Finnie

If the mother is cinnamon ino, (lacewing) and the father is split to it, then yes, you can get male cinnamon ino chicks. And if the crossover occurs, you can get the ino and cinnamon separately, too. All the male chicks will be at least split to the cinnamon ino, whether or not they show one of them visually.

I thought TCB had red eyes. Wouldn't that be a way to tell?

I would say there is a pink mineral block in the cage. It is possible to have an albino that is masking violet, and have a bit of suffusion, so that the body of the bird had a hint of purple. Pictures were never posted. I would guess this was just a bored person amusing themself over Christmas break. Note that the member has only the three posts from this thread, and didn't join here to take part in any other discussions.

Female ceres do change color.

My comments are added in red below: This only works with the yellow face mutant one. In that case, both parents will have yellow faces but blue bodies. If L__J's birds are the more common yellowface mutant two, in which the yellow bleeds into the body changing the blue to sea green, then producing blue chicks just means that both parents are split to blue (i.e. single factor yf2). So L__J. which yellowface mutation are your parent birds? Photos of them would help. I will also point out that since there is cinnamon in the mix, that top chick could be a cinnamon opaline greywing spangle. I have produced several of this combination, and that is what they look like. Opaline greywing spangles without the cinnamon also look like this. One other thing you can tell about the ino mother's genetics: She might be split to greywing, but she can't be masking it, or else that cinnamon chick would have come out looking like a greywing. If the mother is not a lacewing, then all the cinnamon chicks will be girls. L__J, does any of this give you ideas on how you want to use that yf ino hen now?

I have found that when I pull a chick for hand feeding when it is around three weeks old, it is too old to take to the formula. Two weeks of age would have been better, but you can still try. Make sure the brooder has a dish of seeds in it, since by this age, the chick should be learning to eat them. If it gets hungry enough and you are persistent, it can still learn to eat the formula, but more likely it will satisfy itself with the seed and will never see you as its new "mommy" providing its sole source of food., (Which is the point of hand raising.) Or you can give it back to its parents, and there should be no problem with that unless the mother already has new eggs to protect from the older chick(s). Everyone has to start somewhere, and it sounds like you have done your homework. Try taking the chick at 2 weeks old next time, and you will see a big difference in its willingness to eat formula. (But it still takes it a full day with no parents to realize the syringe or spoon is the new way to eat.)

99% sure he's a boy seems pretty accurate. Some of those photos look a little ambiguous, but some look definitely boy.

Doing a strange neck movement could just be a sign of something stuck in his throat. However, when you add other symptoms of illness, then you have to wonder if the neck stretching is a sign of actual illness. Keep an eye on the shape and color of his stools, and whether he has any other symptoms, like sitting fluffed up and sleeping too much. If you think he is ill, you should provide him with a heat lamp. That goes a long way to helping them feel better and to be able to maintain their body heat, which is crucial when they are sick. Most of the time, taking a bird to a regular vet is a waste of money, because regular vets are really just guessing about what to do. But if there isn't an avian vet, then regular is the best you can do. About the greens, they are a great part of a healthy bird's diet. But when your bird is sick, you should stop giving fresh food until his poops return to normal. Greens and veggies loosen stools. So if the stools are already loose, greens would be making it worse. Plus, it would be hard to monitor the condition of the stools, since you won't know if their green color and wetness comes from disease, or from eating leaves. Think about it this way, if you feel sick to your stomach, the last thing you want to eat is something that will make your tummy churn more. Perhaps budgies are smart enough to also avoid greens when they have a tummy ache, but you may as well just not give them any.

Me too! When I got my first two budgies, I had one green and yellow one, and one blue one. I was happy, because I had "one of each color". Boy was I wrong! I think I was doomed once I came here and found out about all the colors they do come in.

