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  1. Colour for Beginners Jim Hutton It is sometimes difficult for the beginner to identify the various colours and varieties that are in the makeup of our budgerigars. The original budgerigars that are in the wild, and the ones that were brought into this country in the early l900s, were all what is commonly known as Light Greens. Then along came the Yellows and in the early 1920s there were Skyblues bred, I think, firstly in Japan. In the 30s emerged the Opalines; in the 40s Australian and English Greys appeared on the scene. In the 60s we saw the emergence of the Spangles, and finally, the latest to rear its head is the Saddleback . At the moment there are so few of them, so it is safe to ignore them. In this article we shall concentrate on three points, the basic colours the different varieties sex linkage Firstly, let me say that Green being the original colour, you can get Greens split for Blue, but you cannot get Blue, split for Green. It is just not possible to have any bird carrying the Green, Green must be visible. Greens Greens come in three different colours, you get Light Green, Dark Green and Olive Green. In each colour variation there is a darker shade than the previous one. Purely in the colour, you will have the genes which can breed as well as Greens but also can breed Blues. Blues Blues also come in three different shades, firstly you get Skyblue, which as the name suggests is roughly the colour of the sky, you get a dark blue commonly called Cobalt, and then you have the third blue, still darker commonly called Mauve. As I mentioned earlier, Blues when paired together cannot produce a Green. However if you pair a Blue and a Green together it is possible to breed Blues and Greens. To do this, the Green must be genetically masking Blue, otherwise the Green being dominant to the Blue, you will only get Greens. Grey Greens Grey Greens also come in three colour variations, again in light, dark and a very dark Grey Green. However, with Grey Greens there is an additional factor involved, Grey Greens are a mutant, being bred from a Grey and a Green, Grey being a dominant factor, cannot be carried in split form. So you cannot, at least in theory, breed Greys. However, Grey Greens are split for Blue, so when you pair two Grey Greens together, you can breed Greens, Grey Greens, Blues and Greys. There is another factor which must be taken into account, there is such an anomaly in Grey Greens and that is the fact that you can breed double factor grey greens, when that occurs you will usually breed only grey greens, I will go into more detail later. Greys Greys are like Blues, there are three different colours, light, dark and a much darker grey. It is possible to breed Blues and Greys from a pair of Greys. However they, like the Grey Greens, can also be double factor Greys, but I hope to go into greater detail later. Lutino and Albino Lutino and Albino are similar to the Green and Blue, except with all red-eyed birds, they are devoid of all colour pigment. They are yellow instead of green, white instead of blue, and of course, they have red eyes in lieu of black eyes. The difference being in their breeding characteristics. Red-eyed birds are what we call sex-linked, that is the females are always either Lutino or Albino, they are always visual and can never be split for Lutino or Albino, whereas the cocks can be either Lutino or Albino, as well as Green split Lutino, or Blue split Albino. So for example, you can have a Green cock bird split for Lutino, and he is capable of breeding Lutino hens even if paired to a Green hen, but to pair a Lutino hen to a Green cock, you will only breed Greens, the cocks being split Lutinos. The Lutino and Albino Breeders Society Varieties It doesn't matter whether you take Greens or Blues, there are a series of different varieties. I shall try to list them with their differing characteristics. They are not in alphabetical nor any other order, just as they come to mind, starting with: Opalines Opalines have the full body colour of Normals, but they differ in wing markings. Where Normals have black and yellow markings on their wings in the Greens and black and white in the Blues, the Opalines have black, but instead of either yellow or white, they have a diluted body colour. In addition, at the back of the neck they have a clear V, only the body colour is showing, no black markings at all Cinnamons Cinnamons have half the depth of body colour of the Normals. However, their wing markings are a light cinnamon-brown in lieu of black as in the normal colours. They are in all the normal colours including Grey Green and Grey. Opaline Cinnamon Opaline Cinnamons are a mixture of Opaline and Cinnamon, having half the body-depth of the Normal. However, the wings are similar to the Opaline, they however, have cinnamon markings in lieu of black, but they have the body colour instead of yellow or white, and also they have the clear V with body colour in lieu of markings. Greywings Greywings appear in all the normal colours, Green, Blue, Grey Green and Grey. They have a suffused body colouring and the wing markings are a pastel shade of grey on either a yellow or white background, depending whether they are yellow or white. The Rare Variety and Colour Budgerigar Society Clearwings Yellow wings are the Green series and White wings are the Blue series. They have either a bright green or blue body colouring. The wings should be either Yellow or White, depending on whether they are Green or Blue. Unfortunately, they no longer have clear wings, but tend to have suffused markings on the wings, some lightly-suffused and some so heavily-suffused that they resemble Greywings. The best way to identify them is to