Daz

If you are just starting it would pay not to do anything for a few months except to go to shows meet with people join a Club and start to get an idea of what Show Birds are all about. Many people jump right in and make costly mistakes from the start. Club members will help you start the right way. Here is a list of steps I believe you should take. Look at shows Join a Good Club Get as much information as you can. Writen and Verbal. Design, build or convert an existing shed in to a working aviary with breeding room. Meet with breeders that are doing well on the show bench to buy some related pairs. You should start with good normal birds. By normals I mean Normal variety. Spangles, Opalines, Cinnamons will come later. They should be of good stock and be related. Thats is Uncle and neice, Aunt and Nepher. If you can only afford three birds see if you can get an outstand Cock and then two sisters unrelated to the cock. But the best thing to do first is to get information. I have many books now on the subject of Budgerigars and Show Budgies but the best is "The Challenge", Breeding Championship Budgerigars. by Gerald S Binks I highly recomend it to all Show Breeders and Budgerigar Lovers. JJG I see you are in Brisbane, So am I. I belong to the Pine Rivers Budgerigar Society But you can get a list of Clubs From S.Q.B.B.A. South Queensland Budgerigar Breeders Association. There is a link on the home page of our web site.

For me that is the perfect mating. Grandfather to Granddaughter and Nephew to Aunt. That is the strong point to Line Breeding.

How are the related ones again, I think I missed that. I know of Berry and Squeaker. SF Spangle to SF Spangle should give you 25% DF Spangle but not as many as you think. I have had two rounds with Spangle grey green to Spangle grey green and have not had a DF Spangle. Jeff Attwood is a big fan of Spangle to Spangle and is convinced that Spangle to normal is not the way. As he is the Vice President of The Spangled Budgerigar Breeders’ Association I'd say he probibly knows what he is talking about.

I would go Thistle to Kree... New thoughts on Spangle to Spangle. I have gotten larger chicks with good wing marking from the last two pairings. Berry to Pie ... you may get Visual Violets. Ringo to Squeaker .... You may get visual violets That leaves Reepicheep to Poka. That will be interesting. might help with size.

Hi Lisachromis i have paid over a $100.00au ea for some of my birds and have been at auctions where the prices have gone over $3,300au for birds. The best chicks I have came from the pairing of an $80au to a $30au. I have also some nice birds coming from a pair that the Cock was given to me and the Hen cost $30au. I have found that buying birds came be hazzardous. I have a pair that cost me over $200au and haven't goten any chicks from them. Starting out, I would start small and wouldn't go past $60au a pair and buy direct from a good breeder. We have Pet Stores selling pet budgies over $40au ea. So I think a pair of decent show birds for $60au a pair is a very good buy.

It s rare to find open roofs on Aviaries for show breeding. Mostly because the wild birds can do their droppings into the aviary and spreed desease. Anyother reason is the wire used is usually galvanised and the rain washes the lead and zinc into the aviary floor where the birds drink it with the results being heavy metal posioning. I would perminantly cover the roof of the aviary and introduce a low voltage fountain to cool the birds. That way you can control what is in the water. I would add Avicleans to the water at the recommended dose to stop bacteria and algie forming.

umm never heard of it till now. I did some checking first as it seem strange to me, know what come from it if planted. Australian Newsletter on Hemp Seeds

Why did you breed before you got into showing? As a hobby/fun? I guess I breed for the pleasure of seeing the young develop. It is a great feeling when you see the young mature and leave the nest and join the others.

I am involved in showing Budgerigars as a hobbie. I breed to improve the features of the birds to try to reach a standard of excellence as discribed in "The Standard" . To reach this standard is a challenge which I have accepted.

They seem to carry some of the origin traits of the wild bird. We have had rain here recently after a long spell of dry and all my pairs have gone straight to the nest. The wild birds usually breed after rain when they know the grasses will start to seed.

That is correct Joey. It is better to look at the qualities of the birds before colour. I also wouldn't go out and get different varieties. Just say with two or three pairs of normals. Other varieties are used to improve certain features and you will learn about these as you go. Three good pairs of normals should only cast around the $180.00au mark all up. It's a good starting place.

