Daz

Healthy ummmm 1 large Crown Larger

Budgerigars can go for 42 days with out water.. That is why it's best to use a syringe. I hope the lettice works. I hope all the best for him

I wonder if lukie knows what he is saying in blackbird talk

.......i'll be glad when I finish this.... The rain stopped so I got a few hours last night on the aviary. Photos taken this morning before I went to work. List to do to finish off outside. I want to finish these this year. finish off roof sheeting 3/4 to go. Put on ridge cap. Put on gable flashing put on guttering (this side) Down pipes. Still will have to do the inside.

love chicks they look so cute.

2 drops for the birds in a litre of water and half a glass for the breeder The current thought for show birds is to put a drop of brandy in a litre of water and litely spray on feathers. The water will cause the birds to preen and the sweetness will prelong the preening. Preening is needed to bring the feathers back to good condition.

Those who are breeding Budgerigars for the first time may find that the odd pair will not take the slightest notice of each other; on the other hand they may fight like "cat and dog". This unusual behaviour by either or both partners is an indication that the birds are not in full breeding condition. If the pairs refuse to take a lively interest in each other they should be broken up and put back into their flights or aviaries until they do come into condition. Fighting pairs should also be parted if they do not settle down quietly in a reasonable time as it is obvious they are not suited to each other. Fighting does occur with all kinds of breeding stock, especially if one of the partners has already taken a fancy to another mate. Should the pairing be a very special one, however, the birds should be tried together after ten or twelve days of complete separation. And if this method is of no avail, fresh mates must be found if any breeding is to take place. To get back to the term "breeding condition," it must always be borne in mind that it is not the same as "show condition". When a bird is said to be in breeding condition, it means that it is vigorously healthy and ready to start breeding operations at once. Broken Tail Feathers It does not matter in the least if tail feathers are broken, spots missing, or mask and body feathers soiled, provided the bird is full of energy and flying strongly; and this applies equally to cocks and hens. Only birds that are in this full breeding condition should be used in the breeding quarters. Much time can be lost and unsatisfactory breeding results obtained by being over anxious and pairing birds before they are ready. When a hen Budgerigar is seen to mate satisfactorily with her partner and appears to be preparing to lay but no eggs appear, it is mostly a sign that she has some internal trouble. Should this happen it is best to split up the pair and give the cock bird a new partner, even if only temporarily. The original hen should be returned to the flight and can be tried again with a new mate later in the season. It is only on very rare occasions that I have seen this type of hen bird of any use in the breeding quarters. Even though the hen may seem to be a good one it is not worth wasting time, space and a good cock bird on trying to achieve the impossible. The right kind of nest-boxes must, and do, play an important part in the success of the breeding season. I like to see next-boxes made of thick clean timber and fitted with good, deep loose concave bottoms. I have seen many nest bottoms that are far too shallow and, consequently, the eggs become chilled and fail to hatch. When this happens the hens are generally blamed for being bad parents, whereas it is actually the fault of their owner. Nest-boxes made of stout wood will also help to prevent eggs from getting too dry and causing dead-in-shell. The entrance holes should not be made too large as the hen birds seem to prefer to be able to squeeze through the holes into their boxes. Facing Egg Binding A problem that most of us have to face from time to time in our birdrooms is that of egg binding, which is the inability of a bird .to pass an egg in the usual manner. If such cases are not dealt with at once and with care, the bird will invariably die. The cause of death may be shock, internal bleeding, a prolapsed oviduct or an internal infection. It is essential to keep an eye on all hens when they are about to lay. Any that look a little off colour should be watched for a few hours and if no improvement is seen, or the bird gets worse, it should be moved at once into a small cage in a warm room. Other than applying a few drops of warm olive oil to the vent when first putting her into the cage the bird should not be handled. No manual attempt to force the egg from the hen should be made and the bird should be placed near an electric fire where the temperature is between 70 andr 80 degrees F, or in a hospital cage. Seed should be given and a few drops of whisky or brandy, can be added to the drinking water. Coarse flannel or woollen material must not be put on the floor of the cage; I have seen hens get tangled up in these materials and expend the valuable energy they need to carry them over this critical period. Usually, after a few hours' rest in the warm, the hen will pass her egg naturally and once this is done she will recover quickly. It is not wise, however, to transfer the bird to an outside aviary or birdroom straight away, without giving her a few days to get accustomed to a gradual change in temperature. In very bad cases of egg-binding the help of the nearest experienced Budgerigar breeder should be sought. Information by Cyril Rogers

Many fanciers consider the subject of genetics too complicated and shy away from it, but as breeders of budgerigars, and with the number of varieties and colours available to us, it is important that we have some knowledge about colour production. This article only touches on the basis of genetics with its colour and variety production, and is aimed mostly for the newcomers to the fancy rather than established fanciers. A greater depth of knowledge was obtained when Gregor Mendel, an Austrian monk, published his scientific observations during 1866. After experimenting for many years by cross-pollinating Pea plants and noting the characteristics of the resulting seedlings, he established the first laws for the science of heredity which is now known as genetics. Mendel's Theory of Inheritance was the basis which many scientists followed during the late nineteenth century and early part of this century, to apply both to plant and animal production. It was not until Dr H Duncker and C H Cremer of Bremen, Germany, applied Mendel's theories to budgerigars, in about 1920, that these laws became universally accepted by the fancy. These laws are used for budgerigar production to predict the colour characteristics of the offspring from any particular pairing. Each bird has it own genetic code contained in its own unique set of 26 microscopic bodies known as "Chromosomes". This set of chromosomes is duplicated in each cell of the bird. Each chromosome of the set consists of a different string of "Genes" or "Factors" (which was Mendel's term) which controls the various hereditary characters of the bird. These hereditary characters include size of spots and head, shape, type, colour, sex, bone structure, length and texture of feather, etc. The 26 chromosomes are associated in 13 pairs of equal length (except for that chromosome pair that controls the sex of the bird). Corresponding (in position) genes on each chromosome, in a pair arc called "Allelmorphs" or "Alleles". An allele pair may be identical or different and how they interact controls one of the characters of the bird. If a pair of alleles are identical the bird is said to be "Homozygous" for the particular gene (or the gene is said to be present as a "Double Factor"); if these are different, the bird is said to be "Heterozygous". for each gene (or each gene is said to be present as a "Single" Factor") A "mutation" is a genetic accident where a gene or a set of genes changed. However, a viable mutation is a rare event; which is why in the wild budgerigar population, the original gene is most common. Thus the original gene is called the "Wild-Type" gene and any departure from the wild-type is called a mutation. A mutant can differ in some major ways or minor ways from the wild-type. Obviously, some mutations can occur more easily (and hence more often) than others. On mating, (hopefully), the sperm from the cock fertilises the ovum of the hen to produce the egg. The sperm and the ovum are single cells which contain only one chromosome of each chromosome pair (which half of a chromosome pair that gets included in the sperm or ovum is a matter of chance). Thus the fertilised egg has a full set of chromosomes, with each chromosome pair having a chromosome from each parent. Thus each parent's genes contribute towards every characteristic of the chick. There is a genetic complication to this process called "Crossing-over". This occurs during that part of the production of the sperm and the ovum when the chromosomes pair up and lie parallel to each other. At this stage, a pair of chromosomes can become entangled at certain points rather like a pair of long balloons twisted together. The segments between these points can then exchange or "Cross-over". Thus a chromosome in a sperm or an ovum can be a mixture of the chromosome pair of parent. Crossing-over, for a particular pair of chromosomes, tends to occur at the same locations. This means that genes found on the same segment will always be associated or "linked" with each other. The Sex Character As mentioned earlier, the pair of chromosomes that control the sex are not of equal lengths. The sex-chromosomes of the hen, denoted by the letters X and Y, are of different lengths, Y being the shorter member of that pair and carrying no sex genes. The cock will have a pair of sex-chromosomes of the same length, referred to as XX. Whenever a cock and a hen are paired together they should always produce equal numbers of the two sexes, on average. This is because, on mating, the cock's sperm cell carrying half a set of chromosome pairs, combines with the hen's egg cell also containing half a set of chromosome pairs, forming a completely new whole set of chromosomes. The Split CharacterA pair of birds of one colour "Phenotype" may produce other colours if their genetic make-up "Genotype" differs from their actual phenotypic appearance. These are impure birds and commonly known as "splits" indicated by an oblique line"/". The Dominant and Recessive CharacterThe colour genes are either "dominant" (e.g. green) or "recessive" (e.g., blue). A bird carrying the dominant gene on one half of the chromosome pair will be coloured as if it was carried on both halves. The recessive colours will only show themselves if they are carried on both halves of the chromosome pairs. The colour genes can be carried in a number of different chromosome pairs. A bird can then be one dominant colour and carry in its genetic make-up one or more recessive colours in a hidden form, but not vice-versa. Thus, one can say that in the simplest form of interaction of two dissimilar alleles, one is dominant and the other recessive, that is, the dominant allele controls the character. For instance, when the green gene (i.e., the gene with the code for green feathers) and the blue gene are on allele pair, the bird is green because the green gene is dominant with respect to the blue gene. Because of the interaction of dissimilar alleles, a bird's physical make-up (its phenotype) may be different from its genetic make-up (its genotype). In the colour inheritance, the following groupings can be made: The dominant mutations are: Greens (All Forms) Dominant Pieds Greys Clear-Flights Violets Spangles Yellow Faces (to the blue series) Crests The recessive mutations are: Blues (All Forms) Recessive Pieds Fallows Whites Yellows Greywings Clearwings. The gene of a dominant character may be present as a single or double factor, determination of which is only possible by trial pairing to a pure normal. It is not possible for any normal looking bird to be "split" for a dominant character. The various rules that govern the inheritance of the dominant character irrespective of the actual colour are: Pairings and Expectations - Dominant Pairings Expectations 1 Dominant (Single factor) x Normal 50% Dominant (sf) 50% normals 2 Dominant (Double Factor) x Normal 100% Dominant (sf) 3 Dominant (sf) x Dominant (sf) 25% Dominant (df) 50% Dominant (sf) 25% Normals 4 Dominant (sf) x Dominant (df) 50% Dominant (sf) 50% Dominant (df) 5 Dominant (df) x Dominant (df) 100% Dominant (df) The production of any of the recessive characters act as a simple "autosomal recessive gene"and the rules of their reproduction are as follows: Pairings and Expectations - Recessive Pairings Expectations 1 Recessive x Normal 100% Normal/Recessive 2 Recessive x Normal/Recessive 50% Recessive 50% Normal/Recessive 3 Recessive x Recessive 100% Recessive 4 Normal/Recessive x Normal/Recessive 25% Recessive 50% Normal/Recessive 25% Normal 5 Normal/Recessive x Normal 50% Normal/Recessive 50% Normal From the table above, it can be deduced that there is absolutely no merit in the pairings indicated in rules 4 and 5. A lot of wastage is produced from these pairings and also it is not possible to distinguish the split progeny from the Normals. The Dark Character As well as the colour gene being dominant or recessive, there is the inherited depth-of-colour gene call the "Dark Factor" and denoted by the letter "D". The dark gene is not responsible for colour in itself but will alter the depth of colour. It works independently of any other colour gene. The theory used to establish different shades of colour is known as the "Incomplete Dominance Theorem". The absence of the dark gene is denoted by "dd", it's presence as a single factor by "Dd"and in double factor by "DD". Presence of the Dark Factor Basic Colour No Dark Factor (Light Factor) dd One Dark Factor (Medium Factor) Dd Two Dark Factors (Dark Factor) DD Green - Light Green(dd), Dark Green(Dd), Olive(DD) Blue - Blue(dd), Cobalt(Dd), Mauve(DD) The results and percentages of the mating and production of budgerigars with regard to the dark character is governed by the Mendelian Theory. It is important to realise when giving results in percentages, that the percentages are calculated over a wide number of different pairings of the same combination and not for a single nest. In doing so, the practical results will roughly agree with the theoretical expectation. Therefore results of cross-mating with various shades of dark genes can be summarised as follows: Pairings and Expectations - Dark Factor Pairings Expectations DD x DD 100% DD DD x Dd 50% DD 50% Dd DD x dd 100% Dd Dd x Dd 25% DD 50% Dd 25% dd Dd x dd 50% Dd 50% dd dd x dd 100% dd The Sex-linked Recessive Character One further character worth mentioning, is the sex-linked recessive inheritance character. With this character, the relevant genes occur only on the X sex-chromosome. As mentioned before, the hen only has one X sex-chromosome, hence the hen can either have a sex-linked gene or none at all; it cannot be split for sex-linked genes. Therefore its phenotype must be the same as its genotype. However, the cock can be split for sex-linked genes. This is because the cock birds of the sex-linked varieties can have this gene on either one or both of their sex-chromosomes; while the sex-linked hens have only one half of their sex chromosome pair that can carry the sex-linked colour character, the other half determines the actual sex. The varieties that obey the Sex-Linkage Theory are: Opalines Cinnamons Lutinos and Albinos Lacewings Slates Texas Clearbody (but dominant to Ino) The five possible pairings with the Sex-Linkage Theory are, using the following abbreviations: SL for Sex-Linked NL for Non Sex-Linked NL/SL for Non Sex-Linked/Sex-Linked Pairings with Sex-Linkage Theory Pairing Expectation 1 SL cock x SL hen 50% SL cocks 50% SL hens 2 SL cock x NL hen 50% NL/SL cocks 50% SL hens 3 NL cock x SL hen 50% NL/SL cocks 50% NL hens 4 NL/SL cock x SL hen 25% SL cocks 25% NL/SL cocks 25% SL hens 25% NL hens 5 NL/SL cock x NL hen 25% NL cocks 25% NL/SL cocks 25% SL Hens 25% NL hens When two birds with different sex-linked characters are mated, one will act as if it were a non sex-linked bird and rule 2 applies. With this knowledge of genetics we can now perhaps, appreciate the production of the various colours and varieties. by Ghalib Al-Nasser

