paulie

Martine Your garden looks a bit like mine. Every ting you have grown looks great. I grow much of the same and give some as a pot full of mixed immature grasses and full flower heads as you picture. I will also give them the whole plant to nibble on and forage in. I also use alfalfa sprouts and semi mature plants as well as steam cut lucern chaff. Its all the same plant at different stages of its life cycle Spinifex will really only grow under specialised desert conditions and the seed needs to be exposed to extreme temperatures such as those produced in a wild fire. Bloody hot. Not something I would attempt to grow in a cold to temperate to subtropical area. Unless you can recreate the extreme desert conditions, 2degC to 43degC on a daily basis but must not freez 10% humidity max and a fire that burns at the correct temp to allow seed germination. P.S. I don't specifically buy seed to germinate, I simply use the seed varieties that I feed the birds. And yes they go nuts over the fresh stuff

Mine trample over each other all the time. nest of 8 when the youngest hatches the oldest will be 16 days old and I've had no problem with the youngest being trampled. Just make sure it has been fed within 24 hrs of hatching. if not it might need a feeding kick start.

Hi Martine Im no expert but here goes. Your cock bird looks to be Yellow face T2, Clear flight pied Hen is ino Chick is Yellowface T2, grey + Clearflight pied/ split to ino. I am taking a guess but I think that the diluted nature of the chicks colour comes from the fact that the only thing colour wise that the hen has contributed is ino therefore NO additional genetics to offset the natural dilution of colour that occurs with the YF mutation. (this is a guess and cant back it up or dispel my little theory at this time) All of my current YF chicks cary Df of violet + Sf of grey so my colours are at the other end of the scale to this chick. food for thought paulie also I dont think full opaline as a visual trait but the cock does display an opalescent trait in the wings

21feet if i saw that bird bird i would grab it. it is an interesting bird.

thanks robyn Rhiannan if you want to discover what genetics this bird carries id go with a green normal hen un-split if possible. I havnt yet bred with one of these mixes so am not certain how the offspring will look. There will be a large variation of traits from him alone I am getting this sort of combination from a; Cock, Olive Violet, Opaline slit to Violet spangle Hen, Dark blue normal split Violet YF T1 The YF T1 Df Violet normal pictured is 1 of these chicks picture doesn't really do it justice

This is a YF T1 Rhiannan That's quite a combo. Looks very similar to a couple of birds that came out of the same clutch as this YFT1 Violet Normal. Combination, Well here goes YF T1,some spangle,some opalescence and some normal looking wing feathers and may be some pied as well. I find these a bit hard to pin down as there is a lot different mutations involved in there. Best way to know is a test breed. 1 Thing I can say is that combos like the sell like hot cakes.

Body colour in a yellow face T1 or T2 can be anything that you would possibly find in a blue series bird>Including this dark grey. Id think that the yellow on the wings is being brought forward by another mutation. Is YF T2 as there is a little yellow showing through in the body colour. A typical trait of T2 Dont think golden face as mask Isn't Vibrant enough.

Budgies don't have a large intestine, limiting to a degree what they can easily digest.

Hi and welcome to the forum That is an interesting bird. Defiantly not a common combination in my aviary's. First Id say this bird is an Olive or grey green Df Dark Opaline Dom pied mix. as you suggest pos greywing or even a mix. Cant see any thing to indicate spangle, the yellow is the body base colour and is showing at the tops of feathers, rather than a darker line at the end of the feathers so not spangle. As for YF 1 & 2 mutations? This is not Yellow face T1 or T2. Not to say the it isn't split. A yellow based bird cannot be YF Visual as it is not displaying the mutation. The mutation being the change of yellow to white base or underlying colour. The YF Mutation is one that affects the natural base colour (Yellow), as such The YF is a mutation displays a combination yellow and white base in specific manner. The base colour of a YF1 bird will have a combination base colour. Yellow mask and tail and is confined to these areas the rest of the body is white base. YF2 work in much the same way except that after first molt at abt 3 months of age a very light yellow suffusion will appear on the body base colour. an example is a sky YF2 body will change to an aqua or sea foam type colour dependent on the depth of suffusion. Also YF T1 &T2 both reduce the depth of yellow displayed and doesn't leave any yellow base colour in the wing. In my opinion if this bird was YF T1 or T2 it would display as a cobalt YF T1 or dark Aqua body in YF T2. The cock pictured is displaying olive or grey green which means that it must have a fully coloured yellow base body. Nadene, can you point me towards the info that suggests YFT1 &T2 actually exists in a fully yellow based bird as it goes against all that i understand abt this mutation and cannot find anything that will confirm or refute the possibility. The only ways of being certain of what this bird carries is to have DNA testing done or a series of test mating's to see what is produced in the offspring. Ill take a stab at what I believe he would produce, not including the genetics of splits or hen visual or splits 50% D green/greywing opaline 50% green (Aus)pied(sf)/greywing opaline Really just a guess Paulie