examine the cheek patches, Clearwings always have bright violet patches, greywings have pale blue cheek patches The Clearwing Budgerigar Breeders Association Dilutes Yellows are the Green version, Whites are the Blues. You can get Grey Yellows and Grey Whites. They should not be mixed up with Lutinos and Albinos who have red-eyes with a white iris. Yellows and Whites have black eyes with the white iris, the body colour of the Yellows range from a washed-out yellow to an apple green, the Whites range from a lightly-suffused blue to a darker blue, the wings are lightly-suffused. Recessive Pieds Recessive Pieds come in all the normal colourings, including Cinnamon, Opaline etc. The colouring is irregular patches of yellow and bright grass green. On the wings, it is mainly yellow with black undulations in a random pattern. Eyes should be solid black without an iris. In the Blue series substitute white for yellow and blue for green. They are also non sex-linked, but I shall cover that later. Dark-eyed Clears Dark-eyed Clears, as the name suggests, are yellow in place of green and white in place of blue. They have black eyes with no iris and they are non sex-linked, similar to Recessive Pieds. Fallows Fallows are a variety and not a colour. They cover the whole range of colours. The way to describe them is that they are basically, a lighter than normal body colour, and in place of black markings on the wings, they have light brown markings. There are two varieties, namely, the English Fallow, which has plum-coloured eyes without an iris, they are non sex-linked. The other is the German Fallow which also have the plum eyes, but they have an iris and they are sex-linked. The Rare Variety and Colour Budgerigar Society Dominant Pieds Dominant Pieds are also a variety, coming in all the colours previously mentioned. They are however, different from the varieties previously mentioned. They are neither sex-linked nor non sex-linked. They are what is known as a Dominant variety. What that means is, that when paired to a non-Pied, they will produce approximately 50% Dominant Pieds and 50% Normals. None of the young can be split for Dominant Pied. The markings should be in the green coloration, and the body should be solid green, with irregular patches of yellow, they should have a patch of yellow at the back of the head but this is now optional. The wings should have patches of yellow, with the flights being grizzled, the feet are a mottled pink and the eyes are black with a white iris. In the Blue series substitute white for yellow. Spangles Spangles are another Dominant variety. They appear in all colours and varieties, and they have the same breeding pattern as the Dominant Pied ie., they produce 50% Spangles when paired to a non-Spangle partner and again they cannot be split for Spangle. In the Green series they have a bright green body colour, however, the wing markings differ from Normals in that the black and yellow wing markings of the Normals are reversed in the Spangle, they are yellow and black instead. The other peculiar feature of the Spangle is the fact that when two Spangles are paired together you get some of the young devoid of the normal Spangle markings. In the case of the Greens they are yellow all over, including the wings, whereas Blue series are all white. The correct definition for such a bird is a Double Factor Spangle. The Spangled Budgerigar Breeders Associaton Yellow-faces Yellow-faces are another Dominant variety. Obviously, they only appear in the Blue series. They can be also in the Green series but it is extremely difficult to identify them. In the Blue series they should have a yellow face in lieu of the white, the yellow should go over the head to the back of the neck, it is a major fault for the yellow to extend into the body shade. Crested Again, the Crest is a variety, and can be seen in all colours and varieties, including Spangles. They should have all the features of normal colours, but they should have a crest or tuft on the top of their heads. They are a non sex-linked variety. Now, we will try to group together the various varieties, at the same time, endeavouring to give the various sex patterns of the varieties, including the various anomalies that can turn up. It is a known fact that the Green is normally dominant to most other colours. The anomaly can be when paired to a Grey Green, then you will get a percentage of Greens and Grey Greens. It is not possible when you pair two Blues together, to produce Greens. A bird can never be split for Green. Now, when you look to other matings, that is when interesting results can happen. This is where sex-linkage plays an important part. When two Normal birds are paired together, (what we mean by Normal is that they are not split for any colour or variety) then all you should get from the mating is all Normal birds. For example, take a pair of Greens and you will only get Green chicks. However, if either one of the Greens, or both of them, were to be split for Blue, then you will get Greens and Blues. The Green chicks, instead of being Normal Greens would be Green split Blue. Let us take it a stage further and try to identify some of the other varieties and their effect on the breeding pattern. Normals Today, there are very few birds that you could say are pure Normals. What we mean is, there are not many birds that are not carrying something else in their genes. It is possible for a bird to be carrying, in a hidden form, colour and variety. For example, cock birds can carry numerous genes for a series of varieties, and will require test mating to establish them. Sex-linked Sex-linked varieties are numerous, and what we mean by sex-linkage is the simple fact that, when a variety is sex-linked, only the cock birds