Daz

I don't know about the spelling but here goes. Coccidiosis Symptoms: intestinal inflammation, bloody feces, weight loss Description: Various species of coccidiae occur in birds. These protozoan infect the small intestine of the bird. Coccidiosis seldom produces sudden death but death may occur following heavy infestation for several months. Treatment: Amprolium at 3 ml/l water for 2 weeks or sulfaquinoxaline 0.05% at 6 g/l water for 7 days. The latter dosage must be increased by 50% for small birds, and a second treatment may be required. I could find sidicosis and coxidia in my ailment section for Aviary birds. I'll elsewheres. Chest sidicosis I found to do with Humans Coccidiae are common to Birds, dogs and cats. From this information, it would appear that geting merlin to the vet was the right choise. It says it shouldn't be seriuos. So lets hope all goes well.

You can have him on a good diet with out forcing him on pellets or taking away his seed. It's great to hear that he is faring better. All the best for merlin

They look like a great pair.

Pixie, there is you proof. Thanks Bea. I wonder if a wide eyed first timer sees it that way to. I know I was hungry for info. I couldn't get enough. But thats me.

"Preventative Medication Regimes" Perhaps as controversial as the use of low dose antibiotics in foodstuffs as a growth stimulant, is the practice of routine flock treatment with medications as a recommended method of pathogen control. The argument against routine medication prevention programmes centres on the belief that if your birds are not displaying any symptoms and are fit there is no need for treatment. To subject healthy birds to such a course of action is irresponsible and may do more harm than good. On the other side of the argument are those who believe routinely scheduled preventive medication regimes have a valid role in pathogen control. This action, they believe, is prophylactic and akin to using vaccinations against measles, flu, etc. in human subjects. In support of this argument, they point to the veterinary professions growing use of new viral immunisations that have been developed for parrots that protect against Pacheco Disease, Beak and Feather Disease, etc. It is undeniable that Budgerigars carry a number of disease organisms, which remain hidden, or inactive until specific circumstances, such as stress, are present. Then they are shed through faeces, feather dust, etc. to other birds in the aviary in a very short period of time. New arrivals, whether, imported breeding stock, outcrosses from a local club member, or even a shared breeding with a friend, quickly introduce and spread new bacteria, worms, protozoa?s, etc. throughout the aviary. I now this is about Aviary Birds. But I like preventitive actions. I don't want to wait till its too late. As far as introduction of worms via seed. I am not sure. I do know that seed dust can carried bacteria and other viruses.

Andy I think you will find what you want to change when you get it up and ready for the birds. I know I am changing things in my little (compared to yours) aviary after a few weeks.

Here is the really hard bit.... This arrangement is used so that: 1. They are out of sight of each other. 2. It keeps one from getting confused as to which breeding cage the cock will be rotated to next. Next take the cock bird and place him in one of the cages and watch for signs of acceptance by the hen, if they are present then leave him with her for one half of a day. The rest of the day do the same in the next cage and on the second day move him to the third hen. If any of the hens reject him, try several others until all three hens find him suitable. For the rest of the second day, place him back in cage one where he stays until the next morning. Then rotate him to cage two for one day and then cage three for one day. From this point on he should be rotated from one hen to the next on a daily basis until the last egg is laid. If you wish you may leave him with the hen that finishes egg laying last. In this case, the other two hens are left to raise their clutches on their own. These hens cannot be used for a second round as it is too taxing on them, to both lay eggs and feed chicks by themselves. Alternatively, remove the eggs as they are laid from all three hens, to be fostered to pairs specifically for this purpose or to other nests where there are clear eggs. In this way, you can get the equivalent of two rounds of eggs from each hen without putting any of them in a position of having to raise chicks on their own. This also allows time to rest the hens for a month and then mate them to different cocks. This alternative method is preferable but circumstances do not always favour it. Any one want to try it.

Well done Nasal_tuffs. I know Mum and Dad do the hard stuff but have to set it up right in the first place.

I have heard that a male can breed with multiple females but in a single cage situation. One Cock With Multiple Hens Budgerigar hens, as is common among a number of species of birds, have the ability to store semen for ab8.jpg (35327 bytes) limited period of time. Some evidence suggests that this period is up to 20 days long. Biologically, this is quite adaptive as it insures fertilisation of a clutch of eggs if for some reason, such as death by predator, the cock is unavailable. Some knowledgeable breeders, taking advantage of this, have used a single outstanding cock bird to fertilise a number of hens during the same time frame. This is not a particularly difficult procedure and there are several variations used by different breeders, all of which have been effective. One of these methods is, once having selected three complimentary hens for the cock that is to be used, set them up in breeding cages one above the other. That would take some doing.

Thanks pixie. You put forward some points I didn't concider. I find the information good. But others might and will take it in their own way and it could be an over load of information. (boring in other words) A point by point lay out might be more informative. As you can see from my Signature, like you, I feel strong about it to.

quazzi wild budgerigars live in desert regions of Australia. Most of the population of Australia is on the coast. Maybe Luckysgal has seen wild budgies but I haven't.

The Model Avicultural Programme M.A.P. I found a very interesting artical on the Set up and Management of Aviaries. I am interested in others opinion on the points put forward. If you all agree, it might be a good article for a FAQ section.

The eggs of the worms can still be introduced. I use high quallity seed and Pellet mix for all my birds but still you can't be sure. So I think worming them at correct and regular intervals is a bit of insurance against the worms.

I deworm after two weeks at home and then every three months. I just did Angel and the aviary birds on Monday. Sorry to hear about the firther losses. Hope this is the turning point.

You can gentlely tap on the nest box to get the mother out while you inspect. She will return, don't be worried about that.

Bev I think you are right on all points...The photo is too big and yes I think that poor baby has got splayed legs. But lets get some more opinions. Edit: What does he look like today. Has the positioning changed?

Sorry bev the photo is too small for me to see.

Well done...What a lovely photo. 13 years old. What a great age for a budgie. I hope our live that long. Well done Emma

Budgies are like dogs...some like the water some hate it. The birds in the aviary hate it. George uses his water dish as a bath some times.

i am modding a car at the moment monsoon are you into modding too? if you are i would love to see some pics of your ride! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What is modding...I don't know the term?

Like Toyota and Nissan?

What about HSV or XR6 or GTHO or......

I hear that perch is a nice eating fish

..........and I read these forums.....Why??? :glare: To find out what budgie poop tastes like. and what to do if the refrigerator is empty.....eat a perch :glare: