My Budgie Blog

[kazzamac 0]

Hi everyone,

 

This is my first post, I'm new here and new to owning budgies. My partner and I bought 2 male budgies (I'm guessing 6months-1 year of age) a week and a half ago and I thought I might write a little blog on here about them if anyone is interested to read. I scored a really nice big cage second hand so have a nice home for them. I picked the two boys out of separate cages at the pet shop, so they didn't know each other, but they seem to have bonded well in the past few weeks. Their names are Ivan and Gusta. Gusta has lots of new feathers coming through on his head, so Ivan has been super helpful preening his head for them.

 

Anyway, back on track. I guess I'm interested in writing a blog as a bit of a record and also because I am going to attempt to hand tame these two lovely boys, and not clip their wings. I work with animals so have an interest in animal behaviour and I want to have the happiest, most well looked after budgies out there. On the weekend, after one week with us, I opened the cage for the first time (so I could clean the cage while they were vacated and not stress them out). When I wasn't in sight, they both flew madly around the lounge room, chirping away. It was funny to watch them flying, they were quite clumsy and were quite sloppy at landing, I'm guessing because they had never flown in more then a cage before. They spent a lot of time just sitting on top of their cage, having short flights then eventually returned to the cage. We have both been very careful to do nothing 'scary' with our hands, so we won't handle them at all, or move to quickly when changing food etc. They had a fly around on both Saturday and sunday (during the day). I have opened the cage for a bit when I have gotten home from work during this week but they haven't come out. I'm guessing maybe because its not daylight?

 

I have started putting my hand in the cage once a day with some millet spray on the end of my fingers. On day one of this (3 days ago) I got my hand close to them but neither went for it. Both yesterday and today Gusta has nibbled the millet. Ivan is a bit more wary and won't let me get to close, while I can have my hand right next to Gusta and he doesn't move away. So I will keep on with this - early days but I am excited by the progress.

 

If anyone has any tips I would be happy to hear them - and I will try to update. Hope that maybe someone (?) finds this interesting I've tried to attach a picture, hopefully it works. Ivan is blue, Gusta is green

[**KAZ** 0]

Hi and welcome.Please read the HOW TO POST PICTURES link in my signature and you will be able to post a picture we can see.

 

 

You have your work cut out for you. Taming one budgie is easy but two housed in one cage means it will be way harder. They tend to bond to each other and not you. They are each others FLOCK at the exclusion of you.

 

Best of luck though

[stace 0]

Hi there. If you haven't already, have a read of the FAQs on the top left. When I first started out, knowing nothing, I learnt heaps off here about food, health and taming, amongst other things.

 

Here's the section on taming.

http://forums.budgiebreeders.asn.au/faqs/index.php?action=artikel&cat=3&id=155&artlang=en

 

I also found a lot of other resources on the web. Just be aware that a lot of stuff on there is wrong. So you have to use your good judgement on what to trust, and if you're uncertain, ask on this forum where people know what they are talking about.

 

You have to be patient with taming, but it sounds like you already know that. Also, there are different ways of taming, and you have to do what you think is working. It's not always a case of, this is right, or this is wrong.

 

While they're young, also make sure you're introducing them to lots of different types of fresh veges, and some fruit. It might take them a while to eat it, but you have to get them started young, or they will forever turn their nose up at it.

 

As you're taming two at a time, it might pay to get another cheap cage, and try to tame one at a time. Or let one out, and tame one at a time in the cage at first, then when they've mastered the step-up command, one at a time outside the cage.

 

 

Here are a few things I'd kept to read when I was starting out.

 

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A lot of people have recently been asking me how I tamed my budgies so here we go. I'm not saying these methods are necesarily the best way to tame a bird, there are many good methods out there and this is only my way which I find works well.
 
The winking - I learnt this off of Bonesy (Sophie), I'm not sure if she has joined this forum but I met her on the other one and we are good friends on msn; she is a bird behaviourist and has a lot of good tips. When you first bring home your lil spudgie, spend some time sitting and winking/closing your eyes at it. It probably sounds a little strange, but this is actually the first sign to them that you are infact not trying to eat them, as a predator would stare unblinkingly at its prey in the wild. Hopefuly after a few minutes your budgie will start blinking back to you, your first little bond - he/she trusts you not to eat him/her while they have their eyes closed! Go and try it.
 
The hand taming - Firstly only tame one budgie at a time, take him into a seperate cage and room where he can't hear any others.
 
I find the longer you leave your budgie afraid of you, the more he will set into a routine of ''fear''. It is easier to tame them the day you bring them home than to leave them unsure of you for a long time. Many people are recomended to hand tame their budgies by leaving their hand in the cage near the budgie for a while each day... I don't believe this is the easiest way or even the least stressful way for the bird to becoming used to you. Each time you are taking your hand back out you are training the bird that its okay - the hand always just go's away after a while. Start each training session with a goal; don't take your hand out of the cage until you have achieved it.
 
