Daz

Dingo, Nerwen and Lin have valid points. I wouldn't handle the eggs unless you have washed them in something like Chorihexidine and then only once or twice. I candle my eggs 5 days after the last egg is laid and then a day or two before the first one is expected to hatch. Then maybe if the last one to overdue. Your profile says you only have two birds. I take it that this pair are them? How many rounds has the hen had? I only let mine have two and only if I think she is up to it.

Yes World Budgerigar Organisation. - Atricle by Dr. D. Phalen (USA)

What would you get if you crossed a Dominant Pied hen to a recessive pied cock.??? A Recessive that was bossy and a Dominent that did what they were told....

Guys have a close look at the wing patten I think (and I can't see too well) a sky blue spangle wth washed out wing markings. This does not mean dilute. A bad spangle can have light wing markings and not be a dilute. Your thoughts. Here is one of mine. No on second thought greywing skyblue.

Do you take the eggs out after they are laid, or do you let the parents feed them? I leave the eggs in the box unless there is an issue with the the hen sitting. Then I foster out. Which would be easier for a beginner? It would be easier for a beginner to let the parents raise the chicks. You realy don't have the experience to incubate and hand rear a chick. (It's a bit like parashooting, I can't understand why someone would jump out of a good plane.) Be prepare to step in if needed but at first let the parents do the job. Also I never really got this, how do you hang the nest box on the outside of the cage so you can check on the eggs or take them out if you have to? This depaends on the type of breeding cage you have. This box is out side. These boxes were inside like this but I have moved them outside. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a26/darrylw/Picture001.jpg The bottom one is outside and I moved the others outside as well. Just screw hooks to the top front and a stopper at the bottom to keep the box level. And last question this pair is not tame, will that affect anything? No not at all.

Yes in Australia you can get Budgies Microchipped but more for breedng purposes. A pet budgie found usually is not checked.

Can I come over too.....I can say its a business trip. We have an office in Osbourne Park..... :hap:

I aggree, You can have a male green split to blut split to ino. But you can't have a blue male split to green.

Sorry Alan, The hen may not show a brown cere when coming into season. I look for a hen that is loud and active. Chatting up the males and chewing her perches. If she has a gone through a moult or about finish she is probibly worth a try. The male should be in top condition and also very load.

Pair One Single Factor Yellowface normal cock with Single Factor Yellowface opaline hen. Cocks will be Yellow Face split to Opaline Hens will be Yellow Faced Pair Two Grey SF spangle cock split cinnamon with Green clearwing hen split blue. Cocks will be: 13% (SF) Grey, Split Cinnamon, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Grey, Split Cinnamon, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% (SF) Grey (SF) Spangle, Split Cinnamon, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Grey (SF) Spangle, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Grey (SF) Spangle, Split Cinnamon, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% (SF) Grey (SF) Spangle, Split Clearwing, Split Blue Hens will be: 13% Cinnamon, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing 13% Cinnamon, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% Cinnamon, (SF) Spangle, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing 13% (SF) Spangle, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing 13% Cinnamon, (SF) Spangle, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing, Split Blue 13% (SF) Spangle, (SF) Grey, Split Clearwing, Split Blue Pair Three Green normal cock split blue with Green normal hen split blue. Cocks will be: 25% Blue 25% Green 50% Green split to blue. Hens will be 25% Blue 25% Green 50% Green split to blue. Pair Four Recessive pied cobalt cock with mauve normal split recessive pied hen Cocks will be 25% Mauve Recessive Pieds 25% Cobalt Recessive Pieds 25% Mauve split to Recessive Pieds 25% Cobalt spilt to Recessive Pieds Hens will be: 25% Mauve Recessive Pieds 25% Cobalt Recessive Pieds 25% Mauve split to Recessive Pieds 25% Cobalt spilt to Recessive Pieds Pair Five Blue cock split ino with yellowface type two blue hen Cocks will be: 50% Yellowface type II Split to ino 50% Yellowface type II Hens will be 50% cremino 50% Yellowface Type II Pair Six Dominant pied SF spangle green cock split blue with Opaline SF spangle blue hen Cocks will be 13% Blue Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied , Split Opaline 13% Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Opaline, Split Blue 13% Blue, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Opaline 13% (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Opaline, Split Blue 13% Blue Mutant 1, (SF) Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Opaline 13% (SF) Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Opaline, Split Blue Hens will be: 13% Blue Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied 13% Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Blue 13% Blue (SF) Dominant Pied 13% (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Blue 13% Blue (SF) Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied 13% (SF) Spangle, (SF) Dominant Pied, Split Blue :hap:

