Daz

Hi Richard. What do you mean "not feathering propaly". I had a hen they would playfully pluck the down from her chicks. They didn't feather properly until after they left the nest. Can you put up some photos of the chicks or at least explain what you mean. We are all looking forward to helping. :budgiedance:

As the birds go Kaz thats great news......but I don't like cats either :budgiedance:.... It's good to get the neighbours on your side. I should have done it from the beginning. Council Update: I have spoken to the Council, Community Responce Department, as I haven't heard anything all week. They have told me that they have forward their recommendations to the Council and the Certifiers that the Aviary and Birds comply to their standards and wish that I be granted a permit on both. This doesn't mean I am approved though. It now goes to my local Councilor for his objections. Now here is the catch. If the Councilor doesn't answer it will be approved.

This is why we don't pair them if they are chocolate brown. It is too late. I have never had a hen in this condition go to nest. :ausb:

I think she knows... The comment about moving a single bed in there might have been due to that. Update time. Not quiet over this sickness, so I was force to give up work today (friday) and return home for some rest and recouperation. :ausb: I have put on a screen door to the main entrance. There is 6 kgs of holding force from two magnets. I am currently looking for an automatic door closer. Bubbles these are the joiners. You hammer them into the tubing, very simple. as you can see, the frame work is done but I still have to finish the wire. Hopefully this week end. Don't look at the mess on the bench top. It is mostly for the construction. I have put up some shelving. Added the vacuum cleaner (ebay) This is one of two light fittings that are on all day. The black light to the right of it is the night light. It has a 15w bulb but still needed me to spray the cover as the birds were still awake all night. now it is a lot better for them. They still can see but not partying all night. The inside of the second door makes a good spot for the Training cages. These three are my show cages. I will be puting them inside after I make the proper cages. The Proper cages will be a lot like these but in different configerations. I will have one set a bit larger for the young ones to get used too before going to the smaller sized show cage. Hopefully Sunday night I can show the aviary as complete at least on the inside. There are still more to do out side.

Well a bit of an update. Yesterday I went to Hungry Jacks and picked up a very bad burger. It has taken over 24 hours to get it out of my system. So sorry VippiN on not having any photos. Bubbles the construction method is like a large meccano set. You buy the 25mm square Alluminium tubing by the length, either 1.8m or 1.2m There is also joiners that hammer into the ends. The joiners come in all forms. Corners, three way, four way, five way etc. I am buying the system from Bunnings Warehouse. I am hoping that this weekend will be the finish. It's been a long time doing it. I estimate that it's cost close to $5,000au so far but havn't been counting.

I always thought that but have been told that the time to pair them is when the cere is changing to tan. When it goes crusty brown it's too late. I'd be interested in Hath's opinion on this.

I'll take some this afternoon for you VippiN I am half way through the flights. So I will have to put in a bigg effort this weekend to finish it.