Hath have you heard if flecking is recessive or dominant? The Cock above sired 11 chicks all clean capped and most very good quality. I am interested if there is a line of thought in Brittan on the genetics involved with the flecking.

You will loss points using a flecked bird on the bench but saying that I have seen many win. Remember that to use a flecked bird you will need to keep good records of it's chicks. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a26/darry.../GBS--4-357.jpg Here is a bird I am using. He is flecked. I have had 11 chicks from him. none are flecked but could be carring the gene. These will not be paired to any flecked birds or birds that have come from flecked parents. The chicks are very good. One came 2nd in it's class last show and will be put up on the bench in February.

Thanks Feathercrest. I have put a whirlybird on the roof and currently working on the electrics in side.

You got to like Haths Advice.

I give seed that has cod liver oil and wheat germ oil soaked for 24 hrs to the flock. It is one way of geting the much needed vitamins A,D & E. These vitamins are need by the birds Immune system. Mixture is 5ml to 500grams

I assume you'd have heated breeding rooms then? To keep the temps warm enough through winter? Bea as you know Budgerigars will breed near freezing point. Here is Bribane it doesn't get much past 10C at night so heated Breeding rooms are not a problem. Hath could give more of an idea of breeding room construction in England.

A dosing tube is like a crop needle but instread of a metal tube (16 gauge for budgerigars) it uses a plastic tube. You can get them from good Produce Store. Brendale Produce or the one at Rothwell should have them in stock. They are best used for Crop washes in case of Sour Crop.

It is interesting that the writer is an Englishman and this was writen over a decade ago. But even then the discussions was on diet and vitamins. I currently use a soluble vitamin from Vetafarm and also a mineral suppliment from Goldern Cob. Murphys minerals is also very good, but I can't seem to get a hold of it. In Australia there season are reverse. Breeding season starts in March and goes through to november. There is some breeding going on during the summer months but only in areas and aviaries that can give a comfortible temperature. I have 6 pairs breeding at the moment and the temperature is kept between 24 and 32 degrees C. As said in the article the Domesticated Budgerigar including the Show variety does still keep some of it's natural tendencies. As we have gone through a drough period and now have rain the pairs have started to lay their eggs. This is part of their natural cycle in the wild. Tbe breed while thereis water and food that comes from it. Many top breeders will pair up near the end of a long dry period to capture this effect. My routine today was to clean the cages and give the protien additive with greated carrots and soaked oats that the breeding birds have gotten for the past year. This is done in the morings. This afternoon the water is changed. I use Avicleans to stop bacteria build up and I also use Apple cider vinigur to stop Megabacertia. (Aviarian Yeast Desease). The protien mix that is left is feed to the birds in the flight. I then give Grated Carrot, Mung beans, Snow pea Sprouts, Celery and Corn Kernals. All birds except Breeding Pairs with any chick under 14 days gets this. The mixture is high in vitamins but also with water. Young chicks get enough liquid from the hen and doesn't need any extra water to dilute the food they are getting. They need protien, vitamins and minerals. I use the Supplimentry vitamins every 4 weeks in a water management program.

