Hi DrNat - I dont pretend for a minute to be knowledgeable in breeding Lacewings, I have judged them and breed a few.

The reason I took on Lacewings was that they are compatible with Cinnamons (most of my birds have the cinnamon factor). Most of the work I have done with Lacewings has been to put modern feature on them, face, spots, deep mask, directional feather etc. This has been at the expense of the variety. This year I have purchased a lacewing hen, who has really good markings, deep well defined markings, but is lacking in head feature. I will use her to the best Lacewing cock birds to try to improve the markings and maintain other features.

I haven't had a problem with body suffusion before, but I understand the use of Grey factor birds will help clear this up. I would also keep to using Normals, Cinnamons and opalines to improve lacewings. Hope this helps.

Daz- about the watson birds. Almost all my birds are related back to watson birds. Have they worked for me, I would have to say Yes. Initially when I bought them in, they went backwards, but I have keep breeding with them and in the past 2 years results speak for themselves.

I have been breeding budgies this time around since 2000, my initial stock was from a local breeder, which was pretty competitive. I made the decision in 2002, with the same local breeder to upgrade our stock. We visited Gary Watson with the view of buying in some modern feature, all we could afford was 1 cock bird each. At the time we both thought his was the best birdroom the country that we had visited. (there is a breeder profile on the BSNSW website)

In 2003 we purchased a pair each, and 2004 2 cock birds each. All the birds purchased were very non-visual birds, but were from exceptional families, this was all we could afford and were prepared to spend on budgies.

For the first couple of years, the birds produced rubbish, very small and no feature. We kept at it and used these rubbish birds because of there background, we paired all the birds genetically, and used as many different combinations as we could. We regularly swap birds from this line, but no new birds have been introduced up until this year. This year is the first year I have culled very hard.

Hopfully by early August we will see if my plans have worked out or not.

 

As I said on this post http://forums.budgiebreeders.asn.au/index....mp;hl=throwback

 

It is very hard to breed quality from birds that do not show quality visually.

 

Are the new introduced birds Watson? maybe some more Watson blood is needed, but even so, you still need to pair visually. Pairing because of family background has never work, for me anyway.

 

I admire you determination! and would love you to prove me wrong!

 

Goodluck

Hi Heathrow...

 

I recently purchased a white normal male lacewing and two yellow opaline lacewing hens. The hens are sisters, the male is from interstate and not directly related.

 

I am breeding them together to generate numbers of lacewings and sharing the offspring with another member of my club.

 

In your experience, what is the best outcross for lacewings to darken the wing markings but keep the body colour clear of suffusion?

 

What varieties should be kept out of lacewings for show purposes.

(Your hair would probably curl if I told you about all my experiments and composite varieties).

 

If it was me, I would put the white lacewing cock to a Normal grey or cobalt or mauve hen, of show quality.

This will give you Normal/Lacewing cocks and Lacewing hens.

The two yellow lacewing hens I would put to Normal dark green or olive cocks. This will give you Normal/Lacewing cocks and normal hens.

Then cross then all over the following year. ( Except the normal hens )

The use of dark factor birds helps with markings. Pairing white lacewings with grey helps avoid suffusion. You can also use cinnamon, but they must be good well marked ones!

 

Varieties not to use Lutino, Albino, Clearwing, Spangle, any pied variety, fallow, Crest, Black eyed yellow and white.

 

Goodluck!

What is your ring code throwback?

What is your ring code throwback?

 

In the 90's it was 24D now it's CKD

Edited June 1, 200816 yr by throwback

Hi Throwback - I should have added that one of those birds that i said was rubbish, has produced me a Young bird shield class winner in 2006, a 7th place at 2007 Nationals, and is grandmother of a National winner 2007 and 3rd place 2008.

I point I was trying to make is when purchasing birds we are to hastie to get rid of them, when the progeny dont come up scratch in the first year.

Non visual birds can be a great help if used correctly, how many times have we walked into a Champions birdroom and looked at their pairings and thought Why? are they using a budgie like that. Only to told how important that particular bird is in there breeding program, when we would not have used that particular bird.

Food for thought.

Thanks Heath.

 

I have based my spangle line on two hens from Dave Frampton. A cock bird from Greg and Jean Horrobin and a Cock bird from Kathy Krang. 1st year was very successful with Champion young birds of show and a number of CCs.

 

I have expanded into Recessive and Dominant pieds through Dave Ganzer and Yellowfaces from a Yellowface Grey from a pairing of Childer and Dunk. Interesting now that Ken Dunk has won his first nationals.

 

The Recessives have been strengthened by a Hen bird from Alister Holmes at last years auction. The resulting chicks have shown nice improvements in head features.

 

The Spangle line is about to get a lift from 4 outcrosses from Gary Armstrong.

 

As you can see it is getting a bit of a mishmash of birds. I even have a spangle grey cock given to me that is a Ken Seagrott bird.

 

Last year the birds worked well together giving me 7 trophies at a March show this year. One for Best Young bird - novice and one for Best Any Age bird - Novice. Hopefully they will mix well again this year and I can take the next step up in quality.

 

I am interested in the fact that you persisted with the lines. Many would have given up and not realised that some lines take a generation or two to "click".

M. Chidel , J. L'Estrange, Welshman Family, Flanagan & Shepperd.

The list goes on and on , there are some top class birds out there .

Hi Throwback - I should have added that one of those birds that i said was rubbish, has produced me a Young bird shield class winner in 2006, a 7th place at 2007 Nationals, and is grandmother of a National winner 2007 and 3rd place 2008.

I point I was trying to make is when purchasing birds we are to hastie to get rid of them, when the progeny dont come up scratch in the first year.

Non visual birds can be a great help if used correctly, how many times have we walked into a Champions birdroom and looked at their pairings and thought Why? are they using a budgie like that. Only to told how important that particular bird is in there breeding program, when we would not have used that particular bird.

Food for thought.

 

Hi Heathrow

I neglected to welcome you to the forum! So Welcome!!

It get's back to knowing your birds I suppose. As all my birds are new to me, as I'm starting out again after a spell of 13 or so years it's yet to be seen as to what's in them.

I have kept them together in there lines, Gazzard to Gazzard, Kent to Kent, etc, etc.

I'm in for the long haul.

 

You have had some great show results. I was never really into showing. Something that used to annoy the *** out of our club president at the time! "You need to start benching your birds" he would say. Maybe next year! I would reply. I never had the time. I would enter our local event and win best in class and a best this, best that. Nothing to really get excited about!

 

I have a few Watson birds so will post what result I get in the next 3 or 4 months.