To cut a long story short, my daughter's first budgie died (was a lovely tame female) and we bought a new budgie (young bird).

We made the mistake of putting the new youngster in with our older (partly trained) male budgie. He taught the youngster to be afraid of us.

Due to illness and other family situations at that time (and for the best part of the next ten months) we were unable to put the time in to hand train the youngster and to retame the older bird.

I have heard of a couple of methods of taming an older bird. This bird is now approximately 12 months old.

The older budgie died a few months ago.

I am uncertain of how to tame "Snowflake" as we are still very much learners with birds (have done alot of reading etcera as to their needs). I feel sorry for Snowflake, as he/she is in the cage all the time. We want him/her to enjoy us and vice versa.

I would like the advice of people who have tamed older birds.

Thank you.

Budgie Owners Mum.

I believe the steps of taming an older bird would be the same as a younger bird but it will most likely take more time.

 

A wonderful site to review for taming is www.budgietalk.com, you can use those same steps but don't proceed with the next until the first is completed.

 

Do you have pics we love pics :bluebudgie:. If you have more questions let us know, I am sure others will come on too with advice.

I believe the steps of taming an older bird would be the same as a younger bird but it will most likely take more time.

 

A wonderful site to review for taming is www.budgietalk.com, you can use those same steps but don't proceed with the next until the first is completed.

 

Do you have pics we love pics . If you have more questions let us know, I am sure others will come on too with advice.

 

Thank you for replying. I will check out the budgietalk site. This is my first time ever on a forum. My daughter's budgie looks like your "Pretty". Take care. Budgie Owner's Mum.

I believe the steps of taming an older bird would be the same as a younger bird but it will most likely take more time.

 

A wonderful site to review for taming is www.budgietalk.com, you can use those same steps but don't proceed with the next until the first is completed.

 

Do you have pics we love pics :ausb:. If you have more questions let us know, I am sure others will come on too with advice.

 

Thank you for replying. I will check out the budgietalk site. This is my first time ever on a forum. My daughter's budgie looks like your "Pretty". Take care. Budgie Owner's Mum.

 

Lovey, thanks for your reply. ... so far the only one. I couldn't access the budgie talk site.

Do you have any more information? The Two methods that I have heard of are diametrically opposed:

1. gently tame bird over a long period using the "put your hand in slowly etcera until the bird gets used to it and finally hops onto your finger"

2. Catch the bird and hold gently but firmly until it calms down (for 15 - 20 minutes). Repeat this daily until bird is tamed.

If anyone else can help me out, it would be very much appreciated.

budgie owners mum

I'm only a beginner (in that it's been a long time between budgies and I'm learning new things every day), but I'm quite sure birds generally do not like to be caught and held.

 

The first suggestion of gentle familiarisation and finger-training is the best option. :ausb:

The 2nd suggestion will just terrify your bird.

The site is up now www.budgietalk.com here is the article from the site.

How to Tame Your Budgie

 

 

Covered in this Page: Taming a Young Budgie and Taming an Older or More Skittish Budgie

 

 

The amount of time it takes for either of these methods to work depends on the budgie. The first method is generally the fastest but no matter how you go about it, taming a budgie can take weeks or months. With an older, frightened bird it can even take years. Sadly, there are even cases where the bird just might never be as tame as you hope. In any case, it's your responsibility to give your pet a wonderful, caring, secure home. Fortunately, most budgies (even ones that seem hopelessly wild) become tame fairly easily if you're calm and consistent.

 

Taming a Young Budgie

This method will work best on a budgie whose wings are clipped. Have someone experienced (preferably your avian veterinarian) show you how to properly clip a budgie's wings. Clipping too much can cause the bird to fall like a rock and become injured. Clipping a blood feather could lead to serious or fatal blood loss. Also, this method works best on a young budgie. If you are going to try this with an older bird, be especially cautious about signs of stress and fear. If the bird doesn't calm down after a few minutes, return it to its cage and try the method outlined for older budgies instead.

 

You'll need a wash/face cloth, a bird-proofed bathroom, and about 15 minutes. That is, if all goes well and the budgie doesn't seem terrified after a few minutes. (If your bathroom isn't suitable, read through this section and apply the concepts to use in a safer area.)