As many know I am at the end or completion of the upgrade of my aviary. There is much to take into consideration. I wish I have found this article before starting, but didn't. Many of the points I knew and have included in my original design but some of the advice I find invaluable. I have a great respect for Jeff Attwood and have included a DVD of a talk he did here in Australia last year at our Nationals. I hope you enjoy this. The manner in which an aviary or Birdroom is designed can add or detract from one's enjoyment of the hobby. Until established in the hobby and sure that this is the interest you intend to follow, great expense and unnecessary outlay can be avoided by making use of the existing available space. A garden shed, unused room in the house or even a sectioned off rear of a garage can all be utilised and arranged to successfully house and breed exhibition Budgerigars during the formative years. My first outside flight was a disused wardrobe with the front removed and replaced with wire netting and laid on its side. The sleeping quarters was a "tea chest" fitted with legs and attached to the side of the wardrobe. During the early- and middle-1950s this served me well together with a few breeding cages in my parent's garden shed. No Thought Given to Design Gradually this was extended to a number of units which like "topsy" grew and grew with no real thought to design and became a bit of a shanty town. All this however cost very little, and during that period I began to form the idea of what type of establishment would really suit the requirements of the birds and become an enjoyable feature of the garden. This I was able to achieve when moving to my present home in 1977. I prepared a master plan based on my own and other fanciers' experiences and gradually developed the aviary I have today. Avoid Problems First and foremost there are certain preliminary steps to be taken which can avoid unnecessary confrontations with neighbours and local authorities. Don't forget that the erection of a large birdroom in the back garden can often irritate a neighbour both the aspect of noise and appearance. The legal position can often favour the complainant when neighbours fall out. Firstly with regard to planning and the District Council. Recent legislation has made allowance for certain structures under what is referred to as "exempt regulation". No planning approval is required in certain circumstances. These apply to structures such as greenhouses, carports, garden sheds, some sun lounges and aviaries, as long as certain criteria are complied with. The structure in question must not exceed 50% of the garden space available. It must be at least one metre from the boundary with your neighbours and must not exceed 4 metres in height with an apex roof. The maximum space permitted without approval is 40 square metres as long as this does not exceed the 50% of garden space mentioned above. You must be cautious however, as previous additional development to your property affect the amount of space permitted for your aviary. Also the Local Authority's interpretation of the term "aviary" differs from area to area and in all cases applies only to the hobbyist. A very large aviary using up the maximum space may be regarded by some authorities as a business, and planning approval would then be required. Don't forget that although legally an aviary may be permitted the question of noise pollution is a separate issue and can still bring problems. Seek Advice First With regard to planning approval I would recommend going along to your local council taking with you a simple plan of your garden. This should show house and the other houses in the immediate vicinity. It should include boundary fences and walls and other structures such as greenhouses or sheds already in your garden. Once verbal agreement has been reached send them a courteous letter together with a copy of the agreed plan and request that they confirm in writing that they have no objection. The reply, if favourable, should be kept somewhere safe for future reference should the need arise. Next call on adjoining neighbours and seek their approval of what you are planning. Offset any doubt they may have regarding noise or spoilt views and you will be off to a good start. When deciding on the construction, many factors must be determined, and in the majority of cases cost will be the main factor. I personally favour a brick or block structure as I consider the atmosphere within, both for temperature and humidity, is more stable than with a timber construction. Nevertheless, in my case I eventually decided on timber. You can plan your own shed to vour personal requirements and most timber merchants will build what you require at little extra cost. Take advice on the thickness of the timber as a long exposed shed wall, if insufficiently supported, can be subjected to excessive wind pressure and collapse. Ventilation Prevents Disease My own birdrooms are ten feet high at the roof apex. to allow plenty of air circulation, with all natural light and louvre-type ventilators at a high level above the cages. This I feel gives plenty of ventilation which reduces incidences of dead in shell and also allows the use of all wall areas, with the exception of the door space. All walls and ceilings are insulated with Cosywrap before cladding with "laconite", a spray-painted surface board. This allows me to keep the temperature at a reasonable level with just a one kilowatt fan heater, thermostatically controlled, throughout the colder winter months, when the birds are breeding. The wall surfaces can be easily washed down. Flight areas, both inside and out, are in my opinion, essential to maintain fit active Budgerigars throughout their lives, from barhead to adult. Flights prevent the build up of excess body fat, particularly in hens. In providing flying areas certain rules should be adhered to. Make sure that the inside flight (sleeping area) has at least two perch spaces available for each bird to permit movement. Ensure that both inside and outside flights have sufficient space to accommodate the number of birds you can expect to produce. Overcrowding can easily lead to outbreaks of disease. Have an opening between the inside and outside flights, sufficiently big to allow large numbers of birds to fly together, tiny bobholes lead to broken necks! Vary the perch size and level to ensure adequate exercise for feet and wings. Cages vary in size and design but I consider that stock cages of good size are essential for housing barheads on weaning, for show preparation and for sale birds. Wire Cages Stimulate Birds With regard to breeding purposes, some seventeen years ago, after discussion with Dob Travinecek of the USA, I started to use the all-wire cage. Based on the theory I stated earlier, this was to suit the bird rather than to look as attractive as a matching block of conventional cages. The Budgerigar is a gregarious, flock bird, preferring the company of many of its own kind. It is stimulated by the sight and sound of other Budgerigars. The wire cages simulate a controlled colony type breeding environment. I have found it to be beneficial to my breeding success particularly with difficult birds. A similar effect can be achieved by using wire or glass separating slides in conventional cages. Heating of the breeding space during the winter months is, I consider, highly desirable. A minimum temperature of 50 Fahrenheit should be aimed at although a temperature of 60 Fahrenheit is really enjoyed by the Budgerigar. Heating, together with adequate and suitable lighting is most advantageous in achieving consistent early breeding results. Probably one of the most essential pieces of equipment is the night light. This permits a low level of lighting throughout the birdroom during the hours of darkness. There is no doubt that this can reduce the incidence of addled eggs and infant mortality in the event of night fright by allowing hens to find their way back to the nestbox following a disturbance. Hens Will Nest Anywhere Nesting boxes are also found in many different sizes and designs. No matter what the human eye perceives as suitable, hen Budgerigars will seek out any dark corner or enclosed space to lay their eggs. For purely reasons of convenience, I adopted the plastic nest box some years ago, and use these in all my wire cages. They are long-lasting, easy to clean, do not harbour mites, and in the event of a joint breaking are very easy to repair with a hard plastic adhesive. I still use a wooden concave and a handful of sawdust with these nest boxes. American Innovation Pays Dividends One recent addition to my outside flights, which I discovered in the United States, is a water misting system. This sprays a very fine rain over the birds which is most welcome during hot spells and can be used to improve feather condition during the weeks leading to the open shows. It is also most effective in bringing birds into wonderful breeding condition when used after the Autumn moult. I feel it simulates the natural rain which occurs in the Australian Spring thereby triggering the birds' own reaction. This subject of management has many different facets all of which I cannot touch but there are the basic points. Information by Jeff Attwood

