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Squeak_Crumble

Light Green Line

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Hi everyone.

 

I have decided, that I will begin a light green line. I don't have any solid normal line in my stock, and have rode on straight ahead to get my specialist varieties out. I have been reading lots of Budgerigar World magazine's, and many breeder's have been talking about the importance of a strong normal line, and also a strong light green line to put into lutino's. Coming to this decision, I have decided that I will now be keeping mainly green factor birds, This will influence my ino and cleardboy line. In my ino line however, I have 2 lutino hens and one lutino cock bird, as opposed to one ino hen. In my clearbody line, I only have two blue based birds, the other dozen or some being light greens, or grey greens.

 

So, I have chosen to start my light green line. I already have 2 strong foundation cock birds. I will take their faults, and hopefully buy some nice foundation stock hens to match up their faults. I am planning to talk to the breeder of the second cock bird, and see if I can get any related birds. This time, I am going to try and keep to getting birds of only good quality and related stock, as opposed to here, there and everywhere when I started. I have looked on the show bench at who has been winning the Best Green's, and it is a very mixed pool of breeders. I will check out the bird's at the next show, and just see which are the features I want. Both of the cocks are blue ringers.

 

Cock Bird 1:

This is a Kakoschke bred bird, and is a very long bird. He has fantastic mask, which is something I need in my main stock anyway. He is a very narrow bird though, and his size is not the best. He is also split clearbody. Any comments?

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RIMG0009.jpg

 

Cock Bird 2:

This bird is one I only just purchased recently from an auction. I paid $50 for him, and he has amazing width of head and directional feather. He is also alot bigger in hand. His mask is a tiny bit shorter, still alright though. His fertility is proven pretty good, filled 6 out of 6 eggs, and got 6 chicks. The first picture is of him and his current hen, He is possibly split opaline as the chicks are looking to have white down. I like how his faults match cock 1's qualities, and vice versa, something I can use later. This is the cock bird who I will be contacting the breeder of for more related birds, fingers crossed. Apparently the line he came from is quite a fertile line, good beginnings.

DSCF1031.jpg

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RIMG0043-2.jpg

 

I will get some better pictures hopefully soon, of the two together. Comments (and opinions!) would be very much appreciated!

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Good photos Squeak_Crumble!!! and Nice Birds:)

 

Now that's exactly why I started my Green Normals Line too ... only I have been told that Lutes benefit most from crosses with Dark Greens and Olives as it enhances the buttercup yellow colour.

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Thanks renee :)

 

Yes, I have been told that to, same with clearbodies. However, when I look at a light green learbody vs a grey-green clearbody, I find the light green much more pleasing for the eye, because the yellow is a bright colour, compared to the mustardy green grey... Just what I have seen, I may be wrong.

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Nice photos and good looking budgies.

 

P.S where do you gett the budgerigar world magazine.

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Thanks renee :)

 

Yes, I have been told that to, same with clearbodies. However, when I look at a light green learbody vs a grey-green clearbody, I find the light green much more pleasing for the eye, because the yellow is a bright colour, compared to the mustardy green grey... Just what I have seen, I may be wrong.

 

 

hey hun

i think you miss read rens post

 

grey green has nothing to do with this

 

light green into lutino will eventually drive the vibrancy out of their color

its okay for few rounds pairrings so on

but as a base its not a good thing to get use to

 

for lutinos you need to be (for best color rezults ) be trying your hand at breeding some DARK GREEN BIRDS and or OLIVES

olives are the recommended top colour to retain a spectacular colour in your lutinos

and once the lutinos are 100 percent all masking dark green or olive then thats when you can be safly putting them into you visual clearbodys also of a dark factor

even cobalt as you will still be achiving dark or double dark factor birds weather in blue or green series

 

if i was giving you the heads up

id be saying to you

regardless of colour

so long as its a dark factor bird cobalt , mauve or dark green or olive

id get the best hen you have with wigth across head and good shoulders even if the directions their in the feather above the cere but not high (so long as its got right direction and shoulders and head wighth to that kk light green

this will give you some dark factor chicks

do the same with the other cock bird but obviously use a hen with the characteristics he needs but again a dark or df dark bird of blue or green series

what you need to do it be sure NEVER EVER TO USE GREY OR CINNAMON all cicks that come out cinnamon just use else where or cull