 

Many people are really against the "capture" method of taming budgies but the way I see it, if you've got a bird that freaks out when your hand goes in the cage it's impossible to just never freak the poor thing out. You'll have to remove it to clean the cage sometimes so what's wrong with removing it for a few minutes to see if it will tolerate some training? If your budgie doesn't calm down you can (and should) put it back in the cage.

 

Gently catch the budgie in a wash cloth, take it to the bathroom, and lay out the cloth in your sink (dry sink of course). Kneel next to the sink (or sit on the toilet near it if your bathroom is set up that way) and leave your arm stretched out and rested near the bird. I tend to lay my head on my other arm sideways as if I'm resting so that I'm not just sitting there staring it in the eye like some sort of hungry predator. I try to keep my face as level with the budgie as possible. Sometimes I'll close my eyes as if I'm taking a nap--anything to not appear like I'm interested in a budgie meal. Don't move, just watch it for about five minutes and if it doesn't seem to get any calmer about the situation it's probably better to return it to the cage the same way you got it out. If it seems to be handling the situation pretty well just stay put. Watch it, talk to it softly and all that good stuff. Don't force it to do anything. When/if it flutters to the floor, gently try to get it to step up onto your hand. If it won't step up by itself after fluttering to the floor, press your finger against its tummy or, if necessary, gently scoop it up in your hands but don't close them around the bird. Cup them around it and once it's on your hands open them so you're holding them almost flat (bird doesn't feel so trapped that way) then slowly lift your hands high in the air (about eye level). Most of the time they realize--"Wow... I'm HIGH UP! This is just what I wanted!!!" and they start understanding that the hands are the magical rescuers. This way, any time the bird flutters to the floor, you're going to be teaching it that your hands are rescuing it, not hunting it.

 

My violet demon hated my hands until she fluttered to the ground a couple of times. She quickly caught on and I actually had a little trouble getting her off my finger into the cage! If my other birds are out on the playgym and they get spooked and flutter to the floor, they'll look all over the place for the "magic hand elevator" to lift them back up to the gym. And Piper will actually seek out my entire body. The other day she fluttered off the play gym and before I knew it, she was sitting on my toe. Then she scurried up my leg and hopped on the desk. If I happen to be standing up when she's on the ground she'll follow me around until I pick her up. I can't really take credit for how tame Piper is though. She's been great since day one! I wish I could clone her.

 

This is how I've tamed every one of my birds (except Piper) and so far none of them seemed traumatized by it in the least. You've got more of a challenge though if you have two birds. Are their wings clipped? If not, you've got even more of a challenge ahead of you. Just work with them one on one away from the cage and away from each other. Birds pick up a lot from each other so if one freaks, the other's most likely to freak out as well. ("OMG I'M SCARED TOO WHAT ARE WE SCARED OF??")

 

And be confident! Don't be skittish about being bitten and don't react to any bites. Just let them sit and grind away at your flesh for a while. Smile on the outside and curse on the inside. :grbud:

 

Annnd of course, if the bird is just plain freaked out and not calming down, stick with the slower cage method. If each training session is absolute terror things will only go backwards.

 

Remember, be calm, quiet, soothing and don't push the bird too hard. Think of how a predator might act towards the bird and be the opposite. Don't react to bites, be confident and be as alert as possible to the bird's reactions so that you can carefully judge if he needs to be returned to the cage.

 

Each situation is going to be a bit different. For instance, your bathroom may not be the safest place to try this. With that in mind, modify these steps to suit you and your budgie's needs but stick to the concepts I explained to try and communicate to your budgie that you aren't a predator trying to hunt him.

 

 

Taming Your Older (and/or more skittish) Budgie

If your budgie responds badly to the method listed for younger birds or if you're just not comfortable with such an aggressive technique this method may work better for you.

 

The general idea is to make your bird comfortable with your presence and work up to making him/her comfortable with your hand. Spend as much time near his cage as possible but do it passively. Read a book near him (read it out loud even) or do your homework near the cage. Don't move the cage around, just make sure it's placed in an area where you and your family are going to be spending a lot of time. A living room or family room is ideal. Your bird will get used to the sights and sounds around him and eventually you can start to hand train him.

 

You'll have to enter his cage every day to refill food and water and to freshen the liner at the bottom. Do this calmly and quietly. Resist the temptation to chase after him and pet him. Most budgies don't like to be pet anyway. If you can go about changing the food and water and cleaning the cage without the bird flapping about wildly, you should move on to placing your hand in the cage for a few minutes at a time. Just leave it there several times a day. Don't move your hand towards him, just let him get used to your hand being around. If he has a favorite treat, hold it out to him but don't try to force him to take it.

