chance they will recover well without the needs for drugs

Exactly

sounds like things are getting better at your place. I know when I first got lip and len they did a very similar thing. I don't think avairy birds like being put into cages for very long I am really glad that they are on the improve! Good Luck with it all!

I just wanted to say thankyou again to everyone for their advice. The hens in question are much better. I think they were fretting after all that! The green hen has lost some feathers around her neck but this was the case since I got her. Here are some pics, as you can see they are no longer fluffed up too!

 

 

Edited November 5, 200816 yr by Neat

good to hear they are doing better

 

the YF grey is a nice looking hen too

great news!

Just pop this one in the post would you ? :bump:

 

Just pop this one in the post would you ?

 

 

 

I am a very lucky girl to have been given the opportunity (by the breeder I got these guys off) to start off with such nice birds.

Where abouts in Vic do you live Trish, My mentor for the budgies told he does't like to use antibotics on his birds unless it is the last chance he prefers to use something like sulfa D firstwhich is available from the pet store.

 

This is on our Vic BCV site it mite help

 

DISEASE

SYMPTOM

TREATMENT

 

Scaly face Fungus growth on beak, around eyes, legs & vent

Treat by covering with any ointment (Rawleys man & beast, vaseline or similar. One application every two days should clear it up. Also invermectin one drop on the back of the neck each year will prevent its occurance.

 

Canker of the throat Listless won`t eat, going light wasting of breast bone: stretching neck upwards hard to breath, cheesey deposits in throat.

TREATMENT: Emptryl: 5g per 5ltrs of water for 10 days. Mix fresh every 3 days as it loses its effectiveness after 4 days. Ronivet or sparmix as directed.

 

Sour crop Birds vomiting, throwing up seeds.

TREATMENT: Condes crystals: mix up a solution in water then dilute into fresh water to obtain a light pink colour. Treat for ten days. NOTE!!! Condes crystals is a poison.

 

Worms Going light including a weakness and emanciation, severe loss of condition, lowered production and perhaps diarrhoea.

TREATMENT: Nilverm or aviverm 3% solution in water 10/12ml in a litre of water or as manufacturers directions. Give second dose 28 days later. There are many more worming mixtures on the market to choose from.

 

Enteritis Green diarrhoea, stained green around the vent area. Usually from mice. Also a milder type. TREATMENT:Terrimcin: 1/2g per litre of water. Or as directed depending on strength. Treat for ten days. Biomav B 1 level teaspoon per 100ml of water.

 

Coccidiosis

Intestinal Coccidiosis Dropings brick red due to massive internal bleeding microbe burrows into stomach lining. Birds usually die within 4 to 5 days.

TREATMENT: Sulphonamide drugs Sulphaquinoxaline (Embazine): Tolturazil (Baycox): Purley Coccidial: Mibriausen: Trimidine: Trimsul: Trimethoprim/Sulphonamide anti biotic as well as coccidial: Dosage 4g per 5ltrs of water for 5 to 10 days. Change daily.

 

Psittacosis

(Parrots` Disease .

TREATMENT: Oximav B Replaced by Doxycline: Baymil and Psittavet.

Dosage as directed depending on strength.

 

Air sack mite Asthma type wheeze

TREATMENT: Place bird in cage and cover cage with cloth. Lift corner of cloth and spray for 2 seconds with Pea Beau, Mortine or similar spray. Leave covered for 10 seconds.

 

Red mite and bird lice. .

TREATMENT: Invermectin one drop to the back of the neck once a year.

Sprays: Pea Beau, Mortine: Bio-mal: Slay etc.

Spray birds, perches, cracks & crevices.

Dusting powders as for sprays.

 

Megabacteria Avian Gastric Yeast Can be diagnosed from droppings. Diarrhoea weight loss fluffy & quiet.

Control with citric acid 5gms in 5ltrs of water.

You can also use citrus fruit.

TREATMENT: use Amphotericin B. Magabac S. fungilin.

 

French moult Chicks lose feathers in or after leaving nest. In severe cases they fail to grow any feathers, except for some down feathers.

The virus hides in the cells of the immune system. Prevention is the best treatment. Clean bird room, breeding cages nest boxes with a solution containing sodium hypochlorite (Demestos or similar product). Using this cleaner will reduce the incidence of french moult by 95%. Research carried out by Sydney University has developed a vaccine for prevention of french moult. however due to lack of funds it has not been finalised. ($50,000 required to finish the work for commercial release.