Daz

okay ellulah just got it. The grey is a single factor grey. Now a grey bird is a grey factor acting on a blue series bird. Grey is dominant andis the only colour that will mix with green. this produces a grey green bird. He is also split ino to give the albino and the lutino. An Albino is a blue lutino so the ino gene acts with his blue gene to give the Albino. With out the blue gene the out come is the lutino. Now the green is dominant over blue so a grey to green will give grey, green or grey green so there must be two blue genes to produce the blue chick. There fore the hen is split to blue to give the second blue gene. okay last is the yellowface. Yellow face is a dominant and there fore can not be split. It must be shown. A green carrying a yellowface gene will always mask it as she has a yellowface to start with. Answer. The Grey Cock is 1. single factor and 2. split to ino. The Green Hen is 1. Split to blue and 2. is masking Yellow face. Next question: What are the chicks?

No not right.... Close but. Nathan a hen can't be split to a sex gene.

Cheeta are you say that the hen is split to yellowface?

This looks to have stumped some people. You should be able to tell me two facts about the Grey and about the Green. These four facts lead to the reason the chicks are as they are. Hint: Why is there no grey chicks?

Take White as Albino and Yellow as Lutino.... sorry Nathan I'll let you know soon. ellulah when you say hidding do you mean split or masking?

Congratulations Kaz.. Strange we don't have a dilute class in the show colour class. Looks like Gerald and I are a bit off the mark

You pair a Grey Cock to a Light Green Hen. Out come.... 1 x white bird, 1 x yellow bird, 1 x blue bird & 1 x yellowface blue bird... How can this be?? See how you go giving me all the possible genetic make up of the parents. Hints latter if required.

Well Greywings and clearwings are the 2 / 3 types of dilutes anyway

Thanks for all of that Daz. I appreciate it. Do they have a dilute category in a Rares show ? No not in Queensland. Here is the colour Standard for SQBBA SQBBA Colour Standard. It should be standard for WA. Just Check. http://www.brasea.com/

Grey Wing. The spots should be grey. Body colur approaching full intensity. Marking should be mild grey Eyes black with irus ring Cheek patches Violet Tail grey Tail Quill V/blue Also Kaz we don't have dilutes in Australian Shows. Only Grey wings and clearwings.

Memonty did you get to go to the other breeder? One of the commitee members mentioned they sold some birds to some one that bought birds from me. Was that you

As a show bird.. great potential. Has already width of head and good back of skull... Another 7 to 14 days will be interesting.

Dave have a look at my Set up in the garage. Thats what I did when I was building the aviary. Before that I had them under the pergola. Had to chase the cats away at night but thats what I did for many months.

The winnower takes most of the dust out of the seed. The white piece on the top of the winnower is where the vacuum "plug' in. So most of the "dust" goes straight in the vacuum. I should clarify that I use wood shavings not saw dust. Sorry there is a difference. I am just used to saying sawdust.

Wild Budgerigars inhabit the arid parts of Australia. The majority of the populations inhabit the coastal areas so it's unlikely that we see any wild budgerigars. But you have to have a permit to catch any wild parrots in Australia.

Update: Council as approved the position of the aviary inregard to the sewer. Now I think it's up to the certifiers.

A bright blue cere in the cocks is one side of breeding condition. Acvtivity levels also increases. Dark chocolate brown ceres in hens mean that they are coming out of condition. They can still lay fertile eggs. The fertility of the eggs is really up to the cock. He has to successfully mate with the hen. After the third egg you can shine a strong torch through the eggs (candle them) to see if they are fertile.

Here is my link to the breeding set up. click on the picture

Some breeders will trim the hen's toe nails between clutches as they do grow longer when she is sitting.

He was the brother to the One that won the Championship in Nambour a few weeks back. He'll have great pertential but I have better that I am keeping. Unfortunately I am limited to numbers so can only keep the best of the best. Luckily I have quite a few. I will be culling the 69 back to 18 cocks and 30 hens. So will have to be strict with my cull. Some very good birds will need to go. 12 is going to the pet shop on Tuesday and another lot will be picked for another pet shop in two weeks time.

I thought I recognised him Is the second picture the hen?

I have obtained a second hand winnerer. Home Made. Every Saturday morning I clean out the flights and feed trays. I scrape the floors and vacuum them out. I also do the breeding cages. The spilt seed and husks in the feed trays go through the winnerer to feed the out going culled birds. The husks are thrown away. Feed Tray after cleaning this morning. Usually after a week it's pretty full This morning the wife had an idea .. one of many... but this one seemed to hold merit. Could the husks be mixed with the sawdust for the nest boxes. There is very little droppings in the husks. 1st I though that it may mean an easy way to transmit desease but from where. I have enclosed flights. I am interesed in others thoughts before going ahead next week.

Memonty very nice... I accually like the first two. He looks to be a taller bird with good stance. She is stocky and strong. He has a long mask, she has width of mask. He has a start of a good frontal. You could also go that hen to the Light green or the cinamon. Very good start.

Hommer build a small wooden container thats about 2 1/2 inch high like a wooden tray. drill one hole in each of 3 sides 2inch round. turn upside down and place on the floor of the breeding cage. If the chicks are in trouble they will go there. The hens or cocks won't go in, but will feed the chicks from outside. I have a few of these. I call them my BBBBB. (Brused and battered baby budgie boxes).

Hommer get some Aloe Vera. 115gm in 1 leter of water for 24hours. Tip 500mls in a container and add 500mls. Top up the container with the Aloe in it. Use this as the water for two weeks. If you have left the skin on, it acts as a wormer and laxitive. Keep it in the fridge. You can try it to. Works like a tonic to us as well. Cheaper that the stuff you buy in the health food stores. The enzimes will help the birds as well. One batch will last 14 days. You can't overdose the birds or the chicks. The droppings should turn black, as they should allways be, and the birds will be more active and loader. I've been doing this for the last three weeks. 5 chicks in one nest, the oldest is 9 days today. no problems.