Daz

Finished sheeting all the walls except the top of one end. I have to alter the lighting cabling there. Power has been great. once the ceiling sheets are done i'll connect the lights up. Even the door is sheeted. I thermoscaned the external west wall. Sheet temperature was 63.5C and on the inside wall was 40.5. So I have lost 23 degs with the insulation. Air temperature was 39 C. Temperature under the patio is 39C so no difference. I think it will work.

This is the 2nd edition, As Gerald is in his 70s and this edition has taken 10 years to come out, I don't know if there will be another.

The Challenge on Ebay. I have my copy and it is the most comprehensive book on all aspects of the Budgerigar. It covers buying pet birds and training them to the care of the birds. It also covers in depth the requirements of Show Birds. The first edition is still around 2nd hand for $450.00au. I paid $157.00au for my copy new.

http://home.gil.com.au/~dwellsadsl/prbsinc..._eyed_clear.htm http://www.sqbba.com/breeding_expectations.htm#D Dark-eyed Clear (sf) x Dark-eyed Clear (sf) = 50% Dark-eyed Clear (sf) 25% Dark-eyed Clear (df) 25% Recessive Pied

Quarantine is the primary defence in protecting the flock from the introduction of infectious disease. Its secondary purpose is to determine whether or not the new additions are diseased and then to treat the problem. The quarantine area is where all new arrivals are housed and ideally it should be as far away from the rest of the collection as possible. A separate building or a separate room is always preferred. The standard quarantine period is 45 days. Any imported bird or a bird that has been exposed to other avian species of unknown origin should be quarantined for a period of 90 days. A mistake made by many breeders, is that they believe that any bird, which has been through “Government Quarantine” is free from infectious disease. This is far from correct, as these quarantine programmes are usually designed only to protect poultry from specific economically impacting diseases and is not concerned whether a bird is otherwise healthy. Any bird, which is taken out of the collection and exposed to other birds must re-enter the facility through the quarantine area. The minimum recommended quarantine period for a bird re-entering the facility that has not had direct contact with another bird, is 30 days. In the Quarantine Area, the most important concept to disease control is the “all in - all out” concept. If during the quarantine period new birds are introduced, the quarantine period automatically begins afresh for all of the birds housed there. Good hygiene is mandatory while working in the quarantine area. Discard disposable gloves and/or wash and disinfect your hands after contacting each quarantined bird. Wash your hands in a disinfectant when leaving quarantine. Separate food containers, utensils, etc. should be marked and utilised only in the quarantine area and then with the same bird or group of birds throughout their course of treatment. Ideally, birds should be housed separately. A hospital gown and shoe covers should be worn while in the quarantine area. The gown and shoe covers are then removed as exiting the area to reduce the risk of cross contamination. Feeding, care, and servicing of the quarantine area should be the last task undertaken after all other aviary chores are accomplished. Quarantine records should indicate: 1. The arrival date and source of the bird. 2. Bird identification number. 3. Cage number. 4. Comments, findings of the physical examination. 5. Daily observations of behaviour. 6. List of laboratory tests and results. 7. List of treatments and medications used. 8. Date of release from quarantine. Quarantine protocols, or the type of laboratory tests given and the routine treatments performed, have generally varied depending on the veterinarian, the species, the origin and the value of the bird. Typically, the more expensive the bird, especially if imported, the greater the number of laboratory tests that are given. Dr. Joel Murphy, D.V.M., and Board Certified in Avian Medicine, believes that quarantine protocols should be based on what he refers to as “risk factors”. In terms of the financial loss and loss of time involved in developing your strain of birds, what do you have to lose if a bird entering your aviary carries a disease and 80% to 90% of the flock is affected. If you have a collection of very few inexpensive birds, then your risk is low. As your flock grows, however, and more expensive birds are added to the collection, then the quarantine protocol takes on greater significance. Dr. Murphy feels that quarantine starts with a thorough veterinary examination of every bird entering the aviary. The specific tests and procedures needed beyond the entrance exam, will vary from one aviary to another and are based on an evaluation of the risk factors present in the physical facility that houses the aviary. If, for instance, the birds are housed in a small area, with little ventilation and the risk of a virus spreading quickly through the flock is high, then greater care is necessary when introducing new arrivals. Dr. Murphy suggests, that with Budgerigars, the minimum protocol for all new birds in addition to the entrance exam should be: 1. Gram's stain or Bacterial Culture. 2. Intestinal parasite faecal exam. 3. Treat for psittacosis, regardless of testing. 4. Treat for tapeworms regardless of testing. 5. Treat for Giardia regardless of testing. 6. Treat for Trichomonads regardless of testing. 7. Treat for roundworms regardless of testing. 8. Treat for Knemidocoptes (scaly mite) regardless of testing. 9. Spray all new birds with pyrethrum spray to kill feather mites. 10. Evaluate risk factors with your veterinarian and determine additional testing procedures. an extract from The Master Breeder.