can carry the genes in a split or hidden form. For example, the following table should show it clearly. The following list are the varieties that are sex-linked.They all have the similar breeding characteristics, in as much that only the cocks can carry the variety in a split or hidden form. The hens cannot carry the variety in a hidden form, they must be and only can be visual. In the following list I will show not only the breeding characteristics of Opalines, but all other sex-linked varieties as follows: Opalines Opaline Cinnamons Opaline Greywings Cinnamons Lutino Albino Lacewings German Fallows The Opaline Non Sex-Linked Varieties The following list is the varieties that are non sex-linked: Greywings Clearwings Yellows Whites Recessive Pieds Dark-eyed Clears English Fallows Crests I have covered most of the normal coloured birds and varieties, obviously there are a few I have left out, such as Clearbodies and Saddlebacks, being fairly new varieties there is plenty of time to elaborate on them at a later date. As with the expectation tables, I have deliberately left out the percentages you are expected to get. Like all theories, they are worked out of an expected 100 birds, therefore, what you can expect to get in one nest bears no resemblance to what you get if you bred 100 from that particular pair. I only hope the position is a little clearer for our Beginners and I have not clouded the rather complex situation. Colour for Beginners by Jim Hutton
  2. Cobalts Violet is the only visual violet, but the violet gene effect so many other colours in different ways. To understand the violet gene, we must first understand the consept of Sky blue , Cobalt and Mauve. These colours are effected by the dark factor (sounds like star wars ). Each bird carried to lighting factors, these come as a Light Factor (L) and a Dark Factor (D). If a bird has two light factors LL in the blue series it is Sky Blue. In the green series it is Light Green. If a bird hsa a light factor and a dark factor LD it is a Cobalt in the blue series and a Dark Green in the green series. If a bird carries two dark factors DD it is a Mauve in the blue series and an Olive in the green series. Lets look at the Violet Gene (v) it is a floating gene that reacts to the Lighting factors. It can be carried on the Light factor or Dark factor. Some examples. a Blue series bird that is carring 1 light factor and one dark factor and the violet gene could be writen this way Lv D or L Dv because the violet gene can be carried on the Light fator or dark factor. This bird in the blue series would be a visual violet (Cobalt Violet). It it was a green series bird it would be a Violet Dark Green. This bird would look like an Olive. Let keep to the blue series birds only. L Lv or Lv L would be a Violet Skyblue L Dv or Lv D would be a Visual Violet (Violet Cobalt) D DV or Dv D would be a Violet Mauve. To many this would be as far as they would care to go. Breeding Show birds is a bit different . The breeder would like to know what factor the Violet gene is attached to to help him breed the bird he wants. How dod you find this out. Well if you have a few thousand of dollars hanging around you can have extensive DNA testing done. Or you can test breed. Example 1. Cross a Cobalt LD with a Visual Violet Lv D. (Lets use one way of crossing in genetics.1sts, lasts, 1st to last, last to 1st. ) L Lv - Violet Sky D D - Mauve L D - Cobalt Lv D - Visual Violet. Note no Skyblues Example 2. Cross a Cobalt LD with a Visual Violet L Dv. L L - Skyblue D Dv - Violet Mauve L D - Cobalt L Dv - Visual Violet Note no Mauves. As you can see there is different outcomes from pairing what would look like the same birds. You can carry this on for all types of pairing. Example 3 Cross a Violet Mauve D Dv with a Skyblue L L D L - Cobalt Dv L - Visual Violet D L - Cobalt Dv L - Visual Violet 50% Visual Violet 50 % Cobalt. Remeber that there is the double factor visual violet Lv Dv. For those that get it, what is the out come of a Light green bird to a visual violet? More Information Producing Visual Violets by Cyril Rogers Violet Factor Blue Series
  3. When many decide to get into the show budgerigar side they are usually looking at the open class birds on the bench, at shows, on web sites or in books. The breeders of these birds have been breeding for many years or decades. Some like Gerald Binks have put their whole life into it. The new breeders/novices start with dreams of breeding the top show birds in the first or at least the second season. This is not, in the majority of novices, going to happen. The only way to get close to this is to have an endless supply of money and to start with buying the top birds. So what is the new show breeder to do? With my short experience in this area, I think I am on to the right direction. Make a plan. As many in different occupations say we don't plan to fail, just fail to plan. Mine is a five year plan. I am currently in my second year of my plan and have feed back that I am on the right track. My Surgested Plan. 1st Year. Start by joining a club and listen to all the members. See who is winning and ask if you can visit their aviary. While there, ask questions. How have they set up their breeding rooms? What are they feeding their birds in the flights? What do they look for in a bird to see if they are coming into breeding condition? How do they set up their birds? Some put the hen in first for a few days before introducing the cock. What do they feed the breeding pair? How do they set up the nest box and what type and size is it. What do they feed the pair when the chicks hatch? .....and so forth. Don't stop at the first Aviary. Visit as many as you can. Everyone has a different way to do things. Be advised by them and act on it. Go to shows and try to get a job stewarding. Stewarding is bringing the birds from the holding area to the "Bench" for the judge. If you are lucking the judge will tell you what he is looking at and why he picked one bird over another. You will learn to tell the difference between Double factor spangles, Lutinos and Dark eyed clears. You will learn to recognise the difference between grey wings and cinnamons. You will also see why some birds are penalised. After a few shows and visits to aviaries and attending club meetings, 6 months or so has pasted, you can start to think about either the birds you have and/or the birds you are going to buy. You start to think about the aviary you have and/or going to build. Some members might give you birds to start you off and even help with your first pairing. 