I just wish that Crusty Brown Ceres meant Breeding condition. I have a number of hens in this condition but it means they are past the breeding condition. When the cere is turning tan from a bluish colour is when the hens are comming into condition.

I am sorry to hear for your loss. Question (1)- Do budgies grieve? Some say no but from my experience they do look for companionship and they do search from their mate. (2)-I haven't buried Sadie yet. I live in Michigan and the grounds are frozen. She will be cremated. Is it important to let Stanley view her dead body for the final time? I know this probably sounds so silly. But they were together so long. No I wouldn't let him see her again. It is over. It might cause more anxiety for him (3) Should I get Stanley a new friend? If so how young, male or female? Yes I would. A young female but remember to quarantine her for 35 days at least. I would also have your vet check Stan over as you don't know what killed Sadie and you don't want to loss Stan or give the other bird I’ll health. Stan may be a carrier for the disease that killed Sadie. He may have grown immunity to the disease and should be checked. (4) If I don't get him a new friend, companion will he die of grief or loneliness? The first sign of depression is that he will stop eating and will look lethargic. This is not good.

We had our Annual General Meetig last night and I was nominated and voted in to the Commitee for the Pine Rivers Budgerigar Society. So now i'll get to talk twice as much about Show Budgerigars than before.

Hello and Welcome. I hope you enjoy the forum.

"topic moved to a suitible section"

Well I still have to get the permits and I still have a long way to go. But it is looking better. ummm.. not a bad idea..

There are different rules and regulations for each council in Australia. In the Pine Shire Council where I live, any structure in excess of 10 square meters must have a permit. Also if you live on a block of land under 2 hectairs (spl?) you can keep up to 20 birds with out a permit. My aviary is 13 square meters and I currently have 69 birds. so I need a permit for the birds and the aviary. Now an up date. The council came and inspected my aviary for the keeping of the birds. It looks like I have past. They want to have another talk to the neighbours but they aggree that the aviary is a proper place to keep my birds. If the building application is past, I can keep my birds and can increase to 90 birds. But I have to make sure that the aviary is kept up to scratch and the noise doesn't increase too much. I should know an out come by next Friday.

Thanks rainbow. Well this afternoon the Council inspected my aviary and it looks like I have past the first test. The only alteration is to put a bag of seed in a plastic container, something I was going to do anyway. This is to stop the mice. Next is the building application. $$ The council office said he would help me where he could. I trust him. He has told me not to stop my progress and also discussed views of installing a water tank to assist cleaning. I have an orange light. I am still a long way from approved but I am a bit more relaxed now. Stress = 6.