Yellow Face,Grey, Opaline. Maybe some spangle in there too. Definatly grey, Black tail and almost black cheek patch.

Hi Kiwi You and Cado will be far better off if you stick to a routine and allow Cado to settle for a while before you start to change his environment. Just leave the bath water in his cage or some where near by and change water as required. As he does enjoy it, he will got to the bath when he wants to bathe.

Cock looks Dark Eyed Clear from picture, A combination of Recessive Pied and Clearflight Pied. If has red eyes is Lutino, doesn't always show up in pics and looks to not have white iris rings as in Df spangle. Hen looks to be Clearflight Dom Pied combo. Assuming that cock is not lutino or Df spangle. your chicks are likely to be Black Eyed Clear. Hard to come by and often confused

With all the copulation you describe she may well have had enough stored semen to fertilise all eggs in the clutch. Follow what Robyn has outlined and you should be okay. also see posted reply in your other thread.

I would take your budgie to an avian vet and have it checked thoroughly. What meds if any did the vet you saw prescribe? Paulie Head bobbing could be normal, as is part of budgie communication, but would not go so far as to say that there isn't another reason.

Put food and water within easy reach and you hen should be able to raise the 5 if they all hatch. You can also put seed as a nest lining and millet sprays in nest box. You will need to watch closely to ascertain weather the chics are being fed, you will see that there is or is not food in the crop. Be prepared for the fact that you may and I stress MAY experience some losses. But this can happen under the best of circumstances. Personally I would allow the eggs to hatch, giving at the very least a chance of life that would be lost if you throw eggs out. Really these are my opinions and others may have different views, so read what every one has to say and make an as informed decision as you can. Hope this helps Paulie

Finnie At no point did i say that this bird has canker, I am purely providing information and ideas. I have had 3 birds that I have purchased at various times turn out to have canker (Trichmonasis) and presented symptoms on the tongue as in the picture of the owl, fortunately not to the extreme in that picture. I did not say that I thought Kiwi's budgie had canker rather something to be aware of. It is easy to check if presenting in the mouth, not so easy if presenting in the throat and in budgies it does both. Wait for bird to yawn ,if it does have canker it will do this a lot, have a good look in and see what there is to be seen. I also did state "If you suspect this see an Avian vet". If it does have Canker it can be treated if not Canker then the stress is gone. The picture of the Owl is an excellent representation of how this protozoa can manifest in ALL affected species. Parrots(includes budgies), Raptors(includes owls) and Pigeons "QUOTE" Seriously, Paulie, Kiwibudgie is paranoid enough over every little thing Cado does without you throwing in pictures of owls with growths in their mouths. There are no other symptoms whatsoever to make anyone jump to the idea that he could have canker. Sheesh. "UNQUOTE" There are no other symptoms described by Kiwi other than the apparent screaming at this time. As a moderator with considerable knowledge should understand that there are many things that will cause a bird to Yawn, being tired is not one of them, Yawning to stretch and exercise the muscles of the face, a lodged seed, a nervous reaction or warning, Canker and many other causes. as stated in my post. ​My apologies to Kiwi if the info and my opinion have caused Kiwi stress, but not for providing accurate info. Paulie

Dom Pied + Clearflight pied Grey / Recessive pied(markings are masked by dom and CF) This is a cock bird but shows only a little bit of blue on its cere If you look at the white patch on back of head and white patches on body. What you are seeing is the base colour of the bird in this case he is white base. Base colours are white or yellow. There are 4 variations of pied and a bird may carry 1 or more of these mutations. Dominant Pied, Recessive Pied, Clearflight Pied, Dark Eyed Clear, If some one else would like to post a picture of other variations that be great. I don't have 1 Hope this makes a bit of sense!!!!! and is by no means comprehensive. any questions please ask, if I don't know ill try to find out.