2nd Year Now comes the crunch. 12 months has past since you though that it might be good to breed and show birds. You are now alone in your aviary with your birds breeding with chicks. With the experience you have had and back up of the members in your club you should have the confidence to take the chicks from the egg to the perch, to the nursery and in to the stock cage. You must remember that this takes time. The chicks will be in the nursery from the time they are capable of feeding themselves until 60 days old. It is at this stage that the new breeder evaluated the birds. This is when the first heart aches start. He looks at his new chicks and compares them to the birds in the top breeder's aviaries or the show bench or the book he is reading by the top breeders. Guest what. They are a bit small. They don't seem to have that puffy head, the spots are small, the head is pointy the bird won't stand on the perch straight enough... etc. The breeder now is despondent. What happened..? Well nothing went wrong. You have just set the foundation to what could be a great stud. You have to wait. This is a chick still a nest feather, an ugly duck. What you first called a pink blob is now feathered and not the Miss or Mister World of the budgie world. Unfortunately this is the time when most new breeders sell their chicks. Thinking that they won't amount to much and that it was a waste of time breeding them. Don't do it! The next thing to do is to make sure you look after these birds. Remember what the top breeders do and move them to the stock cages and leave them until they are 90 days old. They should now b undressing there baby clothes and moulting into their kids outfits. After their moult it is time to move them into their own flight and leave them to mature. Come back in 6 months time to see how they have matured and you should now see the effects of time and your good management. You might be surprised. At 12 months old they still have not reached their peak, it won't be until they are 18 months that you will see the best in them. 3rd Year okay next stage. If you have a large Aviary and can have many birds, great but for many, culling starts at 12 months. By now you should have been to many shows and seen the quality of what is being shown. You should have spent 3/4 of the time looking at the novice section to see what they have brought on to the bench. Hopefully you will be arrogant enough to think to yourself. "I have a better one at home; I could have beaten that one." This is when your "Eye for detail" starts to develop. You should know what birds are best to keep and what should be culled. (Culled meaning to remove by selling or given away). Where do you start? Those 3 pair that you might have started with had 4 chicks each in two clutches each. You now have 24 chicks. This is where the help from good Club members will be essential. I would try to end up with 1: 2 cocks to hens. Now you might say that I only had two cocks in all that breeding, well unless they are bad I might keep them. If they are bad I would think about out crossing a good cock or two. Now you should start thinking about pairing for the next season. Look at relationships and don't forget the original birds you started with. It should be from the next pairings that you should start to see an improvement. So long as you have paired them correctly. This is where the help from good Club members will be essential. Now you can start to think about your Show team. You might have a few chicks from the previous season that has improved enough to be tried on the bench. You might have some Nest feathers, (Chicks that haven't gone through their first moult) that might be good enough for the bench. Put them up. Showing birds in Australia is cheap. It costs 50 cents per bird. If the birds are not good enough to win the judge is usually happy to discuss the down falls. This is a learning stage. 4th year you might have had a few places or even a few wins. You have had your ups and downs. You have had deaths and successes. You know that you have a long way to go but your birds are improving and you involvement with the club has been paying off through hard work and assistance given. You gone to many shows and can see what is needed in your birds to advance. You now have a good team and you start to get constant wins and the points gathered start to elivate you to intermediate status. 5th Year This is the year you need to work hard and hopefully be elevated to Intermediate Class and then you can start to think about the top. By the end of the year, you start to compare your birds to the photos that brought you into this fancy those 5 years ago and think it I am now getting close…….. I am in my sixth year and was elivated to Intermediate Breeder last year. I have had a year off and now ready to move forward. Many of the birds have progressed nicely butit has been hard work with many failures along the way.
  4. Daz