 

im trying to breed a normal line

and still trying

most birds are split cinnamon or opaline

 

the best start is try fine some one whom has a existing line of normals any color so long as the cock bird is guarantee not split op or cin your on your way

 

good luck hun its not as easy as you think

so far i have few good normal hens however nocock i can be garenteed normal only my only best bet aftr 10 normals nothing else even after being paired to a cinnamon twice the other day paired to a lacewing through a cinnamon :(

so

you can but do your best to wean everything out but in the end genes are carryed hidden in some birds for years and years then bang pop

out it comes

dont get to hung up on it it will do your head in if you go test breeding all your normal cocks be fore useing them how you want you are just wasting them in a sense

so use them and if cinnamon pops well ....all i can say is good luck

but hun

dark or dd is way to go for lutes n clearbodys

no grey factor

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I had a Kakoschke bird many years ago. It was an average looking bird but the original owner paid 700 for it, owned for a few years and couldn't get a chick out of him. I got him given to me and stuck it with an average hen to see what he would do. He filled 9 eggs and has seven chicks. Before they hatched I put him over another hen, then another. I got over 20 chicks from him that year and some of them were super placing in shields etc.

 

Good luck with him and a big bonus that he is split clearbody.

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I had a Kakoschke bird many years ago. It was an average looking bird but the original owner paid 700 for it, owned for a few years and couldn't get a chick out of him. I got him given to me and stuck it with an average hen to see what he would do. He filled 9 eggs and has seven chicks. Before they hatched I put him over another hen, then another. I got over 20 chicks from him that year and some of them were super placing in shields etc.

 

Good luck with him and a big bonus that he is split clearbody.

 

I actually don't like the fact he is split clearbody, because when I put him to a normal hen I won't know what cock birds are split, and any clearbody hens I get will be unusable on the show bench. I was fortunate enough to visit Kelwyn's place, amazing birds and best experience of my life.

 

Thankyou GB. You gave me alot to think about, which is a reason I took so long to reply to this thread! Well, I had a lovely chat to the breeder of cock bird 2. I found out that

a) he is split cinnamon, yellowface, blue and opaline

B) he can't be split blue & yellowface though, so I will await to see what his chicks are.

c) 100% grey factor siblings

d) I have been able to get a full blood brother. Grey-Green Spangle if I remember correctly

e) He is a Shane Cripps X Brian Hunt bird.

f) This gives me a few options now. I need to search for dark factor hens. I can go with the Cripps bloodline, or the Hunt line. I have possibly know someone that has a Hunt line.

 

I have decided, through GB's post and also my talk to my friend, That I will breed a normal green line. Not light green's specifically, but not just Olive's either. If I have varying factors, should I need an outcross for my lute's, I can choose some in advance to get some Olive's, or Dark Green's etc.

 

I now need to search for the normal hen's, to put to the two Cripps X Hunt birds. I am unsure if I should just source a total new line of quality normals, or if I should try and look for some Hunt and Cripps birds. If I am to find it, I am assuming getting 2 cousins maybe would be the best to go? sister's would be to close if I wanted to put the chick's back to each other...? For now I will leave the KK bird out of the equation, as I will need his length and madk later.

 

A few more piccy's.

DSCF3025-1.jpg

DSCF3026-1.jpg

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I actually don't like the fact he is split clearbody, because when I put him to a normal hen I won't know what cock birds are split, and any clearbody hens I get will be unusable on the show bench.

 

Why?

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I have had the bird to normal hens, and got 1 clearbody each time. Both of the hens have really bad suffusion through them, i would never dream of using them on the show bench. I guess i could put them back to ino's, to try and rid the suffusuon, but to be quite honest they were not fantastic birds, my other clearbody hens with much better suffusion were of better standard.

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The suffusion is because of the dark factor.

Chookbreeder said that you have to try and keep the dark factor out of the clear bodies.

 

And anyway if the bird is good and has heaps going for it why can't you bench it , they just take points away

for faults.

 

To breed dark greens, put a cobalt hen with a light green cock and you will get some dark greens, I bred heaps the other year doing that. It probably works the other too.

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The green cock birds brother, not as good as him, still a nice bird with the blood in him though. I will be pairing him back to one of his neice's. Also pairing him to a unrelated Ray Nelson bird (the spangle hen's breeder) , to create two family's of Hunt & Cripps X Ray Nelson. Put the cousin's together.

RIMG0055.jpg

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