 

When the day comes that he finally accepts the treat from your hand you can begin trying to get him to step up onto your finger. Put your hand in his cage as usual but slowly move a finger toward his chest. If he stays in one place, gently press your finger against his chest. He should naturally step up onto your finger. Afterwards, he may flutter off to another part of the cage. If that happens, don't press the issue, just try again the next day. If he stays on your finger let him stay as long as he's willing (or as long as possible) and talk to him softly. Don't try to remove him from the cage at this time. If for some reason you have to stop the training session before he's decided to leave your finger, don't abruptly force him off. Just put him near the closest perch and let him climb off himself. If he stays, press his body gently against a perch and that will prompt him to step off.

 

Once you can get your bird to step up in his cage reliably, you should try moving him around the cage on your hand a bit. Move your hand slowly while he's perched on your finger so that he can get used to being moved by you. If he jumps off, see if you can get him to step up again. If he's too scared, end the session. You don't want him to get too nervous about being on your finger so if he's not ready to be moved around, don't press the issue. You don't want to undo the progress that has already been made. You can try again at a later date, once he's more comfortable.

 

When your budgie becomes comfortable with being moved you might be able to allow him out of the cage. First of all, make sure that the room he's in is completely bird proof. Doors and windows should be shut, other pets securely locked away, and anyone else in the house should be informed that your bird might be coming out and that they should watch their step and alert you before opening a door or window. Access to all other rooms should be cut off. All this is especially important if your bird is flighted. It takes very little time for a serious or fatal accident to happen so use common sense and don't assume that your bird is going to be okay. They are very small and very quick.

 

Chances are, if you have your bird step up and try to bring him out of the cage yourself, he's just going to hop off your finger the moment he sees it going out the door. Don't get frustrated if this happens, it's a scary feeling for him! Just sit quietly near his cage, do your own thing and keep his door open for a while. Place a treat right outside his door or clip it near the opening just to spark his curiosity. Don't press the issue, just let him do what he's comfortable with. Eventually, he's going to venture out that door and check out the world outside. The important thing is to assure him that the world outside is interesting, fun, and safe.

I heard that to tame older birds you hold them to yourchest and let them run through your hands.

kt

Depending upon your situation and how much time you are willing to spend trying to tame this bird, I would suggest the second method in the post lovey posted up from the website. Even so, there is no guarantee she will ever want to learn to sit on your finger. If she is clipped it will be easier to tame her, but if you are against that for any reason there is still hope. Be aware that it may take months. But if your budgie lives 10 years, a few months up front is not really very long at all, is it?

 

If she never tames down and perches on your finger you can still enjoy her, and she may become "tame" in other ways. At the risk of boring everyone who has read the story before I will tell you about one of my birds. Those who have read it before just skip down to the next post...

 

I bought Skittles from a pet store, and guess she was about 6-8 months old when I got her. She was meant to be a companion to my other bird, a male who had been my only budgie for a year and a half. He was tame. Once I got her home, I rapidly formed the suspicion that she had somehow either been teased, traumatized, or mistreated in some way at the pet store because she was deathly afraid of hands. She came partially clipped (it was growing out) and even though I could have caught her if I had wanted to, it was apparent it would have completely terrified her. So after her month of quarantine, I gave up trying to hand tame her and introduced her to the other bird. To make a long story short, she is somewhere between 4 1/2 and 5 years old now, still afraid of hands, but will land on any other part of my body, preen my hair and eyelashes, allow me to feed her from my hand (even very small bits of food), and goes back in the cage when I tell her to. On the rare occasions I need to catch her, I can hold her without her trying to sever all my appendages from my body. She doesn't like it, but she knows she can escape at any time because I don't hold her tightly, and I think that is why she doesn't struggle anymore. There is no need for me to have her perch on my finger at all. I think she is more tame in some aspects than my other 3 birds (her children) who have been handled regularly since they were in the nest box. It depends upon what your expectations are. I found when I dropped any expectations of how I thought she should be, it was easier to create a bond that to me is way better than being finger-tame. Every so often, she will do something new that shows me she trusts me. But she won't perch on my finger for any amount of millet in the world.