    Interview With Darryl Wells

    Interesting looking back. For those that don't know, iv'e sold all the birds and changed the Aviary into a storage shed. Breeding the birds and showing them was great. But they do need attention that at the moment in my life I can't give them. Maybe in the future I'll return. Thanks all for the support and I hope you do well with your birds.
  5. Daz

    New Avairy

    Well as you know I am planing an Upgrade from the modest aviary I now have. up to something a bit more roomier. I started with this one back in April 2005. Just the extension bolted onto the side of a garden shed. 1 year later I altered the shed to this. I used to breeding the pergola but know have a breeding room and a flight twice as big. The shed is approx 2.0m x 2.2m with an extension 2 x .9 x 1. Now the concreat slab is being extend to an area of 3.2 x 5 m. My plan was to have that done this week and then leave it. Sell the old Avairy on ebay before Christmas, Move all the birds in to the garage and duing my 3 week holiday at the beginning of January rebuild the new Avairy, refit it and move the birds back in....... Well best laid plans of Men and Budgies. The boss cancelled my holidays in January and I am looking at bring them forward to???? okay tomorrow the site will be cleared and the new Slab is to be laid on Wednesday. Photos to come.
  6. Daz

    New Avairy

    This is the End of the Topic and the Aviary. All the birds are gone. The Aviary will be striped back to a plan shed and converted into a Work/Storage Shed for my camping gear. It's been 8 years from the time I started till now. Been good times (Mostly) Thanks Everyone that has Enjoyed My postings. In the words of M>A>S>H> Goodbye, Farewell and Amen
  7. Daz

    Full Sell Out

    I am selling all my birds and all my equipment. Prices are low to sell. Any bird is $25. All breeding cabinets are $20 and Cubical. IE a 4 Breeding cubical cabinet is only $80. Nest boxes for $5 a 6 Breeding cubical cabinet is only $120 Pick up only. Brisbane I'll be selling them this weekend. Email me for details daz2264@bigpond.com. any bid left after Sunday will go to a buyer for the Flee Market. Cabinets will be sold on Ebay. A great Opportunity for Beginners to help start their hobby.
  8. Daz

    Full Sell Out

    Sherlock The Wire fronts are customed made by a Breeder at Gatton. I have long lost contact with him. Sorry. Thanks to all those that have bought my birds in the past. I hope that they have assisted you in your breeding programs. It is an eerie feeling in my back yard. I had nearly 80 birds at the end and they are now gone. It is very quiet. Thank you all again. If you have questions you can still email me and i'll help where I can.
  9. Daz

    Full Sell Out

    got it..
  10. Daz

    Full Sell Out

    HI L_J the Aviary is being turned into a Storage shed for my camping gear. I have a Victory Kingpin Motorcycle that has a trailer that i used to go camping. The trailer and all my gear will be put in the Shed. https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/521953_550440201645264_180227931_n.jpg The Bike and trailer to the far Left is mine. https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/564635_550440281645256_1267442793_n.jpg This is my camping set up.
  11. Daz