:hap: why was your mum jumping i to look after the chicks? Isn't that the hens job... wow nerwen your mum is good to help you like this...

Sorry the cages are setup in the pergola at the moment. I have just put in a new shed for "my tools" I will have to set converting the old shed to a new avery http://home.gil.com.au/~dwellsadsl/Images/Aviary1.jpg The boxes are from Brendale Produce for those in brisbane Thirtyfive Black Of course your budgies will breed in breeding boxes so long as they are happy. I currently keep the birds in the Suspended flight on the side of the new to be bird house. Nerwen I hope to have the cage soon (in the next few months) in the new Bird house. Until then I'll be geting up on the chairs. Current I have 4 pairs breeding. Cage 1 Huey & Greeny with 7 eggs. Cage 2 Chime and Snowy in the nursery Cage 3 Jet and Bluebell (Show Birds) Cage 4 Jazz and Bob. (Karen's Birds) Cage 5 Lisa and Razzle ( Lisa's Karens Bird, Razzle is one that was found and given to me) Cage 6 Spare.

I know that budgerigar in aboriginal means "good eating" .....HOPE THESE ARENT THE DINNER YOU ARE REFERRING TO DAZ !! Boy names......Rommel, Custer, Rupert, Springer, Roscoe, Mortie, Rastus, Ferdie ??? Budgiebird ...no I love my chicken but not budgie..thou quail might be okay... I have many hobbies and cooking is one of them.. It took a long time to get good at it but the wait was worth it.

Shant I am having trouble reading your posts. You are using shortcuts. The Female looks like alight green from the photo. The other one is a baby looks like he hasn't moulted yet. it still has his bars. He looks to be a Normal Cobolt. What you are seeing is probibly play. How old did you say these birds are? http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/oha.../Picture154.jpg

Sorry about your loss but what did happen to the parents and what did you do?... Just to help answer your question of what went wrong.

