renee

yep, that's the one. The cock bird is ancient and the 2 hens are disabled but I separated them out last year BEFORE doing the extensive treatment on my flock to get rid of the pasty bums syndrome. They never exhibited any ill effects but clearly they were carriers. :rofl:

I put her in with the 'oldies' and she caught the pasty bum syndrome that I've eradicated from my flock (but I didn't bother with them and evidently they are carriers) and she carked it. :rofl: I felt pretty stupid when I realised what I'd done.

:question: Poor Freckles, it was not meant to be.

Don't worry too much Pearce. Last year I had a chick that took FOREVER to develop. I think he spent close to 6 weeks in the nest box before fledging. In the end he looked okay, pretty average that is, you'd never know he was such a slowpoke. Aha, I have received queries about this posting so I will elaborate: I rung him a few days short of 3 weeks and then fostered him out to a wonderful cock bird I have that happily raises chicks from 2 weeks+ and then spent the next 3 weeks there. He did not stay in his original nest.

Yes, but some are split blue and others I am breeding to blue series to get more blue splits. I also have some of Robs birds to breed them too, so have other colour types too. Just needs planning. Yep, I noted the splits but you're still going to get more greygreens, it just depends how many depending on the pairings. In any case I've found that it's not the 1st generation that you have to worry about it's the NEXT ones! Now I'm officially in my 3rd breeding season and I have cinnamons, cinnamons and more cinnamons. BUT they are very nice chickies ..... yeah, yeah, yeah - It's not the variety we need to focus on, it's the bird ....

Don't worry too much Pearce. Last year I had a chick that took FOREVER to develop. I think he spent close to 6 weeks in the nest box before fledging. In the end he looked okay, pretty average that is, you'd never know he was such a slowpoke.

Here is the new guys related to Omelette.... Split blue grey green normal cock his mother cinnamon opaline grey green dom pied hen cinnamon opaline cock cinnamon opaline hen cinnamon opaline cock Very nice additions - you do realise that you're going to have GREYGREEN coming out of your ears? No matter, it means you will be able to be very selective with who you keep.

He looks like he has a bald back, is his mum plucking his down?

It's nice to see Freckles' siblings! I'm glad you've decided to continue the thread.

Is he a pet bird Pearce? I usually ring my bubs on day 6-7 but little Freckles doesn't look like he'll be rung for at least another 5 days. :question:

As Hans often says, 'The ox is slow but the Earth is patient'.

Compared to the other chicks in the Nursery these chicks are 'special' The Violet Clearwing will be a small bird because he comes from Clearwing parents. However, I have certain expectations when it comes the others as I put a nice sized Cobalt Normal cock bird to a Clearwing hen. Of course I was unable to catch this potential on film due to my **** photographing skills But one of the Cobalt clearwings has a nice blow and we'll just have to see about the other 2. Clearwing breeding is NOT for anyone wanting overnight success, let me make that quite clear. Maybe in 4-5 years I will have the good fortune to have bred better and better ....

Pearce, makka is teasing you- a dig is like a jibe is like stiring the pot is like winding you up! Don't take it so seriously! You're doing a wonderful job. :offtopic:

okay, as promised some photos of the Clearwing chicks. A cobalt normal split clearwing, 2 cobalts and a violet .... not very good pics BUT the best I can do. :offtopic:

That's right, Greywings do no dilute the body colour and their wing markings should be darker.

I had a hen last year that was an internal layer, ie. she never produced an egg, despite mating and showing interest in the nest box plus all the signs that she wanted to lay. The year before I had a hen that ate her eggs .... she went straight to the Retirement Village!

A very fine looking horse!

You know how stubborn he is Renee Its time for me to lay down the law. His plan for today was to erect the new aviary we got from Rob and put his parrots in it on the back patio. I told him its too late for them, they are all most likely infected. The important thing now is to get my new flights up for the budgies so they can be moved further away from the infected aviary. If he puts the parrots in the new aviary of Robs it means we also have to strip clean that later on. Basically if he wants to keep any "healthy looking " parrot, it will have to be tested twice within a few weeks as to status of PBFD and again twice before breeding if he chooses to go that way. That is an additional cost of around $600 plus per bird and still the results most likely will be that they carry PBFD. Like with gangrene where the leg is amputated to save the body, the parrots must be culled no matter how "healthy " they are looking for now. Is PDF terminal? I mean are the parrots guaranteed a cruel and painful death? Is there any chance that they can build up immunity? I only raise this because maybe you could negotiate with Ken to keep Velcro as a house pet? I can't see him agreeing to culling the lot .... I think you have to offer him a silver lining to this big black cloud.

Yes, for sure. I am not in the least trivialising the potential for budgies to get this, nor am I taking any chances at all. The infected parrot arrived here in January. THere hasnt been for awhile nor will there be any cross contamination between parrot area and budgie area. The parrot aviary is sealed with plastic sheeting so nothing can blow through the yard to the budgies. All feathers at or near the wire are being vacuumed up and the vacuum is not emptied nor stored near the budgies. Clothing or shoes worn near or with parrots is not going to the budgies. Ken has to look after his parrots and cannot come into my budgie areas at all and vice versa. Bleach bath for shoes going into the birdroom. Waterless hand sanitiser is used in the birdroom. My current dilemna is I know the vet wants ALL Parrots culled. I can do what has to be done albeit with great sadness. My husband hesitates. His hesitation to act can cost me infection through the budgies. The longer the parrots are on the property the more chance of infection. Aughhh! I don't envy you a all. You're stuck between a rock and a hard place here. Good luck negotiating with Ken

I recommend ARCADIA lighting which is specifically designed for birds as opposed to other animals.

Fingers crossed for you Kaz. :what:

I can't believe this! It's just such bad new and the timing couldn't be worse. :what: So sorry you and Ken have to deal with this. Just a few questions- Did you quarantine these Eastern parrots before introducing them into Ken's aviary? What are the chances of the Beak and Feather disease jumping the fence into the budgie aviary?

Oh Cem! I wouldn't be giving your budgies soft wood OR crushed coral because I would be very concerned about sharp edges ripping the crop and gizzard to pieces. :hi: Egg shells can be added to the soft food but you need to make sure they are ground to a powder.

Yes, Renee is rather particular that way- she'll raise one maybe two chicks but draws the line at too much hard work!

From the sound of things you have bought 1 hand reared or tame budgie and 3 that are not. Perhaps if the others are still young enough you can persevere and tame them.