    Full Sell Out

    Hi Budgie_Mad I started breeding Budgies back in the 70's But seriously from 2005 when I joined this Forum. Many of my Tips are in the posts here on the forums. I am giving them up for now but will probably get back into them later in life. They are for the time being. Thank you Robyn
  12. Is line breeding inbreed? Yes! What is line breeding and what does it mean??? WOW a contriversal topic. Is it? I think so. ...and who would do it? Well 99.9% of all breeders for show line breed. All of the budgerigars outside of Australia have been line bred. How can I say this. Well 100 years ago Australia stopped exporting Budgerigars to the world. To supply budgerigars for sale, those with the stocks started to inbreed for the demand from the public. During the second world war brittain was in short supply of food for the public let alone the seed for the birds. Many other europien countries were the same. Many birds were killed so that the few could survive. After the war the stocks had to be brought back. England couldn't get birds from Australia and were forced to inbreed but decide to have a very good look into how to go about it. By selectively pairing the birds they found a way to strength and improve on the structure of the bird. right down to the health. Mean while in other parts of the world they were also looking down the same line. Germany was also inbreeding for improvement. So how is it done. (Generally) Cock X Hen A .................... Hen B 1st year mating Chicks .................... Chicks Cock .... Hen ...................Cock .... Hen Cock .... Hen ...................Cock .... Hen Cock .... Hen ...................Cock .... Hen Cock .... Hen ...................Cock .... Hen 2nd Year Cocks from pairing of Cock x and Hen A are mated to Hens of pairing Cock X to Hen B Hens from pairing of Cock x and Hen A are mated to Cocks of pairing Cock X to Hen B (Half Brother to Half Sister) 3rd Year Hens from the result are breed back to Cock X Grandfather to Grand Daughter. This is assuming that Cock X has really great features to start with. Chicks from the 1st year mating will have half his genes and half from the hen. Chicks from the 2nd year mating will only have a quarter of his genes. Chicks from the 3rd year will have 75% his genes. This mating was ment to strength the strain...his strain....his line. Other Combinations are Uncle to Neice, Aunt to Nephew, Cousin to Cousin. The idea is to enhanse the features of the bird. Features also being health and fertility. besides the looks. There are not many that breed brother to sister but it does occur. This topic is in no way meant to promote line breeding but to explain how and why.
  13. Daz

    Ring Colours

    Australian Ring Colours. Breeders rings in Australia have a 6 year cycle. 2005 - Purple (7 years old now) 2006 - Gold 2007 - Green 2008 - Black 2009 - Red 2010 - Blue 2011 - Purple 2012 - Gold 2013 - Green 2014 - Black 2015 - Red 2016 - Blue 2017 - Purple 2018 - Gold The ring issue date is the 1st September the year before the ring date. E.G. The gold 2012 rings will be issued on the 1st September 2011.
  15. Daz

    New Avairy

    This is one of my DEC
  16. Daz

    New Member From Victoria

  17. Daz

    Boy 'oh' Budgie

    some Budgie variety have Orange Beaks some have Flesh coloured beaks. Some Males have blue cere's some have pink cere's Same as the legs.
  18. Daz

    First Trip To Avian Vet

    If your going to the Vet, don't put any water or food in the cage. Put a sheet of clean paper on the bottom of the cage. The vet might want to test the droppings. You can carry the water and food to give on the way home. Remember that Budgies can go days with out water.
  19. Daz

    Such Thing As Bond For Life?

    Budgies can bond but you can break the bonds by separating them for 7 days. Some are more difficult if they can hear the other bird. If i pair two birds in a breed cage (no nest box) and they don't start to feed each other in two weeks I break them up and try different partners.
  20. Daz

    New Avairy

    Going to pair the dark eyes Nerwen. I have a love of them. I accidently paired a DF Spangle to a recessive so all the offspring were Spangle/rec. Going to pair these to the dark eyes to see if I can improve the breed.
  21. Daz

    New Avairy

    Thanks Robyn. Yes is see that it's been quiet on here.
  22. Daz

    Keeping Lettuce Fresh

    Please remember that Budgies if given a good choice of seed, fruit and veg will eat what they want/need. I've seen Birds in the breeding cage throw out one type of seed while laying but eat it during feeding the chicks. Some breeders do give the birds each type in separate dishes for this reason. It stops waste.
  23. lol there is a section in the back of the book that is very technical but most of the book isn't bad. I got my copy from a pet store.
  24. Daz

    New Avairy

    It's been over a year since I've visited this post. I haven't bred an birds this year. Been too Busy. But now have the urge to get it cleaned up and have bred a few over Christmas.
  25. Daz

    My New/old Aviary

    very nice