Although the ultimate aim for the majority of exhibition budgerigar breeders is lasting success on the show bench, for me no aspect of the hobby can surpass the thrill of seeing a number of top class youngsters appearing in the nestbox and progressing into the stock cage. I never cease to find this the most rewarding and satisfying part of our hobby. All too frequently however, hopes are dashed, and the promise of success indicated by top class breeding stock remains unfulfilled. There is no doubt, that many failures can be put down to misfortune or accident. However, I am convinced that many poor breeding results emanate from poor preparation. As with any hobby, one only gets as much return as the effort put into it, and there is no doubt that budgerigars are no exception. The correct preparation, not only in the organisation of the breeding room, but also in the preparation of the birds, in respect of their general management and diet, can substantially increase the chance of success. For the purpose of this article, I intend to relate primarily to the preparation of the birds. One problem to be overcome, is ensuring that the birds are in prime breeding condition at the appropriate time. The biggest and best shows usually occur in November or December and this unfortunately, does not coincide with the ideal time for the birds to successfully breed, the ideal time is following the annual moult which occurs during September or October. The German Society realise this and make provision for an early delivery of rings. Although budgerigars have been domesticated for over one hundred years, they still demonstrate their natural instincts, which include the prominent desire to reproduce, in what would be the Australian Spring, namely our Autumn. Therefore, they must be artificially stimulated to maintain, or retain, breeding condition slightly later in the year to coincide with the issuing of the rings. This can be achieved by the artificial use of lighting to extend the daylight hours, heating, and of course, diet. Let us first off all consider the diet. It is surprising how many fanciers are frequently feeding their stock with a dry seed diet throughout the year. Although most birds will exist reasonably happily and healthily on this diet, an improvement in their general well-being and overall breeding results can be achieved by a more interesting and varied feeding plan. Although there is no doubt that a varied diet throughout the budgerigars life, from nest-box to adulthood and breeding cage, is highly desirable, stimulation can be achieved by supplementing the diet immediately prior to the breeding season. I offer a general seed mixture of Canary seed, part English and part Australian. The millet seed is fed separately, and consists of a mixture of all available millet with a predominance of Japanese, this I find, is a satisfactory method, and avoids any waste. Twice a week they benefit from a small quantity of tonic seed, this consists of various types of seed, such as linseed, niger, sunflower, hemp. groats, etc. During late August, and throughout preparations to, and during the breeding season, I add two teaspoons of a cod-liver oil and wheat-germ oil to approx 5 kilos of seed. The oil is worked well into the seed mixture and left for 24 hours to impregnate the seed. Before feeding to the birds, two tablespoons of kelp (powdered sea-weed) is thoroughly mixed with the seed. Kelp is readily available from any health food stores, and is an outstanding source of minerals and trace elements essential to the overall health of the birds. With regard to the drinking water, I use only rain water, which I collect in a large plastic container. For those that cannot collect rain water, it is a good idea to feed bottled spring water. The mains water supplied by the Authorities is full of additives for water purification. This maybe entirely suitable for humans, but does not favour the birds. Over the years I have met many fanciers who claim their stock benefits from the use of non-mains water. Then during the lead-up to the breeding season, I add one teaspoon of a multi-vitamin mixture to a .5 of a litre of water, also a teaspoon of Cider Vinegar is also added. I find this enhances the general well-being of the birds, and the cider vinegar ensures the cleanliness of the water drinkers, and stops any build up of a slimy film. A good grit mixture is recommended. Recently, my birds have been given the mineral-menu blocks as supplied by Alfred Merkle. This, I find, takes the place of grit and cuttlefish. At this time, it is well worth introducing a soft food mixture. There are many different soft foods on the market; choose one that suits you best, and once started, should continue throughout the season. It takes a little time for the birds to get used to the soft food, and by introducing it early in the season, by the time you have chicks, your pairs will have been used to it and look forward to it being fed to them. Having discussed the methods of feeding used in the preparation to breeding, it would be remiss of me not to mention other factors which I consider most essential in the general build-up to the breeding season. I refer of course to exercise, lighting and to a certain degree, heating. It must be remembered that we are attempting to induce our birds to breed at what is a most unnatural time, and every effort must be made. I remain convinced that exercise in flights, preferably partially in the open air, if not essential, will definitely improve the well-being of budgerigars. This also affords the opportunity of offering bunches of twigs, seeding grasses, if available, and green food to the bird. I find the practice of chewing, particularly by the hens, makes them most eager to breed. I am certain the hens benefit from the contents of bark and leaves. Passing on to lighting, I make use of as low-voltage level of lighting during the hours of darkness at all times of the year. I find this helps to avoid injuries and deaths caused by night frights. It also reduces the problems in the breeding cage, when hens are incubating or feeding young chicks. I gradually increase the amount of artificial light from the end of August to the time of pairing up. This will artificially stimulate the birds metabolism into believing that spring has arrived, and breeding time is imminent. It must be remembered, however, that not every bird will be ready for pairing at the same time. More success is likely, by waiting a few days before pairing birds, so as to ensure both partners are in the peak of condition, both physically and mentally for breeding Information from Jim Hutton

Thanks it's taking a lot of my spare time but I want the birds back into flghts as soon as I can. It will still take a few more weeks before that.

Just about finished. A little bit more outside and then start on the inside.

