splat

I saw them at Bunnings last week and yes about the price Dave said and extra dollars for the brackets etc. :rofl:

Oh well next time Jimmy, Macka 's right that club is up and coming they have some great birds there. They have Ian Hunter and Peter Thurn Chamipon breeders and their birds are well sort after and at auctions they fetch high dollars. It would be great if they helped out their beginners you will be off to a flying start. If you can make it to the Shield on Sunday the 17th May at Northcote seconary college that would be great. I am trying to get there trying to sweet talk Greg :rofl:

I have and will breed cousin to cousin, half brother half sister, grand daughter to grand father and this year I am putting daughter to father only because the father is getting on and will mostly likely be the last year I get anything out of him. I am breeding this way because I am establishing my own stud. The old cock bird is my foundation cock. But each time I go close to him, with the next generation I out cross then I go back to his blood again. It's like a xmas tree branches, out back, out back. In a few years all my birds should look the same. With breeding so close yes you do run the risk of bad traits coming out but also you can get some ripper things too. I would never do full brother to full sister.

It's A Boy

Might want to go careful with the Parsley there Daz. It contains fairly high levels of Oxalic Acid at a rate of 1.70g per 100g of Parsley. Although most veggies have small amounts, Parsley has the most of all of them. BUT it is high in iron but it's like everything everything sparingly, Breeders around here use it because of the iron content.

He's a little cutie

Splat I personally don't see any of the above as opalines. If you paired either of those first 2 hens to a normal opaline cock and any of the young cocks were not opaline then the hens cannot be opaline. Similarly, if you pair the spangle cobalt cock to a normal opaline hen and get any normal (non opaline) birds then he is not an opaline. Be interesting to find out for sure. Daryl Daryl I would normally agree with you but last year at 2 shows 2 judges and several members told me that they were better marked opalines meaning that don't have as much or hardly any colour in their wings which is meant to be undesirable these days on the show bench. The cobalts father is Opaline, so that makes him split opaline, I find the whole thing confusing

Well I am not sure if that is completely right because most time when you buy seed it is normally from the year before harvest. So maybe that is why you shouln't buy than a few months supply but I know breeders around here travel long distance to get their seed and they buy bulk enough to get them through the whole breeding season and they have a couple hunrd birds and at least 40 breeding cages going at any one time. When I buy mine I buy 2 or 3 x 40kilo bags at one time and it gets me through half my breeding season I would buy more But can't afford to. I drive 200k return when I get mine.

Good luck with your breeding hope all goes to plan, they look to be nice birds

Here is an update on my babies sorry pics aren't really clear getting blind in my old age Look this one is already preening They are between 12 and 17 days old all look green

This picture is opaline spangle and this one This one cinn opaline yellow face Believe it or not this is also a opaline spangle several people including 2 judges told at a show last year that is why I get confused as I thought she would of been spangle and the next picture is opaline too and again I would of thought spangle Opaline spangle Opaline Cinn Spangle Opaline Spangle And I do believe and really hope this is a normal Spangle or I will be completely confussed

I have found that a bit daunting also as I have been told that most my spangles which I thought were spangles have been told they are opaline, it is to do with the mantle on the back of the bird. Can't remember the name of the lines but I think they say and I could be wrong because my memory is **** but if the lines are brken or not there they are opaline. Some one else can come and fix up my explanation because I know this sucks :sad:

That's cool Kaz :sad: have to get my birds one

Mine look like that too

:sad:

WOW Congratulations Well done, I Hope you have a great time and WOW you are almost a Vet, we will have to call you Dr Chryso soon :sad:

Good advice Darryl and Daz

Also lt Green or Dk green is better to lutino mating helps with the much needed buttercup colour that is required, Dark green is better though :cake: Just some info for your future breeding

He is really adorable :cake:

Wow you have some nice birds there Linda your pairings are pretty good. The only thing I would suggest is the albino hen would be better with a grey cock because the blue seems to leave a sheen but that is up to you are you breeding for show or just to improve your own birds? :cake:

Thanks Daz that was a real good read

I use Poly-aid plus from Vetafarm when my birds are sick it gives them the energy to fight. Product Description FIRST AID IN A BOTTLE NUTRIENT SUPPLEMENT FOR SICK AND INJURED BIRDS, DOGS, CATS AND OTHER SMALL ANIMALS Poly-aid plus is a sustained release carbohydrate and protein supplement with multivitamins and electrolytes and nine strain Probotic® for sick or stressed birds and small animals. It is recommended in all birds and animals with a calorie and/or protein deficit. Directions: All avian species: Give 10g per 100g bodyweight per day in two divided doses, by crop needle or spoon. When mixing Poly-aid plus, add very small quantities of water to the desired amount of powder and mix well – continue to add drops of water until the mix is a custard consistency. Add to the feeding syringe and administer with a crop needle or direct to the mouth. Other species: Mix as above and give to effect. Poly Aid Plus saves lives! It is the original “First Aid in a Bottle” for birds. All sick birds should be given a dose of Poly-aid plus as they go into the hospital cage. Poly-aid plus provides a high energy, high protein supplement that is readily absorbed and utilised. This allows the birds to fight the disease or trauma that put them in the hospital cage initially. Poly-aid plus does not cure disease - it simply gives the birds some energy to fight for themselves. Active Constituents: Retinol Acetate (Vitamin A), Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3), dl-Alpha-Tocopherol Acetate, Menadione di-Methyl Pyrimidinol Bisulfite, Nicotinic Acid, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Thiamine Hydrochloride, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Cyanocobalamin, Folic Acid, Choline Bitartrate, Biotin, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Chloride, Magnesium Sulphate, Calcium Gluconate, Albumen, Starch - Maize (hydrolysed), and Probotic® --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That is just awful god how hard is it to worm your birds that breeder need hi or her but kicked

I am sorry for your loss it really sounds bad

Oh my Gosh MB that is awful, I hope they pull through for you. Let me know how they go. That is really so sad. I will be thinking of you and all your sick birds.