If you are in Brisbane, I make breeding cages to order. Duals Singles and Nest boxes. I also make Stock cages I have my own designs or make to your diamensions. Just PM me.

Some Extracts from Jo's Web Site. This has been translated from Germany. Schauwellensittich (Budgerigar) "If I back-think of it, what I as Schauwellensittich - breeder already experienced everything, then I look on a long time of full defeats and successes back. But never I gave and my continuous breed up brought me finally to the point of the German looking waving CCIT I BREEd. I was born in Augsburg, where I also buildup. I bred Wellensittiche and Kanarienvögel already at that time. Later it struck me then into the Black Forest. In tough rings, the northern quarter of Freiburg, I live since then with my wife and my son in a single family house. Before approximately 35Jahren, when I was still zoo specialist shop owner and an interested Zierfischzüchter, I visited a Wellensittichzüchter in the Black Forest together with a friend. I know still that it had particularly done a violet cheque hen at that time to me and I wished myself such birds to possess and also these to breed. On the same day I bought a pair of Australian - Schecken. The first, second and third brood did not bring however the desired result and I was very much disappointed. Besides the young birds lightened ever more, and three doppelfaktorige Australian Schecken developed. But I gave up not and made myself over the leaving teachings well-informed. Few years later I won already the first group winners on country and federal looking. There I became acquainted with naturally also the breeders of those days and had under other contact to Mr. Sperber from Nuremberg. The time too at that time of one few the breeder in Bavaria was, who original English - Wellensittiche possessed. When Sperber gave its breed up, I acquired a grey Zimt - Opalinen cock and a quite inconspicuous hen with wing errors from the line of its federal winner. The cock fertilized nothing, but got I on detours a Zimt - Opalin - the grey Green cock from the same line, and paired this with the hen and had of it very good Nachzuchten. And put thereby the foundation-stone for my current Zimt - Grandpa LINE. I acquired many further looking birds of considerable - breeders at that time. In addition I got over third also birds from Nachzuchten of the Omerod - Moss - line, as well as Doug Saddler - birds which I always gradually in-crossed. Züchteri, mixing machines “me to a large strong cheque hen help, was at that time my break-through. By the combination of this Sperbers - bird with all other lines my Schauwellensittichzucht was revalued clearly. Already succeeded to me 1978 in Recklinghausen, at twice issuing on AZ - DWV federal looking, the jump into the progressing stage. Afterwards my training as the breed judge followed. The intensified demand for my Wellensittichen used already one year later, than I behind black mountain on federallook 1979 in DIN sheet the best Gegengeschlecht look (0,1 Australian Schecke Zimt grey-green) placed. I paired this hen with an old Moffath bought from third hand - cock. It brought me my deep mask and was probably the basic stick of my current looking bird. In my birds I see characteristics, as, to size “and, strength “, which I breed consciously out. Therefore give I mean Wellensittichen gladly names as, Herkules “, Big bulletin “or, Rambo “. I know that these characteristics cannot be attained with the change of the skeleton. The feather/spring by different widths and lengths as well as the fine branchings are variable give it infinitely many feathers/springs, by whose breeding I man - bird created (only by selection and hard selection was this to reach), which coins/shapes the Schauwellensittiche in the long term and to shower sequences without same help me. 20Jahre intensive breed brought me finally to the point of the German Schauwellensittichzucht, of which I, if I mean magnificent Wellensittiche regard, am very proud. , the German Schauwellensittich “ Like a puzzle compound (in the wahrsten sense of the word) with my ideals conception of a monströsen however very pretty fruitful looking bird with soft feather/spring to breed succeeded to me, my success gives me right. IT FLIES IN ALL WORLD!!! If some one can translate more...Great. Jo's Website (Translated)