Hi Tony and welcome to the forum. As you have seen we aim to help :budgiedance:. Your cage sounds great. Longer than higher. The perches should be across the cage not length wise that way they can fly back and forth. I leave my cages open and let the birds fly in the house, with precaution to cooking. Budgerigars are grainivores, their main diet should be seed. Pellets are fine as an additive. They are one of the few parrots that hull their seed (remove husks) because of this they don't depend on grit to grind up their food. If you were to use sand make sure it is washed without any thing added. Lettuce is mostly water with little nutritian. I would be giving them endive or celery. Mine recieve grated carrots, celery, corn, snow pea sprouts, mung beans, peas and lentles. Millet sprays are good but high in fat. Once a week or as a training tool is fine. I feed millet to all my chicks in the nest and in the breeding cages. Wing clipping is up to you, there is a lot of pros and cons for it. I have only ever clipped my birds wings and that is when they are first brought in to the house and only the first 4 flight feathers. They can still fly but not good enough to hit the window at high speed. By the time the feather grow back the have learnt through a lot of training where to fligh and were not to fly. Misting the birds are good for them, but only litely. Misting will get them to preen themselves. This brings out the oils in the feathers. The birds will look better. Show birds are litely misted once every day for weeks leading up to shows. In the way of Vets. It is good to get your birds checked, but it is better to have a preventitive medical program in place. I give my birds additives in thier water such as Probotics, vitamins, calcium, and apple cidar vinigur... not at the same time. I also treat for Megabac, Coccidiosis, Worms.... etc. I use filtered water not water from the tap. Budgerigars hid their illness until it's too late, so the first sign of illness is a good time to get them to the vet. I hope this helps and I hope you enjoy the forum

I've been feeding my birds corn for months, I would tack tem off the lettuce, it's all water and could give them runs (yes I know budgies don't get direa.) if it is wet it is a kidney problem.

We are all affected by the 'green' revolution so why should our birds not benefit as well. I give my breeding and young birds softfood every morning. This consists of: 2 hard-boiled eggs (boiled for at least 20 minutes) 1 dessert spooonful of ground eggshells from the above 4 handfuls of toasted breadcrumbs Half a large carrot These are all thrown into the food processsor and I count to 12 whilst they are reduced to a suitable size. I do make sure that the mixture is not too wet as this can cause deformation of the beaks of the very young chicks. Last week I ran out of carrots and had to find a substitute first thing in the morning. It was a lovely morning, sun shining, birds singing and everything in the garden looking fresh and good. So I took a short walk looking for something to replace the carrot. I found a bed of parsley, another of mint, a couple of plants of basil and coriander. A couple of sprigs of a selection of these herbs were transferred to the food processor. It smelled lovely as I tipped it into the bowl and was received ecstactically by the birds who demolished it far more quickly than they are normally disposed to do. I then went back and picked a few sprigs to throw into the flights and they were demolished in no time. So, in future, when available, herbs will be used in the softfood and I hope they will be much to the benefit of the birds, although carrot will still be used when the herbs are unavailable. I think the important thing is to do everything in moderation, not overdoing anything just because you find the birds like it. Too much green food can make them very loose and would not not be good for them. Hopefully, this tip will prove useful to you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8/05/99 - In response to the above I have received the following from Keith Flockhart in New Zealand: "I was just reading your article on greenfood. Another vegetable that birds go mad over is broccoli. In New Zealand myself, and quite a few others, use sprouted seeds as a source of high protein green food. What is used is mung beans. I use a bean sprouter which is available from a health food shop. The beans are placed in there and watered once or twice a day. I put a reasonable amount of seed in the sprouter and wait until the sprouts begin to put out their first leaves (usually it takes about 3 days). I then take about half of the sprouted seed and put in a sieve. I run water over them to give them a good rinse and then feed to the birds. The remaining seed I give another day to grow and by that time the leaves are a good half inch long. I have had my birds on this for two or three years and find all birds like the mung beans. They can also be sprouted for a lesser amount of time and fed as a sprouted seed only. I do this during the breeding season and often mix into soft food. Out of breeding time when birds do not eat soft food, by mixing it with the been sprouts so you end up coating the sprouts, the birds will eat it. If the above sounds like too much trouble you can go to the supermarket and buy the already sprouted seed they sell for salads and use that." Information from Dolores Noonan 1999