Daz

Betty looks to have black mask spots? Cinnamon ?? (I'm not sure) Jack I would still say Sky but can't see the tail feather. The dark shade could be opalescences. Daisy You are right with the hen and the cinnamon. I could see that one properly on the computer at work. Max I would still say Sky. Note: Skyblue tail feathers are Mid Blue with Turquoise Suffusion and Cobalts are Dark Blue. But this is not always the case.

You have a yellow face Skyblue Cock.

I would give them a break for a couple of weeks. Let them fly and become fit before retrying them.

From the list.. Yellowface type 1 Dark Green Cock Opaline Violet Hen Skyblue Cock Opaline Grey Cock Skyblue Cock Yellowface Grey Hen Same Dominant Pied opaline Light green Cock (i think cock hard to see) Opaline Skyblue Cock Spangle Opaline Grey Green Hen Light green Hen A lot of Opalines there. :budgiedance:

I selectively Breed. It has it's Plus's and Minus's. Plus's No Competition from other pairs. No Fighting over breeding cages. Less deaths from attacks from other hens / pairs. Chicks stay longer in the protection of the parents. Easier to give special feed and supplements. Minus's It is more expensive. You need breeding cages for each pair. It takes up more room. Chicks can't escape as easier if the parents attack them.

Guess what... That's what happenes . I ring the chicks at 7 - 8 days old. Most of the time I have trouble geting the ring on... Think I complain :hap:. I then have a nest box card that I write the number on.

Way to go girl... It's great to get 1sts and Trophies :hap: You have great support their Kaz as well as great birds. It doesn't surprise me to hear this

So many questions going through my mind. How long have they been in the breeding cages? How old are they? What is the set up you have? What are you feeding them? What type of nest box and where is it located? How big is the breeding cages?

Hi Tanya in my signature is a link to "How to post Photos" it will help you.

125 F is 50 deg C that is some thing to be worried about. I have had 42 in the aviary this year but the birds were all down in the concrete keeping cool. But I wouldn't want it getting any higher.

Hi Norm no pump them full of protein. The hen will feed this through to the chicks. After 21 days old I start feeding the greens. My soft food is 1 part soaked wheat, 2 parts soaked oats, 1 part grated carrots, 2 parts mixed Budgie starter Crumbles and powdered egg yolk. This mix is 1 part powdered egg yolk, 2 part crumbles, 4 parts budgie starter. I feed the soft food in the morning and remove whats not eaten in the afternoon. This is feed a few days before hatching right through until they leave the nursery cage to the flights. So they are on it for the first 3 months of life. Greens are introduced when the chicks are 21 days. Water supplements are also important. Vitamins, Calcium, Probotics, Minerals. Show birds are not raised on seed & water.

Nerwen this one isn't bad either. I'd keep an eye on it's development. Plenty of Budgie starter and no vegetables until it gets to 21 days old. :bluebudgie:

Nerwen tell me you got a ring on that Spangle... please.... The back skull and the wing markings looks good. Might be one to bring to a table show. I'll lend you show cage.

You are correct. Quality in my hobby is paramount to quantity. I was the Member that posted that some of my birds are into there 3rd round. One pair concerned is a Spangle Grey green cock to a Skyblue hen. 1st Round 2 chicks. 2nd Round 1 chick. So I have decided to let them go a third round. If they have more than 3 fertile eggs, some of the eggs or chicks will be fostered out. The other pairs have had clear eggs in their 1st round and 4 chicks in the 2nd. Most time If I let the hen have a 3rd round after two full rounds, the eggs are fostered as they are laid. I take the cock and the chicks away from the hen so she can have some free time before going back to the flight. When I pair up, i also pair up feeders. Feeders are pairs that don't have good chicks but are very good parents. They raise the others chicks. My hens breed once a year. The cocks might be paired to a number of hens during the year but will have free time between pairings. The breeding season as I put in the other post is after the nationals in June. July to February. But that depends on the hens. If they all go to nest and have fertile eggs the season will be short. If they have two clear rounds they are tried latter in the season. They get one to two months break between trying. If you read my blob or visiting my website you can see the management I have for my birds. They are feed on the best and live a life of luxury.... ummm it might be good to come back as a budgie in my aviary

