I have a pair that I put into a breeding cage a week and a half ago that aren't showing much interest in the nest box or each other. They are usually on opposite perches. The nest box was checked out once (the shavings were disturbed) but that's about it. How long do you normally give them to bond in their breeding cages before moving them back to a flight or mate swapping... aka how long is too long? They are within audible range of my flight cages and are always chatting back and forth between the cages but do not have any visual stimulation due to the current layout of the room they are in. They get along but just not showing any of the normal bonding/mating behaviors.

 

I'm new to breeding and my other pair are doing great, but this pair (Dawn & Dusk) aren't bonding yet and wasn't sure how long this process usually takes in a breeding cage and is there anything I can do to help the process along? and how long do I let them stay before I take them out and put them back into their flight cage, or will giving them some flight time outside of the breeding cage help?

 

Any tips or assistance is appreciated

Edited November 21, 200717 yr by Ravengypsy

Hi there I know most of our breeders are sleeping but here is some information on how you can tell if there is a bond.

Oh and Norm usually comes on in (my) afternoon (Laughing out loud) so he will probably see and respond since he does have experience too.

 

This is from our FAQ section by Daz

 

Bonds are formed outside the breeding season in the aviaries and once formed they stay together throughout the year. The cock and hen recognise each other visually.

 

There are a number of mate specific behaviours to look for:Mates sit together significantly more often than with non-mates.

All males preen more frequently when they are next to their mate.

Hens preen more often while sitting next to non-mates.

Courtship singing is not a mate specific behaviour, however, the courtship song, is followed by courtship feeding more often when the mate has been addressed in song.

Beak touching is the most frequent mate specific behaviour.

Begging for food by hens is absolutely mate specific behaviour.

Cocks feed their own mate significantly more often than non-mates.

The only time that a male is fed by a hen is when he is sick.

Hens are inhibited from showing aggression toward a mate.

Cocks also show a beak thrust inhibition towards mates.

Hens are not inhibited from showing aggressive behaviours toward non-mates.

 

It doesn't really mention how long but when I get a answer from those who are experience I will add to this topic .

I would leave a pair together for 3 weeks and if nothing happens return them to the flights. I rarely have nothing happening though.

Things to consider....

Location within the house or birdroom of your breeding cabinet......

How and where the nestbox is situated within the breeder cabinet.....

Size and type of breeder cabinet.....

Perches ( type and location ).....

it's better to have the breeding cages in low traffic areas correct?

it's better to have the breeding cages in low traffic areas correct?

Yes and NO.Low traffic areas so less stress of people and movement around them. But also there is such a thing as too quiet. Birds tucked away in a bedroom may also have it TOO QUIET and too quiet is a sign of danger to a budgie which can make them apprehensive and nervous.My budgies in breeder cages are what I call BOMB PROOF. They get used to all kinds of noises and interference. I vacuum there cages out once a week, and of course there is the aviary noise. Birdroom being right next door

You can put your breeding budgies in a well used area, but still cover the cage on maybe 2 sides, especially where the nestbox is. That works.

Edited November 21, 200717 yr by KAZ

in those three weeks should they stay in the cages or should I be okay to let them out to fly?

 

currently I have the breeding box in my living room, which is where my computers are and has the most going on... the other bird cages are in the bedroom right now which is the next room over and you can hear the birds in both rooms. But the breeding cages are tucked into the back corner of the living area. I always have some type of music on in the room if no one is home, and they are all used to me vaccuming around them with my hand held (gotta love wood floors).

 

i'm going to be building a bird room in a few months with an indoor aviary and new (wider) breeding cages in there but still waiting on the finances to do that. here is my current setup: will these boxes provide enough security to allow them to want to breed in the room they are in?

 

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x271/ra...es/000_2409.jpg

Edited November 21, 200717 yr by Ravengypsy

All looks good from what I can see. Do they have plenty of light there or is it a darker area of the room ? Can they be located near a window ? Can you put the other bird cages in the same room, so the breeders can see and hear them ?

RE letting them out to fly...I cannot speak for pet owners, but I believe a breeder needs to focus on the idea of breeding, so I wouldnt let them out. Others may disagree with that.

Edited November 21, 200717 yr by KAZ

thanks for the help... I've made some changes in location after thinking this out a bit more and we'll see if that helps. I now have an official "bird room" with alot of artificial "natural" uv lighting.

 

Here in my local area, all the avairys are in the basements due to weather and daily insecticide spraying by the city outdoors... (I have a finished room with insulation and good lighting in my basment that I convered for them) so I talked to another breeder locally who directed me to what lighting to use to give them the correct natural lighting for Vitamin D3 production... an avian full spectrum light fixture. There are also two basement windows in their new room, so that gives some extra daylight as well. Also the new arrangment will allow them to have visual as well as the vocal stimulation from being in the same room as the non-breeding birds (opposite walls to face each other), and added a CD player to give them some quiet background noise. And I moved their breeding cages up a bit higher so that should help as well. Hopefully this will make a difference.

 

My hubby will be building a 4' x 6' aviary in the room and a junior flight cage within the next few months and so it made the 'bird room' more feasable. Thanks for the input, maybe this will make a difference.

 

Also, how can you tell they are "entering breeding condition"... as I know the brown crusty cere is usually at the end of their breeding condition?

Also, how can you tell they are "entering breeding condition"... as I know the brown crusty cere is usually at the end of their breeding condition?

A lot of show breeders hang up a piece of wood with holes in it exactly like nestbox entries...when a bird keeps going over to it and through the nestbox holes they know they are ready. The cere colour isnt always a good indicator as often a bird will come into "condition" within days of being with a boy they like