Hi Everyone, In case you are confused, I have merged both of these threads together because they are discussing the same question concurrently. That's called double posting. So it would help in the future, if you only keep one thread going about a subject, because in order to follow it along, people have to keep jumping back and forth between two threads, and it's hard to keep track of what other people have answered. We have had several of these double postings lately. Thanks!

okay, so with the color this chick has on its back, it is NOT a lutino. What red you are seeing in its eyes is because recessive pied budgies actually have dark plum colored eyes. They will look black, but if you get them in the right lighting, you can sometimes see a red-brown cast. I still think the hen looks like a recessive pied, possibly in combination with dominant pied. At the very least, since you are getting recessive pied and dark eyed clear chicks, you know she is at least split to recessive pied. The father must be a dark eyed clear. (Black Eyed Self is a different mutation, and they often get confused because people think the words Dark and Black are interchangeable.)

I wouldn't say dangerous, but it could be frustrating. If he is longing for the birds he knew in his old home, and he thinks he hears them, but he can never find them. You may be better off sticking with music, radio or TV for background noise.

Lol, or probably because I've been studying budgie stuff for five years now!! Really, I've just learned what to tell people when they come here to buy a baby bird and want to know how to take care of it. When my family is in the other room, they think I sound like a broken record.

yellow cock above is dad to the chick & eggs this hen is sitting on, what possible colours will chicks be Is it this hen? Between this photo and the one that just shows a tiny bit of her head and shoulder, she doesn't look like a spangle to me, but seeing her back may tell a different story. She looks like a recessive pied in this photo. Lutino cocks can be hiding all manner of mutations, so if he has clearflight pied and recessive pied, then these two could easily produce a Dark Eyed Clear chick. I assume he has red eyes? What about iris rings? If he has red eyes, but no iris rings, then he is a recessive pied as well as a lutino. (Or he could also be a DEC himself.)

That is NOT what Paulie said! He said IF you suspect canker, THEN take him to the vet. This bird does not have canker. You should have stopped right there. Seriously, Paulie, Kiwibudgie is paranoid enough over every little thing Cado does without you throwing in pictures of owls with growths in their mouths. There are no other symptoms whatsoever to make anyone jump to the idea that he could have canker. Sheesh. Scaring poor Kiwibudgie for nothing.

Budgies will eat corn in any form. It doesn't need to be raw. If you use canned corn, you should use the kind with no salt added, because the regular kind is too high in salt. Regular broccoli is fine for birds. There are many different opinions about organic vegetables vs normally produced ones. Go with whatever you prefer. Very little of what we feed our birds actually comes from their native habitat. If we wanted to mimic a wild budgie's diet, we would fail miserably. Fortunately for us, and for budgies worldwide, they thrive on the various substitute diets that we humans have been able to develop for them. For those whose budgies like bananas, more power to them. I highly doubt a budgie would eat enough banana to overdose on the potassium, which is an essential component of minerals in a bird's diet anyway. Generally, I have found that budgies are not real partial to any fruits, but there are always exceptions. Any food that you like to eat that is not high in fat, salt and sugar, and is not chocolate, avacodo or onion, then go ahead and feed it to your budgie. (I.e., no junk food.) Blow on his seed dish and look for empty husks. He probably ate while you were not looking, but you can't really tell by looking at the seed dish. Let him settle in to his new home. No more switching cages. He needs time to get comfortable and find his way around his cage, and where the food dishes are located, and whether it is safe to explore the cage, and now he has to start all over from day one again. Kiwi, if you are this worried about him eating, then you need to leave him alone. Back off and WAIT until you see that he is eating happily before you mess around with anything else. There will be plenty of time for baths, bonding, taming, playing, and teaching to eat every vegetable under the sun AFTER he relaxes and eats his seeds well enough to keep up his strength. Fortunately from the description you gave me in your email, his poops are formed normally and he is obviously eating something. Don't worry about tweaking his diet until next week. Just let him eat his seeds and the food the breeder gave you to take home until then.

