renee

thanks kaz my view also but was told that in letting them continue to sit only ones with eggs the cocks would feed hen medication so would in turn be better left as takeing from nest may stress them more thats why i asked birds would be out of boxes yesterday if i was not sugested this so would you bring birds in or leave where are and would you seperate hens and cocks the breeding pairs or place in same cages or just leave and block nests thanks gb I think the health of your birds must come first, otherwise you run the risk of loosing many more. I am not sure how you are going to treat for Canker and Psitticosis at the same time ... Canker is very contagious and vomiting is the big give-away when it comes to diagnosis. If you have identified a sick bird from your breeding pairs I would consider treating that bird and partner together in a holding cage and - depending on how you have your breeding cages and the possibility of disease spreading - I would isolate any further breeding pairs in another holding cage well away from first pair a a preventative measure. Chlamydia Psitticosis is the bane of all us breeders and it is always wise to treat any new birds with at least a 2 week course as part of a quarantine program whether they look like they may need it or not. I would be treating your aviary birds with doxy asap. I give all my birds an extended course of Doxy over the summer months as a routine preventative medication. If you mix the doxy with Megamix you don't need to remove grit or anything and can give a continuous treatment without breaks. Sorry to hear you are having these issues GB.

Recessive Pieds are a recessive variety gene which means you need to have a pair both carrying that gene in order to produce visual recessive pied offspring. Tha means you would have to pair this cock to a hen that is either a Recessive Pied herself or split for Recessive Pied. Good idea, you are going about it the right way. I suggest you join a Budgie Club and then you will be able to borrow books/DVDs etc from the library

That's good advice if you are setting it all up but I wouldn't go putting new nest boxes in and adding this hen.

It is if you want to breed Recessive Pieds

ONE pair of breeders per breeding space! ie One Hen and one Cock and nest box and babies in ONE separate breeding area. DO NOT put the hen that attacked in with this pairing. She needs her own space.

I am afraid this is not uncommon when you have budgies all breeding together in one area, we refer to it as "colony breeding". Try doing a search (top right hand corner tab) for colony breeding and you can read all about it. The fact that your hen attacked others is not a sign per se that she is a "killer" and needs to be got rid of, it is a sign that she is feeling territorial and is expressing those instincts. If you wish to breed you need to keep breeding pairs separate with their own nest boxes. Non breeding budgies co-exist quite happily all together (ie with NO nest boxes is sight).

Try the doxy 45 day prgram - my breeding issues/fertility were cleared up as soon as I did that.

okay, from the photo I would say Male Opaline Greygreen Cinnamonwing.

Looks like it to me! Spot on the back of the head indicates its split for Recessive Pied.

Budgies are just the best, aren't they? They are so full of personality! Even my show budgies in the aviary have there way of letting me know what they want - a couple of them get on the wire and chirp to me - which means come and have a look, you need to give us fresh water, or put on the sprinkler ... The ring leaders are inevitably birds that I have bred and formed that special bond with from 'chick-hood'. When I go into the aviary (without a net in hand ) they come and sit on my head and shoulders and pull my hair and nibble my ears. Gotta Luv 'Em!

How scary is THAT! I am sooo glad Ken got out of the way in time ~ it doesn't bear thinking about.

Like Liv I have encountered this problem in the nest twice and I believe it was as a result of the way the hen sat on the chick. I don't see a problem in letting her carry on as she is after a rest. Granted I don't know whether she'll ever breed for you but maybe she could be a foster mum? or have a nice retirement as a pet?

How exciting Finnie! Looking forwards to pics and progress! Remember- don't move the eggs or handle them too much as you can upset the brooding process.

It is gratifying to breed your first "monster" :grbud: Mine was "Magic" and he is a stunning Sky Dommie Pied, even better is that he is a natural stud bird.

Ooooooh, that's no good Have you done a post motum to check for sure?

Well I used untreated pine to make my aviaries and I painted it with non-toxic paint to ensure its longevity - However, my budgies still like to give it a good chew ... to no ill effects though cause it is safe. :grbud: Most paint is toxic to budgies ( and that can be compared to quantities ingested too ).......unless you bought child safe paint. The green paint you used is normal fence paint, water based, I believe.My budgies chew the paint in my aviary too. Wish I hadnt painted some surfaces........I may yet cover them....the ones they get at anyway Yes, that's the stuff - child proof paint.

Well I used untreated pine to make my aviaries and I painted it with non-toxic paint to ensure its longevity - However, my budgies still like to give it a good chew ... to no ill effects though cause it is safe.

I like your vision. As Kaz has mentioned there are cheaper ways of doing things so long as you give yourself a little time to source the materials. Personally I went with the "snake and mouse proof" wire from Bunnings and I have yet to find any evidence of mice inside both the aviaries we built - that gives me peace of mind - but it is more expensive then going direct to the wholesaler and I do think it is a bit more flimsy.

Please tell me more about this "little" one - does it come out of a split pairing? Thanks Renee No he comes from a clearwing to clearwing pairing. His Dad is a clearwing I got from Lin Pittick (RIP) at his clearance auction as a UBC. I thought he looked to have a fair bit of potential and I was right. Father himself has matured beautifully but these guys are way bigger than him again. I've bred 2 full rounds from this pairing and the chicks from the previous round are nice as well just not a huge as these guys. Well I think you've hit the jackpot with this pairing

You know those are very beautiful albino chicks - well done Linda

Once again amazing bubs - well done Nubbly! Please tell me more about this "little" one - does it come out of a split pairing?

Yes I use Muscle XL powder that Kaz recommended and is based on highly digestible whey isolates. I put a tablespoon per soft food mix.

Well I have been adding it to the soft food mix - mainly for the benefit of the older budgies that are reluctant to try new things and also because I wanted to bring down the amount of hulled oats I was giving them. So previously the mix was 5 cups of hulled oats to aprox. 1 kilo of apples and carrots and now it is 1 cup of hulled oats and 3 cups of Milnes Rabbit pellets. The older budgies don't eat all of them but the young uns eat it all down to dust. No signs of ill heath at all, I give it a 10 out of 10

Thank You Daryl

Sorry if I appear particularly thick - BUT are you saying that a Cobalt to DF1 Green will produce Olives?!