**KAZ**

It is simply the difference between baby markings and past first moult markings Renee

Some of the greywings in the juvenile/baby aviary spangle greywing HONCHO Mother of one above There's more greywings but I couldnt catch them all in photos

Yes, I would say so ...this hen gives you a lot of possibilities...just dont pair her to a normal green who isnt split for blue

YF Mauve recessive pied spangle and she is carrying the spangle kind of cheek patches

Either way she is dark factor ? More photos please of the Mum ?

Mum cannot be a spangle X as you say, because spangle is dominant and cannot be a split, but she can be a spangle recessive pied thus producing spangles. One parent has to be a visual spangle to get spangles. She is recessive ppied so she must be spangle recessive pied. She must also be opaline recessive pied spangle. Dad is split for opaline also, and they are split for blue. Mum seems to be olive possibly, and you do seem to have some dark factor babies.

My trans gender DF spangle cock/hen BEFORE and NOW That is an amazing change Kaz. Did you ever use him for breeding? Was he successful? NO. The hens I gave him were useless silly hens.

Great news

mmmm Can't see it in my mind ... Photos? OLD photo....................... Door and window to the right in photo will be covered.

I think I have decided to cover in more of the external wall of the birdroom and just use one door to the flights not two. It limits what walls I can use inside the birdroom by having double doors to the flights. The double doors were originally due to the original plans for the flights going the other way. I dont need double doors now. So I will remove that extra door and sheet over that opening.

In my case, I was just trying an experiment....whilst my budgies will not eat budgie pellets in the past...they took to these bunny pellets with gusto I guess its extras....we dont feed our budgies lucerne or alfalfa or molasses....these pellets contain these ingredients and extras....also probiotics and brewers yeast. Well, they must be tasty, as more than half the container has been eaten for their breakfast. You may ask then...why bunny pellets instead of budgie pellets ? So far its a price thing and my stubborn nature to refuse budgie pellets as a food for my budgies I could be totally wrong here, but so far the experiment has had a positive result.

These are only my thoughts on this topic

My trans gender DF spangle cock/hen BEFORE and NOW

This person will post to you I believe GNANGARA. City Livestock, 727a Gnangara Road, 08 9302 3027Its where I buy mine. My research shows there is 6% fat in bird pellets and 1-2% fat in rabbit pellets. I stand to be corrected if this info is wrong. I guess it depends on brands. try here............ http://thehorseshop.com.au/store/index.php...facturers_id=29 you can buy it online.

Just to add............cere colour is no indication of the right age to breed.

Yesterday when I was buying my whey protein powder at the stockfeed place for my budgies, I bought a small bag of rabbit/guinea pig pellets to try for the budgies. They looked fresh and greenish and from a reputable supply source. As the key ingredients are healthy grass, lucernes and grains etc for the rabbit/guinea pigs I thought maybe the budgie may like to try them out. Way cheaper than budgie pellets which I do not believe in at all. These were bought as an additive to the diet the budgies are on and as a little experiment. Nothing happened at the budgies eating time last night but today they are fully being eaten. The budgies seem keen on them. I served them in a seperate bowl in the middle of a seed tray. These are some of the possible kinds of ingredients in rabbit and guinea pig pellets.............. DEHYDRATED ALFALFA SUNCURED ALFALFA OAT/RICE HULLS SOYBEAN HULLS BEET PULP GRAIN SCREENINGS ENERGY BARLEY OATS OR OAT GROATS OAT MILL FEED CORN, HOMINY OR MILO WHEAT / WHEAT FLOUR GRAIN PRODUCTS RICE BRAN WHEAT BRAN WHEAT MIDDLINGS SOYBEAN MILL RUN /FEED WHEAT MILL RUN / FEED CANE MOLASSES PROTEIN COTTONSEED MEAL SAFFLOWER MEAL SOYBEAN MEAL WHEAT GERM MEAL PLANT PROTEIN PRODUCTS WHEAT PROTEIN DRIED WHEY ADDITIVES OILS (SOY OR CORN) PLANT STEROL (D2) ANIMAL STEROL (D3) VITAMIN/MIN. SUPPLMENTS PROBIOTICS/BREWER YEAST

Females often start out with a blue cere as a youngster or a female not in condition. The blue however will be mixed with white. Not to be mistaken for a fully blue cere. A lot of peo-le get mconfused thinking ANY BLUE at all is male when its just a female not in breeding condition. Once moulting takes place these white blue ceres turn the brown they are destined to be as a female. You said your "male" had a fully bright blue cere, hence I would not have questioned if you had a male or not. If you had said it was whitish blue I would have said it was a female all along

Do you have a clear closeup picture of Bubbles showing her iris rings ?

She is very attractive isnt she

If you think my cinnamon grey cock has a keyhole head then YES :rofl:

i know this.....It was a tongue in cheek post due to Renee poking fun at my cinnamon grey cock she says has a keyhole head...Read back a few Posts.

They dont have much backskull going on yet from what I can see. We shall see how they develop. Omelette's babies have more backskull.

it that how they do it kaz i really wasnt sure so i have never done it in my show birds just pets i was going to ask how you did it but though i would just wait untill i get myself organize before makeing things more complexed could you do a quick how to do in point form what age chicks can be extra or is the above itI dont remove the hen at chicks aged two weeks. I have some hens from a breeder who does this and the hens in my opinion have been conditioned to only rear chicks to the 2 wk old stage, then they either want them out of the nest and pluck them or push them out, or they stop feeding thinking their job is done. I wont do it due to this reason.

Removing the hen and letting the cockbird finish at that age of chicks is done quite commonly in show breeding, but more to give the hen a decent rest of a couple of weeks in a cage on her own before she goes down to breed a second time. I have heard of hens killing the second cock put with them with no time in between for a rest and while the hen is still protective of her nest, chicks and partner. That kind of quick switch around will only confuse the hen in my opinion, and cause her anxiety.