It just means that he wasn't used to anybody putting a cover over his cage and it startled him. He will get used to it, but you should try to do it gently until he does. Another trick would be to put the cover on the top and sides, leaving the front open and the lights on, to give him a warning that cover time is coming. Then after a few minutes pull the cover the rest of the way down the front. Then wait for him to get settled before you turn the light out. When he is covered, you don't even need to turn out the lights until you are ready to go to bed your own self. Also, leaving a night light on for the first week or so until he is used to his new home can help reassure him if he wakes up in the night and isn't familiar with his cage. Even a budgie who is used to his cage and home can get spooked in the middle of the night. That is called "night fright". It doesn't happen often, but when it does, turning on the lights can help him calm down, and then once he's calm, you can re-cover him and turn the lights back out, and then they are usually okay after that. Some people always use night lights, some people never do. You can work out what fits best in your home situation.

I've noticed that when I have budgies near my kitchen, doing the dishes really sets them off. For mine, it's not the sound of the water. They start up at the rattling when I unload the dishwasher. But I can tell with mine that they are making a cranky noise, and they definitely DON'T like the noise I make with the dishes. For your baby, I bet he really misses the sounds of other birds around. Playing recordings of bird sounds might help reassure him. Also, if your house is quiet a lot, that might be making him nervous. How much noise does your family make? Is there music or TV going much of the time? If not, then I think playing something (anything) would be good, so he has some background noise. In the wild, there is always noise happening from all the different creatures. And if any danger approaches, all the animals go silent. So in our homes, silence can be stressful to birds, since it is a sign of danger. Even if you don't play a radio when you are home, you should definitely turn one on when everybody leaves the house. Waterfall noises on their own might not be enough chatter, unless there are bird noises accompanying the water.

That's very interesting. Since it's not a lutino, do you know what its parents are? They would both have to be spangles in order for it to be a DF spangle. The only other option is dark eyed clear. Unless maybe it has some markings coming in on it somewhere that I can't see in the photos.

Usually around the time of their first molt. It can vary with each bird, though.

Hi Cheri, welcome to the forum. If you visit the FAQs section, there are a lot of articles where you can learn a lot about budgies, and about breeding, if you ever decide to get around to that. Your budgies are very pretty, but since your avatar photo is small, it's kind of hard to tell their exact mutations. Are they both opalines? (If you're not sure what an opaline is, you can learn about that in the Colors and Mutations section.) If your green one is not split to yellowface or blue, then you will get all green chicks. It looks like the blue one is pied, either recessive pied or a combination pied judging from the lack of blue on her front. If you can show us a photo of her back, that might help, too. Glad to have you on here!

Like the others have said, it's all just part of the settling in routine. Since you can get him to eat millet from your hand, you at least don't have to worry about him not eating. If you are concerned, you can always hand feed him the millet a few times a day. Eventually you will see that you don't have to worry. If you see him sleeping, try to let him finish out his nap undisturbed. He probably needs extra rest for now. Especially if you are playing with him a lot in between naps. Don't worry, you are more prepared than you think you are, and it will all become second nature soon.

Wow, Saturday came fast! (For me, probably not for you, lol.) He's definitely a boy. So you didn't end up getting the lighter green one that was looking down in the photo you sent me? This one is very pretty and he looks good. You will have a lot of fun with him!

What color eyes does that yellow chick have?

Robyn, I think that's the whole controversy. The manufacturers of the non stick coating (Teflon is one brand name, but all of them that have the PTFE or whatever the chemical is) claim that toxic fumes are only given off if the pans are overheated and reach a certain temperature. And that is the toxic level for people, they are not concerned with bird toxicity. Other people claim that just using the pans at all releases toxic fumes in small doses into the air, on a daily basis. I would agree that there are a lot of people who have never stopped using their non stick pans, and who keep their birds in their kitchens or nearby, and who have never seen any issues with their birds. So there is some evidence that these pans will not harm birds under normal usage. But there are people who just want to err on the side of caution. And just because some people have kept their birds near teflon use for many years without seeing a problem does not prove that there has been no effect on the bird. There could be small build ups of toxins that cause minor systemic damage, leading to a shortened overall lifespan. But there is no way to prove any of these thinngs, for or against. The only thing they do know is that if the pans burn and release smelly fumes, you better clear the air and remove all forms of life, including yourself.