Carol: How did you commence in the hobby? Where did your first birds come from? What bloodlines are your English birds? Nigel: I started in the hobby initially because of ill health. I was serving in the RAAF, working a second job and doing other part time work, consequently my body could not take it and I had a nervous breakdown. I guess a few hours sleep per day was not enough and the battery went flat. I was basically told, after a lengthy stay in hospital, to change my lifestyle and attempt to find a relaxing hobby. It was around this time I was asked by Bruce Patterson, a fellow RAAF member and a keen bird fancier, if I would look after his birds (canaries, budgerigars and I believe parrots and finches) whilst he was in Queensland doing a course. We were both serving in Wagga Wagga N.S.W. at the time. It was disastrous for me and I guess Bruce, as vandals broke in and let a number of his birds out, mostly canaries as I recall. In a way he was lucky as my wife rang me at work to say there were some canaries flying around the house so I hot footed it home and patched up a number of aviaries saving a lot more birds from escaping. I guess the seeds were sown then, as I was so impressed with his budgerigars ? the colours, the size ? they were so different to what I had assumed budgerigars to be. This impression led me to a point where I needed to know how to breed these different colours thus the book 'Cult of the Budgerigar' by Watmough was purchased. I read and re read this book until the pages were near worn out, in particular the chapters on 'Colour Production' and then 'How to breed winners' and ' In-breeding'. I still find I go back to this wonderful book today just as a refresher, especially the latter two topics. (I am very impressed with the Gerald Binks book 'The Challenge', a book that should be 'up to date' for years to come. 'The All About' series by Roy Stringer and Fred Wright are also very useful). I questioned fanciers. The late Albert Humphries of Wagga Wagga and Bruce Patterson must have got sick of me asking about things that I thought were important but were probably trivial or second nature to them. I also knew of fanciers in Kyabram, Victoria -my parent-in-laws resided there. Ray Coldwell and Bert Saunders were of particular help to me. After about 12 months of 'researching', I purchased 3 pairs of birds from Ray and 2 pairs from Bert and returned to Wagga Wagga. I paid $5.00 each for them. I was naive enough to show 2 of these birds at Griffith in N.S.W., one, a Grey Green Cock bird won its class and eventually was runner up to the winning Cock Bird in the Show. I guess this suggested I was in the right paddock, so to speak, as far as purchasing goes. I have not shown a purchased bird since. I left the RAAF, moved to Mount Gambier, joined their Society, paired up these few birds in the back room / office of our newly purchased house and made contact with Ray Coldwell to purchase some more birds. His asking price, I believe, was then $20.00, I thought and probably suggested to him that I only wanted to purchase budgerigars not some gold with them. How things have changed and how horribly wrong I was to question the gentleman that kick started me. He must have forgiven me as he gave me all of the books he had on budgerigars, which were many. I was able to repay him in some small way some years later by giving him a good pair when he decided to upgrade. Geoff Smith from Adelaide, South Australia was my next stop ? there was a difference between the Victorian and the South Australian purchases, the Victorian birds were probably more stylish, where the South Australian birds were advanced in the head and spot region. The blend of these birds worked tremendously, although you would not feed them today as the advancement since importation has been that great. I was lucky enough to get Reserve Champion Cock, Reserve Champion Hen, Champion Novice, Champion Novice Opposite Sex, Reserve Novice Cock, Third Best Novice Cock and Third Best Novice Hen at the Budgerigar Society of South Australia (BSSA) Young Stock Show, there were 1100 entries. Kelwyn Kakoschke won Grand Champion and Champion Opposite Sex, this was in March of 1984, in May of the same year a record entry of 1300 birds were benched at the BSSA Annual Show with young and adult combined. Kelwyn again took the honours, a young cock bird of mine made Third Champion Cock in show plus I again achieved Champion Novice and Champion Novice Opposite Sex. This was frightening as I was promoted from Novice to Open and basically I was an apprentice at the hobby given that I paired my first birds in September of 1981. After seeing Kelwyns birds, in particular in his aviaries, I had to make a decision. It was an easy decision, I needed to upgrade ? I sold between 50 and 70 of my birds to purchase one of his, plus I worked heaps of overtime to get a second. These birds blended in with the best of the birds I kept and gave me further success. I later purchased some birds from John Scoble, again I sold numbers and worked every bit of overtime I could, to get a couple of pairs, sight unseen. What a pleasant surprise it was when I opened the box after arrival by air. These birds were that far in front of what I had, it was ridiculous. I paired these birds together and won my first National with a Grey Green Hen in Hobart, that was in 1988. Strangely, when the Kakoschke and Scoble birds were paired together, they did not blend, but they worked okay if they were bred with their own families or were put to the progeny of the remnants of my original birds. John Tanner lent me 4 birds that were of excellent quality and they matched well with the Scoble family. My "English" bloodlines were mainly Doug Sadler, Mick Joines and Tom Williams background, but not necessarily all were purchased directly from these gentlemen. I also purchased birds with Leo Endres, Reinhart Molkentin and Jo Mannes backgrounds. The birds with the Mannes background were purchased from various breeders throughout the UK I will cover some of these purchases for you later on. I was fortunate to be able to obtain an Opaline Light Green Cock from Frank Silva, "the fancier of the future" I believe I called him when I first met him. In fact I wrote in his visitors book in May of 1994 "What a super start ? look out everyone else". This man is so methodical, so gifted with animals that one could sense in his first years that he would be a successful exhibitor of budgerigars. He has proven me correct. I was also able to 'squeeze' a quality Dominant Pied Sky Blue Cock out of Jeff Attwood plus 'squeeze' a very good Grey cock out of Bernard Kellett. The latter two birds were UBC's or barheads. Another useful purchase was a Cinnamon Grey Cock from Fred Wright with an Attwood background. Fred offered this bird for purchase and it was initially declined. Toward the end of purchasing for various members of a syndicate, we were short of the sort of birds we were looking for and as Fred had been very helpful we decided to at least visit once more. This time the Cinnamon Grey Cock was purchased for Leon Akritidis and boy has this bird made an impact. Leon went overseas for a period of time and I paired his birds at my residence and used the birds as I pleased. This one again shone out with its progeny ? it did not matter to what it was paired something of quality emerged. I hope I have not offended any of my UK friends by not mentioning their names, but a lot of birds were purchased for other fanciers and a lot have had success with those purchases. I never ever did get rid of all of my 'Australian' stock as the Scoble birds and the Scoble / Tanner cross and the blend of both to 'my line' had many of the features one was looking for or were at least a good starting point. I have purchased a couple of birds since importation, none visually attractive but genetically suitable. I find it difficult to purchase that good one, although I am extremely lucky in that I can go to a number of fanciers who have purchased birds from me over the years, grab something back that takes my fancy and split the nest, hopefully helping both parties out. Ross Loats, Leon Akritidis, Ross Grant, The Bridgeman Family, David Estreich, Rob McKie, Stephen Mow and the Podger & Ritchie partnership just to name a few. In the main, this is a two-way arrangement. Most of these guys have done well at the National level and the remainder have done very well at major shows. Carol: What is the feeding programme you use during the breeding / non-breeding season? Nigel: The feeding programme that I have used in past years has been totally modified this past season (1998). I have a very close friendship with Frank Silva and his lovely family and we keep in regular contact. I could not believe the numbers of chicks he was producing and chicks of quality. He gave me the 'recipe' that he uses for a soft food. Being somewhat busy, I could not keep up the routine of making the mix so I went searching for a 'manufactured' equivalent. In the 'sample bags' given out at the N.S.W. hosted nationals in May of 1998, there was a product called Budgie Starter which was available from Bruce Chapman of Petcare Direct Pty. Ltd. a sponsor of the Australian National Championship Show. This product is manufactured in Adelaide by Passwell Pty. Ltd.. The following in an extract from the information sheet on this product. "In the wild, budgies feed their chicks a high protein diet of seeds, fruits and insects and although caged budgies may be genetically removed from their wild ancestors, they do retain much of the wild bird digestive physiology. The addition of insects to the diet not only increases the quantity of protein but also improves the quality. This means that breeding budgies need a supplement that contains a higher level of better quality protein than the normal seed diet". Budgie Starter is in granular powder form and has a minimum crude protein content of 22%. It is a product that is recommended to use without additives but I do add 3 hard-boiled eggs to 3 cups of the granular powder and further to that I add 3 cups of sprouted seed that has been rinsed and left to drain for approximately 5 minutes. All of this is mixed together and fed to the birds ? whatever is mixed is used. I find that most of the birds consume the majority of what is on offer. This mix is fed each morning and sprouted seed is fed each evening. All breeding cages and aviaries have separate containers of Plain Canary, Jap Millet, White French Millet, Red Panicum, Bandicoot Oats (Garlic oil or Combi oil [a blend of 8 seed oils] is added to this-these two products are available from Mineral Energy in Victoria) and Grey Striped Sunflower. The birds are also given an even mix of Canary, White French and Jap Millet to which Cod Liver Oil and Wheatgerm is added. Finger drawers supply A. 2 types of hard grit, one from Broken Hill and the other from Adelaide, Budgie Bill from Broken Hill grades and sells these grits. B. wild seeds from Pepper's Millet Spray Supplies of N.S.W., © Linseed and Rape seed ? the latter is not consumed readily and is likely to disappear from the scene soon. Cuttlefish, calcium bells (Iodine and charcoal) are also used. Silver-beet is fed each morning, gum branches / leaves are presented weekly to fortnightly and lucerne (fresh) again weekly to fortnightly. 