Daniel Lütolf Very interesting article, I have heard Joe Mannes speak also very highly of Daniel. It is interesting on his comment about FDs. Feather Dusters first occurred in the same year across England and Europe. There was thought at the time that it might have been caused by radio activity or a viral infection. I believe that many still are unsure of the real cause. Many agree that best to best is a no no. Also the closest that he breeds is Cousin to Cousin. This is interesting that a breeder of Daniel’s standards doesn’t line breed. I have found it is very rare in the Show World. A very good Cinnamon Dark Green Hen

Cheeta is right if the birds are pure, but highly unlikely.. Lutino cock to Cinnamon Hen. Both are sex genes. Cocks could be split to ino and cinamon, Hen could be lutinos. Lutino is a green series bird so the normals should be green unless the hen is split to blue.

Well done Nerwen. The ino gene removes the blue pigmentation leaving the yellow ground colouring, It also effects the Dark factor so how else do you darken the birds colouring except with the violet factor. It gives a buttercup colour. Grey greens can be used to increase sizing of the bird. Opalines are great for Spots and head. Cinnamon helps the feathering. Now an Albino is the combination of two genes the Blue gene and the Ino gene. The ino gene removes the blue pigments to produce yellow and the blue gene removes the yellow to produce white, but in some birds produce a blue suffusion. The breeding of an Albino to a grey, as Hath said, helps to remove the suffusion and give a whiter bird.

Hi guys sorry but the cocks "could" be split ino and split recessive pied.. The hens "could" be Ino split to recessive pied. I use "could" because we also don't know what is in the back ground. I paired Spangle SF grey green to Spangle SF grey green and got. Spangle SF Grey, Spangle Opaline Light green, Opaline Light green and Normal Dark green. No Spangle DF.

Well the External is nearly finished. But I have started on the inside. Insulation has been installed and I am starting to sheet the walls. I am using a white coated masonite. This will help keep the flights and breeding room cool and clean. The Electrics are nearly finished. There is power in the shed and after I finish the sheeting will install the lighting.

The answer to your question is "yes". The main things to give the young is protein, calcium, vitamins and minerals. You will find posts here that have my recepie for soft food. This will increase the size of the chicks.

Oned of your birds or both could be split recessive pied. An orange beak could be a recessive pied. Black beak.. i have no idea. I have clutches with some that have black beaks. they usually grow out of it.

Joey can I surgest that you should read this topic if you havn't already done so....Having a Plan Breeding is not an over night success. You must know and understand your birds. This takes time. The book says that the hen lays eggs every other day... "In most cases" I have had birds miss a few days. Just because the hen has only laid 1 egg doesn't mean it may not be fertile. You should wait and see.

Please don't feed greens to parents with young chicks. It takes away the nuetrician that the chicks need to grow. The parent’s should be feed on high protien, vitamins and calcium as well as essential minerals. If the feed is inadequate the chick can have full crops and die from under nourishment. Greens are full of good vitamins and minerals but it’s not what a growing chick needs. I feed the parents high quality seed with breeding aide added. A mixture of hulled oats soaked over night in avicleans and then rinsed in the morning, High protein mix and grated carrots. The Grated carrots and hulled oaks act as a carrying agent for the high protein.

Joey, I would pair the two up. I hope that opaline is a hen. Opaline sky cock to a cinnamon hen. Any normal hens produced if of good quality will be worth keeping. The cocks will be split to cinnamon and opaline.

