Dean_NZ

Next year I will be putting half brother to half sister, all sired from the same cinnamon opaline cobalt cock. I'll be interested to see the results as he has been paired now with.... 5 hens off the top of my head and produced about 13 offspring thus far. There are also 4-5 eggs of his currently showing fertile so Im hoping to have about 10 pairs of half brothers/sisters to put down come next year so long as the sexes are balanced. If there are extra hens I will put the worst (or best?) back to the original cock as Im curious to also see what that would do as it is the quickest way to reveal any bad faults that may crop up in the half brother/sister pairs or in the general family line. It may also be the quickest way to get more chicks that look like the original cock but it will be a once off pairing IF i do it. The reason I would consider putting his worst daughter back to him is because she will have 50% of his genes and it will obviously be the 50% of the hens genes making her so crappy, so of all the chicks that hen would theoretically benefit the most from going back to the cock to produce chicks with a minimum of 50% of the cocks genes and a maximum of 100% (theoretically although the law of averages would probably say the chicks would likely get 60-70% of his genes total). Edit: Ooops yes I did mean the violet cinn op above

No they don't. I left it out because its pretty un-common, impossible to identify visually - and its a headache to work out in my head

Definitely just a baby colour issue. Lots of babies have patchy colour, especially green series birds which often have flashes of blue on the rump or chest. It will moult out to be a solid green colour

I would put that sky opaline cinnamon opaline into your DF spangle line if you are worried about flecking. Unless you are worried about bringing cinnamon and / or opaline into your spangle line, the first batch of chicks would all be SF spangles (if you paired her to a DF) and then the best (with or without flecking) could be put back to spangles. I've heard of a few breeders selling some amazing birds because of flecking only to have others use them to great effect in INO or DF spangle breeding where the flecking becomes a non-issue. Of course if you dont want cin/op just breed her to a DF spangle and keep only her normal spangle daughters - cin/op problem solved and you get to use her style/looks in spangle lines

Agree, absolutely normal process allowing skin to egg contact for incubation.

If he is split cinnamon opaline im pretty sure he will breed as follows: 25% normal hens, 25% cinnamon hens, 25% opaline hens, 25% cinnamon opaline hens. 25% normal cocks, 25% normal / cinnamon cocks, 25% normal / opaline cocks, 25% normal /cinnamon / opaline cocks (provided the hen isnt sex linked of course)

If only we could all make a full wage from our budgies... *sigh*

Jeepers 100 birds at once @_@ Not a very helpful post by me, more of a statement really

Both split recessive pied it would seem? Dad is also split blue.

Try right clicking the photo and clicking on 'view image', that should take you to a web page with just the image itself and the web address can be copied and pasted here as the link for the picture. Alternatively just right click the image you want and click "copy image location" and paste that?

Agree with sunny. You'll get opaline greywing hens and greywing cocks split opaline. Either all green split blue, or if the cock is split blue then 50/50 green/blue and blues.

YF's are my pick too

Hard to tell from the photo but sounds like it could be scaly mite. I'd just buy the ivermectin and put a drop on the skin of the back of the neck of all your birds and be done with it If things get worse then go to the vet.

Those cinnamons are my pick of the bunch for sure!

I really like the look of those spangles GB. Nice wing markings and nice masks (those stoodout to me anyway, but they are good all around birds).

Good luck getting her violets lol

It is usually best to post one pair at a time and wait for answers. More likely to get a reply posting pair by pair rather than a whole stack load at a time which can take a while to answer.

Looking good. Are they grinter birds? How old are they?

Hope that helps.

Because albinism blocks only certain types of enzyme production. The yellow enzyme in green budgies or par-green budgies (yellowfaces) is not affected by the albinism. I could look up specifics, but thats the simple explanation. And if you look carefully, albinos and lutinos always have a hint of colour anyway. Albinos masking blue (not grey) have a sparkly blue sheen to them when viewed in good light, creamino's have a wonderful pale jade colouration etc etc.

You have some really great birds shannon!

I am very happy I dare say if my boy was in your UBC show he wouldnt have placed so well and definitely wouldnt have taken out BIS! I know you have some gorgeous birds GB and it is only a matter of time before you get a #1 prize yourself.

Agree with Kaz. Even when I had a reasonably young chick around 3 weeks of age I never bothered getting up to feed after midnight. Last feed was always 10-11pm and then again at 6-7am. Have a 4 week old at the moment and am only feeding it three times a day. Downs about 6 mls of formula and absolutely fills the crop tightly, but 3 a day is enough. I left it in the kindy cage with the others who are eating seed so it can have a crack at seed if it gets hungry in between. Its growing and feathering up just fine, takes a few hours for that massive crop to empty.

They do sometimes randomly strike! Hoping your rehab has gone or is going well, glad to have you back.

Grey green barhead I thought was going to win novice: Third place - Lutino broken cap hen: Champion division, 1st place bird - Grey green dom pied young bird: My dark green in the nest: Today (sorry pics arent great, other babies in kindy cage get skittish if i get too close and he stops posing): Havent gotten around to getting a picture of the trophy. Will do that soon i suppose.