1/8th of a lemon is fed to each breeding cage per week and a lemon to each aviary over the same time span. I add Pentavite to the water daily and Vitamin B12 three times / week. I had been using other products previously. Over the last two year of its use I had a number of birds with deformed legs and wings-I could not guarantee that the birds were getting too much or not enough of anything, but my vet thought the signs were that there was too much of a particular substance. I had 20 odd birds afflicted the first year and 35 odd the second, up until that stage there had been no perceived problems. This season I have bred 130 chicks more than normal and to this point there have been no problems. The only difference to the diet in the 'off' season is there is a reduction in the bandicoot oats and the sprouted seed and the water is presented free of vitamins. Carol: How do you prepare your birds for the breeding season? Nigel: My preparation for the breeding season is on going. I am always mentally pairing birds throughout the year. The breeding season proper probably starts a lot later for me than a number of exhibitors ? I rely on nature a fair amount. When I see the 'local' birds building their nests, it is usually pretty close to pairing up time for me, assuming that the budgerigars are in good breeding condition themselves. Some years it might be late July, other years it might be as late as the end of August. Not all are paired at once, as they come into condition, they are paired, thus some pairings are as late as November / December. A number of pairs only have one round taken from them. Pairing this late creates a slight problem when aiming to exhibit. I miss most of the 'early' shows, although the 'spill over' from December are rung in January with the new issue of rings and there is always a possibility of producing one or two for the Shows for the following season. I guess I have diverted from your question, so back to the preparation. I usually put a large block of hardwood with thick bark in each aviary around late June early July, I also separate the Cocks from the Hens at this time. I keep the mature young birds separated from the adult birds. From mid June to early July through to the completion of the breeding season vitamins are added to the water plus the bandicoot oats and the sprouted seed volume is increased Carol: When pairing up, do you go by pedigree or visual appearances? How closely do you mate your birds and what relative matings have been your most successful? Nigel: I go by both I guess, initially visually then genetically. In the main, most of my birds have a common genetic background (Williams, Endres & Molkentin). Mannes bred birds purchased from Ernie Sigston probably have had the most recent positive impact in my aviaries or should I say the sons and daughters and grand sons and grand daughters of a particular Cinnamon Grey Cock have. A Grey Green Cock, purchased by the Bridgeman family at the same time as the Cinnamon Grey, and related, produced some quality for me last year. Unfortunately he has not produced since and neither have many of his offspring, but I guess there is always next year and AI to try, if necessary. Another great purchase was a small, non-visual Spangle Yellow Face Grey Hen from Rodney Harris that had super parents, she was paired to the Cinnamon Grey Cock and the Jackpot was hit, she also saw the Kellet Grey Cock, another jackpot. These birds progeny have blended so well with the Endres / Molkentin / Williams birds that had already blended with Sadler / Joines and my original line. The Silva and the Attwood progeny were also receptive to these birds. Both Jim Hutton and Brian Byles were each generous in releasing a quality Mannes bred hen to me ? these did not produce large numbers but their progeny has been very useful nevertheless. I pair Father to Daughter, Mother to Son, Brother to Sister (rarely and not for some while), Cousins (close and distant), Uncles & Aunts to Nieces & Nephews. I have had reasonable success with all of the pairings but the best would be Cousin to Cousin thus far. The Brother to Sister mating has given mixed results, one mating many years back just produced absolute garbage with secondaries the length of primary flights, beaky ? just horrible. That family was declared out of bounds and disposed of. Carol: Please describe your aviary ? construction materials, size, flights, nest box and breeding cage design, number of cages etc. Nigel: My complex is hard to describe without diagrams so that would be the best way, in part, to approach this question. The complex has brick external walls, the breeding rooms have stone internal walls that are covered in white bathroom tiles, most of the complex has match lining ceilings with insulation. Skylights introduce plenty of light (I had heavy duty rubber 'shade cloth' manufactured to cover the sky-lights in the summer months), the main breeding room is air-conditioned (rarely used), there are 3 airpurifier / ionisers, 7 pedestal fans, 2 industrial wind driven 'whirlies', 2 radios a fridge and a phone. All aviaries can drain into grated pits that have underground pipes that connect to the sewerage. There is a pit prior to an 'S bend' that catches seed husks etc, this requires emptying about once every 6 weeks. There are 8 aviaries (4 now have 1mt of opening to the weather), 1 quarantine aviary, 3 nursery cages, 1 hospital cage, 66 wire breeding cages (600mm wide x 350mm high x 350mm deep), 66 plastic nest boxes with 45 mm thick redgum or pinus radiata concaves. It took me a number of years to get the complex to where it is today, I guess I will make further modifications when I see fit. Plan of aviaries and breeding rooms http://www.budgerigars.co.uk/images/tonkin_aviaries.gif Carol: Do you use preventative medication during and pre breeding season and if so what and why? Nigel: I usually treat all of the birds with Psittavet (Doxycycline hydrochloride 40mg/g) a Vetafarm product, twice a year, once prior to the breeding season and once midstream of the breeding season. This treatment is for 7 days at a time and appears to have reduced chick mortality considerably. Carol: How many chicks and rounds do you allow your birds? Nigel: Most birds that I pair have one round only but some will go 2 and the odd one might get three. I usually try and have 5 chicks per feeding pair. Carol: What are your favourite varieties and for each may I have the biggest problem with this variety and how you go about improving this feature? Nigel: I guess I have a love for the Spangle. Don't ask me why, but I do. I have had reasonable success on the show bench with the variety over a number of years. The hardest thing to retain / obtain on this variety is the wing markings and the correct throat spots. I guess we should take some advice from JO Mannes, who suggested to me to pair Spangle to Spangle and then pair the Double factors produced, back to quality Normals to improve the wing markings and no doubt the quality of the budgerigar overall. I don't think that the Opaline or the Cinnamon varieties are good for the purpose of the exhibition Spangle and the clarity of the required markings, but I do have a few of these that are reasonable budgerigars. I also like Normals plus, the Cinnamons, Opalines, Dominant Pied and the Recessive Pieds. On the Show bench, I just love seeing a good budgerigar regardless of the variety. Carol: We always seem to have problems with Clearwings (markings on wings), Greywings (dilutes) and Black Eyed Selfs (Grey Yellows) on the show bench ? what can we do to overcome this problem? Nigel: This is a story in its self. I will refer to a chapter 8 of the book Genetics for Budgerigar Breeders by T.G. Taylor, M.A., Ph. D. and C. Warner. The title of the Chapter is Multiple Allelomorphs. I will short cut the chapter for way of explanation. This chapter considers a series of multiple allelomorphs that are responsible for regulating the intensity of colour on the wings and body of budgerigars. Birds of the normal Green and Blue series have black wing markings and 'full strength' body colour. It is the particular distribution of melanin pigment which determines this normal pattern. Various changes can occur in the distribution of the pigment granules, changes that result in the formation of Greywings, Clearwings and Dilutes (Whites & Yellow)[and one could slot the 'Australian' Black Eyed Self into this group]. They are caused by different mutations of one and the same gene, they thus form a series of multiple allelomorphs. These allelomorphs or alleles for short, produce the same sort of effect, i.e., a reduction in the number of pigment granules, but to differing degrees. In the Greywing and Dilutes, the reduction in melanin is uniform throughout the wings and body, but in Clearwings, the melanin in the body feathers is only slightly reduced, while that in the wing feathers is reduced to an extent similar to that observed in Dilutes. The relationship between Greywing and Clearwing is interesting in that neither one is completely dominant to the other. When a pure-breeding Clearwing is mated to a pure-breeding Greywing, all of the young are known as Full-bodied Greywing, in which the body colour is that of a Clearwing, while the intensity of wing markings is that of a Greywing. Dilute is the most recessive gene of the multiple series. Dilutes of the Green series are known as "Yellows" and those of the Blue series, as "Whites". Australia may have created a rod for its own back by promoting / accepting and in fact standardizing the combination of two mutations / varieties. The original mutation of Greywing did not have 'Body Colour: approaching full intensity' but 50% body colour was deemed as the norm. As is previously mentioned, by combining the Clearwing with the Greywing the end result was a bird with grey wings and close to a normal body colour. I am not one for the changing of The Standard from an original mutation, the mutation should become The Standard and we should aim to keep it as pure and perfect to its origins as possible. How do we get uniformity in judging these 'difficult' varieties? We as judges, should have, at the National level, annual workshops discussing these varieties with results of the workshop being written up and sent to each zone for distribution to all judges and the fancy in general. It is difficult if one year a 'dirty winged' Clearwing wins at the Nationals under one team of judges and the following year a similar bird is presented to another team of judges and finishes near the end of the group. It confuses the dedicated breeders of the variety, sure some of the 'new style' yellows can "meet the Standard" of say the Black Eyed self, the Standard is only a guide of perfection and faults are permitted. This relates to all varieties. I have judged what some call Yellows in a Black Eyed Self class, and, in conjunction with other judges have passed them as Black Eyes with visible faults. I might add that in the same class I have disqualified birds that were not within a bulls roar of the variety. Any way the poor exhibitor fronts up at the next show with his 'winning blackeye' only to see it disqualified. I again reiterate, I believe a 'Judges workshop' would be a positive step in creating uniformity in judging these varieties. Carol: Where can you see the fancy heading especially with so many fanciers leaving the hobby? Nigel: I am not sure what we can do to stop the decline. Are we, the high profile fanciers charging too much for our birds? Are the many auctions where in excess of $1,000.00 is being paid for individual birds the cause? Are we not sponsoring Juniors? Is the hobby now a business? Is greed the problem? I am not sure but it is a big worry. Carol: What is the greatest asset of being in the fancy? Nigel: I love the social side of the fancy. I prefer to judge than exhibit. The hobby is a great leveler. I enjoy the travel, be it intrastate, interstate or overseas. I have met some of the most wonderful people going around and some absolute sods. Carol: What is the benefit of having the National show each year? Nigel: The National show brings together a group of dedicated fanciers annually for a great social event, which has a competitive spirit. It gives the opportunity to compare some of the best birds of different varieties it the country. I have grave concerns though, that we are pricing the Nationals out of the reach of a number of fanciers. States / Zones appear to compete to out do the previous host State / Zone. I would like to see common sense prevail and get the ANBC to set some strict guidelines in an attempt to bring the costs back to an affordable level for most. Carol: What can we do to get more consistency in judging and the birds? Nigel: I guess I have previously answered this question in part. I believe that an annual workshop would go a long way to improving that consistency. Wherever I exhibit or judge, I give comments, positive and negative, on judges that are up and coming, to the State / Zone that they come from. I believe both positive and negative feed back to the Judging controlling body of that State / Zone on that judge is a benefit to all. In Adelaide, when judging with an up and coming judge I let them place the birds and ask for comments why they placed them that way ? I will give my opinion to them, one way or the other in an attempt to get that consistency. But then who is to say my opinion is correct? Carol: Any other topic you would like to cover? Nigel: I don't think you have any room left for another topic ? I do appreciate your interest in interviewing me and I trust that some of the information is of benefit to the readers. My final comment is 'you only get out of the hobby what you put in, be observant, do not put off until tomorrow what needs doing today and be assured, you never stop learning'. Information from Brisbane & Northern Suburbs Budgerigar Society inc.

