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Everything posted by RIPbudgies

  1. Bit hard to tell from photos but here goes. 1. Cobalt Normal 2. Green Normal 3. Pied Green Series 4. Normal 5. Pied Green Series 6. Pied Green Series Now if you want some expectations from the parents. 1st pair: Opaline Light Green cock X Dominant Pied(sf) Light Green You don't say what the green is so I have assumed Light Green. I have also assumed the Dom Pied to be single factor. RESULTS- 25% Light Green Dom Pied(sf) / Opaline cocks 25% Light Green / Opaline cocks 25% Opaline Light Green Dom Pied(sf) hens 25% Opaline Light Green hens 2nd pair: YF2(sf) Greywing Sky Blue / Recessive Pied cock X Opaline Mauve hen I am assuming the YF to be a single factor. I have calculated for the Greywing but suspect the it is most likely a Dilute. I would like to see a photo of this bird. RESULTS- 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Danish Pied, Opaline cocks 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Danish Pied, Opaline cocks 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Opaline cocks 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Opaline cocks 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing, Danish Pied hens 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing, Danish Pied hens 12.5% YF2(sf) Cobalt Type II / Greywing hens 12.5% Cobalt / Greywing hens Hope this helps you.
  2. You will find the price variables will be due to a number of things. 1. Location - High rent prices in desirable suburbs. High rates also if building is owned. 2. Size of Practice - The more people employed, the more wages to be paid. But having said that sometimes this is a good thing as more people to care for animals which is then reflected in a higher standard of care. 3. Experience - Some vets just starting out may price low to attract new customers. On the other hand some are not money hungry. In my past experience seeking veterinary care for my many past persuits with dogs, cats, horses and birds I pick the one who first and foremost cares about the animals without being too expensive. Those who more involved in a certain animal's persuit will generally be more pliable to that particular animal. So if you want a good budgie vet find one who is really into birds. There are vets out there who have preferances. It's your job to find them. As far as wing clipping you can do it yourself. Poop tests also can be carried out by yourself. Get a microscope and good book on what parasites look like. Also keep your birds in a controlled situation and don't chuck a new-comer straight into an aviary. Quarantine all new birds.
  3. DF Grey is not a theory, it is fact. Photos taken in incandesant light will always alter colour due to the light spectrum emmitted. They tend to cast a browish glow. It must be remembered that Green or Grey Green baby budgies before going through their first moult will show blue or grey feathering especially in the lower half of the body. The full colour will not be realised until the moult is completed. This is due in part to the feather structure. It is immature and lacking a great deal of the internal features that make up a mature feather. In fact all immature budgie feather lack the full depth of substance and colour of a fully grown Budgerigar. Going on the photos provided it looks like the parents are Light factor SF Grey Greens. Although it is possible one may be a Medium Dark SF factor Grey Green as the resulting chick once going through the moult appears to be a Medium Dark Factored Grey Green budgie. Only breeding with the appropriate blue series bird will tell. From the results so far produced from the Grey Green pair the Baby in question is a cock and he will be split for Opaline and a 25% chance of being split for Cinnamon and a 25% chance of being DF Grey. If you wish to test this theory pair him up to a Sky Normal hen. If the bird still retains some plumage amongst the body different in colour i.e. Grey Green with Grey patches is is possible the bird is a form of half sider. Do give the bird a chance to moult a couple of times though as there have been many changes to the feather of the modern budgie.
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