Budgie_Mad

Great to hear, your getting back into breeding.

Welcome to this forum, Some of these tips you probably already know, but just in case I will tell you. I strongly agree that your son will need to have help, as it can be alot of work. A few tips from me are; 1. Never colony breed budgies, this often leads to injury like a loss of limbs etc, and sometimes death of babies and parents. (you can colony breed, but do it at your own risk, and have enough nesting boxes so that they can all have one, plus spares) 2. Keep the aviary and cages as hygienic as possible, not only for the birds but you too. (Also keep nesting boxes clean) 3. Don't over check a nest box when there are chicks, as this can disturb them. 4. If you are not sure on how to do something, get some advice, never attempt to do things that you don't know how to do. 5. When you decide a pair that you want to breed ensure they are over 9 months min, preferably 12 months (they can breed younger but it all becomes too risky) Also the hens cere (nose) will be brown like chocolate, meaning she is in condition, and the male blue. 6. Budgies need nutrients and minerals just like us, and like us they need vegetables and fruit, not just seed. (also have a cuttlebone as they give the hens calcium to produce good eggs). (never feed them avocado) see list below. (lastly silver beet is a good vegetable to feed them as it can help the budgies to get into breeding condition) Vegetables -Radishes -Turnips -Carrots (root and tops) -Cooked __af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html"]sweet potatoes -Radicchio -Endive -Mustard & dandelion greens -Swiss Chard -Kale -Parsley -Cooked red potatoes -Green beans -Bok Choy -Tomato -Sweet red & green, and other types of peppers -Cauliflower -Broccoli (head and leaves) -Beet & turnip greens -Kohlrabi -Sugar snap or snow peas -Squash (peeled & steamed) -Red beets (peeled) -Romaine or green/red leaf lettuce -Collard greens -Corn -Cucumber Fruits -Apples -Berries -Kiwi -Mango -Cantaloupe -Honeydew -Pineapple -Cherries -Cranberries -Banana -Pears -Peaches -Oranges -Pomegranate -Tangerines -Star fruit -Grapefruit -Papaya -Grapes -Apricots Wash all vegetables and fruits thoroughly before feeding. Remove the pits and all seeds from the fruit. Any vegetables and fruits left uneaten should be discarded daily so spoiling is not a problem. Because vegetables and fruits are high in water content, the urine portion of the droppings will increase. Helpful tips for those who are beginning Adding variety and appeal: Birds decide what to eat by sight, texture, and taste. Offer a wide variety of vegetables and fruit to provide a balanced diet. Keep them in as natural a state as possible and be creative when preparing meals. Hang food from the cage top or sides, weave food into the bars of the cage, or stuff food in the spaces of toys. As an example, for larger birds, feed corn on the cob rather than feeding kernels of corn in a dish. This will help entertain the bird as well as provide physical and mental stimulation. Switching your bird from a seed-based diet: It is much easier to start a young bird on a varied diet of healthy foods than it is to convert an older bird to a new diet. A bird on an unhealthy diet may take more effort to be converted to a healthier diet. For more information, see our article: Switching from a Seed-based to aPelleted Diet. When switching a pet bird's diet to one based on pelleted foods, you may notice a change in the bird's droppings, which will appear larger and lighter in color. If you see only scants amount of dark droppings, contact your veterinarian; it may mean your bird is not eating well and may need to be converted more slowly. Can't forget this now can I. Foods to avoid Some foods are also labeled as do-not feed. These include: High-fat junk food (potato chips, doughnuts, etc.) Avocado (guacamole) Chocolate Alcohol or caffeine Fruit pits Persimmons Table salt Onions Apple seeds Mushrooms

Well, like phoebes I too know2 little to near nothing. But I breed a pure lutino with a cobalt hen, and he will almost all the time produce at least 1 lutino hen, and a cobalt body and lutino headed male. I have also recently got a very different mutation from the pair, which gave me well I don't even know. I will post a picture.

Bad news, the 2nd pictures chicks died yesterday. I am not sure what happened, they were fed and looking healthy, and I got home in the afternoon and they were dead. I will get some pics for you too phoebes. (of the parents that is)

How has all that gone for you?

You just have to realise, there bodies, were designed to withstand the great Australian desserts, without water for days and sometimes a week or two. I know they are domestic, but they are a desert/dessert, cant ever know which is which. anyhow, I am sure they will cope with the heat, and use the water when necessary.

I haven't with the long wait pair, but that was supposed to be all for the others. I will do that and get back to you.

I have had mine in 36ish degrees, outside and they have been fine, however I have a bit of breeze and a shade clothe on the front as to stop the sun a bit.

There was another pinkie to the first pictures clutch, I am thinking that the second pictures clutch won't have anymore, but you never know.

I agree, the lenses are never cheap, we wanted to get one for my mum, but we underestimated the cost, and have to save a little more.

Welcome to the forum.

transfer, and it should be perfectly fine, just ensure you check later to see the hen has adopted them into the nest. (you may also want to mark them to know which ones were the other hens)

I want him, he is so adorable!!!

Lady's and Mixies first 2 babies for this season The pair the didn't produce chicks for 3.5 years 2 first babies (the little chick is not dead, it just nuzzled into the nesting material)

I have had chicks before from other pairs, this is just great because we never thought she would produce chicks.

Great news everyone! The first egg has hatched and a new little pinkie has joined the world! She's obviously got that down pat she just has to feed it now.

The reason I believe the chicks didn't get turned, is because someone told me that if they don't get turned the chick got stuck to the egg, and couldn't get out and suffocates, and the last chicks were stuck to the shell. I have checked today by slightly opening the lid and she has 8 eggs, some appear to be the nice white that could mean they are fertile, and 2 are that dull pinkie tinge. I am considering kindling them? any use in trying?

That's good to hear

yeah I do but that means that the other pair would have 13 or 14 eggs. I did consider it, but the chicks are due to start hatching in the next few days if the first couple are fertile. (that's for the egg kicking, not the other pair).

Hello all, I have a female budgie that has mated and laid about 6-8 eggs. Last time she laid 6 eggs and she didn't turn them because they were DIS, and my thoughts were that she didn't turn them making them suffocate in the egg. Now you might say turn them yourself, well if I did this she then kicks out all the eggs and stops nesting, I am about 95% sure some of the eggs are fertile. I really want these eggs to hatch, as I have been waiting for about 3.5 years for this pair to produce babies. Thanks for any thoughts.

Go to this web address and follow the steps. http://forums.budgiebreeders.asn.au/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=rules&f=83

If only that happened to mine, he sat in a tree too high to get him, for about an hour, and eventually flew off (he had just started to breed before he flew away). I still think wouldn't it be cool if he came back one day, even though its been a year and a bit, you never know.

Yes, I have used mine, you can just wash the sand off and rinse the salt water off. But I have used them numerous times and know others that have used them for over 20 years.

If you have another pair of birds breeding, consider giving the other pair the chicks, or eggs.

That bird is amazing, I wish I had ones like him. However similarly to other budgies they get lines across the top of head and eventually gets lower as they age, and so on. However your budgie just has spots instead of lines, which I think is an amazing gene. and about the white patches, his parents may have had albino / lutino, as my lutinos have white cheek patches, as they have albino in them.