On June 2, 1999, my wife, Dinah, and I boarded a plane bound for the United Kingdom.We last visited the United Kingdom two years ago. During that visit, we met several budgie fanciers and visited three aviaries or studs as they are called there. With great anticipation for new adventures, we began our eight-hour flights from Raleigh-Durham International Airport to London Gatwick. Before progressing with this story, let me first share the events leading up to our take-off. The airport is approximately two and one-half hours by automobile from our home. Approximately forty miles before reaching our destination, the alternator failed causing our truck to suddenly cease to function. Fortunately, we stopped beside the only rest stop before reaching our destination. A tow truck was dispatched and Dinah and I rode a taxi to the airport. Only then did I truly appreciate just how expensive taxi rides are. After a rather uneventful flight, we landed at London Gatwick International Airport. In keeping with our sense of adventure, Dinah and I had decided to utilize the British rail system to move about the United Kingdom. Upon arrival by train at London's Victoria Station, we learned that we had to take the tube or underground to London's Paddington Station where we were to take our train to Carmarthen in Wales. For those who know just how crowded the London Underground is, please imagine two visitors wrestling with four pieces of luggage during the height of rush hour while standing in the underground car and looking for the correct stop. Sounds bad and believe me, it was. Upon arrival at Paddington, Dinah, with her uncanny since of direction, was able to locate the correct train. We had purchased first class tickets because we had been told that the number of passengers in first class was less and that it would be easier to find front facing seats. This was necessary because both Dinah and I suffer from motion sickness and the very thought of traveling in reverse made both of us a bit queasy. Quickly, we settled into the train car and, for the first time since arriving in England, relaxed. Travelling through the English countryside at close to 100 miles per hour was, indeed, a new experience. After a brief matter of time, one is able to get into the rhythm of the train travel and enjoy the view. For those who have not yet had the opportunity, the English countryside is absolutely beautiful. Soon, we entered Wales and watched as the scenery changed from the flat of England to the mountains of the Welsh countryside. Two years ago, during our visit, I fell in love with Wales, its rugged beauty and its people. I cannot describe the feeling I had when we first visited Wales. It was the feeling that I had, at last, returned home after having been away for a very long time. It was a feeling of peacefulness and spiritual serenity. Again, as I saw the beautiful emerald mountains, the pastures divided by hedgerows, the sheep, the rugged shoreline, the tiny roads and the quaint villages, I felt an inner calm and tranquility. Upon our arrival in Swansea, we quickly disembarked from the train and hurried through the station to find our next train, which would take us to Carmarthen. In Carmarthen, we were met by our good friend, Dolores Noonan and taken to her lovely home near Newcastle Emlyn. As always, Dolores and her husband, Peter, were most gracious hosts. Having visited with the Noonans two years ago, I was impressed with the progress Dolores has made with her stud. Especially impressive was a six-month-old double factor spangle. This bird possesses width of head; face, length, feather and overall size, which should do well on the show bench. The other birds in Dolores' stud have made a definite progression. Hard work and dedication certainly have paid off in this stud. Peter has a special interest in antique and modern oil lamps. He showed us some outstanding examples. As we enjoyed seeing these lamps, Peter decided to take us to visit a friend of his who collects antique oil lamps. Never in our lives have we seen such beautiful lamps from all periods of time. John and his lovely wife shared their love for these works of art with us. Again, we had witnessed a part of Wales that very few tourists ever get to see. On Saturday morning, we left by taxi to Aberystwyth where we were to catch a train to Spalding, England, the next leg of our journey. If you noted, we were again traveling by taxi. On the previous evening, a minor accident had caused a noise of unknown origin to develop in the Noonan's automobile. Rather than take a chance of starting the trip to the train station and running the risk of further damage to the car and possibly missing the train connection, we decided that a taxi was again in order. The early morning ride through the Welsh countryside was most pleasant. I felt a tremendous sense of sadness as we left this country that I have grown to love so very much. Our train travel to Spalding was rather uneventful. Upon our arrival, we were met by Pat and Gren Norris and taken first to our hotel to check in and then to their home in Moulton Chapel for lunch and a visit. Dinah and I visited the Norris stud briefly two years ago. I was thoroughly impressed at that time with the budgies I saw. With great anticipation, we walked into the aviary! I can honestly say that I have never before seen the number of birds of such high quality as those in the Norris stud. Besides being a delightful couple, Pat and Gren share a genuine love for budgies and for their fellow enthusiasts. They have the skills and ability to "build" the budgies to standard. Previously, Pat had described how they go about developing budgies of the quality they demand. Pat loves the sky blues and light greens while Gren loves the dark factor birds. They both share, however, a common dream and ideal for budgies. Minutes quickly moved into hours as we talked about budgies and looked at example after example of magnificent budgies. All too quickly, we had to call an end to the evening's activities and return to the hotel. The next morning, Gren arrived to once again transport us back to their home. Again, more time was spent in the aviary looking at the budgies. I had seen a very young violet cock when we visited last and was, at that time, impressed. I asked Pat about the bird and she produced him for my inspection. It is difficult to imagine that an impressive bird could become even more impressive but that is exactly what this cock had done. More birds; more amazement and finally a video session. We just could not get enough of the budgies. We wanted to be able to view them again and again at our leisure. Pat and Gren took us to their local seed and supply distributor as I had mentioned that there were supplies that I needed but had been unable to locate in the United States. Gren stated that it was nearby but we must have driven for 60 miles to get there. I obtained the supplies needed and as we started to leave, Gren mentioned that this supplier grows his own canary seed. Another first! We drove past acres and acres of growing canary seed plants. Wonder if the freshness of the seed used by Pat and Gren contributes in any way to their success on the show bench? I doubt it but it was just a thought. Next we visited the largest garden center that either Dinah or I have ever seen. Pat and Gren, in addition to their beautiful budgies, also have a beautiful garden (yard for us Americans). It is apparent that they both love nature and all things beautiful. We were taken back to the hotel for a short rest and then to a lovely local pub for dinner. Dinah had expressed a desire to eat in a pub on this trip and she certainly had that wish fulfilled. The food was delicious and the fellowship was unforgettable. We returned to the hotel, tired but pumped because of all the activities. The next morning, Pat came to the hotel and transported us to the train station where we began the last leg of our trip. It was with great sadness that we departed from Spalding as we had truly enjoyed the company and hospitality of our friends. After another rather uneventful train ride and yet another trip through the London underground, we arrived in Oxted, Surrey and were met by Carolyn Spalding. Carolyn is a transplanted American having lived in England for 24 years. Carolyn and her husband moved to the United Kingdom because of Ray's job. Carolyn runs a lovely bed and breakfast out of her impressive home in Oxted. We highly recommend her accommodations to anyone wishing to visit the area. Carolyn is a breeder of primarily the rare varieties. Although she has a nice stud of normals, her love for the rare varieties is evident. Once in her aviary, we saw Rainbows, Saddlebacks, Slates, English Fallows and some rather lovely Clearbodies. Although I had corresponded with Carolyn several times via the Internet, we had never actually met before our arrival in Oxted. Because of a common interest in a little bird from Australia, Carolyn had opened her home to Dinah and I and had planned some exciting events for us during our stay On our first full day with Carolyn, we started the day with a visit to the aviary of Gerald Binks. Dinah and I had visited briefly with Gerald during our visit two years before and had found him to be a very gracious host, a pleasant and knowledgeable individual and a person who is able to share his views and knowledge with others. Upon our arrival at Tanglewood, we were greeted by Gerald and ushered into his sitting room and offered tea. I must say that Gerald looked especially dapper and fit during this visit