Thank you both. Nathan I would contact Australian National Budgerigar Council or The Budgerigar Council of Victoria Inc I have also found, as a rule, that the birds bought at auction are expensive and rarely breed. I have had better luck from Birds bought from fellow members in the club. When buying birds from auctions and breeders that you don't know, you must remember that the birds have been rejected by that breeder. There are many reasons for this. The birds are not up to the standard of that Breeder. The bird may not breed. The hen has been egg bound. The bird is an egg eater. The bird is known to kill it's young. The hen is an internal layer. The breeder bought the bird from someone else and it wont breed. The bird has breed but the off spring havn't been of good quality. When buying from someone in the club that you trust. You will have a better chance of getting a bird that will breed. One thing to remember is that if a bird will breed for someone, there is no guarentees that it will breed for you. The other way is also true. I was given a bird because it wouldn't breed for the breeder. I have had two good clutches from it. Different location, enviroment, feed, water, other birds all contribute to whether a bird will breed or not. You should not hold it against the other breeder if the birds doesn't breed for you. It happens. So to go out and buy expensive birds to start with can cause more grief than pleasure. It is also true that a bird that breed well one season may not breed well the next. Same the other way. If a hen won't lay one season she may lay the next. I have a Cinnamon Grey Cock some of you know, Ash. I have had him for 16 months. He has been paired up with many hens and has never filled an egg. Many would have sold or given him away. I have kept with him and at the moment he has finaly filled three eggs. This is a hobbie of ups and downs. More novices give up the hobbie than stay with it because of the dreams that go sour. I have been lucky that with the help from the club much of the down side hasn't happened. In nearly two years i have breed up to 80 birds. Nearly 20 have been sold or given away. My death rate in all that time has been three birds, counting a Feather Duster. Not counting 1 day old chicks.