I do have to agree with Macka. It is very unfortunate that these deaths occur, especially to those starting out. When you decide to start to breed any animal, you must remember that you are playing with life and Life is not fair. Any type of breeding whether it is colony or selective has it's problems. But selective is better as you can control it to some point. You will still have deaths. You can't get around it. But you can reduce it by having good management. You can read the management I go through with my birds either in my Blog or on my web site.. It is not perfect and I still lose chicks but not as many as I would have with Colony breeding. Since 2005 I have lost 5 Adult Birds. One to an unknown disease after an avian vet look at it. 1 Hen prolapsed, two to Mega, one to heat stress. The other losses in the aviary have been Mops or 1 day old chicks. I have lost 2 chicks that were 11 days and 18 days old. Healthy in the morning and dead that afternoon. This year I have banded 70 chicks Last year I have banded 34 chicks. So for those maths people that is a 95% chance of survival from the time they come out of the nest. I have started a new program that will at the end of the season give me a result of Eggs Laid, % fertile, % hatched, % weaned. We have a large amount of infrmation and experenced breeders on this forum. Please use the information and ask questions. At the end it is up to you if you use the information or not. We can only try to help.

Here is a topic I did regarding the upgrade of my aviary. >Upgrading an Aviary< Hope it helps.

This will drive you nuts!! Have fun! The object of the game is to move the red block around Without getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls. If you can go longer than 18 seconds you are phenomenal. It's been Said that the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are Expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try but be careful...it is addictive!! Air Force Test<-------- My best is 30.4 sec.

Breeding season for us in Qld started just after the nationals. I have pairs on their second round and some that have had only one or two chicks on their 3rd round. Breeding season will be over in 14 - 16 weeks.

Cock bird would have been split albion. As macka pointed out, the cock bird wouldn't have sat on the eggs. But it was good that your son was there and acted in the right way. Well done. I posted in another topic about the need to check the boxes twice a day and this is one reason. The hen prolapsing might have been able to be saved if detected early. A good diet with access to calcium and Vit D would have helped stop this occuring.

Well lets do the list and see what the outcome could be. cobalt violet normal + violet spangle = ? cobalt violet normal + grey spangle = ? violet spangle + grey normal = ? Let first make some statements.. Normal to spangle is 50% normal & 50% spangle. That is taken to be correct. Also 50% will be cocks and 50% will be hens. That is taken to be correct. So we can leave that alone. 1. cobalt violet normal (I take it you mean visual violet LvD or LDv) + violet spangle (I take it you mean visual violet LvD or LDv) = ? a. LvD to LvD DF Violet Skyblue 25% Visual Violet 50% Mauve 25% b. LvD to LDv Violet Skyblue 25% Cobalt 25% DF Visual Violet 25% Violet Mauve 25% c. LDv to LDv Skyblue 25% Visual Violet 50% DF Violet Mauve 25% As you can see there are many possible outcomes. 2. cobalt violet normal(LvD or LDv) + grey spangle(LL) = ? a. LvD to LL Violet Sky 25% Violet Grey 25% Cobalt 25% Dark Grey 25% b. LDv to LL Sky Blue 25% Grey 25% Visual Violet 25% Violet Dark Grey 25% 3. violet spangle + grey normal - Same as 2. Remember that half will be normal and half will be spangle.

As with Kaz, I have heard of a lethal gene but many breeders have their own opinions on what it is. Thanks for the link Kaz, very interesting.

With talk of Violets, this is a good topic to read and try to understand.

I have studied the violet factor but I am sure there is not a grey factor. The mutation is in fact the greygreen which being a dominant can come in Single Factor and Double Factor. The greygreen gene combined with the blue gene produces a dominant visual grey. (There is also a recessive grey but is hardly seen these days). Which can also be single factor or double factor. Greys and Greygreens as a dominant can come in three shades. LL, LD, DD and there fore can have LvL, LvD or DvD. (as well as LLv, LDv or DDv). So you can have a Violet grey or a violet greygreen. Sorry Lisachromis this makes you list incomplete. You would need to factor in the Violet factor on the other Dark factor.. I know it sound confusing but Nerwen has put up the link to my explanation of the violet factor. Might be a good read twice.

I started with a few birds in a cage, joined a club and then got into showing the birds. As a professional Breeder registered with the Council I am limited to the number of birds I can have - 90 not counting chicks.

Ah another Brisbane breeder Welcome to the forum. I hope you enjoy it.