and was surprised when he stated that he is 65 years of age. We should all be so lucky to look like Gerald when we reach 65. Gerald's wife, Joyce, was not home during our visit as she had a previous engagement. During our last visit, we had the opportunity to also meet Joyce. Simply stated, she is a lovely and very genuine lady. I anxiously waited for Gerald, Carolyn and Dinah to finish their tea so that we could venture into the aviary. After a quick stroll through the beautifully landscaped garden we arrived at the point of destination, the aviary. Upon entering the aviary, I immediately was impressed with the progress that Gerald has made with his birds in the two years since I last saw them. Don't misunderstand me, Gerald had excellent birds two years ago but he has managed to improve them tremendously. Again, we were witnessing a solid stud of budgies. During our entire visit, we did not feel rushed as Gerald explained his breeding program, examined individual birds and recounted many stories of his experiences since beginning his career in this hobby as a young lad. I had known from our earlier conversations that Gerald's father had supported Gerald's interest in budgies from the beginning of his career. Gerald has a picture in his aviary, which shows he and his father working on the foundation for Gerald's second aviary. I mentioned this picture to Dinah. Gerald, with a bit of moistness in his eyes and an obvious amount of love in his voice, described his father and his support of young Gerald in his pursuit of the hobby. Again, after an all too short visit, we left for the next stop on our schedule as prepared by Carolyn. We soon found ourselves at the home of Ricky Watts, a champion exhibitor who specializes in Inos. Again, we found a door to a home of a yet unmet friend opened to us simply because of a mutual interest in budgies. Oh, what a treat! We have excellent Albinos and Lutinos in America but I have never seen the quality of these two varieties like exists in Ricky's stud. Ricky has managed to put head, shoulders, directional feathering and showmanship on his Inos. Surprisingly enough, Ricky stated that he breeds Albinos to Albinos and Lutinos to Lutinos with only an occasional outcross. This totally negates the theory that to have this breeding will result in the budgies becoming smaller. Ricky has done a wonderful job improving the Ino variety. Again, we found a very pleasant, knowledgeable fancier who was willing to share his love of budgies with us. Being pressed for time, we were only able to visit with Ricky for a brief period. Again, I must mention a lovely garden. Great detail is given to the gardens of all the individuals we visited. Being interested in gardening also, Dinah and I had double treats everywhere we went. After an excellent meal, we stopped and picked up Peter Snashfold and drove to the Coulsdon, Surrey for an inter-club competition between the members of the Surrey and Sussex Budgerigar Association and the Sussex Budgerigar Association. We learned that this is an annual event, which is greatly anticipated by the members of both clubs. This mini show attracted more exhibitors than do our regular shows. This was also an opportunity for us to see more quality budgies and to meet some of the people whose names we have read for many years as well as some individuals who are perhaps lesser known to the international fancy. John Davis entertained us with stories about his experiences, Dave and Beryl Gafney, Dennis and Ruby Faulkner, Mick Mapston, Roy Powell, Alan Marshall, Reg Crossman, Peter Snashfold, Brian Scott and Ann Shoosmith. Some of these names are easily recognized by the international fancy. Great conversation was had with these folks. I especially enjoyed talking with Ann Shoosmith who told me that she really loves the Rainbows and is devoting her efforts to breeding this beautiful composite variety. I gathered that Ann is a Beginner. Her husband, although not a fancier himself, supports Ann fully. Our best wishes to Ann and our prayers that she will continue to breed what she enjoys and not worry about anything else. While talking with these individuals, we noted that not one person bragged about their birds or made negative comments about the birds of others. They spoke matter-of-factly about their birds and simply asked our opinions about the birds of those individuals we had visited. The exhibitors truly seemed to enjoy being able to view the show process. It is a pity to us that this is not the norm for shows in the United Kingdom. Perhaps, some day, the exhibitors will be allowed to witness the entire judging process. To those members of the Surrey and Sussex Budgerigar Association and the Sussex Budgerigar Association who made us feel comfortable and welcomed, Dinah and I would like to thank you publicly. Thank you for sharing your evening and your birds with us. After a good night's sleep, we went for our last visit of the trip. We arrived at the home of Ghalib and Janice Al-Nasser in the early afternoon. Our morning had been devoted to completing our shopping for our granddaughter. Could not return to the United States without goodies for Faith Anne our little grand-daughter.. Upon entry into the Al-Nasser home, one is immediately impressed with the treasures collected during visits to other countries to share with other budgie enthusiast. Ghalib and Janice have a number of original artworks by Roy Alpin and Alan Hunt including pictures of budgies owned by the Al-Nasser partnership. Janice was away at work but Ghalib was very adequate in his role as host. After light refreshment of drinks and biscuits we ventured to the aviary. Again, our trip to the aviary took us through a lovely garden area. On the way to the aviary, Ghalib informed me that I would probably be surprised because he and Janice are primarily known for their rare varieties but his aviary actually possesses very few rares. He was totally correct! Although there are a great number of the rare varieties in the aviary, we were immediately impressed with the number and quality of the normal varieties in the stud. It became quickly obvious that Janice and Ghalib are breeders of exceptional knowledge and expertise. Again, as in all of our aviary visits, we found the numbers and quality in the birds. Ghalib allowed us to video his stud and gave comments about various birds viewed. We were able to see a brand new variety, the Cleartail. Ghalib obtained this variety from a friend in another country and is now in the process of working to establish it in his stud. Ghalib uses the most unique nest boxes I have ever seen. The boxes slide into the interior of the breeding cage and are hidden away by a door. The most unusual feature about the boxes, however, is that the rear sliding panel for the box is glass instead of wood. This allows the budgies in the box to be viewed without disturbing them once the outer door to the breeding cage is opened. Ghalib has enjoyed great success with this type box. Although it is unusual, it is highly effective. Ghalib took us to a local French bistro for a delightful lunch where we were able to talk, yet more, about budgies. After finishing lunch, we returned to Ghalib's home where the discussion again returned to budgies. I had noted that many of the breeders we had visited had cage fronts that I admired. They were fibre glass instead of wire. Ghalib made several telephone calls to the manufacturer, negotiated a fair price and arranged for the fronts to be delivered to us before we left to return to America the next day. Always being the representative for the Budgerigar Society, Ghalib invited us to join the BS. We were delighted. Our society would do well to note the welcome package provided by the Budgerigar Society. It is impressive to say the least. Bidding farewell to Ghalib, we drove back to Carolyn's home in Oxted On the way, we stopped and procured the cage fronts, which were delivered to a meeting point. We spent the remainder of the evening trying to fit everything into our suitcases. Suffice to say that we had a bit more carry-on luggage than is normally allowed. I guess the airlines is use to this as we did not have to pay extra for the last minute shopping we did at Harrods in the airport. Well, you can understand that there were a few more teddy bears that Faith Anne did not have and we could not possible deprive her. Isn't is amazing that a little bird can bring so many people of diversity together in a community of friendship? I think that sometimes we lose sight of what is really important in this hobby. It is not really important whether or not we win on the show bench. Just ask Ann Shoosmith. She loves a variety, which will probably never place on a show bench, but she breeds them for the love of the bird. Just ask Carolyn Spalding who opened her home to strangers and arranged aviary visits and acted as our driver during our entire visit with her and just ask all the other wonderful people who shared with us their lives and the love of budgies. Dinah and I have always enjoyed the friends we have made through this hobby. Because of this little bird, we travel all over the United States and now, overseas. Because of this little bird, our lives have become richer because of the many wonderful people we have met. Because of this little bird we have memories which will last us a lifetime. To all of our friends, thank you for being part of our lives. To our new friends in the United Kingdom, thank you for making two visitors to your beautiful part of the world feel welcome. Information from Larry Moore