In 1968, my young family, my wife Joyce and I moved to Virginia Water in Surrey, not far from London Airport. The house was named Tanglewood and when first seen it lived up to its name. Years of work were to follow, but the aviary, made of cedarwood, had to take priority. One of the first visitors was Joachim Schwartsberg, the famous German fancier. Originally 40 feet [12.2m] by 10 feet [3.05m], it was subsequently increased to double that length some years later. Housing 66 breeding cages constructed by Reinhard Molkentin, these cages are the last word in cage presentation. The Jo Mannes aviary is also fitted out with the same cages, as well as the U.K. Quarantine at London Airport for the U. K. budgerigar exports to Australia. In 1980, a normal grey BA23 cock won Best Breeder at the Budgerigar Society Club Show. In 1984, a skyblue was awarded Best Adult and Best Opposite Sex-in-Show, at the same event. 1987 saw what other fanciers are pleased to recall as one of the five best birds ever bred up to that time. This was a grey green cock BA23 - 43 -83 given Best Breeder in Show, but remarkably, in the opinion of the fancy, not Best in Show. The following year at the Budgerigar World Open Championship at Blackpool, the same bird finally proved it's quality where it took the supreme award. Good grey greens have always had a special place at Tanglewood, but as is common in Budgerigars, you also need some luck. In 1986, a modest looking pair in cage number 16, bred a total of 12 chicks, each of outstanding quality. The following year they bred another seven. For many years this has been referred to as the "16" Line and birds sold from this line have in turn bred show winners. Jim Laurie from Scotland is a classic case, his outstanding wins at the B.S. World Championship in the 90's being credited, by him, to this same line. In 1997 I lost two great friends, Jim Moffat and Mick Wheeler, both of whom had very fine studs, with the Moffat Stud of light greens being perhaps the best in the World. On Jim's death the stud was gifted to me by Margie Moffat for which I will always be grateful. The Moffat birds with their superb width of face, depth of mask and frontal lift were crossed with the 16 line grey greens, but gradually the Stud became all light greens and skyblues. In recent times other colour outcrosses became necessary and trips to South Africa to buy from Reinhard Molkentin and to Europe to purchase from Daniel Lutolf, two of the worlds most experienced fanciers, have paid great dividends. Today the aviary can be found with all the Normal Series plus superb spangles all of the highest qulaity and in great demand worldwide. "The Challenge" is always there and that is why my enthusiasm for breeding exhibition quality budgerigars has never waned. The Author Gerald Binks has been breeding since the age of 12 and for more than 6o years. His aviary "Tanglewood" is well know to most breeders. he has 68 breeding cabinets in the breeding room and two large flights. All indoors. His aviary is an "L" sharp messuring 50ft x 35ft.

In Australia the Black Eyed Self has iris rings. Black Eyed Self Not a good picture of the eye but this bird won best Black Eyed Self at our show last year.

Well if you want the lacewing can be made up of Ino and Cinnamon gene or Ino, cinnamon and blue genes. Remember that the Albino is a blue ino. So the blue series lacewing is an Albino with the cinnamon makings on the wing and the green series lacewing is a lutino with cinnamon makings on the wing.

She ..... The feeders you can get at Pet City in Wishhart. Or at your local Club. I submitted the application for permit. The council officer seems happy with it but needs a site inspection to make sure the facilities are up to regulations. This will be next week so I have to get the birds in the flights by then.

Yes Sailorwolf the lights are in fact hose proof. Here you go Paul These are the ones I use in the breeding cages. I just change the jar if I need more to feed more birds. Here is the layout for the aviry. (Click to enlarge)

Hi Paul yes I will get that shot for you. I have been a bit busy today/tonight. Apparently one of my Good Neighbours contacted the council and complained about the birds. I had the visit from the council today regarding it. I had to apply for a permit to have more than 20 birds and had to get all the neighbours sign the application form. I found out which nieghbour contacted the council. She... why is it always "She" :sad: She said that after complaining she found that the birds quietened down and she had no problems in signing my application for the permit. I have found that one of my neighbours worked for an aged care home and asked if I would sell them some of my chicks. Of cause I agreed and set the price at nothing. Only thing was they had to get the cages. So 12 of my birds are going to help the old. So sorry paul if I am a bit behind in the photo. I will get it tomorrow morning.

Well I have started on the flights. One on the left will be just for juveniles. Middle for Cocks and right for Hens. Still have to put the wire on and the doors.....and the perches.

How did you go Joey, did you get some birds?

I also start them on Probics and Sparks with a vitamin suppliment this livens them up. Even old Ash filled some eggs.