Daz

CLEARBODY: MASK AND SPOTS: The mask is to be clear,wide and deep, (not cleft) extending beyond two large cheek patches ornamentedby six evenly spaced, large, round black throat spots, the outer two beingpartially covered by the base of the cheek patches. GENERAL BODY COLOUR: Yellow (Buttercup) orWhite, masking a standard colour that may show as a faint minimal suffusion inthe body and with more intensity over the rump and flank. MARKINGS: On cheeks, back of head, neck andwings - black clearly defined and symmetrical on the appropriate ground colour. EYES: Black with a white iris ring. PRIMARY FLIGHTS: Neutral to Pale Grey(Grizzling is acceptable). FEET & LEGS:Blue/Grey mottled or Pink. Colour Cheek Patch Yellow (Buttercup)& White - Violet/Grey. Tail Quill Yellow (Buttercup)& White - Black Tail Feather Yellow (Buttercup)& White - Dark Blue - Black CLEARBODY GROUP: This includes Opaline (without anycombinations) combined with Clearbody. The standard for these birds is as for Clearbody modified by therequirements for the Opaline (without any combinations) variety. NOTE 1: BodyColour suffusion (minimal) should increase in depth of shade progressively fromthe upper breast to the rump area. NOTE 2: The Clearbody Opaline (without anycombinations) may be more likely to be Buttercup Yellow(green series) or White (blue series) but they should not be given preferenceover other standard Clearbodies (non Opaline) because of this. Grey factor birds will further modify thebody colour. In the combination ofthese two varieties, suffusion on the back and rump is as per the General BodyColour description of the Clearbody.

Humididty is fine. You don't want it dry when it comes time to hatch. If it is dry you can dunk the eggs in to warm water just before they are due to hatch. It makes it easier for the chick to hatch.

yes as we all know females are more trouble then males.... It's best to have 2 to 1.

Well i've finished the cull. ..... and one of these birds is up for sale. I'll put up the photos in the appropriate place in the forum.

They are all related. All have the same Hen. It was a Dominat Pied that I bought in Auction a few years ago. They are all blue ringers. I just had them in the training cage and thought a few quick shots would be good.

Very Very Nice Splat... i'm looking forward to future photos of this one to see how it develops. Your not having a good go this year. What has changed? Is there anything your doing different?

Well i'm about to start the cull so have been organising the birds ready to start sorting them. Here are a few of my birds. No these will probibly not be for sale.

Welcome Back Renee

Click here for indepth information on Quarrentine the link just saves me a lot of typing

i place a drop of medicated Olive oil or baby oil on my finger tips and while checking the birds i wipe it on the feet and cere. (not in the nosstrils) and haven't had scaley face for years. I also dabb the back of the head with Ivermec when pairing up. I also dabb the back of the chicks head when ringing.

Just remember that Information is power. Understanding through knowledge give you the power to make informed decissions.

I started with many books. I found this one very good. You can get it at pet stores.

The first thing is to recheck the aviary for any sharp wire that could have been missed. It hapened to me. Next, if you are going to coloney breed in the aviary, it is more hazzardous than breeding in Breeding cages. You will need 1/2 more number of nest boxes than hens. eg if you have 4 hens you will need 6 nest boxes to help stop the fighting.

we always aim to please here.... in so many different ways. Sharron, you and splat will get on great.

The photos are a bit over exposed but they look both male to me. Both are young birds.

Pair 1 Albino hen + TCB grey cock/ino Hoping to get TCB hens will be 25% and put with possible split cock from pair 3.... Outcome should be: 25% Clearbody/Ino cocks 25% Ino cocks 25% Clearbody hens 25% Ino hens As the Albino Hen is carrying Blue and Ino (lutino) and the Cock is carrying Blue to show Grey you should get Blues and Greys from the pairing. You should also get Lutinos and Albinos from this pairing as well. You will also get green series too. The ino gene will lighten the body and the flights from the Cock bird. ..................................................................................................... Pair 2 opaline Cin pied hen green/blue + spangle pied sky cock cock has big head / feathers but lacks body, so using my best solid hen You should get a variety from this pairing. If the cock is not split to sexlinked (which i doubt) all the hens will be normal, spangles, dominant pieds (sf), dominant pied (df) and Dominant pied Spangles. They will also be Sky blue or split blue. Cocks will be normal, spangles, dominant pieds (sf), dominant pied (df) and Dominant Pied Spangles all split Opaline and cinnamon and if not blue will be split blue. ........................................................................................................................................ Pair 3 TCB Olive hen + Normal blue cock trying to get split TCB cocks with good size to use back to pair 1 hens??? (this hen is daughter to TCB cock pair 1) have 2 eggs so far Out come 50% Normal/Clearbody cocks 50% Normal hens But the colouring is interesting. Because the hen is carrying two dark factors you can expect. Dark greens split blue. If she is split blue you should also get cobalts.

A very good on line book is The Master Breeder. i started with this book and find it very good.

For the past few years i have them specially made for me by a breeder in Gatton.

The Hen should be staying in the nest for most of the time. She will come out for feeding and other business. How old to the hen?

Hi Liz and welcome to theforum.. you will find answers to most of your questions.... and if you don't ask and we will try to find the answer that suits you.

they are but well worth it if you want to get into breeding the birds and looking after them properly.

Very good video.. Pet bird - use a 14 guage and a show bird use a 12 gauge for normals and dominants. Show recessives depend on size. I keep both for chicks to adults. Please note that under no stage was the bird discomfort. He did it slow and easy. That is the main trick. If you are crop tubing a bird... DON'T PANICK AND RUSH.... It is best to go slow and easy. I have never lost a bird crop tubing. I have crop tubed many birds from unfed chicks to birds that are a bit off to near dead. If you are unsure of how to crop tube.. ask a vet to show you one on one. Don't rely on this video to give you all the answers.

I highly recommend this book to any breeder or keeper of birds that already has The Challenge by Gerald Binks. it is a very complementry addition to your library. Link to the book.

You have some very interesting pairs. What do hope to get out of each pairing?

Bird Keeper Mag sells it.