There you go, all my chicks to date have had baring, except for the opalines and spangles. There is always something new and exciting in this hobbie. Thanks Lovey.

The manner in which an aviary or Birdroom is designed can add or detract from one's enjoyment of the hobby. Until established in the hobby and sure that this is the interest you intend to follow, great expense and unnecessary outlay can be avoided by making use of the existing available space. A garden shed, unused room in the house or even a sectioned off rear of a garage can all be utilised and arranged to successfully house and breed exhibition Budgerigars during the formative years. My first outside flight was a disused wardrobe with the front removed and replaced with wire netting and laid on its side. The sleeping quarters was a "tea chest" fitted with legs and attached to the side of the wardrobe. During the early- and middle-1950s this served me well together with a few breeding cages in my parent's garden shed. No Thought Given to Design Gradually this was extended to a number of units which like "topsy" grew and grew with no real thought to design and became a bit of a shanty town. All this however cost very little, and during that period I began to form the idea of what type of establishment would really suit the requirements of the birds and become an enjoyable feature of the garden. This I was able to achieve when moving to my present home in 1977. I prepared a master plan based on my own and other fanciers' experiences and gradually developed the aviary I have today. Avoid Problems First and foremost there are certain preliminary steps to be taken which can avoid unnecessary confrontations with neighbours and local authorities. Don't forget that the erection of a large birdroom in the back garden can often irritate a neighbour both the aspect of noise and appearance. The legal position can often favour the complainant when neighbours fall out. Firstly with regard to planning and the District Council. Recent legislation has made allowance for certain structures under what is referred to as "exempt regulation". No planning approval is required in certain circumstances. These apply to structures such as greenhouses, carports, garden sheds, some sun lounges and aviaries, as long as certain criteria are complied with. The structure in question must not exceed 50% of the garden space available. It must be at least one metre from the boundary with your neighbours and must not exceed 4 metres in height with an apex roof. The maximum space permitted without approval is 40 square metres as long as this does not exceed the 50% of garden space mentioned above. You must be cautious however, as previous additional development to your property affect the amount of space permitted for your aviary. Also the Local Authority's interpretation of the term "aviary" differs from area to area and in all cases applies only to the hobbyist. A very large aviary using up the maximum space may be regarded by some authorities as a business, and planning approval would then be required. Don't forget that although legally an aviary may be permitted the question of noise pollution is a separate issue and can still bring problems. Seek Advice First With regard to planning approval I would recommend going along to your local council taking with you a simple plan of your garden. This should show house and the other houses in the immediate vicinity. It should include boundary fences and walls and other structures such as greenhouses or sheds already in your garden. Once verbal agreement has been reached send them a courteous letter together with a copy of the agreed plan and request that they confirm in writing that they have no objection. The reply, if favourable, should be kept somewhere safe for future reference should the need arise. Next call on adjoining neighbours and seek their approval of what you are planning. Offset any doubt they may have regarding noise or spoilt views and you will be off to a good start. When deciding on the construction, many factors must be determined, and in the majority of cases cost will be the main factor. I personally favour a brick or block structure as I consider the atmosphere within, both for temperature and humidity, is more stable than with a timber construction. Nevertheless, in my case I eventually decided on timber. You can plan your own shed to vour personal requirements and most timber merchants will build what you require at little extra cost. Take advice on the thickness of the timber as a long exposed shed wall, if insufficiently supported, can be subjected to excessive wind pressure and collapse. Ventilation Prevents Disease My own birdrooms are ten feet high at the roof apex. to allow plenty of air circulation, with all natural light and louvre-type ventilators at a high level above the cages. This I feel gives plenty of ventilation which reduces incidences of dead in shell and also allows the use of all wall areas, with the exception of the door space. All walls and ceilings are insulated with Cosywrap before cladding with "laconite", a spray-painted surface board. This allows me to keep the temperature at a reasonable level with just a one kilowatt fan heater, thermostatically controlled, throughout the colder winter months, when the birds are breeding. The wall surfaces can be easily washed down. Flight areas, both inside and out, are in my opinion, essential to maintain fit active Budgerigars throughout their lives, from barhead to adult. Flights prevent the build up of excess body fat, particularly in hens. In providing flying areas certain rules should be adhered to. Make sure that the inside flight (sleeping area) has at least two perch spaces available for each bird to permit movement. Ensure that both inside and outside flights have sufficient space to accommodate the number of birds you can expect to produce. Overcrowding can easily lead to outbreaks of disease. Have an opening between the inside and outside flights, sufficiently big to allow large numbers of birds to fly together, tiny bobholes lead to broken necks! Vary the perch size and level to ensure adequate exercise for feet and wings. Cages vary in size and design but I consider that stock cages of good size are essential for housing barheads on weaning, for show preparation and for sale birds. Wire Cages Stimulate Birds With regard to breeding purposes, some seventeen years ago, after discussion with Dob Travinecek of the USA, I started to use the all-wire cage. Based on the theory I stated earlier, this was to suit the bird rather than to look as attractive as a matching block of conventional cages. The Budgerigar is a gregarious, flock bird, preferring the company of many of its own kind. It is stimulated by the sight and sound of other Budgerigars. The wire cages simulate a controlled colony type breeding environment. I have found it to be beneficial to my breeding success particularly with difficult birds. A similar effect can be achieved by using wire or glass separating slides in conventional cages. Heating of the breeding space during the winter months is, I consider, highly desirable. A minimum temperature of 50 Fahrenheit should be aimed at although a temperature of 60 Fahrenheit is really enjoyed by the Budgerigar. Heating, together with adequate and suitable lighting is most advantageous in achieving consistent early breeding results. Probably one of the most essential pieces of equipment is the night light. This permits a low level of lighting throughout the birdroom during the hours of darkness. There is no doubt that this can reduce the incidence of addled eggs and infant mortality in the event of night fright by allowing hens to find their way back to the nestbox following a disturbance. Hens Will Nest Anywhere Nesting boxes are also found in many different sizes and designs. No matter what the human eye perceives as suitable, hen Budgerigars will seek out any dark corner or enclosed space to lay their eggs. For purely reasons of convenience, I adopted the plastic nest box some years ago, and use these in all my wire cages. They are long-lasting, easy to clean, do not harbour mites, and in the event of a joint breaking are very easy to repair with a hard plastic adhesive. I still use a wooden concave and a handful of sawdust with these nest boxes. American Innovation Pays Dividends One recent addition to my outside flights, which I discovered in the United States, is a water misting system. This sprays a very fine rain over the birds which is most welcome during hot spells and can be used to improve feather condition during the weeks leading to the open shows. It is also most effective in bringing birds into wonderful breeding condition when used after the Autumn moult. I feel it simulates the natural rain which occurs in the Australian Spring thereby triggering the birds' own reaction. This subject of management has many different facets all of which I cannot touch but there are the basic points. Informaton from Jeff Attwood