You can assist to some extent. This is what happens when a chick is trying to hatch...... Pipping Approximately 24 to 72 hours before hatching, the air sac membrane drops and blood vessels in the shell membranes begin to recede. In this end stage of development, when the chick is ready to emerge from the egg, increased levels of carbon dioxide in its blood system cause the neck muscles to expand and contract bringing the egg tooth on the tip of its beak into contact with the air sac membrane. As the egg tooth punctures and tears the membrane, oxygen stored in the large end of the egg is released. Gradually, the neonate begins to switch from obtaining oxygen through the chorio allantoic membrane to circulating air through its lungs. As the newly released source of oxygen from the air sac is depleted, carbon dioxide levels in the chick’s blood rise. Somewhere between twelve and twenty four hours after piercing the air sac membrane, the neck muscles again begin to work forcing the egg tooth into the shell itself. Once chipped, air enters rapidly oxygenating and strengthening the chick. After resting, the chick in a combination of repetitive jerking motions of the head, and rotation of its body, cuts and pips a circular path around the central circumference of the egg until the shell is weak enough that it can be pushed apart. If the chick were to die in this process, as a result of being too weak to complete the task, excessive fluid in the egg, failure to puncture the air sac or because of the drying of internal membranes, which prevent it from exiting the shell, it is referred to as "dead in shell". Up to 8% of embryo death is attributable to dead in shell conditions. Assisting Chicks In Hatching It is possible to assist a chick out of the egg but the timing of this is important. It is not until the 18th day that the final traces of yolk are absorbed into the chicks abdomen and the umbilicus is sealed shut. Assisting the chick before that time will cause its death. Often, you can candle the egg to see if the yolk sac has fully retracted and that membranes below the shell no longer contain viable blood vessels. The actual time from which the first expansion of the neck muscle broke through the shell until the chick emerges from the egg can vary from 48 to 72 hours. Initially, you may hear a quiet tapping or even weak squeaks, and find a fine crack, group of cracks or crack plus a tiny hole in the shell. This is the beginning stages of the hatching process and no action is required. If you can hear loud squeaks, see creamy off white patches on the shell with a crack line around its circumference, and detect moist membranes you are observing the latter stages of a normal hatching and it is not necessary to assist the chick. If you can hear loud squeaks and find a widened crack line around the circumference of the egg or a large hole in the egg, and can observe a dried or drying membrane, then you can assist the chick, as it is having difficulties. To do this, take a haemostat or tweezers and gently work your way around the crack line with the air sac end in an upright position. You will be able to see the position and movement of the chick as you do this. Once having separated the egg, most chicks will be pushing and forcing the shell apart. If this is the case, gently return it to the nest box and the chick and hen will do the rest. If on the other hand, the dried membrane has adhered itself to the chick or shell, moisten a cotton swab in sterile saline solution and place it on the membrane. This will loosen it enough so that you can remove the chick safely from the shell. If there is slight bleeding at the navel, swab the umbilicus area with a 1% solution of Betadine and place the chick in the nest box. If the egg sac has not completely retracted, you should leave the chick in the bottom part of the shell and place it in an upright position. This sometimes works as it allows extra time for the yolk to retract. Hope this helps from the Master Breeder

Thanks Lovey... Well the breeding cages arrived today. Who wants a place in the skyscraper I can't reach to the top breeding box with out a chair Greeny and Huey are in Box 1 with 7 eggs. 1st due on next tuesday. Bluey is in Box 2 with children Chime and Snowy. Bluey is coming out tomorrow to go back into the flight. I can then keep a good eye on Chime and Snowy to see that they are feeding themselves. A close up of one of the compartments. I still have to setup the hooks for the millet and line the bottom with newspaper. The stainless steel holder on the left holds a small stainless cup for feed. It is being washed at the time of the photo. This week end I'll empty the shed into the new shed and will start the conversion to the breeding room.

Nerwen they are beautiful... Keep the photos coming....

If you have other pairs breeding try this. Drill a hole in the nest box concave large enough for an egg to pass through. Place some sawdust or thoer soft material under the nest box. When she lays the egg it will safely fall through the hole in to the sawdust and you can foster it to another breeding pair or an incubator. If you don't have another pair or an incubator. Take the egg away from her as soon as she lays it. Replace it with a porcilin egg. She will quickly get frustrated in trying to break and eat the fake egg. You may need to do this a few times until she gets the idea

Zebra has she had more than one round? if so I would take away the box but leave her in the breeding cage to recover for a week or two before putting her back in the flight.

Candle the eggs kirby you should see veins by the fifth day. By the tenth day there should show a form. If you are still showing clear eggs they are not fertile. First clutches can show a high rate of unfertile eggs. Don't be too worried. If you get all clear eggs then it is a worry.

I'm not sure. Cous Cous is made of grains. It would be good to check it out just in case.... I never thought of using it. :hap:

Cous Cous I do that with Lemon rind and chillie flakes. Hot and lemony... I love it but no good for the budgies. Please do not feed chilli to your budgie.

you spoil them rotten Bea I want to come back as a budgie.... My be in my own flock

He's a beautiful Bird hommer.