Follow your bird slowly around the cage with your hand making no sudden movements until he gives in and stays in one place (don't be scared of hurting or scaring him, it is more scary for them to live in constant fear than to get it over with!). Once he has calmed down take your hand out and let him think about it for a few minutes. Now he has learnt that the hand doesn't go away until he calms down and sit still. The next time you put your hand in he is going to sit on your finger; don't take your hand out until he has. Gently push your finger under his belly until he has to step on, once he has, put him back on the perch and close the door. Again leave him to hink about this - ''hey, the hand doesn't hurt me... I can just sit on it''. If give up you will be teaching him the opposite; if they know you will give up they will wait for you to give up the next time. You may have to repeat this excercise quite a few times before your budgie more willingly steps up. Budgies are inteligent little birds, once you get past this initial step they will be more ready to take an interest in you; their mind is moving forwards rather than being stuck in the ''omg!'' stage. And the quicker you do this the easier it is for them to adjust, new home - new rules.
 
Once your bird is fully finger tame, i'd suggest creating a perch or area for him to land on in the room and close the curtains until he knows the area he can land; then take him slowly out of the cage and place him in that area. They do unfortunatley have some accidents the first time they are free of the cage; my Codi ended up behind my bed the first time he flew around my room but this is just how they learn.
 
 
 
 

Pet Budgerigar Behaviour & Training

by Nadine Arber

INTRODUCTION

The Budgerigar is one of Australia’s biggest success stories. It was during the 1840’s that the melodious little bird flew its way into the international spotlight and has since become the world’s most popular caged bird. For many it is a pet, for others it is an industry but for the majority, it is a new family member.

Animal behaviours are often displayed for a particular reason, whether it is boredom, fear or excitement. These behaviours can be ‘translated’ and developed into a form of communication between pet and owner and used to assist in that animal’s training. The budgerigar is no exception to this concept. Their natural instincts to mimic and strong need for companionship make them excellent pets to train.
This report outlines some of the behaviours displayed by pet budgerigars and the possible ways to interpret this body language and apply this knowledge to budgerigar training. In this article, ‘training’ does not refer to performance tricks; rather it means advantageous commands (such as "up" and "down") and a better understanding between pet and owner. (Spencer, 1993; Watmough, 1984)
WHY OBSERVE BEHAVIOUR?
Animals predominantly communicate with each other using body language and gestures. The various signals given by animals of many species often have significant meanings and their interpretation usually decides the fate of that animal. Much of the linguistic behaviours displayed by animals occur during confrontation or a meeting between two strangers. This is one of the many reasons why it is important for us, as animals and animal keepers, to correctly interpret and respond to animal behaviours.
Sickness and discomfort are also stimulants to animal behaviour. An animal will behave in a certain way and may even adopt new mannerisms if they are not happy or healthy in their present environment. So-called "stereotypic" behaviours are such an example. These are noted as behaviours that are repeated continuously and are a good indication that the animal is bored and requires more mental or physical stimulation in their environment. By observing animal behaviours, we are able to better understand their way of living. Thus, we can alter the environment in which we keep them, to improve the health and well being of that animal. (Tribe, 2001)
PET BUDGIE BEHAVIOURS AND INFULENTIAL FACTORS
The most common influences of pet budgie behaviour are the presence or absence of other budgies, the size of the cage and the level of interaction between pet and owner. The more budgies present in a cage, the more ‘typical’ budgie behaviours are noticed, such as mutual grooming, vocalisations and courting behaviours.
The more space a budgie has to move in also affects its behaviours. A smaller cage usually provides less interaction for budgies and they will get bored easily. Boredom in animals promotes ‘stereotypic’ behaviours such as pacing and gnawing, and the same applies to budgies. Keeping a budgie interested is easy and a toy will entertain for hours. Even a new sprig of parsley will be a great amusement.
Interaction between budgie and owner is also very influential to their behaviour. When a budgie is purchased, it is usually pre-decided upon if the budgie is going to be just an ornamental pet or a new addition to the family. Budgies are highly social animals and require attention in any shape or form. If a single budgie is purchased it is likely that the family expects to interact with the budgie more and behaviours such as playing and vocalisations will be observed more frequently than an ornamental pet.