okay Bird A is 39 days old and what I would expect from a normal at this age. A Young Cock Bird B is 26 days old. The features on the head is what I find amaising. I haven't seen a normal with hardly any baring. This is what I would expect with a Spangle or Opaline but not a normal. Going into show aspects, the width of head and depth of mask is nice and also the spots at this age. A very nice Young Cock.

Andrea it could be that I know the breeder being from your area. Can you read the ring number? It might read something like this. PR 06 123 the 0 might be a triangle or a dash (-). You might be lucky and it is PR 1G -6 123. If so I know the Breeder.

Yes they get their carrots and greens.

Mmm I might change my call to Female after that last Photo. She is either a recessive pied or Dould factor dominate... I didn't know DF Dominents have orange Beaks as well.. You learn something every day here :glare:

umm very interesting answers. I'll let some more people try before answering. Any thoughts on gender?

Here are two birds. guest their ages Bird A Bird B No they are not related.

When Beginners first come into the Budgerigar Fancy they must be rather confused as to the nature of the various studs they encounter or read about. Accordingly, it is useful to give an outline of the existing pattern of established studs in order to suggest a route which may help beginners through their early years in the Fancy. Colour-specialist Studs The first type is the colour-specialist. These are the studs of fanciers who have a high preference for a particular colour, and in an ideal world would keep no other. For example, there were and are, many fanciers whose preference would be the Light Green, particularly in its Normal form. They would like all their cocks and hens to be pure Normal Light Greens. However, in practice, this is seldom achievable for two main reasons. First, outcrosses, (which are essential periodically in all studs), may be carrying other colours, for example, Blue, or other varieties such as Cinnamon or Opaline. And second, the recognition that another variety, such as the Opaline, may be needed to improve a certain feature, for example spot, mask or shoulder width. So, in the real world, Light Green Specialists include other colours or varieties within their stud, although the overwhelming colour is Light Green. The Blue series is similar, but because it is recessive to the Green or Grey forms there is less of a problem with regard to unexpected colour variations, although the problem with varieties such as the Cinnamon applies. Variety Specialists Type two is the variety specialist stud. In this situation the aim is to keep one variety and exclude all others. This specialization may take two forms. First, there is the type of specialist who maintains a particular variety, such as the Normal, but is not too concerned about the body colour. In this type of stud you will find Normal Greens, Blues, Greys and Grey Greens, but few if any Opalines or Cinnamons. Other variety specialists have studs of Cinnamons, Opaline Cinnamons and Opalines in various colours and combinations. Further examples or variety specialist would include Recessive Pieds, Clearwings, Lacewings, Fallows and other rare varieties. The second group of variety specialism is that of the Lutino and Albino, which are unique in that variety and colour are inseparable. Such specialists are extremely reluctant to bring in any other variety or colour as an outcross although the need for size and feather makes this inevitable on occasions. Miss Kirkby-Mason had an outstanding Lutino stud where it was rare to see any other colour present. Nowadays, many fanciers keep Lutinos in addition to mainstream colours and varieties. The Mixed Stud The third type is the mixed stud. A beginner, perhaps with colour or variety in mind, once asked Alf Ormerod, "what sort of Budgerigars should I keep?" Alf's reply was simple and direct, "Good uns" he said. That statement is indicative of the way the modern fancier is moving. While he might have certain preferences the over-riding factor is that of quality and the pursuit of the "Ideal". To confine oneself to a particular colour or variety may be too much of a constraint, and despite one's preferences, the route ahead may well be dictated by the birds rather than the fancier. For example, two prominent Lancashire partnerships, the Hallams and the Pilkingtons, told me that the bulk of their successes on the show bench have been with Grey Greens. The studs of Harry Bryan, Alf Ormerod and Mrs Moss were typical mixed studs of the past, and I believe the majority of studs today are in that category. Several reasons are given for this trend. One is that judges, who have to judge all varieties, find it useful to keep a wide range of colours and varieties to help them in their judging. Another is that some fanciers keep abreast with market forces and therefore take on those types which are selling well such as the Spangle in the 1980's. A more acceptable need for outcrosses in order to upgrade a stud or to improve a particular feature. This forces a fancier to buy birds which may match up to these physical needs, even though the colour or variety is not compatible with his preferences. Personal Preference To give an example from my own experience, my preference is the Normal Grey Green, but the predominant feature in my stud was the Normal Cinnamon Grey Green. Many years ago I acquired a Normal Grey Green cock. I then visited Paul and Joe Frigs for a hen but the only available suitable bird was a Normal Cinnamon Skyblue. This led the stud along a different trail to the one I had envisaged. Nowadays I have Normals, Cinnamons, Opalines, Opaline Cinnamons and Spangles in Grey Green, Light Green, Grey or Blue. To some extent I am perhaps typical of many fanciers in my area, but experience has taught me that combining Normal, Cinnamon and Opaline is a very useful cocktail in the production of good quality Budgerigars. To sum up, I would advise Beginners to make quality their top priority and not to become obsessed with one particular colour - or variety, least not in their early years in the Fancy. Information from Bernard Kellett edit: My preference is towards the Spangle. - Daz

Well rain has fallen to stop construction. Last night sitting under the pergola having a quiet drink and thinking about things, I decided to put a big effort in to finish the shed today. Maybe thinking like that brings on the rain. One window done. One end trimmed. If it stops raining great...i'll finish the other end and try to get the other window in. If it doesn't stop raining ... great, we really need the rain. Thanks for the tip Kaz, I am going to insulate the roof and sides but if that doesn't work i'll try the Shade Cloth as well.

Thank you all. I know it is hard to find good Information of Show Birds. I have been collecting information now for just over a year. I hope that is better coming to this forum for the information than trying to find it yourselves.