When many decide to get into the show budgerigar side they are usually looking at the open class birds on the bench, at shows, on web sites or in books. The breeders of these birds have been breeding for many years or decades. Some like Gerald Binks have put their whole life into it. The new breeders/novices start with dreams of breeding the top show birds in the first or at least the second season. This is not, in the majority of novices, going to happen. The only way to get close to this is to have an endless supply of money and to start with buying the top birds. So what is the new show breeder to do? With my short experience in this area, I think I am on to the right direction. Make a plan. As many in different occupations say we don't plan to fail, just fail to plan. Mine is a five year plan. I am currently in my second year of my plan and have feed back that I am on the right track. My Surgested Plan. 1st Year. Start by joining a club and listen to all the members. See who is winning and ask if you can visit their aviary. While there, ask questions. How have they set up their breeding rooms? What are they feeding their birds in the flights? What do they look for in a bird to see if they are coming into breeding condition? How do they set up their birds? Some put the hen in first for a few days before introducing the cock. What do they feed the breeding pair? How do they set up the nest box and what type and size is it. What do they feed the pair when the chicks hatch? .....and so forth. Don't stop at the first Aviary. Visit as many as you can. Everyone has a different way to do things. Be advised by them and act on it. Go to shows and try to get a job stewarding. Stewarding is bringing the birds from the holding area to the "Bench" for the judge. If you are lucking the judge will tell you what he is looking at and why he picked one bird over another. You will learn to tell the difference between Double factor spangles, Lutinos and Dark eyed clears. You will learn to recognise the difference between grey wings and cinnamons. You will also see why some birds are penalised. After a few shows and visits to aviaries and attending club meetings, 6 months or so has pasted, you can start to think about either the birds you have and/or the birds you are going to buy. You start to think about the aviary you have and/or going to build. Some members might give you birds to start you off and even help with your first pairing. 2nd Year Now comes the crunch. 12 months has past since you though that it might be good to breed and show birds. You are now alone in your aviary with your birds breeding with chicks. With the experience you have had and back up of the members in your club you should have the confidence to take the chicks from the egg to the perch, to the nursery and in to the stock cage. You must remember that this takes time. The chicks will be in the nursery from the time they are capable of feeding themselves until 60 days old. It is at this stage that the new breeder evaluated the birds. This is when the first heart aches start. He looks at his new chicks and compares them to the birds in the top breeder's aviaries or the show bench or the book he is reading by the top breeders. Guest what. They are a bit small. They don't seem to have that puffy head, the spots are small, the head is pointy the bird won't stand on the perch straight enough... etc. The breeder now is despondent. What happened..? Well nothing went wrong. You have just set the foundation to what could be a great stud. You have to wait. This is a chick still a nest feather, an ugly duck. What you first called a pink blob is now feathered and not the Miss or Mister World of the budgie world. Unfortunately this is the time when most new breeders sell their chicks. Thinking that they won't amount to much and that it was a waste of time breeding them. Don't do it! The next thing to do is to make sure you look after these birds. Remember what the top breeders do and move them to the stock cages and leave them until they are 90 days old. They should now b undressing there baby clothes and moulting into their kids outfits. After their moult it is time to move them into their own flight and leave them to mature. Come back in 6 months time to see how they have matured and you should now see the effects of time and your good management. You might be surprised. At 12 months old they still have not reached their peak, it won't be until they are 18 months that you will see the best in them. 3rd Year okay next stage. If you have a large Aviary and can have many birds, great but for many, culling starts at 12 months. By now you should have been to many shows and seen the quality of what is being shown. You should have spent 3/4 of the time looking at the novice section to see what they have brought on to the bench. Hopefully you will be arrogant enough to think to yourself. "I have a better one at home; I could have beaten that one." This is when your "Eye for detail" starts to develop. You should know what birds are best to keep and what should be culled. (Culled meaning to remove by selling or given away). Where do you start? Those 3 pair that you might have started with had 4 chicks each in two clutches each. You now have 24 chicks. This is where the help from good Club members will be essential. I would try to end up with 1: 2 cocks to hens. Now you might say that I only had two cocks in all that breeding, well unless they are bad I might keep them. If they are bad I would think about out crossing a good cock or two. Now you should start thinking about pairing for the next season. Look at relationships and don't forget the original birds you started with. It should be from the next pairings that you should start to see an improvement. So long as you have paired them correctly. This is where the help from good Club members will be essential. Now you can start to think about your Show team. You might have a few chicks from the previous season that has improved enough to be tried on the bench. You might have some Nest feathers, (Chicks that haven't gone through their first moult) that might be good enough for the bench. Put them up. Showing birds in Australia is cheap. It costs 50 cents per bird. If the birds are not good enough to win the judge is usually happy to discuss the down falls. This is a learning stage. 4th year you might have had a few places or even a few wins. You have had your ups and downs. You have had deaths and successes. You know that you have a long way to go but your birds are improving and you involvement with the club has been paying off through hard work and assistance given. You gone to many shows and can see what is needed in your birds to advance. You now have a good team and you start to get constant wins and the points gathered start to elivate you to intermediate status. 5th Year This is the year you need to work hard and hopefully be elevated to Intermediate Class and then you can start to think about the top. By the end of the year, you start to compare your birds to the photos that brought you into this fancy those 5 years ago and think it I am now getting close…….. I am in my sixth year and was elivated to Intermediate Breeder last year. I have had a year off and now ready to move forward. Many of the birds have progressed nicely butit has been hard work with many failures along the way.

Joey the cinnamon colouring not only effects the black pigmentation but also causes the ground colour to lighten. For a very dark grey you would need a mauve with a grey or grey green and then it would take some pairings in a few generations to darken the ground colouring. Breeding any colour to any colour won't get you show birds unless they are of good quality to start with. Also you will need to line breed them to enhanse their features. Starting out with Normals is a good start. But the quality has to be there to start with. Opalesence [spl?], it could be. The photo is of a 2002 rung birds from the PHT stud. Not knowing the parentage of that bird it is a bit hard to say.

