Elly

The normal greens are a beautiful coloration I really like the coloration on the greengreys, they look more green then grey but you can tell by the cheek patches. The skyblue, I love the throat spots this is an excellent display of how they need to look. I wonder if the grey is a double factor the coloring is so deep and dark. He has a great clean head too no flecking, no sign of pin feathers. Beautiful. The black-eyed self WOW, that is all I can say. Clean, healthy, gorgeous looking bird. I don't think I have ever seen a lutino or albino with such a poofy head The winged ones are gorgeous I like the stance on a lot of them. I notice that their wings are grey but not diluted like a lot of the ones I see on the forums. The cinnamon too, what a gorgeous dark brown vs the lighter that we usually see. That one opaline with all the flecking looks like Elvis his head is so poofy. Opaline ASOV I think means they are a different color vs the normal green...but I can stand to be corrected . I could go on and on....but I would probably bore you . I think that one is yellowface violet (is gorgeous) okay...I lied I love the spangle throat spots they look clear inside and the markings look like they were traced on. The recessive pied WOW the first one I don't think I have ever seen a recessive pied with such large and defined throat spots. It makes them look different. The crested grey spangle...how gorgeous is that hairdo , I would love to see one of those in person. The cobalt/violet looks like he needs a haircut okay...I am done thank you kaz for sharing

good point Robin....maybe you can give him a place to retired

I know what you mean about the pinheads it is nuts. Merlin has been pinheaded for quite awhile it seems. They look great.

very nice..

yes for both the splits of opaline and cinnamon cute babies being that the dad is sky blue and the babies are cobalt leads me to think that your hen is a mauve in coloration carrying 2 dark factors (I can't remember if that was confirmed)

Of course we remember you , Oscar has grown into such a handsome boy. I love his poofed head!!! Welcome back .

I know you will do what you feel is best.

I would suggest you take out the nest box and reintroduce when she is around 15-18 months, most breeders will start their hens at that age as 1 y is still considered novice and young. I am sure you will also receive other advice here too :yellowhead:. Also here is an article from our FAQ section My hen won't lay an egg Categories for this entry Budgerigar Breeding There could be a problem with the hen or cock's fertility. Some factors to consider when dealing with an infertile pair of birds are as follows: The ovary may be non-functional because the bird is really a male, too old, too young or ovary is diseased. The nest box is unsuitable The paired birds are incompatible amd have not bonded Not the proper season They may not be in breeding condition poor diet stressful environment. perches unsuitable for mating. males nails are too sharp for the female to allow mating. they are not fertile Instead of stressing out the two birds it is advisable to give them a break and try again down the road. If it happens again you should probably pair them up with a different mate. clipping the feathers around the female's vent can help in some cases. Last update: 2007-04-12 03:54 Author: Daz

:yellowhead: Bea too bad you don't have chickens Kaz :yellowhead:

the toes look shorter because their is no nail (maybe), Pretty lost a nail when I first got him. I have NO idea how but it healed up and it never bothered him not to have it but it looked shorter because of that.

they are stunning

Lucky dog you Paul beautiful

get her trained up to stop being lazy she is gorgeous and if she doesn't stop I bet paired with the right cock when she is old enough you could have some showers for the bench

oh little Merlin's I just love them very nice Paul

I could sit there all day and watch those boys flirt with the girls or boys too . I loved watching Pretty flirt up a storm with Merlin

have you thought about taking her to the avian vet? it sounds like she needs one, lumps usually don't go away and some are treatable.

OMG what an experience, I am so glad it has a happy happy ending

The one is probably begging to be fed and the othe one is giving it food which is normal. He won't go hungry he will just eat more . So I don't think there is any cause for concern at this point. Welcome to BBC, look forward to pictures and we have a great contest going for July Budgie of the Month so if you want you can enter your new additions in the contest too.

I answered this question in the new post you made They are different then scaley face mites, yes it will kill the bird unless treated by an avian vet. Check your other post and good luck.

It is different then the type of mite that causes scaley beak and yes it will kill the bird Here is an excellent article on these types of mites Airsac Mites This is the most important part of the article "Treatment of an infection with air sac mites on one's own account is not possible; the diseased bird will die if it is not taken to a vet." So Joey I would advise as I did in the other post when you asked. 1. Take the bird back 2. if you want to keep the bird take to the avian vet ASAP to get treated

a good test if he is split to blue is to pair him with a true white face blue and see if you get yellow faces :ausb:, that would be cool to see.

no I see what you mean feathers...they are naturally yellow and green and then the yellowface if they carry it MAY make the face more golden or you may see a bleed into the green. I get it :ausb:

okay..thanks Aly ... a thought....if the green bird is carrying 2 yf genes making it a double factor yf which in blue birds is visually white why would not be be visually white in a green bird making a white faced green bird. I understand that the yellow/blue pigment make the green bird but why doesn't it erase the color from the face like the blue birds? A thought to think about... :ausb:

You know what when I see it conflicting like that I usually simply don't feed it unless members on this board that I know have fed it to their birds with no issues. A lot of things that are labeled harmful are more for insectide reasons...like raspberries because their skin is so porous is recommended ONLY organic. Hope that makes sense.

This is part of the training article that I wrote up for BBC When you first bring your budgie home let your new pet settle in before you start the taming process. This is what I personally did when I purchased Pretty, a pet store bought budgie. Before he arrived I made sure his cage was set up with all the essentials. When I put him in the cage I kept him in a quiet room with not too much action for the first couple of days. I also kept his cage covered on all three sides with a sheet so that he felt secure. It is very common for your new budgie to retreat into the back of the cage as this is where he will feel the safest. After 2 days I slowly started to bring the cover off the cage until it was completely uncovered. This took about a week. Some birds might already have a trusting relationship with humans, for others it could take months. Watch your budgie’s behavior as he becomes more comfortable with his surroundings. You can remove the cage cover a little everyday. We suggest that you keep your budgie in the cage and do not take him out of the cage until he is comfortable in his own cage first (this could be a couple weeks) and it is best to wait until he has learnt how to step-up. It is also suggested that you keep your hands out of the cage unless you are working on taming procedures or changing their food and water because your big hand is very scary for them. Remember they see you as a predator they don’t know whether to trust you or not and your hand is very big to them. Click here to read in full Taming Tips