This information is for Breeders of Show birds, other might find this information disturbing.... The initial part of the discussion will cover questions that are asked on the handling of budgerigars during sickness and from there it will be basically an open forum with back up questions and answers enclosed if required. I have a bird that is off-colour and needs medication or food administered directly into the crop, how do I do this? To respond to this question I showed a video on crop needling. I then demonstrated the process first and then observed whilst others partook. Remember that the budgerigar is held in your left hand, facing you. Slowly insert the crop needle and rotate downward aiming for your left thumb. You should feel the ball of the crop needle against your thumb. I, in the main, use an 8 gauge crop needle and with great success with budgerigars from 3-4 weeks of age onwards, particularly if I am feeding a hand-rearing food. An 18 gauge crop needle for medicating large chicks to adults and 22 gauge for medicating 3-4 day old through to 2-3 week old chicks. The three gauges of crop needles that I use: 8, 16 and 28 gauge crop needles If I am asked to inject my budgerigar by the vetinerary surgeon, how do I go about it? I will firstly demonstrate the method that I use. Always feel for the keel bone and then inject into the muscle. Each time the bird is injected, alternate from left to right of the keel bone, to help the reduction of bruising. On removal of the needle, I usually massage the injected area. It is important that prior to injecting the bird, that you 'bleed, the needle of air by flicking your finger onto the syringe (needle facing up) and pushing the "plunger" until air bubbles are no longer present, and only liquid is emerging from the needle. Do you have any suggestions for identification of specific diseases of the budgerigar In a word, "No." It is imperative that a proper diagnosis is made of any perceived problem by your Veterinarian, prior to treatment with any drug. Some fanciers will "treat" their sick bird with a cocktail of drugs in a hit and miss treatment that may well kill the bird, or camouflage the actual problem, thus making diagnosis for the Veterinarian difficult. Some of these "cocktails" have proven useless, as they destroy the benefit of each other. The best policy, as stated before, is to seek the Vets advice. What procedure should you follow when introducing new birds into your establishment? All introduced budgerigars should be quarantined for approximately 6 weeks. By quarantined, I mean totally isolated from your aviaries, thus reducing the risk of spreading disease if, per chance, there was a problem present. During this quarantine period, faeces and crop samples should be taken by your Veterinary surgeon or, if you are able, collect the samples yourself and deliver to the Vet for testing for worms, coccidiosis, psittacosis etc. My preference, particularly with imported birds, is to have the Veterinarian bring his microscope and necessary equipment to my establishment, to enable on the spot testings for canker and megabacteria plus "set" the slides with faeces and crop samples for further examination and testings back at the clinic. A spread sheet is produced identifying all of the birds to be tested, with results added as they come to hand. The beauty of this system is that individual "problem" birds can be isolated into holding cages for specific treatments. It would be a good idea at this stage, if all is clear, to treat the birds with an appropriate probiotic to colonise the gut and exclude harmful bacteria. Approximately 2 weeks after the arrival of the new birds, introduce to the quarantine facility (again only if all tests are clear), either a "control" bird, or droppings from your own aviary-kept birds (it would probably be a smart idea to have had some tests done on these budgerigars at the same time as the birds that are in quarantine, to ensure all is well). This helps to introduce "good" bacteria from the aviary-kept birds, to the quarantined birds, without a major risk. It is best to establish that the "good" bacteria is compatible prior to releasing the new birds into the established flock. An appropriate time to introduce purchased birds is during the breeding season if possible, the birds can be paired instantly (if breeding fit), and the period during breeding acts as the quarantine period. The idea of isolation in wire breeding cabinets will be questioned. I prevent contact via clear perspex dividers The birds still require farces and crop tests. The use of "control" birds in all aviaries can be of benefit. By "control" bird, I mean a fit bird of inferior quality, flying with your required birds (2-3 per flight), for the purpose of availability for blood sampling or autopsy if a problem arises within that flight. Is it worth repairing damaged eggs? Yes. Okay then, how do you go about repairing damaged eggs? Many an egg has been saved and many more could have been saved, if time was taken to assess the severity of the damage. If the egg has just been laid through to early embryo stage, examination can be made with a "laser" torch to assess if the white is full of air bubbles, if this is the case, the damage is too severe. If the embryo is visible, and blood appears to have "collected" on the one side within the egg, this damage is possibly too severe but worth attempting to salvage. Almost any other damaged eggs should be repaired, within reason. I have Selleys Aquadhere PVA non-staining, non-toxic wood working glue on hand along with dry shells from hatched eggs or from clear eggs that have been opened and left to dry for the repairing process. Do not use too much glue, just a thin film, as drying time is extended. Carefully select and shape the patch for the repair. Wait for the glue to totally dry prior to returning to the nest box. I usually keep the repaired egg between my lips whilst I go about the other aviary duties. I then place the patched area of the egg on some fine sawdust to see if the sawdust attaches to the egg, if so, I wait a little longer, retest in the sawdust and return to the appropriate nest box. The biggest mistake you can make is returning the egg with wet glue and later finding the egg attached to the hen as she leaves the nest box. What do you feed your birds and does this continue unchanged throughout the year? It is essential to feed a variety of good quality "dry" seed all year round. A daily supply of soaked or sprouted seed, this must be drastically reduced during the warmer weather. A daily supply of greens eg., silver beet. A weekly, or fortnightly supply of gum leaves and branches. A continual supply of grits both hard and soft. A daily water supplement eg., Calcivet daily and Soluvet 3 times per week (note you can mix the Calcivet and Soluvet together) leading up to and including the breeding season - after the breeding season is completed, stop the Calcivet usage and reduce the Soluvet to 1 to 2 times per week. I periodically review my feeding programme. I have stated in the past that when one sights a "positive" practice in someone else's aviary, and that practice suits your purpose, initiate it. My seed in the main is grown for me in Queensland, and is fed in large, separate containers by variety. By using larger containers, the birds have maximum feeding space, thus reducing stress. The following are fed dry: Plain Canary Jap Millet White French Millet Red Panicum Grey Striped Sunflower Bandicoot Oats Wild Seed Mix My soaked seed mixture is made up of: 10 parts Triticale 10 parts Bandicoot Oats 1 part of "small" mixed seed to which Aviclens is added. This mix is soaked for 12 hours in water, rinsed, drained and fed twice daily. The Aviclens slows down the fermentation process during soaking thus reducing the risk of bacterial contamination of the seed. I feed the birds silver beet daily, unless of course they are being administered a "treatment" via the water. If this is the case, all soaked seeds and silver beet feeding ceases until the "treatment" is completed. On completion of the "treatment", the silver beet and soaked seeds are reintroduced gradually (ie., in smaller amounts). Gum leaves and branches are also withdrawn during any "treatment" as the birds are likely to extract needed moisture from this source rather than the drinking container. Just on "treatment", I withdraw the drinking containers from the aviaries and breeding cages (if no chicks are present), at about 2pm and reintroduce at about 10am the following day, thus encouraging all of the birds to get a share of the "treatment". After any given "treatment" or a show, I give the birds a 1 to 3 day probiotic course. I prefer open drinking vessels in the aviaries that are made of pottery, glass or enamel. I detest the bottle with the "drip" system as I do not believe that the birds get a fair go at drinking in an aviary situation. The birds like to eat together and drink together as in the wild. I also believe that the risk of disease from this system is greater as any problem bird leaves a "concentrated form" of the problem at the small outlet. Hard grit ex Broken Hill, shell grit, Mount Gambier limestone, dolomite and cuttle fish obtained locally, are made available at all times, and beach sand is spread under the aviary perches. The moult and breeding season sees minor changes to this programme - if I get a feel that the birds need a little something extra, they get it supplied. Millet sprays being one of these little extras, in fact the nursery cage is swamped with these sprays, as it seems a preferred source of intake for the "weaned" birds. The diet of the budgerigar will vary from aviary to aviary - it is the breeder of these birds that has the final say on what is presented to the birds, and not the birds themselves, so surely, we owe it to them to give the best that is available to encourage a long and fertile life. What do you think? Would you breed with birds that have been affected by, and remain a visual French Moulter? If so, would the progeny or later descendents be afflicted? What do you believe causes French Moult? To the first of the 3 questions my answer is "Yes", if it is a quality bird. Jeff Attwood visited my establishment on his last visit to Australia, and saw a Grey Green Cock of exceptional quality. He suggested I lower the perches in the breeding cage to 12mm from the floor. I had good results with this. In the first year the first round chicks were perfect FM-wise as were the first round chicks of the following year, but in the second round of both years, I had 2 FM chicks in each nest. It should be noted that in the first year, another pair had a FM chick and the second year a number of pairings did, so I could not confirm anything from this. I have thrown many theories around about French Moult prior to the evidence that French Moult is caused by a virus, without ever coming up with anything concrete. The feather problems always seemed to appear in the latter part of the breeding season, in my case Summer (December). Up until a few years ago, I always managed to produce 2 or 3 French Moulters. Last year there were 5 or 6 FM and around 7 tail-less wonders The year prior, there were 35 FM and 2 or 3 tail-less wonders. There have also been the odd few that have an appearance that the tail, and in some cases, some of the body feathers, have a quill within a quill, similar I guess to a "break" in wool, once a sheep has been under some kind of set back. My initial theory was, that as it was the end of season, the birds may be losing some of their breeding fitness, plus I may not be giving them the full attention that they deserve, in that I should perhaps be increasing the protein content in that last month of breeding. The next theory was, that a mite could be the cause, but because it was occurring in random nests and with random birds, this theory was again questioned. Now that scientists have discovered a virus and also are, I believe, in the advanced stages of finalizing a vaccine for the virus, it has opened up the possibility of "controlling" one of the dilemmas of the fancier. Even after the knowledge of the latter, I question the random choosing of the birds that do become French Moulters. Thus, I believe all three suggestions might have some bearing on the problem. If the diet of the parent birds is not adequate, it could be fair to say that some of the youngsters might not be "totally" fed, thus becoming vulnerable to a virus, or even other forms of infection. Therefore, within any given nest there could be birds that are more vulnerable than others, thus perhaps, explaining why not all of the birds within the nest are affected. This virus may be air-borne, but may also be carried by a mite. There always seems to be evidence of mite when French Moult is found - this might not be the case in all aviaries but certainly the aviaries that I have visited in this country that have had French Moult, have also in the main, had evidence of mite. The presence of the mite, and the mites activity of sucking blood from their hosts, may break down the birds resistance again making the bird vulnerable to the virus, or perhaps the mite may be the transfer agent? Regards the "short tail syndrome", there have been claims of success by feeding those affected birds with vitamin "K", a blood clotting agent, via the crop? I am yet to trial this, but I will, and it will be via the crop and by injection, and on birds that have been this way for 10 -24 months. I have been given a word of warning by a chemist that, if too much Vitamin "K" is administered, it may cause a heart attack - tread carefully. Do you number eggs as they are laid? Do you clean out the nest boxes between rounds? At what stage do you remove the youngsters from the nest box? Yes, I number all of the eggs plus write the cage number upon them as well, ie., Egg 1 Cage 2 = 1:C2. I then write the date the egg was laid and the nest it was transferred to upon the nest box info sheet. I aim to spread the eggs throughout the breeding cages as an insurance against losing a complete nest of eggs, if per chance, the hen dies on the nest, or her eggs are damaged etc. I aim to clean the nest boxes out between rounds and insert a new lot of sawdust. This can be a bit risky if a hen has already started to lay as she, or even the cock may attempt to clean the sawdust out, thus risking the breaking of the eggs. I prefer to remove youngsters at about 3 1/2 weeks of age and place them in a "protective" area on the floor of the cage, (a cover with a concave base, openings in the front and one side). The concave is filled with seed at morning and night and millet sprays are added to encourage the chicks to eat, the cock still continues to top them up and the hen can get back to laying round 2. Chicks are then totally weaned at 4-5 weeks. What advice would you give to someone just commencing in the fancy and aiming to purchase birds? I usually advise first-year beginners to forget about expensive birds until they have learnt a bit about breeding practices. In fact, I have suggested to some new fanciers that aimed to purchase birds from me, to come back after 12 months and see if they still want spend their money. A few do, and have continued with the hobby. Others are thankful of that advice, as they did not continue on. Once the new fancier does start to get an eye for a bird, regardless from whom they purchase from, they should aim to buy 1 cock and 2 hens or 2 even pairs that are hopefully, related and from a good background. Editor's note.This article has been abstracted from Nigel Tonkin's notes, formulated for a lecture given at the 22nd Annual Golden Cob Australian Championship Budgerigar Show in 1996, hosted by the Queensland North & Central Zone Budgerigar Council. Information from Nigel Tonkin

He is a cock. Yellow faced. possibly type two due to the yellow on his back. He is a ressive pied. (Orange Beak) A young bird with the banding less than 3 months old. Irus ring is fake not pure. He is a blue series bird, Blue Cheek Patches (to my computer) Need a clearer photo with out the flash to see the colours.

Hello Moo, Welcome to the forum. Hath is in England. Never got around to ask what part. You can send him an email or PM him. Best of luck. Enjoy the forum and Merry Christmas.

I would throw the eggs out. It's best for the pair of them at this stage.