Light Green Dark Green Grey Green I'll look for an Olive. Light Green has no dark factors. Dark Green has a single Dark Factor Olive has a double dark factor Grey Green is a mixture of Grey and Green. Grey and Green are the only two colours that will mix. All other colouring is an effect on ground colouring, dark factors, grey factors and violet factors.

A large number of breeders get hooked on Light Greens from the time they take up the hobby. Many think that because the wild budgerigar is green, breeding top-quality Light Greens is easy. It is not. Many have tried to produce studs containing nothing but pure Normal Light Greens and have failed. Pairing Light Green Light Green may seem to be the ideal mating, and it can result in excellent offspring, but it is not the ultimate answer. Have a complete stud of Light greens - to the exclusion of all other colours - and over the course of several years, breeders can lose size and head quality. Breeders are advised to use their best Light Greens with good Dark Greens, Skyblues, Cobalts, Greys and Grey greens - and not just other Light Greens. Top Skyblues - those with first-rate size and good heads - can be excellent mates for Light Greens, especially if they have good, deep, colour. The same applies to Grey Greens and Greys, both of which can be mated to Light Greens, although it is said that the Grey factor can deaden the colour of both Greens and Blues. Fanciers who have good-quality dark factor stock - particularly Dark Greens and Cobalts - can use these birds to advantage with Light Greens because they will enhance the Light Greens' colour, a feature which can spoil an otherwise good exhibit. Opalines can also be used to advantage with Light Greens, although care must be taken to avoid the opalescent markings on the side of the neck that can result when Opalines are mated to Normals. No Normals with opalescent markings should be included in a good stud of Normals. The fault can spread rapidly and give the owner little chance of winning against Normals which are free of this scourge. If there is this disadvantage to mating Opalines to Normals, there is also a lot to be said in its favour, in as much that quality Opaline hens provide chicks with good width of head and large spots - which can often be lacking when Normal hens are used. Skyblues, like Light Greens, are best not paired to mates of the same colour, except in special circumstances. All too often, such matings can result in disappointment unless there is good size in both, and excellent head qualities, which tend to be lacking in all but top Blues. Size can be lost, and colour, and as a result, can become shallow and patchy. Greys are often excellent partners for good Skyblues because they frequently have better head qualities and more size than run-of-the-mill Skyblues. However, to produce Skyblues, the Grey must be a single factor bird. Skyblue Grey Green pairings can result in excellent Skyblues, but again, the Grey Green must be split Blue. However, the make-up of the Grey Greens used for this purpose must be taken further into account. Certainly fanciers who wish to breed Skyblues should not use double factor Grey Greens which will mean producing nothing but Grey Greens. Information by Brian Byles

Bird flu spreads in Asia, jump in cases - Tuesday Jan 16 05:40 AEDT

Spangle is dominant. Spangle x Normal = 50% Normal & 50% Spangle. Becareful with Spangle Opalines unless you know the parentage or the bird displays the Gizzle "V" it might just be a spangle with bad wing markings. Just because the body colour is in the wings isn't a definate sign of opaline in spangles. No factor Dark factor x single factor Dark factor = 50% single factor Dark Factor and 50% no factor Dark Factor. Skyblue x Cobalt = 50% Skyblue & 50% Cobalt. You can't get Mauve from this paring. Cobalt x Cobalt = 25% Sky blue, 50% cobalt and 25% Mauve. Spangle Cock x Opaline Hen = Normal / Opaline Cocks, Normal Cocks, Spangle Cocks, Spangle / Opaline cocks, Spangle Hens and normal hens

Australian Ring Colours. Breeders rings in Australia have a 6 year cycle. 2005 - Purple (7 years old now) 2006 - Gold 2007 - Green 2008 - Black 2009 - Red 2010 - Blue 2011 - Purple 2012 - Gold 2013 - Green 2014 - Black 2015 - Red 2016 - Blue 2017 - Purple 2018 - Gold The ring issue date is the 1st September the year before the ring date. E.G. The gold 2012 rings will be issued on the 1st September 2011.