they are the genetic mutation that shows in your bird as the different body colours. Visually your bird seems to be a combination of Dominant Pied and Clearflight Pied which is strangely enough Dominant to Dom Pied but you can still see The Dom Pied patch on the back of its head. Ill put up some pics will be easier to understand than my description. Yellow face, Violet, Normal> Juvinile hen Df Grey normal/ recessive pied hen. These 2 birds have consistent body and wing pattens Yellow face Grey Cin spangle hen. See the different wing markings from the previous bird.

Kiwi No prob. New location and baby bird. If isn't sick add everything and let him explore. New birds to my stud often take some time to get use to the new environment.

him turning his back on you is that he is not confident with you yet. Patience Patience Patience. The wide opening beak could be many things ranging from a nervous reaction, Yawning or food caught in throat. It is not uncommon get what is known as a canker, this is caused by Trichmonasis and is common in Budgies, Pigeons, and Raptors such as hawks and Eagles. See http://www.budgiehea...in-budgies.html for full explanation. If you suspect this see an Avian vet. Below are a couple of pics of what to look for. although not a budgie is a good illustration of what to look for.

NO NO Banana is too high in potassium can be toxic to budgies and resembles nothing found in their native desert habitat of central Western Australia, C &W areas of South Australia, southern and central areas of Australia's Northern Territory. Offer lots of fresh foods and seed at the same time. See "Safe foods list in this forum". A hungry bird and particularly a hand reared bird may not recognise it as food and will look for what it currently recognises as food. Offer lots of fresh food and seed, and while exploring, he will find and try it. I put it on the floor of the cage or flight where budgies will naturally forage. Will need to be changed at least once a day depending on local temp and humidity. A hand reared bird may take longer to recognise food depending on how and what it was raised on. Persistence & patience are the keys to success. .

I feed my birds seed (various forms of millet, Black stripe sunflower in small amounts(to much will make them fat when not breeding) steamed rolled oat with husk on, sold as Horse food). Veggies include but not limited to -: Fresh picked local flowering grasses, Broccoli whole plant when available, spinach, cauliflower, corn on the cob, silverbeet, whole radish plant, Bochoy lettuce (never iceberg or other watery lettuce). I never cook veg for birds, for the same reasons I do not feed pellet mixes, the cooking destroys the nutritional value of the foods particularly vitamin C and D3 and with corn, cooking converts the sugars to complex starches and is difficult for birds to digest. All veg is served raw and on the floor of the cage or flight, this is where they will naturally forage for food including small insects. I also give calcium, iodine and vitamin supplements. RAW VEG IS BEST. To get a new budgie to try new foods, I use the abundance method. Lots of seed lots of veg on floor near other food or spread over the floor of enclosure. Budgies are normally very inquisitive and like to peck at every thing in its environment and will eventually try. A hungry bird "will look for the foods it knows" and will be reluctant to try things it doesn't recognise as food. Also a bird that has been hand reared is at a disadvantage because it will have missed out on learning what food is from parents and other birds. This doesn't mean that it won't eat other foods, it just take longer for it to try new things. I cant comment on pesticides as I don,t have that info. Rule of thumb, thoroughly wash all veg but don,t cook. EDIT-- Your bird may be fretting a bit too as he will have bonded with its surrogate feeder. Take it slowly and spend regular time quietly talking to, offering a finger to roost on and you will gain the trust of your bird. once you have your birds trust things will be much smother for both of you. Remember your new bird is a baby and is learning how to live. At 8 weeks they can be compared to a 2-3 year old child learning potty training.

Birdlove for Nov Every man needs a hot set of wheels or at least a great shot of him at the wheels

Hi Kiwi, your budgie is a male (cock). A juvenile female (hen) will have light rings around the nostrils. A juvenile cock will have an even pinkish cere. My dom pied's only develop a partial blue cere at maturity and rec pied's stay a pinkish colour.

I do find that hens are harder to train than cocks. Have to agree with Finnie abt the trainer. Got to have lots of patience.