(Spencer, 1993; Watmough, 1984; Tribe, 2001)

Typical Behaviours

• Grooming- Self and Mutual - important social bonding (even with owner)

• Biting and Gnawing- either other budgies or a stick; demonstrates dominance; trims beak. Females will chew wood as an instinct to create a suitable nesting site
• Chattering or Soft Vocalisations- communication between budgies and ‘competing’ with louder sounds, such as a radio or vacuum cleaner.
• Feathers Puffed- content, happy; comfortable in the environment.
• Sleeping or Resting- often on one leg and sometimes with head behind wing.

Play Behaviours

• Nibbling- at a toy or necklace; comes from the instinct to find seeds and nibble.
• Flapping without Flying- shown when excited; creates noise, movement.
• Bathing- although it is a natural instinct, many budgies will just do it for the fun of getting wet and being allowed to make a mess.

Courtship Behaviours

• Chattering or Soft Vocalisations- usually from the male to win over the female.
• "Making Eyes" and Head Bobbing- the male’s pupils dilate and crest will rise; head bobbing precedes regurgitation.
• Regurgitation- male feeds seed to female; demonstrates fathering ability.
• Feathers Puffed- male will usually puff up to increase his size, again to impress.

Stress or Fear Behaviours

• Biting- self-defense, usually fairly hard.
• Open Beak =>Head Up- attacking gesture; dominant and willing to prove it.

=>Head Lowered- defense gesture; scared but standing ground.=>Squeaking- annoyance; warning sound before a strike or bite.

• Loud and Screeching Vocalisations- warning to others, cry for help; distress.
• Wings Held off Body/Panting- stress or overheating sign; scared and/or hot.
• Feathers Flat to Body- scared and ready for flight; usually scary object.

WHAT IS MY BUDGIE TRYING TO TELL ME?

Many budgies will display typical behaviours on a day-to-day basis. However, something to remember is that the budgerigar is considered one of the best actors in the animal kingdom. Acting healthy comes naturally to the budgie, a prey animal for just about any predator in Australia. Even their name (derived from the Aboriginal "betcherrigah") means "good to eat". (Spencer, 1993)

So even if a budgerigar is acting healthy, it does not necessarily mean it is healthy. By learning to recognise the behaviours related to stress or ill health, you will notice even the smallest of changes in your pet budgie’s daily regime. If behaviours become excessive or more intense, it is possible that your budgie is not happy in his/her environment and investigations should be made with your local vet to determine the problem/s.

USING BEHAVIOUR TO AID BUDGIE TRAINING

By observing your budgie’s behaviour, you will start to understand budgie language. You will learn their likes and dislikes, what entertains and interests them and what frightens them. Many people clip their budgie’s wing when they purchase it as a pet with intentions to train it. This, however, is not the best thing to do. Wing clipping disables and disorientates budgies and if an owner wishes to interact with their pet enough to establish trust and improve their pet’s training, wing clipping is unnecessary.

Their strong desire for attention induces some budgies to mimic their owner’s actions, speak human words and even misbehave. Many birds have been known to imitate the sound of splintering wood just to see their owner rush madly into the room and start yelling, much to their delight. Despite your best efforts to discourage the behaviour by yelling, something that humans find confronting, the budgie seems to enjoy it. In fact, they do. (Spencer, 1993; Watmough, 1984; Tribe, 2001)

Repetition and mind games work well to train a budgerigar. Yelling and other forms of human discipline do not work on budgies. Outsmart your budgie by getting to know his/her personality and typical behaviour and use it to your advantage. If you know your budgie hates water for example, you can use a small water pistol to reproach a behaviour you dislike. You can also reward you budgie with a food he loves when he does something right. Training budgerigars is easy to start with, but if you take the time to watch his behaviour and learn his language, it will be even easier.

CONCLUSION

This report outlined some of the behaviours displayed by pet budgerigars and the possible ways to interpret their body language. Provided also were applications of this knowledge to budgerigar training and readers were encouraged to further develop the understanding between pet and owner. Behaviour is the language of animals. Unless we wish to remain ignorant of their needs and desires, we should start listening now.

REFERENCES

About the Author: Nadine Arber is currently studying towards a Bachelor of Applied Science in Animal Studies (Equine and Recreational Animal Management) with the aim of specialising in animal psychology and handling. She dedicates this module to Hero, the budgie who allowed her to explore human-animal communication without words.

1. Spencer, Harvey (1993); All About Budgerigars, Dino Video, Parramatta, Australia. [video recording]

1. Tribe, Andrew (2001); Lecture Material Viva Voce, ANIM 3005- Advanced Animal Ethology, The University of Queensland, Gatton Campus, Australia.

1. Watmough, W. (1984); The Cult of the Budgerigar, Nimrod Book Services, Liss, United Kingdom.

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[kazzamac 0]

Wow thanks for all that, there is some good stuff there! I will get around to posting a picture of my lovelies over the weekend.